Anyone got any ideas of a botch fix to this lol..... I never knew removing a battery such a ball ache....got it out and the negative bracket was stuck, so I tried a socket on the big bolt and it snapped it

My battery been drained to 8volts.  I noticed when the car been locked the display stays on with mileage etc orange lit up

 

 

.....

I'm not sure of a bodge....don't think electrical tape will work here!  

Battery cables are cheap and easy to replace though, should be plenty at the scrap yard if you don't want to go brand new.

I'm with Tom, no 'bodge' recommended otherwise you'll be plagued in the future with ';battery' issues. You could try your local KwikFit etc. I know from looking at this, that the one I've used (though have done for years and they know me well) would probably not even charge me for changing that cable out especially as the -ve is simply bolted into the car...

Thanks guys.........new part on eBay comes.with all the wires and is £55 .  Would just a new battery clamp work ??  What does -ve mean , thanks.  This car just bought it seemed great faultless coming back and then all electrical issues displaying and now.battery thing snapped and radio code reset 

 "What does -ve mean "  -ve means negative   .   +ve means positive.   The positive terminal on battery usually has a +  symbol moulded into the plastic.  the positive and negative are difference size diameter of the circular post. 

you don't need new cables, you just need a new connector.

look at this style here (I am not saying buy this one, just showing you the pic):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Battery-Terminal-Connectors-Round-Post-Clamp-Car-Van-Positive-Negative/372879138806?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item56d1541ff6:g:jlUAAOSwfsRd-NKZ&enc=AQAEAAACQBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qVJ1PPTmhUOCGl9z%2FcIK8kweGYACG4USKipD9thL9RGxccG%2B8BbwSVMljtss5SS2Av%2FAQHNcXavEEPCWvStcWYg73ZenbOYfdD6QqDASNub6WvTY7l2JTUYU%2BEBzwXmMuPyci1Al7ztTVK3xt6OszynGhhDK5XeRV8a8y0xLCSgifL%2FWDIHvE2fi0hMg0WnE2D0hhfyiIraqMPMG6TBm0e0ZbrOQrOsDTBs8wLp181lm%2B3JGx4Z%2FRU1UqsEvVvv82IFX5c%2Fe83pX5Ie08sEsU%2BIGYHH%2FzefnUuAacZYwz1W9KdngGkz%2F%2BQjsyD0JEPHlKB1iPBM4F8Hwr9rDc0DhOTRVrqRBkAqf7%2FuR9iWC46Ugao1BqoEO1ILD6%2Fnc641z6w8N7kED5NItC12orNLm5Hs8H7QWxm8AWb2ycATm8Gw485%2FM6BpYISI7IQcwMxIdSpSwXpJMgwGest%2BhKj5y57ExgbF33hkkNgxczLabJslRwCk2F%2FPG6UdnefDFUyX80rOERNkYVj%2FGZxj4YQ4Wn82BiES1cqO9Qv564r6DUAoFbmjdWmeZnGK1inxDMUDLD5AWLv%2FGeDQ0ZEzBQucKNQXxNLd4jVaQ7FsPaR5ZYV%2FdZ%2BlLVzRxLAg2jbAUnIIou26XqK16vckrd%2BFZBBeFFNUK0NM1Yp3pczUbNfZacAEZ3tiynP6CnqqI4gtrt54DQAtqaJSBtY10PDC23%2BTk6VQ6LARH%2FGOjBgM72s4J6u3JQ%3D%3D&checksum=3728791388060532c6acc6a04a899e78ff5ee50261c1

these should be easily obtainable in many shops. cut the broken bit off cables. trim some insulation off, put the cables into the tube part of the new connector and do the screws up.

it's not quite as good as the originals and may need tightening over time (shove some vaseline in there also to help reduce corrosion) but it depends how quick and how cheap you want to do it.

 

19 minutes ago, isetta said:

you don't need new cables, you just need a new connector.

look at this style here (I am not saying buy this one, just showing you the pic):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Battery-Terminal-Connectors-Round-Post-Clamp-Car-Van-Positive-Negative/372879138806?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item56d1541ff6:g:jlUAAOSwfsRd-NKZ&enc=AQAEAAACQBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qVJ1PPTmhUOCGl9z%2FcIK8kweGYACG4USKipD9thL9RGxccG%2B8BbwSVMljtss5SS2Av%2FAQHNcXavEEPCWvStcWYg73ZenbOYfdD6QqDASNub6WvTY7l2JTUYU%2BEBzwXmMuPyci1Al7ztTVK3xt6OszynGhhDK5XeRV8a8y0xLCSgifL%2FWDIHvE2fi0hMg0WnE2D0hhfyiIraqMPMG6TBm0e0ZbrOQrOsDTBs8wLp181lm%2B3JGx4Z%2FRU1UqsEvVvv82IFX5c%2Fe83pX5Ie08sEsU%2BIGYHH%2FzefnUuAacZYwz1W9KdngGkz%2F%2BQjsyD0JEPHlKB1iPBM4F8Hwr9rDc0DhOTRVrqRBkAqf7%2FuR9iWC46Ugao1BqoEO1ILD6%2Fnc641z6w8N7kED5NItC12orNLm5Hs8H7QWxm8AWb2ycATm8Gw485%2FM6BpYISI7IQcwMxIdSpSwXpJMgwGest%2BhKj5y57ExgbF33hkkNgxczLabJslRwCk2F%2FPG6UdnefDFUyX80rOERNkYVj%2FGZxj4YQ4Wn82BiES1cqO9Qv564r6DUAoFbmjdWmeZnGK1inxDMUDLD5AWLv%2FGeDQ0ZEzBQucKNQXxNLd4jVaQ7FsPaR5ZYV%2FdZ%2BlLVzRxLAg2jbAUnIIou26XqK16vckrd%2BFZBBeFFNUK0NM1Yp3pczUbNfZacAEZ3tiynP6CnqqI4gtrt54DQAtqaJSBtY10PDC23%2BTk6VQ6LARH%2FGOjBgM72s4J6u3JQ%3D%3D&checksum=3728791388060532c6acc6a04a899e78ff5ee50261c1

these should be easily obtainable in many shops. cut the broken bit off cables. trim some insulation off, put the cables into the tube part of the new connector and do the screws up.

it's not quite as good as the originals and may need tightening over time (shove some vaseline in there also to help reduce corrosion) but it depends how quick and how cheap you want to do it.

 

I might be mistaken but I thought this was a bracket with the BMS on it (as below) so a simple clamp won't work?

wot is the box thats fixed to this connector. . i know i have it and it had to be reset when a new battery was fitted but what actually is it.    our local halfords informed chappy didnt know either.  thought it was a tracker?? 

38 minutes ago, michaelburrows said:

wot is the box thats fixed to this connector. . i know i have it and it had to be reset when a new battery was fitted but what actually is it.    our local halfords informed chappy didnt know either.  thought it was a tracker?? 

The one above is part of the BMS (battery monitoring system).  It measures battery charge basically.  It needs resetting when the new battery is fitted so the ECU knows the 'new' maximum charge, so it can work out the minimum allowed charge for the stop start (if fitted) and variable alternator charging etc.   

if anyone knows tomsfocus knows.   haha.   thankyou.

On 1/28/2020 at 9:59 AM, TomsFocus said:

The one above is part of the BMS (battery monitoring system).  It measures battery charge basically.

I'd be interested to know how it does that. The only thing that comes to mind is that it allows the ECU to perform a 'four-terminal' voltage measurement on the battery whilst the engine is cranking, but since it only apparently connects to the positive post I don't see how it could do it.

The BMS monitoring system records the state of charge of the battery. The car knows the type of battery fitted and therefore knows the Amp Hour capacity of the battery. The BMS measures current flowing out of the battery when starting the car or when the engine is not running and also measures current into the battery when the alternator is charging the battery.

The BMS monitor also guesses the temperature of the battery.

All of this information is used to try to maintain the state of charge of the battery at about 80%. The idea is to reduce the load of the alternator on the engine when possible to save fuel. The charging voltage is varied with temperature because a cold battery accepts charge at a higher voltage than a hot battery.

The system will know when the battery capacity is getting low and gradually shuts down unnecessary items like the audio system, automatic stop/start and heated screens to shed battery load when certain state of charge levels are reached.

All nice and complicated to save a few drops of fuel.

 

22 hours ago, pcaouolte said:

The BMS measures current flowing out of the battery when starting the car or when the engine is not running and also measures current into the battery when the alternator is charging the battery

Ah, so does that mean the connector incorporates a current shunt?

Most BMS sensors seem to have a current shunt but I have no knowledge of the internal workings of the ford version.

I managed a reasonable bodge that's done the trick 🤣 thanks guys I never had that box thing btw on my model 

2 hours ago, Darrenh84 said:

I managed a reasonable bodge that's done the trick 🤣 thanks guys I never had that box thing btw on my model 

mmm... we need a photo, otherwise it didn't happen! LOL

a photo might help someone else who has the same problem and is in a situation where they really need to fix it right now and live 100 miles from a parts supplier or they are all closed on a sunday