Hi, so I'm getting an egr valve error code p0406, egr circuit high. 

Loss of power, rough idling, eml on. 

The egr is integrated into the inlet manifold so it can't be removed on its on to be cleaned so I'd have to take the whole manifold off. 

Just had a quick question before I go through the trouble of taking it off, I took a picture of the build up of ***** and was wondering in ye're opinion would it cause the egr fault? 

 Thanks 👍👍👍

Took it out, took a few hours. 

Had too tale turbo and exhaust manifold off, pain in the ***** 😩😩

It was pretty dirty 😂

Yep that would certainly cause a fault haha hope this fixed it.

On 2/1/2020 at 8:11 PM, Luke4efc said:

Yep that would certainly cause a fault haha hope this fixed it.

No, still showing an egr fault. 

😭😭😭😭😭

we need tdci peter on this one.  he knows all about this kind of stuff on the 1.8tdci engine. perhaps he hasn't spotted it as it does not have 1.8tdci in the title

If the EGR gets REALLY clogged up i.e. enough to stop the EGR valve/flap from being able to actuate it can cause the mechanism to fail.  Apparently this part IS replaceable, I'm sure I previously saw a thread on here where someone replaced the actuator mechanism, rather than have to replace the whole EGR/inlet manifold.

 

Once it's fixed, I'd also suggest blanking the EGR to help prevent future failures.  The 1.8 TDCi is usually happy to take an EGR blanking plate and doesn't throw an EML, mines been blanked for about 5 years and I've not had it trigger the EML once due to the EGR.

 

*Edit - the thread I was thinking of is here and contains a PDF from @Tdci-Peter that details the repair process for the internal EGR mechanism*

On 2/3/2020 at 11:00 AM, Focus7788 said:

No, still showing an egr fault. 

I found the EGR actuator unit on my car to have been very unreliable. It was the electrical connections inside it, and was giving similar error codes. I made several repair attempts, but usually it came back in a few months, and I had to use a blanking plate to prevent the annoying power fluctuations that were due to it not working properly.

In 2012, when the trouble started, there was no replacement actuator available, and I did not get a 2nd hand manifold as I suspected this reliability problem might be there also. But an enterprising Chinese manufacturer spotted the need, and made an actuator available. In 2018 the price dropped to under £50, so I got one. It is practically identical to the Ford one, fitted ok and has worked fine since. There is one difference, it uses an electronic position sensor, not a mechanical pot like my old one. Probably a contactless hall effect sensor. This should be much more reliable than the old pot method with its moving wipers. The temperature under the bonnet, and above the turbo & exhaust is a worry for any electronic stuff, but mine has stood up to it so far. It was the combination of temperature and vibration, plus many operation cycles, that probably did in the old one. It is a harsh location.

I am currently running with no blanking plate, the ECU seems to prefer it like that, and MPG may be slightly better, though the carbon build up is always a worry.

The same supplier is still offering them, I assume they are the same as the one I got, though there is never any 100% guarantee!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173418521106

The link that Damien gave is a cut down version of a longer report with more photos on removing & testing the actuator: Unfortunately the title has ERG in it, not EGR! So it was not a good place to put the report really! I kept meaning to copy it out and put it somewhere better. Trouble is, meaning to do things and actually getting around to doing them are two very different things, I find, sadly.