Well, wasn't able to take the car for a long spin because of the nasty weather, but I did manage to charge the battery.

I've actually got a pretty good battery charger and it stated it was healthy. I've also got one of those voltage displays that you stick in the cigarette lighter.

When driving it to the station it was fluctuating around 14.2v which I think is normal.

This morning, before I turned anything on, I put the voltage display in and it read 11.9v.

Is that acceptable? Is it because it's drawing a little power whilst it's just sitting there such as the alarm?

Shall I use a multi-meter directly on the battery instead to get a more accurate reading?

Thank you.

Did you charge it for long enough. 11.9 sounds like a dead cell tho'... 🤔

I too bought one of those voltage displays that you stick in the cigarette lighter.

On my 56 plate 1.6 petrol with an ageing battery it will start up with an ignition on reading of 11.1V much to my surprise.

It's done this for the past 6 months or so and will start up successfully even after standing for several weeks.

If the temperature drops well below zero I confidently expect a failure to start up!

Incidentally, as you have found, the engine is running at 14.2V so the alternator is functioning OK.

scaniaPBman.

I'd start of by pulling off a plug cap and looking inside.... after this weather, all the plugs are probably in a bath of water.  Between the plastic cam cover is a big trough where the pugs sit and it can hold a few pints of water.  It goes passed the drivers windscreen washer and fills it up un seen to the owner

if that's the case, you may as well swap out the plugs the HT leads and do a coil pack.  that'll be around 75 quid all in (if you fit yourself)  the rain that hides there will cause issues with everything shorting and nothing lasts these days .  Most good motor factors will stock it all, as its dead common you need to do it.  Take the chassis number in with you there's a few different coil packs.

Next point... (subject to an expert potentially correcting me) there was a recent post about a throttle body reset procedure... With the battery out the way you short the two leads (so it discharges a capacitor) and on restart it will go through reset procedure where you leave it to tick over for 15 mins or so (find the post).  If the battery was truly flat the car will have lost its settings anyway and thus need this.  But I'd do it when I knew the ignition was in a good place.  (and for the cost, with a new air filter and the little bit of foam no one ever changed since it was made on the engine breather.  it will be a soggy oily lump in the bottom of the air cleaner that's blocking the engine breather from working - when you buy a ford air filter they give you the bit of foam you need no one else sells)

 

Just to let you know.

I did finally manage to take it for a bit of a drive although I don't know if it was long enough. I drove between 60-70 mph for just a minute or two. The journey was to a shopping centre so it was for about 20 minutes each way.

For a few seconds the engine light started to flash instead of solid when I was around that speed and I noticed I have to put my foot down more to reach the speed.

I'm not sure if I will damage it the longer I leave it like this but if I can't find the time to try the advice given above then I'll have to bite the pillow and take it to a garage.

I would've put money on it that it was just moisture or damp since it was only after not using the car for a month that the issue started.

Hope that helps but if you can think of anything else that I can try (if i get the time this weekend!) other than already advised then I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks again.

 

Did you charge the  battery as advised? 

Did you clear the codes? 

Have you read any new codes.? If yes, what are they?. If they're the SAME codes, then carry out the procedures as already suggested as they will be the most likely causes. Let us know how you get on. 👍 

I messed up 😢

See here.

12 minutes ago, Groot said:

I messed up 😢

See here.

Does it still start and run?

PCM adaptions is just that, minor tweaks, it's not all the map files.  As suggested, taking it for a drive will allow it to create new adaptions.  It might drive a bit odd for the first few miles while it relearns.

Thanks.

I've been taking it to the station and shops a few times but haven't had the chance to take it on a dual carriageway of some sort yet.

I don't have an issue with the battery anymore. Charging it fixed that although the voltage seems a tad low.

However, I very much still have an issue with the engine as it stills chug and seems to be a bit worse now.

Before I messed up it did report Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected. Unfortunately it looks like I have to take it to a garage since taking it for a long spin before didn't work and I can't find any water issue as previously suggested. If it was an expensice car then fair enough but the repair cost might be not be worth it 😥

As said before, it's really strange because it was fine before I went away for a month. Then as soon as I started it up (after charging the battery) this happens.

Maybe it's got the Corona virus, after all, It was from China where I came back from 😮

5 hours ago, Groot said:

Maybe it's got the Corona virus, after all, It was from China where I came back from 😮

I do hope you are parking it at least 2m from other cars, better still, keep it in your garage and self isolate for a bit. Ooppsss... just realised, that's how all your issues started LOL

As it's a single cylinder misfire it's probably only the plug, lead or at worst the coil pack.  Have you tried any of those yet?  You can swap the plug and lead with another (separately!) to see if the fault moves to another cylinder to confirm or rule out those.