1.6TDCI DPF Issues

[RasmusL]

Hello!
 

I have recently been having alot of issues related to my DPF on my 2009 C-max 1.6 tdci. Until about November the car was functioning perfectly, fuel usage was low, less than 5.0 l/100km average (47mpg), and the car had plenty of power. The problem first emerged when I was doing a longer drive (1000km or so), the car became more and more sluggish, and fuel consumption increased during the drive. At about 500km I received the 'engine fault' error for the first time, accompanied by the p242f error code.

 

After this I began researching potential issues and made the assumption that the Eolys fluid was empty, I consequently filled the Eolys tank with fluid, and went about normally. The issue however returned, and this time I had no idea what the cause could be. I decided to clean the DPF using a spray which I sprayed through the temperature sensor hole, and did a forced regeneration, again the issue seemed to go away, only to return a few weeks later. This time I continued researching and found a way to see the DPF differential pressure through FORSCAN, the DP started out at around 2-3 kPa at idle, quickly climbing to 10+ during hard acceleration or longer drives. Once the regeneration started while driving on the motorway the pressure dropped somewhat, to around 7-8 kPa, only to climb once the temperature dropped.

 

During this time I also noted an increased oil level (probably from excess diesel) and a considerably higher consumption (7l/100km). Again I was at a loss for ideas. During this time the turbo had developed a leak from the banjo bolt at the top of the turbo, I decided to demount the turbo to replace the oil feed line, and at the same time I removed the DPF to rinse it.

 

During the rinsing of the DPF there was very little black/red water actually being flushed out, at least in comparison to some of the videos I have seen on the internet. After rinsing it for about 5-10 minutes in cold water, adding EGR cleaner, and DPF cleaner, the water was clear and seemed to flow rather easily through the DPF. After this I did a forced regen and the issue seemed to disappear, for the third time.

 

After this I monitored the DPF differential pressure closely while driving on the motorway, the pressure was quite a bit lower, but still too high at around 10kPa; low enough to not trigger the engine fault, but way too high for normal operation. To add to the problem I was also getting the p2458 code, for regeneration duration too long, all the time. I began questioning whether the issue actually was a clogged DPF or a clogged hose/malfunctioning sensor.

 

I decided to purchase new DPF pressure hoses, which I installed earlier today. After install all seemed fine, but I wasn't able to check the differential pressure at the time. When I finally had time to check the pressure, I started by doing the DPF learned values reset, and as soon as I drove off from the parking lot I noticed, once again, too high pressure values. This time i was having 0.5-0.8 kPa at idle, quickly increasing to 5-10 kPa during light acceleration, and 20+ kPa during highway driving. After the car had gone into limp mode I continued driving and managed to have a maximum of 30 kPa pressure difference at 90 kmh and 2500 rpm!

 

I don't really know what to do, the next step would be to possibly replace the DPF pressure sensor, however I doubt that the sensor is at fault.

Another issue could be that the Eolys fluid is empty, however the DPF exhaust temperature gets to 500-600c during regeneration while driving which to me indicates that Eolys fluid is actually injected to increase the temperature.

 

So to recap, I have cleaned the DPF several times, changed the pressure hoses, replaced the Eolys fluid, but I still have issues with the differential pressure being through the roof, and the regeneration duration error occurring.

 

Please let me know if you have any thoughts or ideas!

 

Kind regards

Rasmus

[TomsFocus]

Just for reference, Eolys doesn't increase DPF temperature.  It reduces the temperature at which the soot burns.  So you can't use the DPF temp to confirm that Eolys is getting through.

Personally, I think the DPF will be blocked with ash.  Any ash that was present when you washed it will now be rock solid concrete.

Do you know anyone with a similar car?  The same DPF sensor is used on loads of models so if you can borrow a known working one that could be a free way to rule out the sensor at least.

 

[Tizer]

It is strange that the problem appeared suddenly. Do you have any other problems such as excessive smoke?

I would agree with @TomsFocus about ruling out a faulty DPF Pressure Sensor one way or another. The temperatures you are getting during Regeneration are correct, but what temperatures are you getting during normal driving?.

If the DPF is clogged up then in the UK there are companies that will cut it open and clean out the Brick properly, but if the pressures you are getting are correct (I can't believe how high they are) then it will probably be too damaged to be fixed by this or any other method. A Forum member found this out recently.

If you do replace the DPF and there is an underlying problem the new one will go the same way. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 7, 2020 by Tizer
Posted early in error

[RasmusL]

Thanks for responding!

@TomsFocus: I don't know of anyone with a similar car, sadly. I got a suggestion from a colleague to use a compressor with a pressure gauge attachment and try to see whether the pressures behave as expected, I will do so tomorrow.

I have to agree with you regarding the ash 'concretication' after rinsing the DPF; that is what I was worried about before the rinsing but I decided to give it a shot since using other kinds of sprays and solvents hadn't worked. Thanks for the tip about the Eolys fluid!

 

@Tizer No real problems with smoke, not even during forced regens; during the forced regen I did earlier today there was no smoke emitted at all. When the problems first emerged there wasn't really any excess smoke either, only minor white smoke when starting until getting to operating temperature during cold temperatures. However I do remember that once or twice, a week or so after the problem first emerged, I remember there being quite a large puddle under the car of oil or similar, it smelled like diesel but I am not 100% sure; no puddles have occured since.

What I though could be the problem earlier was a leaking turbo which would have spewed oil into the DPF, however it turned out the turbo itself was solid and the only leak was from the banjo bolt. Another concern was the EGR, however when viewing through FORSCAN the EGR is functioning normally. During hard acceleration or engine braking it closes immediately (0% indicated) and during normal operation it is continuously opening/closing, between 25-85% depending on conditions if I recall correctly.

Another issue is a slow coolant leak, I haven’t been able to track it down, but I believe it could be a leaking expansion tank, no visible puddles under the car, no milky oil, and no white smoke.

The temperatures during driving are in the 300-350c range, usually stabilizing and holding almost perfectly steady at 350c.

 

Before I completed a forced regen earlier today the pressures were incredibly high, idle was almost 1.0 kPa, and barely doing 50kmh and not even 25% throttle, caused the engine fault message to appear after the pressure went over 20 kPa. I completed a regen and the idle pressure went down to almost 0, but highway driving pressures were still in the 10-15 kPa range at 100kmh, and acceleration past about 110 wasn't possible without triggering the fault. 

Next course of action would probably be to invest in a new DPF however, as Tizer wrote, any underlying problem will cause the next DPF to fail aswell.

[Tizer]

53 minutes ago, RasmusL said:

The temperatures during driving are in the 300-350c range, usually stabilizing and holding almost perfectly steady at 350c

That is a little bit higher than I would have expected for steady speed cruising when comparing it to the slightly later version of that engine without the Eolys fluid, but if you are burning a lot of fuel and the engine is having to work hard to overcome a blocked DPF then that would account for it.

[RasmusL]

Hello again!

 

Pressure sensor checked and seems to be working just fine, so the issue seems to actually be a blocked DPF.

I'm not sure how long the DPFs are designed to last, but I've heard other models usually last around 200k km before needing replacement. My car currenly has about 230k, almost 150k miles, so it doesn't seem improbable that the DPF needs replacement simply due to mileage 😕

 

Have you got any tips for commonly failing items on the 1.6 tdci? I'd just like to check out any potential issues before I go ahead and install a new DPF!

 

/Rasmus

[TomsFocus]

11 hours ago, RasmusL said:

Hello again!

 

Pressure sensor checked and seems to be working just fine, so the issue seems to actually be a blocked DPF.

I'm not sure how long the DPFs are designed to last, but I've heard other models usually last around 200k km before needing replacement. My car currenly has about 230k, almost 150k miles, so it doesn't seem improbable that the DPF needs replacement simply due to mileage 😕

 

Have you got any tips for commonly failing items on the 1.6 tdci? I'd just like to check out any potential issues before I go ahead and install a new DPF!

 

/Rasmus

The Eolys type DPF is only designed to last 75k miles (120k Km) so yours has either done double the expectation or it's been replaced once already!  

The later coated DPFs last the life of the car in most cases, easily 150k miles+.

Common failing items on the 16v 1.6TDCi are turbo (due to carbon deposits as you know) and injectors.  I'd assume you've already had the cambelt done at that mileage, but if not that's well overdue and will need replacement.

[Nekemia Nayenga]

I am new to this forum and have a 2006 Ford Focus Cmax 1.6 TDCI and am currently facing a DPF issuue almost identical to the one described.  Presently, I have refilled, if not over filled my Additive tank using a small pump which juiced the tank to overflow.  I removed the 6 month second-had DPF and washed it with Wyns DPF cleaner according to instructions.  Left it socked with the liquid through the night (14 hrs), as you can see that was excessive.  The liquid that came out was not thickly black nor did any brown stuff came out as seen on youtube.  I did this a second time but still no brown stuff came out ony light black water.  I rinsed it for hours and water came out from eitherside and through the three little openings (O2 sensor and the 2 pressure holes).  I used Forscan to PRIME and reset level several times, but while the tank now shows that it is full, the current level has refused to change from 0/0.15 to reflect what I know is a full 1.8L.  I have also reset the DPF learned values a few times but all this has not permanently cleared the engine management light which shows a sequence of (additive and DPF related codes; P2585, P2458, P0299, P242F, P1922) .  I have used both ELMconfig and Forscan to clear these codes which return almost immediately.

I have also looked at my DPF pressure sensor which looks like it has some physical damages am still investigating but it reads a range of 0 at idle to a peak of 16kPa but mostly running below 5Kpa.  The temperature has risen upto 600 but a complete passive regeneration has failed.  I have tried a static regeneration thrice but failed at 30%.  I have disconnected the FACM and the EML went off but when l scan the codes show.

I changed my EGR and it is functioning well, turbo and cleaned and put new injector washers.  Is there a cofirmatory test that prove whether a DPF is truely blocked.

I am kindly seeking urgent help because my MOT is in a week's time.  Any advice will be kindly appreciated.