Hi Guys,

First time poster here, I have recently purchased a 2010 Focus and I have to say I really like the car.

Two days ago however, on my way home from work when reaching around 3k revs in 2nd gear Engine malfunction light came on, I pulled over and shut the engine off. After having a look through the onboard diagnostic menu it showed me no DTC's found so I started the car back up and drove it back carefully rest of the way. I would like to note at this point there was no issues with starting or operation of the engine.

The very same day I have ordered an OBD to usb connector and today managed to to get some more info from for FORScan, here is a snippet:

 

===PCM DTC P253F-20===
Code: P253F - Engine Oil Deteriorated

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

===END PCM DTC P253F-20===

===PCM DTC P0087-20===
Code: P0087 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low

This DTC may be caused by :

Fuel leakage

Incorrect operation of the pressure limiting valve.

Inspect connectors for signs of damage, water ingress, corrosion, etc.

Large pressure drops in the low pressure fuel system.

Check for air leaks in the low pressure fuel system.

For further diagnostic information refer to the appropriate section of eTIS.

===END PCM DTC P0087-20===

===PCM DTC P2290-20===
Code: P2290 - ICP Too Low

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Powertrain Control Module

===END PCM DTC P2290-20===

I would like to state that I'm not a mechanic by any means and my knowledge is limited. Doing some research online however seems to indicate that the above is a result of a clogged fuel filter and these tend to be somewhat troublesome on those models.

This afternoon I had no other choice but to jump in a car and drive (again, it was somewhat of an emergency) and the engine did not throw any warning lights, didn't stutter and drove just fine (I didn't push it above 3k revs however).

Are you able to pinpoint the problem based on the above before I take it to a mechanic? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sorry, Forgot to mention that it is a 1.6 TDCI Doratorq engine, 109 hp.

My first thoughts there are fuel filter, if you give it the beans and it's not able to keep up usually that would be the first port of call, especially being the cheaper option. Other thoughts can be the fuel pump, but I wouldn't really suspect that unless accompanied by other noises or symptoms.

I'm even less of a mechanic  than the reporter of this ...but im having string  of  errors  including the one mentioned here , plus  'service oil', 'crank position ' , and  'imobilizer fault'(once).

today it stalled for the first time in heavy town traffic and it was dodgy , since mine is a diesil  and the  steering   went .

 

it started  and ran 'ok'  again 5 mins later .

i should add that  i had an  oil change 3 months  ago and a  new fuel filter last october .

there  are a lot of youtubes on this and at the moment im investigating the possibility of  dry solder in the dash cluster  .im looking for an auto technician .

Might be worth resetting the ECU. Unplug the battery for 30 mins to let the ECU memory clear. Connect the battery back and leave it for 10 minutes. Then turn the ignition on and leave it for 5 mins without starting the engine. Then take it for a drive and it should start learning. This might fix some of these error messages.

On 2/27/2020 at 8:21 PM, CChris said:

managed to to get some more info from for FORScan,

Clear all codes, after logging them, and see what returns.

Both P2290 & P0087 relate to low or incorrect fuel pressure readings. One cause, as suggested, is a clogged fuel filter. An even more lilely one is air leaks into the fuel system. There is no tank pump on these cars, nor on most Ford diesels, so the main pump has to suck fuel up from the tank and through the filter. This means all that pipework is under some suction, and will draw air in if there are leaks, you will not see any fuel coming out. Air in the fuel will certainly cause low fuel pressure, the pump can not pressurise fuel with air in it properly, and will not suck up fuel if it contains too much air.

The fuel rail pressure sensors are often suspected, and are widely available now, but are rarely the cause. Forscan can log live data, both while starting and running, and sometimes this can point to a fault area. But with everything being so interconnected, it can be hard. However, it costs nothing but a little effort, so is worth a try.

Careful noting of the symptoms, and when they happen, can be the best way to narrow these problems down.

20 hours ago, redzzed said:

I'm even less of a mechanic  than the reporter of this ...but im having string  of  errors  including the one mentioned here , plus  'service oil', 'crank position ' , and  'imobilizer fault'(once).

...

today it stalled for the first time in heavy town traffic and it was dodgy , since mine is a diesil  and the  steering   went .

...

there  are a lot of youtubes on this and at the moment im investigating the possibility of  dry solder in the dash cluster  .im looking for an auto technician .

Having a bunch of faults  seemingly unrelated does indicate the dash cluster or some other electrical gremlin; if you haven't driven through deeper water lately then I would think that to be worth a look; if you have, is the passenger footwell damp at all/have you had more condensation in the car than usual e.g. overnight and in the morning its wet? If so, I would suspect the electronics that reside there.

Otherwise, give the dash a good clout if you seem to have a fault, it may get you running again in which case it's more likely the cluster.. Nothing can be certain without more diagnostic info but from the brief fault list there it's not unheard of.

It isn't massively difficult to do the job yourself, and a competent person with half decent soldering skills could probably do the job if you're stuck; mechanically it's not that difficult to remove and take apart - I'm sure there will be videos and guides online, I just haven't any links to provide off the top of my head!

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the responses.

I have changed the fuel filter and cleared the codes, took it out for a test drive and the problem went away.

Cheers