Headlight bulb h7

[Fastfordninja]

Hi can anyone tell me have they changed the h7 55w headlight standard for a aftermarket h7 100w bulb brighter white. They say due to the wattage change in the bulb you may have to upgrade the wiring has anyone experienced this thanks........ 

[Frembrit]

Well, more wattage = more current draw so if the cable isn't thick enough then it will melt/catch fire.

Why not just go for bulbs like the Osram Night Breakers or SIlver Stars, same wattage but brighter.

[2 Fast 4 U]

Or the Phillips White Vision with the transparent blue glass, they give whiter light than the "normal" clear bulbs

[Botus]

100w is illegal, and the ones I had no better.  If you want to go illegal then LEDs at 20w each (stated as 40w in the adverts because they are stupid) don't pop (due to the BCM fault in every Mk2) and don't get you flashed by other road users.  Passive cooled Novasight formerly Nighteye are great still going no issues at 2 years on.  Don't go past the 4000 LM ones plain stupid for everyone.

here's why any halogen headlight should have been taken off the road 20 years ago.  Trying to upgrade halogen bulbs with better gas short life trash is a waste of space

 

the issues are related to the conditions and technology available at the time... the world moved on and halogens are 30 years past their safe usage. They are legal because the laws are outdated and stupid and your life doesn't matter.

all ages and points subject to validation and interpretation:

1950 - 35 watt conventional bulbs on an unlit road are the best we've got. But as you are the only vehicle out, they provide lighting, enabling you to drive at night slowly.

1960 - 45 watt sealed beam (are the new LEDs of their day) significantly better and far more reliable, OK up to 50mph, you are now one of two cars on the road at night in the whole country.

1972 - 55 watt halogen's come out, most roads are unlit outside major cities and these made driving on more modern wide A roads safer, they brought a far whiter colour with a longer beam. Just OK in suitable conditions up to 65mph, you are one of 4 cars on the road at night.

1998 - Xenon's, to go with your new lights, your car became 8 inches wider than anyone else's. The windscreen is now twice as deep bringing reflections making it hard to see outside and the pillars drastically reduce side vision. Fortunately the new light technology offsets most of the safety impact of the angled screen. The lights improved the beam pattern and gave twice as much light where it mattered. Brighter, whiter, with a far wider, longer and no gap beam pattern. With 100% improvement in lighting you now become the only vehicle able to see most of what's happening at night amongst the 5000 cars on the road in your town.

2016 - LEDs, with side crash rules your car is now 18" wider than vehicles were when Halogen lights were the new thing. The screen pillars are 5 times wider than they were in 1972 and are almost horizontal. Together with so many in car screens and gadgets producing dangerous reflections and distractions you need better headlights. You now get to see 200% more than the halogen lights brought to the party. However you now blind every other road user and whilst you can now drive at 120 mph and still see at night, all you see is everyone one of the other 10,000 cars crashing, because they can see nothing at all. But you have a big detached house and they are on zero hours contracts so that's OK.

2019 - Laser lights, you can see everything, and the rest still can't see what a mess the world is in. You don't care because you 've got all the money and they don't matter.

 

[TomsFocus]

2020 - You no longer need lights as you're only allowed out for essential trips and everywhere is closed at night...

 

 

 

[Lenny]

Could fit a light bar; 

Wire it to a switch inside the car aswell as an "auto on" DRL relay to the Positive feed of "high beam bulb"

This way; when its switched on; it automatically lights up along with your high beam lights,

Heres ons I fitted to my mates mk1 Toyota yaris 😅 was cheaper than headlight restoration kit or HID upgrade, got this one from amazon has magnified lenses and larger chip set LED it's a 25" 500w 7D lightbar on a 1.0Litre Toyota yaris fits nicely in the bottom grill. 

Check link above: 

[StephenFord]

3 hours ago, Lenny said:

Could fit a light bar; 

Wire it to a switch inside the car aswell as an "auto on" DRL relay to the Positive feed of "high beam bulb"

This way; when its switched on; it automatically lights up along with your high beam lights,

Heres ons I fitted to my mates mk1 Toyota yaris 😅 was cheaper than headlight restoration kit or HID upgrade, got this one from Amazon has magnified lenses and larger chip set LED it's a 25" 500w 7D lightbar on a 1.0Litre Toyota yaris fits nicely in the bottom grill. 

 

 

 

I love that light bar! Yes, I'm an old f*rt, but still a boy racer at heart...

[nicam49]

500watts? That means it pulls over 40amps, so what size cabling would it need 🤔

A switch wouldn't last very long., how is it switched? 

[StephenFord]

2 minutes ago, nicam49 said:

500watts? That means it pulls over 40amps, so what size cabling would it need 🤔

A switch wouldn't last very long., how is it switched? 

It's an LED light bar, I think you'll find the 500W is the equivalent rating in halogen term of brightness, the actual draw would be about about 50-80W 🤣

[Lenny]

33 minutes ago, nicam49 said:

500watts? That means it pulls over 40amps, so what size cabling would it need 🤔

A switch wouldn't last very long., how is it switched? 

Its fitted using 15AMP cable purchased from Autostar shop on eBay which is in the uk, 

Earth has a ring terminal crimped and bolt to the chassis 

The positive feed is directly from the battery with a 10Amp fuse 

The Positive feed goes in to a 12v rocker switch that I fitted in the dash 

Comes back out of the switch to a DRL relay purchased from Ebay 

The DRL relay has a sensor feed which is one single cable; that is spliced in to the Positive feed of the high beam.

So the DRL relay let's the light bar to illuminate when it feels power in the high beam.

The switch in the dash is to switch off the light bar from any use when stopped by the cops and they ask the driver to demonstrate each light function, the switch keeps the light bar for "off road use" 

Private laneway up to a relative's house for example 🤷‍♂️ 

It's all very simple and operating on 15 amp cable with a 10amp fuse 

If looking at light bars ideally you want a 7D with cree chips for optimum performance there not atall heavy neither only around 800grams or less for that 27" bar there on the yaris