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Dead Battery -Key fob does not work


Dhiraj
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Hi, 

 I have a 2017 Ford Fiesta and my battery seems to be drained out as I am unable to unlock my car using the Key fob.Worrying there is no way to manually use the key and enter the Car . I am locked out of the car. Any idea what is the alternative to unlock the car (and open bonnet) where one cannot use  manual key input   on the door handles?

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Can you not use the hidden key in the fob ?

if you didn't know there is a key blade within the fob.  Press the edge nearest the metal ring that holds other keys attached.  The top flap then opens a little to reveal the key.

On the door handle there is a section to back of the handle that can be removed with the key blade to expose a traditional key hole.

See below for manual sections...

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Seeing quite a few posts on here with dead batteries 😞 .

Really hope you can get it sorted Raj m8.

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Thank you so much for your prompt response tef89..Much appreaciated ..I will get it cracking.

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10 minutes ago, Dhiraj said:

Thank you so much for your prompt response tef89..Much appreaciated ..I will get it cracking.

No worries.  Hope you can get it sorted. 

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Glad I have found this thread , I own a MK8 Fiesta ST and I have tried both key fobs , and have also tried the hidden key in the back of the fob but still to no luck. 
does anyone know any other ways of getting in the car or bonnet open ? 
I was able to get into my car 4 days ago , has had very little driving since this lockdown and been working from home , I’m guessing battery might be dead but can’t get in to car or bonnet to check 

any help would be appreciated 

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Glad I have found this thread , I own a MK8 Fiesta ST and I have tried both key fobs , and have also tried the hidden key in the back of the fob but still to no luck. 
does anyone know any other ways of getting in the car or bonnet open ? 
I was able to get into my car 4 days ago , has had very little driving since this lockdown and been working from home , I’m guessing battery might be dead but can’t get in to car or bonnet to check 
any help would be appreciated 
What do you mean it doesn't work? It's a manual lock so there is no way for it to fail. If you're having trouble turning the blade then spray the lock with WD-40 and use a pair of pliers to get some purchase on the end of the blade when you turn it.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

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The end on the key fits into the key fob itself to give you that bit of extra grip needed. 

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25 minutes ago, Wino said:

The end on the key fits into the key fob itself to give you that bit of extra grip needed. 

it will be nearly impossible to turn the key without using the fob for extra grip 

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As Jonro suggested spray key and into the lock with WD40. These locks seize up quickly when not used.

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6 hours ago, Jonro2009 said:

What do you mean it doesn't work? It's a manual lock so there is no way for it to fail. If you're having trouble turning the blade then spray the lock with WD-40 and use a pair of pliers to get some purchase on the end of the blade when you turn it.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

It was pitch black when I tried this last night , I have since been out again this afternoon and have managed to get into the car using the manual lock , definitely battery has gone as no response from the push start button or anything in the dash at all.

With it being a start/stop battery can I use a normal battery charger to trickle charge it or does it have to be a specific battery charger or would I be able to jump start using another car with start/stop battery as have read on different places not to jump start just want to check before going ahead with any of these 

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Ten steps to jump start a car

  1. Before starting, make sure any electrical systems or devices in the vehicle with the dead battery are switched off (Lights, radio/CD, sat-nav etc). 
  2. Park the second vehicle as close to the casualty vehicle as possible, without the vehicles touching, ensuring the jump leads will comfortably reach from one battery to the other.
  3. Ensure both vehicles engines are switched off, remove the ignition keys and open their bonnets (or boot if the battery’s located there). 
  4. Attach one end of the red jump lead to the positive terminal on the flat battery. The positive terminal will usually have a red plastic cover with a plus (+) symbol on it. Pull the cover back to access the terminal.
  5. Then attach the other end of the red jump lead to the positive terminal of the good battery on the second vehicle.
  6. Attach one end of the black jump lead to the negative terminal of the good battery.
  7. Then attach the other end of the black jump lead to a good earth point on the casualty vehicle – a solid metal part of the engine is usually best.
  8. Start the engine of the second vehicle.
  9. Now attempt to start the casualty vehicle. If it doesn’t start after a few attempts, it might be more serious than a flat battery. In this event, seek professional help
  10. If it does start, leave both vehicles running for five minutes.
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2 hours ago, KrissW92 said:

It was pitch black when I tried this last night , I have since been out again this afternoon and have managed to get into the car using the manual lock , definitely battery has gone as no response from the push start button or anything in the dash at all.

With it being a start/stop battery can I use a normal battery charger to trickle charge it or does it have to be a specific battery charger or would I be able to jump start using another car with start/stop battery as have read on different places not to jump start just want to check before going ahead with any of these 

I've always been mega nervous about the thought of jump starting a modern car from a donor car, luckily I've never had an issue, well until this one of course.  Especially as it's pretty much impossible to turn sensitive electronics off (see item 1 above) in new cars.

There's a thread I started when I had my battery fail in February which contained some good information from members about chargers etc:

 

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I've just had the same problem with my St-line, battery had gone dead and couldn't get in the car. I used the blade in the key fob and got the AA to start my car. Even though I ran the car for a few hours, I still had to use the blade to get in until I gave the car a good run out. Looks like people will have to give their cars a run out during lockdown just to keep the car battery healthy.

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12 hours ago, Tiexen said:

Ten steps to jump start a car

  1. Before starting, make sure any electrical systems or devices in the vehicle with the dead battery are switched off (Lights, radio/CD, sat-nav etc). 
  2. Park the second vehicle as close to the casualty vehicle as possible, without the vehicles touching, ensuring the jump leads will comfortably reach from one battery to the other.
  3. Ensure both vehicles engines are switched off, remove the ignition keys and open their bonnets (or boot if the battery’s located there). 
  4. Attach one end of the red jump lead to the positive terminal on the flat battery. The positive terminal will usually have a red plastic cover with a plus (+) symbol on it. Pull the cover back to access the terminal.
  5. Then attach the other end of the red jump lead to the positive terminal of the good battery on the second vehicle.
  6. Attach one end of the black jump lead to the negative terminal of the good battery.
  7. Then attach the other end of the black jump lead to a good earth point on the casualty vehicle – a solid metal part of the engine is usually best.
  8. Start the engine of the second vehicle.
  9. Now attempt to start the casualty vehicle. If it doesn’t start after a few attempts, it might be more serious than a flat battery. In this event, seek professional help
  10. If it does start, leave both vehicles running for five minutes.

Appreciate this info mate , I don’t have any issue when it comes to jump starting a car , it’s just more of the question am I able to jump start my MK8 ST start/stop battery with any normal car without causing any damage to the donor car battery or mine itself  , ive read so many different do’s and don’t just want to make sure 

also just want to check with the battery charger , can I get away with a normal battery charger or does it have to be one of those CTek ones ? 

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11 hours ago, tef89 said:

I've always been mega nervous about the thought of jump starting a modern car from a donor car, luckily I've never had an issue, well until this one of course.  Especially as it's pretty much impossible to turn sensitive electronics off (see item 1 above) in new cars.

There's a thread I started when I had my battery fail in February which contained some good information from members about chargers etc:

 

Yeah same as that , reading so many different things about Jump starting certain batteries just want to make sure before I do anything.

just read through you battery thread too why don’t they just make a simple straight replacement for the battery , ive seen about certain chargers just wanted to know if I could give mine a trickle charge with a normal one just to get it some juice just to start.

29 minutes ago, Wil19 said:

I've just had the same problem with my St-line, battery had gone dead and couldn't get in the car. I used the blade in the key fob and got the AA to start my car. Even though I ran the car for a few hours, I still had to use the blade to get in until I gave the car a good run out. Looks like people will have to give their cars a run out during lockdown just to keep the car battery healthy.

Well it might now seem as though driving a MK8 fiesta is now part of an essential trip just to keep the battery in good health, can’t complain at that idea

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8 minutes ago, KrissW92 said:

Appreciate this info mate , I don’t have any issue when it comes to jump starting a car , it’s just more of the question am I able to jump start my MK8 ST start/stop battery with any normal car without causing any damage to the donor car battery or mine itself  , ive read so many different do’s and don’t just want to make sure 

also just want to check with the battery charger , can I get away with a normal battery charger or does it have to be one of those CTek ones ? 

From another thread (not a Fiesta but still ecoboost):

"It wouldn't respond to the remote. It had been standing unused for about 4 weeks so I assumed it was the car battery (I tried both remotes so ruled out the remote battery). I got in using the key blade,  I connected the CTEK and left it for about 11 hours by which time it had got through all its steps so I disconnected and tried starting the car. It started ok.

The thing is that, even though I didn't use the 'Recondition' setting, it must have given the battery a boost because using the car for the first time today the auto Stop-Start is suddenly working and it's only worked very intermittently in the year I've had the car - I could count the number on the fingers of one hand."

https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/90284-what-battery-charger/

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Been wondering myself if its worth investing in a smart charger while we are in lockdown. Could come in handy if I want the stop/start to work again.

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Read this from YOG on the battery charger link, worth bearing in mind for all those who've 'lost' their handbooks

In the FORD FOCUS Owner's Manual (2015 CG3630en 01-2015), there is a “Note” under “Locks”:

 

"Note: When you lock your vehicle for several weeks, the remote control will be switched off. Your vehicle must be unlocked and started. Unlocking and starting your vehicle once will enable the remote control."

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4 hours ago, Tiexen said:

From another thread (not a Fiesta but still ecoboost):

"It wouldn't respond to the remote. It had been standing unused for about 4 weeks so I assumed it was the car battery (I tried both remotes so ruled out the remote battery). I got in using the key blade,  I connected the CTEK and left it for about 11 hours by which time it had got through all its steps so I disconnected and tried starting the car. It started ok.

The thing is that, even though I didn't use the 'Recondition' setting, it must have given the battery a boost because using the car for the first time today the auto Stop-Start is suddenly working and it's only worked very intermittently in the year I've had the car - I could count the number on the fingers of one hand."

https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/90284-what-battery-charger/

Which CTEK charger do you have as just been on there site and few different options , I think I’m going to get myself one to get through this lockdown and always there as a backup if get this problem again 

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This one is your best bet, it's a decent charger and very versatile. Automatic and it had a memory in case of a power cut part way through charging.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC42HAA/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I personally have the NOCO genius 3500 and it's a good one too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00E907PWS/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_zqdNEb6CG289S

The CTEK seems to be the more popular however.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

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56 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

This one is your best bet, it's a decent charger and very versatile. Automatic and it had a memory in case of a power cut part way through charging.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC42HAA/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I personally have the NOCO genius 3500 and it's a good one too.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00E907PWS/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_zqdNEb6CG289S

The CTEK seems to be the more popular however.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

Thank you for the links appreciate this , ive just got that CTEK one as had plenty of amazon vouchers to spend , all been a great help 

fingers crossed this resolves my issues 

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