MDG950 Posted May 28, 2020 Author Share Posted May 28, 2020 We now have matching his and hers Focuses. The wife's Peugeot 3008 has gone and has been replaced by Mk3.5 Focus Estate 2.0 tcdi Titanium X. And in other news I treated mine to a clay bar and polish, the paint does look good but there are some areas where the lacquer is lifting and flaking off especially around the front bumper but also underneath the passenger side rear door window. I'm absolutely clueless when it comes to paint, i'll post some pictures and if anyone has any suggestions that would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Finance Guy Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 Looks like my driveway in technicolour! My wife’s Focus isn’t an estate though, and is only a 1.5 Titanium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 On now to the sync 3 upgrade. Finally got hold of a sync 3 apim, screen and fascia for £150 on eBay! Deals are still out there. Small breakers are your best bet, the chap who sold mine was selling it as a sync 2 but from the photos I spotted a sync 3 apim 😁 I'm not going to go over the installation in any detail, there are already some brilliant guides on the forum that have all the information you need. I'll just report my findings as I go. Here's what I started with. I've heard some grumblings about the sound quality on the sync 2/3 not being as good as the Sony sync 1 system. I think I read it is possible to run the sync 1 ACM but that will loose the traffic updates. I'll be fitting the sync 3 ACM and if it's no good I'll put the Sony ACM back in. The only issue so far is my car came with the reverse camera so I have the yellow fakra plug but looking on the schematics the video feed goes into the old display on pins 6 and 12 of the 12 pin connector. Looking at those pins they do indeed lead to a coax cable. For now I've hooked up the camera input to the yellow fakra. If it doesn't work I'll swap em. Next up were the pin swaps. And repurposing the wires from the aux in to transmit power to the media hub. Next, splicing into the ms-can network. The twisted blue and white wires are plumbed into the ms-can pins on the 54pin connector ready to be spliced onto the purple/orange and grey/orange wires on the blue HVAC plug. Soldering is the only way to go, I just don't trust the scotch locks. And the finished splice with the fabric Tesa tape applied: Plugged in the transit sync module I had first just in case it all failed the magic smoke test 🤨 No smoke, just a nearly working sync 3! Then it got dark so tasks still to do: Verify reverse camera feed Fascia panel wiring Tidy up wiring Media hub wiring Programming Sounds like a fun day ahead 😊 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 An update, I've got a 95% working system. Everything except the reverse camera is working. All I get is a blue screen, then a black screen and then the message telling me the camera is unavailable. I've tried changing a few settings my as built data but I don't think that's the problem. I've checked the wiring and it all looks to be ok, I'll have to have a more in depth look later on. The wires labeled as the video feed on my schematics turned out to be the data link for the traffic updates between the ACM and the apim. I spotted the wire colours were the same when I went to do the ACM main to ACM accessory pin swaps. (Two wires in the black sleeving) I should just have followed @Luke_Anderson's spreadsheet instead of downloading the schematics and working it out for myself. The data link pin swaps were on the spreadsheet. Additionally the front panel buttons didn't work, I had the can wires around the wrong way again caused by following fords official documentation. All sorted now. Last observation from me is the media hub wiring. To make life easier I removed the rear panel from the centre arm rest. I hadn't expected just how hard I had to pull to get the panel off. Photo below shows where the clips are that need persuading. Spliced the media hub plug onto the repurposed aux in wiring. Pin 1 was the 5v power and pin 4 was ground to the USB hub. Again ford schematics not much help here either. For the USB at the apmi end I cut the old usb connector off and soldered on the correct socket from a sync 3 media hub loom from a fiesta. The media hub power plug also came from this loom. At the media hub end I was able to unclip the old usb socket and plug a short usb to usb mini cable. Wrapping the connection in Tesa tape means it will never come apart. So yeah, just the camera and an update to version 3.4. I've got bags more photos if anyone needs any pointers I'll gladly help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 Does anyone know if anybody has converted one of the unused switches below the HVAC control panel to do the door locking? It looks very possible maybe if I swapped my switch covers onto a switch unit with two working switches....The door lock switch wouldn't be labelled but thats not a huge issue for me, it's got to be doable 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Buffery Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 29 minutes ago, MDG950 said: Does anyone know if anybody has converted one of the unused switches below the HVAC control panel to do the door locking? Yeah @Monks600 did it. It's at the end of the "Wiring diagram required for MK3 internal central locking switch" Thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Buffery Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 The blank to the left of the ESP switch is actually just another switch. You need to file off the plastic tabs stopping the switch moving and solder on a couple of terminals. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted June 2, 2020 Author Share Posted June 2, 2020 Sounds like a plan, I'll look it up and give it a go. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted June 3, 2020 Author Share Posted June 3, 2020 Reverse camera is now working. Checking the wiring I found a dead short across the video feed pins into the apim. Found the problem was in the fakra to RCA conversation lead I'd bought. Taking the fakra plug apart showed the cable hadn't been terminated properly. So I chucked the pigtail and plumbed the video feed cable straight into the apim. So the only thing I'm missing now are the red yellow green distance markers and steering angle overlay on the reverse camera image. I suspect that's a bit more fiddling with the as built data to fix that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 Here are the photos (Not very good ones) of the lacquer issues I've got, first one is just behind the front wheel arch, in front of the drivers door: And some flaking just above the front grill: More peeling under the passenger side rear door window: And a random chip on the roof: I not really sure if it's worth spending the time and money to fix them up. I think for now I'll monitor them and make sure the peeling doesn't get any worse. The colour helps, I didn't even notice them until I got the car home. Has anyone else experienced these type of issues with their paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 In other news I updated my sync to version 3.4 19101. Overall I think it's an improvement but there are still some things wrong with the UI like there is not enough space to display the song title and artist anymore. Functionally however I've lost the ability to play music from playlists on the USB drive in the in correct playlist order, the songs just appear alphabetically now. The same is true if I try to play an album. This all used to work fine before the update. Also although I'll check this again I don't seem to be able to charge my phone from the USB port anymore. The phone says it's charging for 2 seconds then says its not charging for two seconds. This could well be my phone so some more debugging is required here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 Updating to sync 3.4 19274 has solved the playlist issue and the intermittent power to the USB hub. Everything seems to work a lot better as well, android auto feels much quicker and more tightly integrated. The result, one happy bunny 😁🤨 I won't be updating my sync anymore due to the bugs reported in 20021. I've had enough of bugs for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 New mats from logocarmats.com: The're a perfect fit and feel like good quality. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monks600 Posted August 7, 2020 Share Posted August 7, 2020 Love it, just read through all of this tonight and you’ve really got stuck right in!As someone mentioned, I used the blank button for the door locking and unlocking and I’ve even found a sticker to resemble a padlock lol. Works flawlessly.I went to sync 2 but now wishing I just went straight to 3. Still struggling to find a decent sync 3 unit on the e of bay! Thanks for the brill read and all the photos, nothing better than lots of photos... it’s the only reason I look at a newspaper, photos haha.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 It's been a while, time for an update. Both mine and the wife's cars have thrown up errors in the last few weeks. Plugging into the wife's car gave P2463 Particulate Filter Restriction - soot accumulation along with P242C Exhaust gas temperature circuit low bank 1. Luckily it was still under warranty but before we booked it in I did some more investigation. We tried a manual dpf regeneration which reduced the soot loading figures and cleared the DTC. But it didn't take long to reappear. Plugging in again showed some odd readings with the DPF soot loading figures specifically the open and closed loop soot loading figures where very different. Open loop around 50-60% and closed loop around 120%. My theory was the open loop is what the car expected it's loading to be and the closed loop the loading as measured by the delta pressure sensor across the DPF. Definitely worth letting Ford take a look. So the work was completed as follows: Initial Diagnostics £75.00 Further diagnostics wouldn't complete until the exhaust temperature sensor was fixed, this turned out to be two sensors £173.40 plus £112.43 - DTC still present DPF pressure sensor changed £46.30 - DTC still present DPF regen fuel vapourised changed £131.37 - DTC cleared Plus labour and VAT came to the best part of £700 but all fixed. To sum up it looks like the fuel pump that provides the fuel to raise the temperature of the DPF had failed which meant the DPF wasn't regenerating correctly. The closed loop soot loading reading was correct. Not sure why the exhaust temperature sensors had failed though, possibly a failed attempt in the past to repair the issue?? Now it is working and regening again I'll check the soot loading figures just for interest. Now on to my car, driving home the other night the message 'headlamp malfunction, service required' popped up on the dash and the headlights were set to point at the floor. A few minutes later it reset and all was fine. Over the next few days the message started to appear more and more frequently, interesting it tended to appear more often after turning right. Plugging into Forscan showed: The service manual we have doesn't appear to show the sensor so I didn't know where to look, on my Clio 197 I'd had previously (oddly had the same fault) the front sensor was on the anti roll bar right in the middle of the sub frame. Nice and easy to get to. But forscan had said front left sensor. Taking the front left wheel off and peering into the black void beyond showed nothing that looked like a level sensor. However taking off the right hand wheel revealed: The front left level sensor!! I'll order up one and see if the problem goes away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 So having unplugged and replugged the sensor the issue seems to have gone away. I did notice that one of the two retaining clips had broken on the harness plug. Maybe that was all it was. Fingers crossed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted September 16, 2020 Author Share Posted September 16, 2020 Thanks @Monks600 I've never done a progress thread before, glad you're enjoying it. One question for you is do you recall where you got the padlock stickers for your switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monks600 Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 Thanks [mention=100834]Monks600[/mention] I've never done a progress thread before, glad you're enjoying it. One question for you is do you recall where you got the padlock stickers for your switch?Let me check through my eBay account and other accounts. Honestly cannot remember, I’ll get back to you on that one matey! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted September 17, 2020 Author Share Posted September 17, 2020 The hardships of owning this car: Dirty and burnt shins from the exhaust while unloading the boot. Do other ST owners suffer the same distress? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAIDER32 Posted September 17, 2020 Share Posted September 17, 2020 2 hours ago, MDG950 said: The hardships of owning this car: Dirty and burnt shins from the exhaust while unloading the boot. Do other ST owners suffer the same distress? No, just you 😂 but to be fair I rarely wear shorts so not driven in them. You must have really been reaching in there lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 The headlight level sensor has gone again. Still intermittent but worse than before. I was able to replace the plug with the broken clip with a new one but the problem remains. The issue is the headlight seem to gradually increase the angle of the beam I guess until it reaches a limit. Then the car throws an error and the lights are set to point at the floor. 9 times out of 10 the error then goes away and the lights either return to the correct level or go straight back up to pointing at the sky. At which point the cycle starts again. With the nights drawing in I decided I can't have my headlights going up and down of there own accord so I've disconnected the sensor. This puts the lights into a failsafe position pointing at the floor...Not ideal but it will have to do until I can get the sensor changed. They are expensive, around £250 new or £80-90 used. Managed to find one for £45. Fingers crossed it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted October 26, 2020 Author Share Posted October 26, 2020 Sensor arrived and it's no good. Turned out it was from a mark 2 focus. The sensor is identical except the measurement position of the arm is 90 degrees out from where it needs to be. Yeah, I tried to fit it after work one evening...in the rain....and it was the wrong part. Luckily I checked the sensor using forscan before fitting it and putting everything back together. Second time round with another sensor and it looks to have cured it. Had to drill the old screws out, they had rusted into the threaded inserts in the old sensor. I'll put some part numbers up when I get chance. No warning lights and I can see where I'm going again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share Posted February 1, 2021 Hello again. It's been a while but there has been nothing to report until now. It's service and MOT time and it's just failed, two broken front springs and a quote of £245 from an independent garage to fix it. Needless to say I phoned Ford parts straight away and got the pair of springs for £70 same day. I'll get them fitted on the weekend along with the service if it'll stay dry enough. I'm very interested to see what the difference will be, the only give away that there might have been something wrong was a very minor but intermittent pull to the right. Until now I'd put that down to the road surface since it always seemed to happen at the same point on the trip to work. That will learn me won't it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAIDER32 Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 On 2/1/2021 at 11:05 PM, MDG950 said: It's service and MOT time and it's just failed, two broken front springs and a quote of £245 from an independent garage to fix it. I'm very interested to see what the difference will be, the only give away that there might have been something wrong was a very minor but intermittent pull to the right. Until now I'd put that down to the road surface since it always seemed to happen at the same point on the trip to work. I'm usually very in tune with my car and notice anything out of sync, but my previous car (2009 Zetec S) snapped a spring and I had no idea, My ST tramlines and occasionally feels like it's pulling left on some roads (same places) but I've heard that's common on these cars/tyres. I've been considering asking my local garage about how much it will cost to do a full overhaul of things that fail with age (I'll try to source the parts cheap), My car is almost 6 so not something I'll do any time soon, this is hopefully a long term car so I'd like to change out bushings, springs and brakes all at the same time, I'm hoping that will give me piece of mind and maybe cheaper in the long run, not having to take it in every time it fails an MOT, I've seen it so many times before, a £5 rubber part takes £65 of labour to fit lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDG950 Posted February 6, 2021 Author Share Posted February 6, 2021 Definitely broken: What a git of a job that was! I've changed springs and dampers in every car I've ever owned but this was the most difficult strut removal an reinstallation I've attempted. If you're thinking of doing this job yourself get a little hydraulic jack to push the hub off the end of strut, if yours is anything like mine you will not get it to budge otherwise. Got the bugger out eventually And yes it was chucking it down with rain and snow at some points. Why do these things happen in winter? The ride height will be quite different. There was some more corrosion further up the spring Getting it back together proved a challenge as well. The alignment of the strut into the hub had to be perfect otherwise it would not engage. It took 3-4 attempts on each side to get the everything lined up then releasing the jack using the weight of the car the strut slide back into place. All retested and passed. On the test drive afterwards the only thing I noticed was the car was much softer over the bumps. I'll see how it behaves over the next few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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