MDG950

Mark's Mk3 Focus ST Estate

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We now have matching his and hers Focuses. The wife's Peugeot 3008 has gone and has been replaced by Mk3.5 Focus Estate 2.0 tcdi Titanium X.

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And in other news I treated mine to a clay bar and polish, the paint does look good but there are some areas where the lacquer is lifting and flaking off especially around the front bumper but also underneath the passenger side rear door window. I'm absolutely clueless when it comes to paint, i'll post some pictures and if anyone has any suggestions that would be great.

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Looks like my driveway in technicolour! My wife’s Focus isn’t an estate though, and is only a 1.5 Titanium. 

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On now to the sync 3 upgrade. Finally got hold of a sync 3 apim, screen and fascia for £150 on ebay! Deals are still out there. Small breakers are your best bet, the chap who sold mine was selling it as a sync 2 but from the photos I spotted a sync 3 apim 😁

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I'm not going to go over the installation in any detail, there are already some brilliant guides on the forum that have all the information you need. I'll just report my findings as I go. Here's what I started with.

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I've heard some grumblings about the sound quality on the sync 2/3 not being as good as the Sony sync 1 system. I think I read it is possible to run the sync 1 ACM but that will loose the traffic updates. I'll be fitting the sync 3 ACM and if it's no good I'll put the Sony ACM back in.

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The only issue so far is my car came with the reverse camera so I have the yellow fakra plug but looking on the schematics the video feed goes into the old display on pins 6 and 12 of the 12 pin connector. Looking at those pins they do indeed lead to a coax cable. For now I've hooked up the camera input to the yellow fakra. If it doesn't work I'll swap em.

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Next up were the pin swaps.

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And repurposing the wires from the aux in to transmit power to the media hub.

Next, splicing into the ms-can network.

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The twisted blue and white wires are plumbed into the ms-can pins on the 54pin connector ready to be spliced onto the purple/orange and grey/orange wires on the blue HVAC plug.

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Soldering is the only way to go, I just don't trust the scotch locks. And the finished splice with the fabric Tesa tape applied:

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Plugged in the transit sync module I had first just in case it all failed the magic smoke test 🤨 

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No smoke, just a nearly working sync 3! Then it got dark so tasks still to do:

Verify reverse camera feed

Fascia panel wiring

Tidy up wiring

Media hub wiring

Programming

Sounds like a fun day ahead 😊

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An update, I've got a 95% working system. Everything except the reverse camera is working.

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All I get is a blue screen, then a black screen and then the message telling me the camera is unavailable. I've tried changing a few settings my as built data but I don't think that's the problem. I've checked the wiring and it all looks to be ok, I'll have to have a more in depth look later on.

The wires labeled as the video feed on my schematics turned out to be the data link for the traffic updates between the ACM and the apim. I spotted the wire colours were the same when I went to do the ACM main to ACM accessory pin swaps. (Two wires in the black sleeving)IMG_20200531_121517622_HDR.thumb.jpg.0f970fe5a7180d5d62b9b1e03e23c199.jpg

I should just have followed @Luke_Anderson's spreadsheet instead of downloading the schematics and working it out for myself. The data link pin swaps were on the spreadsheet.

Additionally the front panel buttons didn't work, I had the can wires around the wrong way again caused by following fords official documentation. All sorted now.

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Last observation from me is the media hub wiring. To make life easier I removed the rear panel from the centre arm rest. I hadn't expected just how hard I had to pull to get the panel off. Photo below shows where the clips are that need persuading.

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Spliced the media hub plug onto the repurposed aux in wiring.

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Pin 1 was the 5v power and pin 4 was ground to the USB hub. Again ford schematics not much help here either.

For the USB at the apmi end I cut the old usb connector off and soldered on the correct socket from a sync 3 media hub loom from a fiesta. The media hub power plug also came from this loom.

At the media hub end I was able to unclip the old usb socket and plug a short usb to usb mini cable. Wrapping the connection in Tesa tape means it will never come apart.

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So yeah, just the camera and an update to version 3.4.

I've got bags more photos if anyone needs any pointers I'll gladly help.

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Does anyone know if anybody has converted one of the unused switches below the HVAC control panel to do the door locking?

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It looks very possible maybe if I swapped my switch covers onto a switch unit with two working switches....The door lock switch wouldn't be labelled but thats not a huge issue for me, it's got to be doable

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29 minutes ago, MDG950 said:

Does anyone know if anybody has converted one of the unused switches below the HVAC control panel to do the door locking?

Yeah @Monks600 did it. It's at the end of the "Wiring diagram required for MK3 internal central locking switch" Thread. 

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The blank to the left of the ESP switch is actually just another switch. You need to file off the plastic tabs stopping the switch moving and solder on a couple of terminals.

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Sounds like a plan, I'll look it up and give it a go. Thanks

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Reverse camera is now working. Checking the wiring I found a dead short across the video feed pins into the apim. Found the problem was in the fakra to RCA conversation lead I'd bought. Taking the fakra plug apart showed the cable hadn't been terminated properly. 

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So I chucked the pigtail and plumbed the video feed cable straight into the apim.

So the only thing I'm missing now are the red yellow green distance markers and steering angle overlay on the reverse camera image. I suspect that's a bit more fiddling with the as built data to fix that.

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Here are the photos (Not very good ones) of the lacquer issues I've got, first one is just behind the front wheel arch, in front of the drivers door:

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And some flaking just above the front grill:

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More peeling under the passenger side rear door window:

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And a random chip on the roof:

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I not really sure if it's worth spending the time and money to fix them up. I think for now I'll monitor them and make sure the peeling doesn't get any worse. The colour helps, I didn't even notice them until I got the car home. Has anyone else experienced these type of issues with their paint?

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In other news I updated my sync to version 3.4 19101. Overall I think it's an improvement but there are still some things wrong with the UI like there is not enough space to display the song title and artist anymore. Functionally however I've lost the ability to play music from playlists on the USB drive in the in correct playlist order, the songs just appear alphabetically now. The same is true if I try to play an album. This all used to work fine before the update. Also although I'll check this again I don't seem to be able to charge my phone from the USB port anymore. The phone says it's charging for 2 seconds then says its not charging for two seconds. This could well be my phone so some more debugging is required here.

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Updating to sync 3.4 19274 has solved the playlist issue and the intermittent power to the USB hub. Everything seems to work a lot better as well, android auto feels much quicker and more tightly integrated. The result, one happy bunny 😁🤨 I won't be updating my sync anymore due to the bugs reported in 20021. I've had enough of bugs for now

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New mats from logocarmats.com:

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The're a perfect fit and feel like good quality.

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Love it, just read through all of this tonight and you’ve really got stuck right in!

As someone mentioned, I used the blank button for the door locking and unlocking and I’ve even found a sticker to resemble a padlock lol. Works flawlessly.

I went to sync 2 but now wishing I just went straight to 3. Still struggling to find a decent sync 3 unit on the e of bay!

Thanks for the brill read and all the photos, nothing better than lots of photos... it’s the only reason I look at a newspaper, photos haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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It's been a while, time for an update. Both mine and the wife's cars have thrown up errors in the last few weeks. 

Plugging into the wife's car gave P2463 Particulate Filter Restriction - soot accumulation along with P242C Exhaust gas temperature circuit low bank 1.

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Luckily it was still under warranty but before we booked it in I did some more investigation. We tried a manual dpf regeneration which reduced the soot loading figures and cleared the DTC. But it didn't take long to reappear.
 
Plugging in again showed some odd readings with the DPF soot loading figures specifically the open and closed loop soot loading figures where very different. Open loop around 50-60% and closed loop around 120%. My theory was the open loop is what the car expected it's loading to be and the closed loop the loading as measured by the delta pressure sensor across the DPF. Definitely worth letting Ford take a look.
 
So the work was completed as follows:
Initial Diagnostics £75.00
Further diagnostics wouldn't complete until the exhaust temperature sensor was fixed, this turned out to be two sensors £173.40 plus £112.43 - DTC still present
DPF pressure sensor changed £46.30 - DTC still present
DPF regen fuel vapourised changed £131.37 - DTC cleared
Plus labour and VAT came to the best part of £700 but all fixed.
 
To sum up it looks like the fuel pump that provides the fuel to raise the temperature of the DPF had failed which meant the DPF wasn't regenerating correctly. The closed loop soot loading reading was correct. Not sure why the exhaust temperature sensors had failed though, possibly a failed attempt in the past to repair the issue?? Now it is working and regening again I'll check the soot loading figures just for interest.
 
Now on to my car, driving home the other night the message 'headlamp malfunction, service required' popped up on the dash and the headlights were set to point at the floor. A few minutes later it reset and all was fine. Over the next few days the message started to appear more and more frequently, interesting it tended to appear more often after turning right. 
 
Plugging into Forscan showed:
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The service manual we have doesn't appear to show the sensor so I didn't know where to look, on my Clio 197 I'd had previously (oddly had the same fault) the front sensor was on the anti roll bar right in the middle of the sub frame. Nice and easy to get to. But forscan had said front left sensor. Taking the front left wheel off and peering into the black void beyond showed nothing that looked like a level sensor. However taking off the right hand wheel revealed:
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The front left level sensor!!
I'll order up one and see if the problem goes away.
 

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So having unplugged and replugged the sensor the issue seems to have gone away. I did notice that one of the two retaining clips had broken on the harness plug. Maybe that was all it was. Fingers crossed

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Thanks @Monks600 I've never done a progress thread before, glad you're enjoying it. One question for you is do you recall where you got the padlock stickers for your switch?

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Thanks [mention=100834]Monks600[/mention] I've never done a progress thread before, glad you're enjoying it. One question for you is do you recall where you got the padlock stickers for your switch?

Let me check through my eBay account and other accounts. Honestly cannot remember, I’ll get back to you on that one matey!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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The hardships of owning this car:

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Dirty and burnt shins from the exhaust while unloading the boot.

Do other ST owners suffer the same distress?

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2 hours ago, MDG950 said:

The hardships of owning this car:

IMG_20200917_165138384.thumb.jpg.2b9e683e2b84db31166da75ab6d45ce9.jpg

Dirty and burnt shins from the exhaust while unloading the boot.

Do other ST owners suffer the same distress?

No, just you 😂 but to be fair I rarely wear shorts so not driven in them.
You must have really been reaching in there lol.

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