Hi all 

im in a bit of a pickle, I’ve tried starting my car today and there’s nothing, once I put my key in the  Immobiliser Will constantly flash then after one minute will flash the code 1 then 5 quick flashes. Last night I tried getting in to my c max and the fob didn’t work so I thought the battery had gone in my fob so I tried using the one in my focus key fob ever since then I just can’t get the ignition going in my focus ..... help 

The imoobilizer chip is embedded in the plastic key part did you do a thing to that? 

No I don’t think so just removed the battery and placed it back all in space of a few minutes 

sounds like you need a new car battery not the key battery 

My mums corsa had an issue like this where the key plastics were loose and taped together. Got a call one day about it not starting and such and it turns out after about 3 hours of messing that the chip nugget had fell put of the key when she got in the car, and was on the floor. We put it back in the key and all was good again..

Between making sure the battery is the right way around, can you see if the chip is potentially missing or where you had it apart is there a small plastic looking piece kicking about maybe?

The chip in the plastic part of the key should look like this I reckon. https://www.wish.com/product/5d897d0216dd54104b9e2530?from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=GB&_force_currency_code=GBP&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=5d897d0216dd54104b9e2530&ad_cc=GB&ad_curr=GBP&ad_price=18.00&campaign_id=8163884845&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkeatxOSf6QIVhLLVCh00qgbzEAQYAiABEgLiGPD_BwE&hide_login_modal=true&share=mobileweb It’s just pushed in there, it’s not connected to any electrical contacts or wires

Hi, the battery in the key fob is only for the remote locking, nothing to do with the transponder chip. 

I’ve charged the battery over 24 hours I’ve checked my keys and the transponder chip is still in my key fob. Once I finish work I’m going to reinstall the battery and hopefully that’s the end to the matter, I’ll keep you guys posted either way 

Hmmm. A few things to look at here..

Opt 1. Bad cluster - The solder joints dry up and crack; incredibly common and whilst not a difficult fix in the grand scheme of things, it's a fault that can kill a car until resolved.

Opt 2. Bad halo - The part around the ignition barrel where the key goes is a reader for the transponder from the key itself. If the signal is weak and you have either a second key handy or a flip key, try holding the second or flip the key I'm to be closer to the barrel and see if that helps. Not so common, but they can wear.

Opt 3. Loose connection - The rear plug on the cluster can come loose over time and especially if disturbed.. Some have experienced PATS (immobiliser) issues and have resolved with a simple reseat of the connectors to the cluster.

 

Have you got access to an ELM cable and a laptop? It might be worth checking for DTCs via ForScan.

If that's not an option for you, take a look here; this might help you out in finding a code if you can get that far..