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g1zm0

Mk3.5 fog drl

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Hi . Got these from china , but got some questions. 

(tryed to upload pictures but  kept saying -200)

They are foglamp ones that have a tick that goes from side along bottom , then 3 bars  next to it .

 

It has a black box with 3 bunches of wires .

I bunch is the battery one . It has

Black . Red with inline fuse and brown.

Then theres another 2 bunches with the socket that plugs into the drl and one has a yellow and blue wire .

But the other only has a yellow 

I know that the black is ground , red is live and the brown is switched live acc

The blue is  headlamp and yellow Is turn signal .

So I take it these are defections  as there is only one yellow for turn signal .

 

Anyone installed these 

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Do you have a link to the ones you have bought?

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If the red is live and the brown is switched live, does that not mean that the DRL will be getting a permanent live?

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Hi they are same as these ones .

 

Ebay item no 254518417384

 

On there instructions  it says brown is acc and the red  has a fuse.   That's +. 

 

 

 

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Quick tip, try the wires with a 9v battery or something that can provide power. That'll help you determine your power lines and earth. If it's the type of LED light I'm thinking of you'll have:

DRL High

DRL Low

Sequential Indicator.

So check each lead to see what it does before installing it. You'll need a multi-meter and test each pin out on the headlamp to get an idea of what wires do what.

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I have never seen one like this but as far as I know from experience. 

Red +

Black - 

Yellow (sequential to indicator) 

Blue (tapped to the headlight/sidelight) that's why only 1

But some new ones are blue acc for delay off and white to headlight/sidelight. 

That's the most basic setup. 

 

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On instructions it says that it does dim .

The wiring guide on it says 

Brown =acc

Yellow =turn signal

Blue=headlamp

Black=ground

Red=connected to b+ of car 

Maby it has one blue so when it senses the lights are on it will dim the leds

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Yes that's correct and if it says that order then it should be correct as one blue is only required when switching. 

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That's what I was going to suggest, there is only one blue wire as it is just there to tell the control unit to dim the DRL. So on that basis you could leave the blue wire disconnected and they wouldn't dim at all.

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't understand why you connect the red to a permanent live surely that would mean the lamps were lit all the time? I'm maybe over thinking it and overlooking something very obvious

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8 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

That's what I was going to suggest, there is only one blue wire as it is just there to tell the control unit to dim the DRL. So on that basis you could leave the blue wire disconnected and they wouldn't dim at all.

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't understand why you connect the red to a permanent live emoji2369.png surely that would mean the lamps were lit all the time? I'm maybe over thinking it and overlooking something very obvious

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No the power goes through the controller that determines on/off based on the power output. If the ignition is turned off the power drops to a certain level where the controller then finishes its delayed turn off. 

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So to wire these bad boys up . Blue to headlamp . Yellow to indicators.  Black to ground  of battery or chassis. 

So red to battery  and where in the fuse box will I get the acc from 

 

To clip the wires on to the  headlamp and indicator wires am I better using scotch locks 

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11 minutes ago, g1zm0 said:

So to wire these bad boys up . Blue to headlamp . Yellow to indicators.  Black to ground  of battery or chassis. 

So red to battery  and where in the fuse box will I get the acc from 

 

To clip the wires on to the  headlamp and indicator wires am I better using scotch locks 

Strip the plastic around the wire, solder it on and then wrap in electrical cloth tape if you have it or use black tape if you don't but be aware it can get messy after a few years. That'll give you the best connection. By stripping part of the wire you can determine if you have the right wire and test the lights work as expected as an added bonus. 

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No the power goes through the controller that determines on/off based on the power output. If the ignition is turned off the power drops to a certain level where the controller then finishes its delayed turn off. 
Ok, so there is power going to the controller all the time but the DRL only illuminates when both inputs (permanent and switched) are recieving power.

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12 minutes ago, Jonro2009 said:

Ok, so there is power going to the controller all the time but the DRL only illuminates when both inputs (permanent and switched) are recieving power.

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Yeh but it doesn't cause any power loss I used one for 3 and half years on my mk2. 

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38 minutes ago, Ennvoqation said:

Strip the plastic around the wire, solder it on and then wrap in electrical cloth tape if you have it or use black tape if you don't but be aware it can get messy after a few years. That'll give you the best connection. By stripping part of the wire you can determine if you have the right wire and test the lights work as expected as an added bonus. 

I didn't even solder mines they were just wrapped around the stripped wire then taped and yes they get messy and go green after a while 😂 

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If mine loses colour I will just bin them and get another set . My 15 plate doesn't come with drl so thought this would be good for the night roads aswell . I take it one should turn on when you indicate to go that way . 

Now the legality  of.it , are these ok for uk mot 

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The color I meant was the wires after a while of being taped they go mouldy. Mines passed mot every time. 

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Glad to hear  it's ok for not. I thought the snap scotch locks from screw fix would have been ok . 

What fuse should I use for acc so it goes off straight away with ignition.  85 or 86?  . 

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3 hours ago, g1zm0 said:

If mine loses colour I will just bin them and get another set . My 15 plate doesn't come with drl so thought this would be good for the night roads aswell . I take it one should turn on when you indicate to go that way . 

Now the legality  of.it , are these ok for uk mot 

Mine didn't come with DRL either so I got set and swapped out the headlights for OEM setI got from one of the guys here, just a matter of using Forscan to tell the system you're using LEDs.

 

I've also looked into getting Mustang style lights because I hate the way the indicators are hidden when the lights are on.

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2 hours ago, g1zm0 said:

Glad to hear  it's ok for not. I thought the snap scotch locks from screw fix would have been ok . 

What fuse should I use for acc so it goes off straight away with ignition.  85 or 86?  . 

Not inside but R16 in the relay box. TBH the relay is designed for a delayed turn off which is handy like guide me home lights. 

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12 hours ago, Ennvoqation said:

Mine didn't come with DRL either so I got set and swapped out the headlights for OEM setI got from one of the guys here, just a matter of using Forscan to tell the system you're using LEDs.

 

I've also looked into getting Mustang style lights because I hate the way the indicators are hidden when the lights are on.

I was going to go that route , but got told that the car needs some harness for drl to work on my zetec . Dont know if this was true 

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35 minutes ago, g1zm0 said:

I was going to go that route , but got told that the car needs some harness for drl to work on my zetec . Dont know if this was true 

Mine was straight drop in, 2015 Titanium spec Focus. All I had to do was was tell the car it had DRL lights through Forscan. They still worked without that but wouldn't hit full power until you configured the car. Took all of about 40 min to swap over. Tail lights are easier, they're just a straight swap from halogen to LED. 

Downside of the DRL headlights they're a lot more expensive to buy new and harder to find second hand, at least in good condition. 

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I dont know  If my car has the connector  on the block for the drl. Can see option on forscan 

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I don't think you will have the wiring for DRLs in the plug as they didn't come as standard. You might get lucky though and find they are in the plug and you just have to find the pins you need to power an aftermarket set. In some areas Ford put all the wiring in but don't connect it up, like the Mk5 Mondeo has the wiring for the reverse camera regardless of spec, but the mk3.5 Focus doesn't have the wiring unless you spec rear sensors.

I'm pretty sure you can get a DRL wiring kit though, one that takes a switched live feed to power them and then a feed from the headlight to dim them. I'm sure I've seen that kit somewhere, and if I haven't then I'm going to design one and patent it

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