Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


1.0 Ecoboost timing belt replacement


olei
 Share

Recommended Posts

So, has anyone done a timing belt replacement on the 1.0 Ecoboost?

I just did my 220.000km(136.000 miles) service today on my '12 Focus. On the next 240.000km(150.000 miles) service I will have to do the timing belt as well.

I would think a timing tool kit would make things a lot easier;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Ecoboost-1-0-Timing-Tool-Kit-Transit-Mondeo-Fiesta-13-17-Focus-12-18/283492717211

Does anyone know if any of the bolts needs to be replaced?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Changing the wetbelts on a 1.0 ECOboost is a major job. It will take an experienced mechanic approximately 12 to 16 Hours to perform this job the 1st time.


Changing the wetbelts basically consists of the following procedures:

Crankshaft pulley removal/installation. Crankshaft pulley.pdf

Front cover removal/installation. Engine front cover.pdf

Timing belt replacement. Timing belt.pdf
 

Changing the wetbelts requires loads of special tools. Apart from the locking tools (included in the timing tool kit from your link) you also need a 5:1 torque multiplier and mounting adapters to remove and install the (keyless) crankshaft pulley. Without this torque multiplier it is impossible to tighten the crankshaft bolt to the correct torque and angle.

5:1 Torque Multiplier Set - Crankshaft Pulley Bolt - 1.0 EcoBoost ...

5:1 Torque Multiplier Set - Crankshaft Pulley Bolt - 1.0 EcoBoost ...

The torque multiplier is a very expensive tool. The original Ford torque multiplier will cost several thousands. As an alternative the pictures above show the aftermarket AST torque multiplier kit (also sold under different brand names). This torque multiplier uses the exact same gear ratio as the original Ford torque multplier. This kit will cost approximately £800,-.

Laser tools also sells a torque multiplier and adapter kit for the 1.0 ECOboost. This torque multiplier however has a different gear ratio and comes with recalculated torque/angle values to tighten the crankshaft bolt. The laser torque multiplier and adapter kit for the 1,0 ECOboost will cost approximately £500,-.


Very few DIY mechanics will perform this job themselves because of the complexity and the costs involved for the special tools. 

 

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I happened to be browsing my Haynes manual just yesterday to see when my Mk3 is due for a belt change. It's only done around 39,000 miles but is 8 years old. The Haynes quotes replacement at 10 years. When I read through the procedure for changing it I was horrified at the complexity of the job. I wouldn't have been contemplating doing it myself anyway as advancing years means I have to delegate major work to a garage but the cost of this job must be astronomical. I'm considering whether to just get rid before it needs doing. I won't be buying another Ford if so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, mjt said:

I happened to be browsing my Haynes manual just yesterday to see when my Mk3 is due for a belt change. It's only done around 39,000 miles but is 8 years old. The Haynes quotes replacement at 10 years. When I read through the procedure for changing it I was horrified at the complexity of the job. I wouldn't have been contemplating doing it myself anyway as advancing years means I have to delegate major work to a garage but the cost of this job must be astronomical. I'm considering whether to just get rid before it needs doing. I won't be buying another Ford if so.

I really can't see many people bothering with replacement on the 1.0EB at 10 years+.

The main reason for doing it is to save expensive engine damage...but in this case it'll be cheaper to replace the engine.  I suspect most will just run them until they snap then buy another car.  In theory, a wet belt should last much longer than the dry belts which were rated for 10 years on previous engines...just don't use any oil flushes!

 

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Changing the wetbelt on a Focus MK3/MK3.5 is tight. There is not much space near the engine. On a Fiesta MK7.5 however there is even less space. Some mechanics consider it to be quicker to remove the engine from the car when changing the wetbelt on a Fiesta.

 

I suspect that in 2022 when the 1st examples of the 1,0 ECOboost become 10 Years old the market will be flooded with these cars. Many people will get rid of the car because of the high costs to have the wetbelt changed. As a result of this the prices will drop significantly.

It may be tempting to have the wetbelt  replaced by an independent local mechanic. However very few independent mechanics do not have any experience or tools to change the wetbelt of a 1.0 ECOboost correctly. 

 

My car is currently 7 Years old and I have to make the decision to sell the car while it is still worth a fair amount of money or keep the car for a few more Years. My car has a very low mileage (only 40.000 KM) and if I decide to keep it I will replace the wetbelt next Year. On cars that are often used for short trips the quality of the engine oil degrades pretty quick. When the engine oil is not changed regularly this can result in premature wetbelt failure. Ford considers driving short trips to be one of the severe conditions that require a reduced service interval.


I am currently investigating the possibility to remove/install the crankshaft pully without the use of a torque multiplier.

The original torque multiplier has a true torque multiplication ratio of 5:1  However because of the gearbox losses of the torque multiplier itself the actual gear ratio will be approximately 5.45:1 
 

Using the original torque multiplier Ford prescribes to perform the following steps:

1. Torque to 60 Nm (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
2. Stage 1  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 2  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 3  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 4  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 5  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
 

This should result in the following figures without using the torque multiplier:

1. Torque to 300 Nm (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
2. Stage 1  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 2  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 3  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 4  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 5  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).


A decent torque wrench and angle gauge should be enough to achieve this.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites


  

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

I really can't see many people bothering with replacement on the 1.0EB at 10 years+.

The main reason for doing it is to save expensive engine damage...but in this case it'll be cheaper to replace the engine.  I suspect most will just run them until they snap then buy another car.  In theory, a wet belt should last much longer than the dry belts which were rated for 10 years on previous engines...just don't use any oil flushes!

 

The problem with 1.0 ECOboost engines that are mainly used for short trips or cars that are not used for weeks is that the engine oil degrades pretty fast. This is a known symptom of the WSS-M2C948-B engine oil. Condensation inside the engine causes the additives of the engine oil to debond. This causes a sludge that can clogg the oil pump completely. Another problem is that the degraded engine oil can also deteriorate the material of the wetbelt. Wetbelt failure on 1.0 ECOboost engines that are used mainly for short trips is not uncommon.  
 

A new 1.0 ECOboost service engine from Ford will currently cost approximately €4300,- without installation. A used low mileage or refurbished 125 HP 1.0 ECOboost engine will easily sell for €2250,-.

Having the wetbelt replaced by a Ford dealer will cost approximately €1000,- to €1200,-. Some independent Ford specialists replace the wetbelt for €700,- to €850,- using the original tools and parts.


Having the wetbelt replaced is a lot cheaper than installing a new engine.


 

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, JW1982 said:

Having the wetbelt replaced is a lot cheaper than installing a new engine.

My comment was slightly tongue in cheek though I know sarcasm doesn't always work on forums lol. :smile:

However, you can easily pick up a used or 'lightly refurbished' 1.0 EB engine for under £1000 over here.  There's a worrying amount on eBay at £300 for spares and repairs though!! :laugh:

But the point still stands that the cars simply aren't worth the cost of the belt change compared to thier value.  I sold my 2013 1.0 Titanium on 50k back in 2018 for £4,500...  It'll be worth less than £3000 by it's 10th birthday.  Time you add the cost of the belt change to the rest of the service, plus tyres or brakes, you'll be looking at more than half the cars value on a service!  I certainly wouldn't pay that.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

My comment was slightly tongue in cheek though I know sarcasm doesn't always work on forums lol.

There's not much hope for me either, then!😃

Actually I think you and Wilco both make very good points and I guess the decision may be influenced by what the car is "worth" to you beyond strictly financial terms. A car that you have had from new, really like and have already invested much time, effort and money in, is going to seem a much more worthwhile candidate for a belt swap, than one you acquire second hand and possibly intend to move on in a year or two.

I suppose over a longer ownership period, the total cost of cambelt replacements is broadly the same, compared to other engines needing a couple of changes within a 10 year period, just seems a big hit on an older car! 

Oh, for the days of pushrods!

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

My comment was slightly tongue in cheek though I know sarcasm doesn't always work on forums lol. :smile:

However, you can easily pick up a used or 'lightly refurbished' 1.0 EB engine for under £1000 over here.  There's a worrying amount on eBay at £300 for spares and repairs though!! :laugh:

But the point still stands that the cars simply aren't worth the cost of the belt change compared to thier value.  I sold my 2013 1.0 Titanium on 50k back in 2018 for £4,500...  It'll be worth less than £3000 by it's 10th birthday.  Time you add the cost of the belt change to the rest of the service, plus tyres or brakes, you'll be looking at more than half the cars value on a service!  I certainly wouldn't pay that.

I guess the UK prices are completely different to the prices in Europe.

I live in the Netherlands and my 2013 1.0 ECOboost with 40.000 KM is currently valued at €11.000,- (replacement value) which is approximately £9.900,-. In the current market where car dealer desperately want to sell cars I have even had higher bids.

On the other hand a similarly specced Focus MK4 will cost me well over €35.000,-. 

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, JW1982 said:

I guess the UK prices are completely different to the prices in Europe.

I live in the Netherlands and my 2013 1.0 ECOboost with 40.000 KM is currently valued at €11.000,- (replacement value) which is approximately £9.900,-. In the current market where car dealer desperately want to sell cars I have even had higher bids.

On the other hand a similarly specced Focus MK4 will cost me well over €35.000,-. 

Wow, yeah that's at least 50% more than over here!  £5,000-£6000 is about the going rate for a low mileage 2013 1.0 model.  Which is still more than I thought tbh.

There's a 2018 Mk4 1.0 ST Line X with 25k miles for £16,000 at my local Ford dealer for comparison.  

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lots of info, great! It being time consuming doesn't bother me, so I will continue with my timing belt replacement on next service.

 

  

20 hours ago, JW1982 said:

The original torque multiplier has a true torque multiplication ratio of 5:1  However because of the gearbox losses of the torque multiplier itself the actual gear ratio will be approximately 5.45:1 
 

Using the original torque multiplier Ford prescribes to perform the following steps:

1. Torque to 60 Nm (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
2. Stage 1  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 2  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 3  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 4  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
    Stage 5  90 degrees (at the input shaft of the torque multiplier).
 

This should result in the following figures without using the torque multiplier:

1. Torque to 300 Nm (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
2. Stage 1  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 2  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 3  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 4  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).
    Stage 5  16.5 degrees (at the crankshaft pully bolt).


A decent torque wrench and angle gauge should be enough to achieve this.

I believe your crankshaft numbers are wrong. The gear ratio won't change, so the angle numbers should be 18 degrees for each step and a total of 90 degrees. It is true though that you will have a torque loss (friction) through a torque multiplier, but the gear ratio is still the same. So when using a torque wrench set at 60Nm with a 5:1 torque multiplier which in theory should be 300Nm, the actual torque on the bolt will be less (255-270Nm?).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The original torque multiplier has a torque ratio of 5:1. The documentation of this tool does not describe the actual gear ratio but based on the specifications of comparable torque multipliers with a 5:1 torque ratio the gear ratio should be approximately 5.45:1.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/items/PDF/Products/7317_Instructions_V4.pdf

Looking at this aftermarket tool, it seems you're right. 👍 9:1 gear ratio, 8 x 90 degrees + 25 degrees, total 82.7 degrees. The manual does'nt tell to torque to 60Nm before angle torque(?).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Thanks. Can this workshop manual be found anywhere online?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Hi guys, is there any more info on this topic? - especially if anyone has successfully done this work themselves? My daughter's 2012 1.0 Focus Ecoboost has broken down exhibiting very low oil pressure (with associated rattling noises) and I suspect the oil pump strainer in the sump has been blocked with belt debris (as reported on various forums).

I've seen youtube videos of a chap dropping the sump, clearing/cleaning the strainer and refitting without special tools, but most likely the belt(s) will also need replacement if they've deteriorated that much. Hopefully there will be no lasting mechanical damage as the engine idles ok and has been run minimally since the problem started.

My daughter is not in a great situation at the moment as she's only one year into a 5 year finance loan on the car, and will find it difficult logistically and financially and to get this fixed. 

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would expect not many people will have attempted to change the wet belts themselves on these mainly due to the significant cost of the tools required to get the correct torque settings. If I recall, it was upwards of £500 for the correct tools alone.

 

I cleaned out the oil pump on mine a couple of weekends back and although it wasnt a quick job, it wasn't as difficult as I was expecting. I probably made it more difficult for myself by not removing the downpipe from the turbo completely and rather tried to move the sump around it.

 

When I cleaned out the oil pump on mine, there did not look to be any rubbery bits as such in the pump and the oil pump belt appeared to ok but I will be getting the belts replaced as soon as financially viable as a precaution.

 

Edit: just noticed Wilco's post earlier on with the cost of the tools, knew I'd seen it somewhere! 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Any recommendations for which make of oil to use? Several claim to meet the Ford spec. Ford website appears to recommed Castrol for every car they make at the moment. I have  2017 1.0 Ecoboost with low mileage but unknown oil in it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any oil you use should meet spec WSS-M2C948-B and should be 5W-20. As long as it meets the spec that should be ok, I wouldn't think brand would matter too much.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

If your timing belt interval is say 100k miles or 10 years and it snaps before that time is it down to Ford to fix it ? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Alex.S said:

If your timing belt interval is say 100k miles or 10 years and it snaps before that time is it down to Ford to fix it ?

Well thats a very good question. The answer is 'I don't know'

If the car has always been fully serviced when it should have been and you can prove that then you may have a good legal case.

Speaking from experiance I once had a 2.2 Vauxhall Vectra that was due to have it's timing chain replaced at 60000 miles. The car was out of warranty, when at just a few miles over 59000 the timing chain snapped and caused major damage to the engine. I was able to prove that the car had been fully serviced by Vauxhall at 20000 & 40000 miles. The car was about 3years 7 months old and after a little bit of checking by Vauxhall Motors, the dealership was told to repair it free of charge.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share





×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership