Best rust proof paint.

[jace1969]

 

I have noticed 2 small surface rust pieces by the back wheels,its like the flat piece of the sill,i have paint same as my car but what is the best rust proofing to apply first,its 2 very small amount needed so I don't need a lot.

 

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[Eric Bloodaxe]

I've normally used Kurust in the past when touching up small areas - I think a small (90ml?) bottle is under £7. 

[Matt Alsop]

I've used Kurust too for that sort of thing and it's excellent.

[jace1969]

Cheers will get some of that and try it.
Just paint it on and leave it dry then my car paint on top.

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[Bobr]

I've used Kurust for many years.   It is very good.   If I remember rightly, you have to leave it to cure for about three hours before you paint over it.

[jace1969]

Just got some off amazon for just over £8 250ml as the 90ml is £6 so I always have it as well.
After very close inspection I can see on the drivers side very side bubbling on the lowe part of the wheel arch,its is very small at the moment.
Is it getting close for a car change??
Also next door got a Honda Jazz 09 plate so mine 2011 so 2 years older and no rust at all and she just drives it and services it at Honda,it dont get a wash more than 10 times a year and that's no joke...Amazing.


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[Luke4efc]

Vactan for me, but they all do the same thing.

[fiestaecoboostman]

All the rust treatments are great, the one's that convert rust to steel plate. Trouble is it will rust again unless you overpaint it, from a rust proof paint point of view on areas out of sight it's hard to beat Hammerite. Stops rust because it goes on so thick no air or water gets to the metal.

Many a car component has had a coat of Hammerite over the years!

[FSTA]

The brown crud that is the product of steel(iron), oxygen and water cannot be converted back into good steel. The rust treatments react with it and neutralise it but will not be successful on their own. All the rust must be physically removed. That's easier said than done!

If the metal can be got back to bright steel, then it needs to be protected from air and water. Far better to use the Hammerite before the process starts--I would be wary of any car that had structural parts overpainted with a disguise as you will not know how bad the situation was or how well the repair had been done..

[Ennvoqation]

It's always best to take area down to bare metal and repaint, I've used Jenolite and then resprayed in several stages acid etch where appropriate, under-coat, respray and then finally clear/protective coat the area. When dealing with rust you need to determine how far it's spread, which is usually further than you realise, and then you have clean metal around the area around it until you've got clean surfaces and/or replace the metal if need be. You also need to inspect and treat both sides as it usually infects both sides and other areas.

Depending on the protection/normal driving conditions or even location I'll consider under-coating the vehicle with Waxoyl./ Dinitrol, or in rare cases powder coat the parts.

As a side note, it's worth taking off the wheel arch liners to clear the crap out every so often as that's often the cause of those rotting inside out.

[fiestaecoboostman]

11 hours ago, Ennvoqation said:

It's always best to take area down to bare metal and repaint, I've used Jenolite and then resprayed in several stages acid etch where appropriate, under-coat, respray and then finally clear/protective coat the area. When dealing with rust you need to determine how far it's spread, which is usually further than you realise, and then you have clean metal around the area around it until you've got clean surfaces and/or replace the metal if need be. You also need to inspect and treat both sides as it usually infects both sides and other areas.

Depending on the protection/normal driving conditions or even location I'll consider under-coating the vehicle with Waxoyl./ Dinitrol, or in rare cases powder coat the parts.

As a side note, it's worth taking off the wheel arch liners to clear the crap out every so often as that's often the cause of those rotting inside out.

On my wife's old Ford (I bet you can guess which model from the next bit) It rotted from inside out because of crud build up around the fuel filler neck. Admittedly it took 12 years before it had to go, but a couple of hours work every couple of years would have prevented it. Easily accessible once jacked up with a wheel off and the liner out. I had a few cans of a rustkiller spray

If it did half of what it claims the car would have lasted another few years, as it was it owed us nothing. When I got my nearly new car I treated various hard to reach areas under the arches for good measure. I actually enjoy doing a job like that 🙂

[nicam49]

On my mk3 Mondeo, there's an area below the filler cap and above the wheel arch that keeps bubbling. Removing the arch liner reveals NO rust at all. The trouble is, that area is double-skinned, presumably to strengthen that part. The rust is forming between the two skins which are merely mm apart. 

[SparkEli]

Bilt Hamber have good rust protection products. I have used their Hydrate 80 which is the same type of thing as the Hammerite kurrust. They also do a primer for steel which is called Electrox. I have found Bilt Hamber products far superior to its Hammerite counterparts. I have used many different touch up primers and they all seemed to do mediocre at best. They also have other products that will be suitable.