DaSingh Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 Just had a little mess about whilst a wait for a reply but seem to have issue with the bluetooth and no voice guidence when using satnav... Can't turn volume up so it might be fine once I get the front panel to work Is it literally 2 wires that need to go to that front fascia? I think I could just do it but not sure how to connect it to the front connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 Also connected the reverse camera today although fit is good, the angle isn't quite right and facing down too much and looks terrible at night... Might have to upgrade the reverse bulb to led 🤔 Also guide lines not working 🙄 Going to have to find another, luckily this was from amazon prime so no issues with returns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monks600 Posted September 2, 2020 Share Posted September 2, 2020 Just had a little mess about whilst a wait for a reply but seem to have issue with the Bluetooth and no voice guidence when using satnav... Can't turn volume up so it might be fine once I get the front panel to work Is it literally 2 wires that need to go to that front fascia? I think I could just do it but not sure how to connect it to the front connector. You should be able to turn the volume up from the steering wheel controls I would have thought. And yes, literally 2 wires from the small screen connote to the front Facia connector Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 Found a new car to download the as built data and did the changes from foccuss built steering column controls still do not work. Unless I am doing it wrong? I did read bcm, change the values. Write to bcm, read ipc change values and write to ipc. I'm pretty good at this stuff but the instructions aren't super clear. Still waiting for reply from China. They asked for a video so that's been uploaded but honestly it's so close to being finished which is annoying lol. Need to find a USB hub as I don't think the original one will work. But not sure. I only need for Android Auto not Carplay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 Also order these https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DNB7LT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t81tFbFT4NGZM to connect the rear camera to wiper motor. Assuming I should just use the same to connect the fdcim cable to front panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 On 8/29/2020 at 2:02 PM, Monks600 said: Weird how the new harness did have a socket to insert the 4inch screen connector in to... bizarre. So, what I’d do now is pop the pins with cables still attached out of the screen connector and they should slot right in to the Facia connector, I think you may only have to split one of them onto an existing cable on the Facia connector. From memory there’s a spare socket I think for one of the pins. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Just looked at this again, pin4 to pin7 is fine it's the yellow cable but to pin5 to pin4 is is the spare socket I don't have any pins to put in there so would I need to order some or is there another way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 2, 2020 Author Share Posted September 2, 2020 Does anyone know what color pin4 is from the fdcim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monks600 Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 Sorry on the delayed response. With pin 4 on the FDCIM connector, i simply popped this out and unravelled the tape to give me more play and expose the wire. Then spliced that on to pin 7. I did the same for pin 5 to pin 4 except this time, i revealed more of the cable and this allowed me to route and push the pin into the blank slont on the front panel connector. So in short, 4 to 7 requires a splice and 5 to 4 you are literally removing the full pin and cable and then placing it in the blank slot on the front panel connector. Also, regarding the steering wheel controls, i honestly think its the harness you've purchased. It just worked straight away for me but i did the 'dirty method' and manually pin swapped and spliced without a harness. Obviously your method allows you to go back to sync 1 relatively easy but the original method mentioned and used in the stickied forum post is sort of permanent... unless we reversed all the pins swaps and splices made lol Hope this helps! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mollymoodoo Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 There's some great info in here that makes me more confident to do this. One question, how are you splicing? Are you managing to get two wires into one pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 4, 2020 Author Share Posted September 4, 2020 Thnaks got the reply mate, not in any rush as the seller as requested a few days to investigate... Il give it until mid next week before requesting refund and return the item back to China. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monks600 Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 3 minutes ago, Mollymoodoo said: There's some great info in here that makes me more confident to do this. One question, how are you splicing? Are you managing to get two wires into one pin? Few ways you can do it really - What ever works for you! 1. Remove a bit of the plastic on the wire itself to exspose the copper wire and then solder on to there to get a secure connection then wrap with a bit of electrical tape to ensure no shorts. (Most reliable method and secure, i did this) 2. Remove plastic on the wire and then wrap the other wire arround it tightly then secure with eletrical tape. 3. Scotchlocks (can never spell it right lol) - Not a fan of this method as they have to be the correct size and sometimes don't cut in to the cable all the way and can come loose down the line if not tight enough and not the correct size for the guage of wire being used. Although, quite a lot of people do have good success with them but then on the other hand the amount of times i've seen people with stuff not working with scotchlocks being used is quite high also 🙂 What ever is easiest for you really! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monks600 Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 8 minutes ago, DaSingh said: Thnaks got the reply mate, not in any rush as the seller as requested a few days to investigate... Il give it until mid next week before requesting refund and return the item back to China. No worries at all! Works hectic at the moment so don't really have chance to jump on the forums as much as i do lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mollymoodoo Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 18 minutes ago, Monks600 said: Few ways you can do it really - What ever works for you! 1. Remove a bit of the plastic on the wire itself to exspose the copper wire and then solder on to there to get a secure connection then wrap with a bit of electrical tape to ensure no shorts. (Most reliable method and secure, i did this) 2. Remove plastic on the wire and then wrap the other wire arround it tightly then secure with eletrical tape. 3. Scotchlocks (can never spell it right lol) - Not a fan of this method as they have to be the correct size and sometimes don't cut in to the cable all the way and can come loose down the line if not tight enough and not the correct size for the guage of wire being used. Although, quite a lot of people do have good success with them but then on the other hand the amount of times i've seen people with stuff not working with scotchlocks being used is quite high also 🙂 What ever is easiest for you really! That's good to know. When I worked retrofitting cameras onto buses we always used method one but pulled the pin out and got some heatshrink on there, obviously it was a lot easier on buses rather than trying to do it in a car 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monks600 Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 Here’s a harness I made for a friend a while back to do a sync 2 or sync 3 upgrade.Just swapped the pins around on the harness and only had to splice a few cables.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monks600 Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 That's good to know. When I worked retrofitting cameras onto buses we always used method one but pulled the pin out and got some heatshrink on there, obviously it was a lot easier on buses rather than trying to do it in a car [emoji846]Hahah brill! Yeah heat-shrink tubing is Brilliant stuff, I love it! Sometimes you can get away without solder and just wrap the wire around then heat shrink over it and it’s really tight! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mollymoodoo Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 Yeah I'll have a look when I do it, I do like a nice solder though 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 11, 2020 Author Share Posted September 11, 2020 Quick update, return has been approved and will be getting full amount back. Just need to pack it all up and go down to post office. This leaves me with 2 options, either sell the sync3 and put my old one back in Or find a kind person on here who can help me out with modifying the original cables 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monks600 Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Quick update, return has been approved and will be getting full amount back. Just need to pack it all up and go down to post office. This leaves me with 2 options, either sell the sync3 and put my old one back in Or find a kind person on here who can help me out with modifying the original cables [emoji6]Stick sync 3 in, buy a un-made harness and swap the pins over on the harness and then it’s 90% plug and play. Well worth it. Familiarise yourself with the guide already on the forum. You may have to splice or route about 5 cables. So easy :)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 24, 2020 Author Share Posted September 24, 2020 So after returning the cable I bought first I got another one advertised as Option b from a different seller. I checked with the seller first and sent loads of photos over and they confirmed it's correct cable. It has the connector for the front panel which plugs into the fdcim connector. However not quite sure what these yellow and green cables with the pins are. I tried connecting them together green to yellow as one is male and the other is female but nothing. Contacted seller should get a reply tomorrow. Until then I decided to update to SYNC 3.4 latest version with latest F9 maps. Oh the steering column controls work fine now too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 All sorted they sent a quick diagram where the pins go. All of working and fitted. Just have small issue with sync 3.4 screen gone dim when car is on. Also randomly get navigation fault when I turn on so not sure if the GPS antenna is bit slow to start. Just need to see if the original USB hub work with android auto don't fancy buying a new one and don't need Carplay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 Just for reference this fixed the dim screen Just need to do PAM firmware update and that should be it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mollymoodoo Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 23 hours ago, DaSingh said: So after returning the cable I bought first I got another one advertised as Option b from a different seller. I checked with the seller first and sent loads of photos over and they confirmed it's correct cable. It has the connector for the front panel which plugs into the fdcim connector. However not quite sure what these yellow and green cables with the pins are. I tried connecting them together green to yellow as one is male and the other is female but nothing. Contacted seller should get a reply tomorrow. Until then I decided to update to SYNC 3.4 latest version with latest F9 maps. Oh the steering column controls work fine now too. Where did you get the cable from dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 Aliexpress 4" TO 8" PNP Conversion Power Harness Set for Ford SYNC 1 2 to SYNC 3 Upgrade Harness Wire https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNHC4TZ It's not cheap but cheaper than buying from the US and it actually came quick the standard free shipping. I know a lot of guys have done it using the guides on here but I couldn't get my head around it and couldn't find anyone including to autosparks locally to do it. Another one who was a mobile car audio specialist flat out refused and said it can't be done blah blah and only Ford could do it even when I sent him the link on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Botus Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 wow a 40 quid harness for 180.... at least its working and you didn't carve up the cars wiring ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaSingh Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 1 minute ago, Botus said: wow a 40 quid harness for 180.... at least its working and you didn't carve up the cars wiring ... It was just over £150 with customs fee... Easy to say £40 harness but no one selling em and time and labour for someone to help would probably be much more. Either way I'm happy, could have bought a pioneer or alpine screen but wheres the fun in that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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