1.4 tdci mk6.5 engine problems + breakdown

[The_Imaginative_Lad]

Hey,

I've made a thread previously about issues I've had with this car, since then its mostly been fixed and its just the clutch that hasn't been touched and is still a bit slippy. 

Joining the M1 today the car triggered into limp, lost all power and sounded really rough. The part I've manage to recover from the dash cam shows me leaving the m1 and finding a safe place to pull over, if there was a hard shoulder I would've stopped asap. You can hear the engine does not sound right, also apologies for higher revs than I should have but that's the slippy clutch.

So initially I thought the engine had blown up, but the AA turned up who reset the management system and cleaned out a butterfly valve which was clogged up on the left of the tdci logo under the bonnet. After this the car ran perfectly, but still recommends I get it checked out even though the vehicle is ok to use. I was sent a bunch of information and codes which I'll share here from his professional ecu reader. 

Any information about what to check or replace would be appreciated. 

[BP2411]

Do you have your own fault reader to see if any codes have come back? Sometimes codes can come back without any indication on the dash. I've recently had ridiculous problems with my 2009 1.4 tdci, half the codes didn't trigger any dash notifications. I have a cheap eBay bluetooth adapter which doesn't do half as much as the forscan stuff I have, I have a USB cable & a WiFi reader, I keep the WiFi reader in my car and it pairs with my phone (ideal for when I'm out & about, saves me carrying a laptop). For forscan you need a modified elm327 cable, I bought both wired & wifi versions from tunnel rat as have many others. 

[BP2411]

https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/

Personally I find my WiFi one does 99% of what I need it for but considering you can buy both wired & WiFi versions for less than a garage would charge for a single scan even if you buy both you'll save yourself a fortune. 

[The_Imaginative_Lad]

I have forscan and a BBFly with HSCan switch but it doesn't bring up the same amount of codes the AA managed to bring up with a Bosch systems reader. Issue being, I've never had this issue before of it feeling like I've popped an injector or something. The AA reset it, cleaned out a butterfly valve and it runs sweet again, although I'm worried it will happen again. Just wondered if anyone has experience with this combination of codes posted above and what they did to rectify it. I'm at a point of thinking, next pay day part ex it against a new car

[BP2411]

Did you get your injectors sorted, just seen your last thread.  Have you forscanned it to see if any codes have come back? You should see my last thread, I was close to burning my car all the faults it had and ended up fixing it for £10 😂

[TomsFocus]

11 hours ago, The_Imaginative_Lad said:

I have forscan and a BBFly with HSCan switch but it doesn't bring up the same amount of codes the AA managed to bring up with a Bosch systems reader. Issue being, I've never had this issue before of it feeling like I've popped an injector or something. The AA reset it, cleaned out a butterfly valve and it runs sweet again, although I'm worried it will happen again. Just wondered if anyone has experience with this combination of codes posted above and what they did to rectify it. I'm at a point of thinking, next pay day part ex it against a new car

Forscan should pick up more codes than a generic reader.  The Mk6's don't always like Forscan though, some of them will read once and then not read properly a second time (just says something like 'couldn't complete systems readiness').  I haven't found any way around that other than driving them and trying again later.

I confess, I've never heard of the BBFly, I wonder if they're as good as the Tunnelrats?  (Mines not a Tunnelrat either in fairness lol).  Is it the laptop version of the phone app that you use?

You have no idea how long those faults have been on the system, they aren't necessarily all triggered at the same time.  All you can do is keep an eye on it and see if any come back now.

 

[The_Imaginative_Lad]

17 hours ago, BP2411 said:

Did you get your injectors sorted, just seen your last thread.  Have you forscanned it to see if any codes have come back? You should see my last thread, I was close to burning my car all the faults it had and ended up fixing it for £10 😂

Good shout for a Fuel Rail Pressure sensor. This is the second time I've had the frp throw a code, which never seems to show on Forscan (windows edition) but rather on a snap on or Bosch system. Where abouts is this sensor located? Is it cleanable or just dead? Maybe @TomsFocus has some experience with this part?

[The_Imaginative_Lad]

15 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Forscan should pick up more codes than a generic reader.  The Mk6's don't always like Forscan though, some of them will read once and then not read properly a second time (just says something like 'couldn't complete systems readiness').  I haven't found any way around that other than driving them and trying again later.

I confess, I've never heard of the BBFly, I wonder if they're as good as the Tunnelrats?  (Mines not a Tunnelrat either in fairness lol).  Is it the laptop version of the phone app that you use?

You have no idea how long those faults have been on the system, they aren't necessarily all triggered at the same time.  All you can do is keep an eye on it and see if any come back now.

 

When I ordered the BBfly I literally searched for OBD Ford HS switch and it was the first one to show on amazon. It does show more in-depth data and can access all modules, and can reset not only the engine management light but also the drivetrain cog to take it out of limp mode. Just so happened that when I broke down I didn't have my laptop with me so had to call AA out for recovery. 

BBfly was also able to access other features in forscan, such as enabling stuff the car didn't have but now does have. I found a thread somewhere which explained how "As built" data worked and provided a huge excel sheet of codes and what they enabled and which ones would brick the unit depending on the spec of the car, etc. Basically just went through picking out what I wanted, most just dashboard stuff. The most useless item I enabled was dashboard clock but I can't set the time on it as I don't have a factory radio (I assume that's what it would need to set time), unless I reset the battery at mid night or something lol

 

Edit I know I'm sidetracking here, but like this clock. Nobody explains how to set it (image attached to message from YouTube as I'm not going out at 1am to take a picture of the dash lol). Although not important compared to the other problems of the car lol

 

Edited September 11, 2020 by The_Imaginative_Lad

[BP2411]

FRP on my car atleast (2009 1.4 tdci) is in a ridiculous location, luckily I didn't need to change the sensor (apparently you're not supposed to split the sensor from the rail but they sell the sensor seperately) just the wiring but even that was a nightmare, my loom was injectors, glow plugs & frp.  Glow plugs & injectors was easy as the car was already in bits but FRP still haunts my dreams now. I had to remove the battery & headlight just to unclip the plug and even with them out of the way it took ages with a mirror & long skinny screwdriver. I'd be tempted to check the loom connection as that's what was wrong with mine. 

[TomsFocus]

8 hours ago, The_Imaginative_Lad said:

When I ordered the BBfly I literally searched for OBD Ford HS switch and it was the first one to show on Amazon. It does show more in-depth data and can access all modules, and can reset not only the engine management light but also the drivetrain cog to take it out of limp mode. Just so happened that when I broke down I didn't have my laptop with me so had to call AA out for recovery. 

BBfly was also able to access other features in forscan, such as enabling stuff the car didn't have but now does have. I found a thread somewhere which explained how "As built" data worked and provided a huge excel sheet of codes and what they enabled and which ones would brick the unit depending on the spec of the car, etc. Basically just went through picking out what I wanted, most just dashboard stuff. The most useless item I enabled was dashboard clock but I can't set the time on it as I don't have a factory radio (I assume that's what it would need to set time), unless I reset the battery at mid night or something lol

 

Edit I know I'm sidetracking here, but like this clock. Nobody explains how to set it (image attached to message from YouTube as I'm not going out at 1am to take a picture of the dash lol). Although not important compared to the other problems of the car lol

 

I don't think there is any way to adjust the time without an original headunit.  Reconnecting the battery at midnight isn't a bad idea though...shame it's 24hr otherwise you could have done it at midday instead!   When I got the ST I changed the previous owners 'tasteful' dash and single DIN unit for original items...gave me the radio name and the clock back on the dash!  I take it you don't have the original HU that you could refit just to set the time?  

[TomsFocus]

8 hours ago, The_Imaginative_Lad said:

Good shout for a Fuel Rail Pressure sensor. This is the second time I've had the frp throw a code, which never seems to show on Forscan (windows edition) but rather on a snap on or Bosch system. Where abouts is this sensor located? Is it cleanable or just dead? Maybe @TomsFocus has some experience with this part?

Low fuel pressure codes are usually caused by a clogged filter or an engine cut-out on these, the sensors themselves aren't that common.  Which is lucky as they're a right pain to reach as Ben said!  Tucked well down the back of the engine...  

[The_Imaginative_Lad]

Apologies for the later reply. @TomsFocus The fuel filter was replaced in the last 5k miles, I don't know about an engine cut-out (if you could show me where that is to check it out). 

I stripped back most items all the way to the rocker cover Sat. Checked to see if it blown any injector seals, but all is clean in there. Cleaned out EGR, blanked it. Alot of problems arose from actually unblanking it, it was blanked when I purchased the car and passed an MOT like that so assume its fine to place it back again. Also annoying since I've replaced the EGR not too long ago.

Cleaned out the doser valve (I think that's what it is called), the small box after the TDCI logo from the turbo but unlike the AA guy I took it apart and cleaned out stuff that had worked its way into the housing then greased it. 

My laptop has stopped working, so using the android version of forscan on my radio which seems to work just fine. Purchased the license so I can reset them (see attachments) 

I'm still sceptical about replacing the fuel lines and sensor as I can't find any at a reasonable price, I keep consulting my haynes manual but still can't locate where the frp is actually located. (the back of the engine??)

 

edit:

I'll add this too, probably give you some kind of an idea the conditions in which triggered the original limp from the first post in this thread. Around 3.6/3.7k rpm. Always gotta give these engines a kicking to actually get anywhere 

 

[TomsFocus]

I meant engine cut-out as in stalling, rather than a cut-off switch.  The diesels don't have a cut-off switch as you say.

The fuel rail sensor is on the end of the fuel rail at the battery end of the engine.  If you follow the hard injector pipes back you'll find the rail, then follow that across to the right hand end.  You can use a mirror or just feel your way back, I don't think there's access on the Mk6 to actually see it!

[The_Imaginative_Lad]

15 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

I meant engine cut-out as in stalling, rather than a cut-off switch.  The diesels don't have a cut-off switch as you say.

The fuel rail sensor is on the end of the fuel rail at the battery end of the engine.  If you follow the hard injector pipes back you'll find the rail, then follow that across to the right hand end.  You can use a mirror or just feel your way back, I don't think there's access on the Mk6 to actually see it!

Cheers will take a look when possible

[BP2411]

Did you check the multi plug, as I was having all sorts of codes thrown up and it ended up being that. 

[The_Imaginative_Lad]

On 9/15/2020 at 7:32 AM, BP2411 said:

Did you check the multi plug, as I was having all sorts of codes thrown up and it ended up being that. 

Checked the multiplug, sprayed contact cleaner on it, there was some corrosion on the connector. Also pulled the connector for the fuel rail sensor and sprayed that. Gonna see what it's like on the road and report back.

[The_Imaginative_Lad]

So been a little while. Car has been running without a hitch, only one code which keeps coming back. I haven't thrashed it, but I have driven it harder than usual. I suppose the previous breakdown left me a little shaken up and I don't want a repeat of that. I did however take it right to the limiter but only in 1st and no issues, just a huge cloud of smoke oops 😅

This is the code;

 

I have invested in a USB-C to USB adaptor, seems more stable on my mobile than the radio unit. I have reset this multiple times. It doesn't come on if I take a short drive to the shops, but if I take it out on a motorway run or anywhere where I hold speed for a while then it'll reappear. It does say malfunction indicator is on, but nothing is showing on the dashboard and there isn't any indication of the moment this code is logged when driving.

I've physically checked the boost sensor (I assume it is the one located mounted to the top left of the air filter housing). I've cleaned the connectors, and sprayed cleaner in the unit but nothing makes a difference to the code being logged.

 

Quick edit: Forget to mention that I tracked a sensor cable with a red plug on the end, the cable itself had deteriorated and was grounding. I wrapped this up, and zip tied it back away from anything. The engine has since ran alot smoother, feels like it has taken 50k miles off the engine lol. I will probably want to invest in a new loom, it has the injectors and glow plugs also attached to it. Even just idling there is a huge improvement: 

 

Edited September 23, 2020 by The_Imaginative_Lad
added video