Fuel delivery problem (not HPFP)

[jsondergaard]

Hi nicam, I've already removed the glow plug relay, and as previously mentioned I get 300-320 RPM when cranking, with fuel pressures around 25-35.000 kPa. And I've posted scans from ForScan when cranking a bit longer up in the thread.

I've just tried doing a compression test.

My results from two tests:
- cylinder one: 11/11 bar
- cylinder two: 7/5 bar
- cylinder three: 11,5/10 bar
- cylinder four: 14/14 bar

The figures aren't great, and getting some of the results were kind of difficult. Even though everything was tight, with no leaks, sometimes I couldn't get a reading. Seemed totally at random when I could or couldn't get a reading. I got the readings by removing all glow plugs, and used a compression tester with screw-on adapters for the glow plug holes. Glow plugs were also smothered in a mixture of oil and fuel. Any idea as to why is greatly appreciated, however I still think the results are correct.

Since the engine has done 220.525 miles, I'm thinking of throwing in a new engine instead of getting the current one rebuilt. Does anyone know if this is possible with only a jack with a lifting height of 467mm (so probably engine out from the top)? Everything I've seen has used a two-post lift.

[nicam49]

Hi, would you consider trying a new cylinder head instead. A bit strange cylinder #2 is as low as that. But doesn't explain why it doesn't fire

[nicam49]

 have you  had the rocker cover off to check if there's any damaged/cracked rocker assemblies? 

[jsondergaard]

With the miles it has done, I'd rather do an engine swap than a new head. However, I still need to do some digging, to see if there's any rocker damage as you mentioned. However, the compression on all cylinders seem low, right? I would expect at least 20 bar from a diesel normally

[jsondergaard]

Alright, I've finally figured it out.

The exhaust camshaft pulley has had it tooth sheared, messing up the timing - but only slightly. This caused all eight exhaust valves to crack their rocker arms. Two hydraulic lifters were also damaged. This was also causing periodically low fuel pressure, and low compression. I'll order the parts this weekend, including a new timing belt+waterpump and cam chain, but I have a couple of questions:

1. Would it be best to change all rockers and/or lifters, or is it fine to just change the damaged ones?
2. Why would the camshaft pulley shear its tooth? All was moving freely, belt was fine, and I asked the previous owner if it's been over-rev'ed, but it hasn't (or so he says, anyway)
3. Even though it's an interference engine, I'm expecting the valve rockers to have done their job, and cracking when valve contacted the piston. But should I bother taking the whole cylinder head off and checking for bent valves?
4. Is there anything other than the crankshaft bolt, injector washers, and camshaft oil gasket, that should be changed after being dismantled?

I'll attach some pictures of the damage.

As an aside; how come this thread has 52k views? It's more than the pinned threads on here. Seems insane, but hey y'all 😅

[nicam49]

The one thing I can think causes this sort of damage is driving through a flood the water being sucked into the intake and as it doesn't compress, all sorts of damage occurs.... sometimes even the conrods get bent. The only way to check that is to remove the head and see if all the pistons rise to the correct height. If Tom here can't advise, then try that other forum you've been on. I remember reading that someone sent for 2nd hand replacement conrods from a breakers yard.... and they were also bent!, so not an uncommon problem. 

52k+ views?.... You're famous! 

[jsondergaard]

Hi nicam, wouldn't that ruin the piston rings as well then? I've tried doing a leak-down test, and it came back ok with percentages well below 20%, and since everything moves and sounds as normal, I'm thinking of replacing the pulley, rockers, and tappets, and see if that works. If it doesn't, I'll remove the head and inspect further. Would you agree with my logic?

Thanks for your input!

[nicam49]

Well, why not try? If it runs but you get white smoke you'll know you've prob got valve and/or conrod issues to deal with. Hope you got it REALLY cheap!     BTW, have you got a boroscope? Just wondering what the piston tops look like.... 🤔 

[jsondergaard]

Alright, I've changed all the broken pieces, and it runs fine. However, when I rev the engine, it dies and gives a white puff of smoke. ForScan tells me the fuel pressure tanks when I rev it, or sometimes at random (attached screenshot), and I can see air bubbles in the return line – so I still have some work. Does anybody know if any of the fuel pipes are especially known for breaking, or if there's any way to check them? I'm thinking I might start by replacing the fuel filter housing, although it looked fine.

Also, I noticed some exhaust from the EGR cooler where it connects to the exhaust manifold, and when I went to tighten the bolts, one of them snapped. Don't know how the hell I'm going to get the rest of the threaded stud out, or if it's even possible. Welding a bolt on the stud? I've tried a locking clamp, but doesn't want to budge. I might be able to drill it out if I remove the cowl, but I'm not sure.

The stud is listed as a replaceable part at Ford (part number 1308236), but I can't find any for sale.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

[nicam49]

Hi, if that stud had a Finis code, then try a Ford main dealer parts dept. They can order anything in from Ford's parts warehouse (or check online if its available) also they can check if the part has been superceded.. Just remembered! Sandicliffe Ford main dealer has an excellent parts dept that you can phone, and they do or did post stuff out too. 

[jsondergaard]

Cheers nicam. I went to my local main dealer today, and I've ordered the studs and a clamp, since I'm probably going to have to break it in order to get the EGR cooler off. God awful position! I'm still not sure what's the best way to get the old stud out. I kind of want to weld a bolt to the stud, so I can avoid having to remove a lot of stuff, again.

Also tried starting the car again today, which took a while. Furthers the point that it's air ingress in the fuel system, I guess. Especially since it started with little trouble yesterday. I tried pressurising the fuel tank, but there weren't any obvious leaks. Going to try and replace the o-rings in the quick connects, then the fuel filter housing if that doesn't work. And fuel lines last - I hope that won't be necessary, though.

[nicam49]

How about doing another compression test? That white smoke isn't normal.... 🤔 

[jsondergaard]

I’ve just attributed the white smoke to the rail losing some of its pressure when an air bubble comes through, causing the diesel not to be atomized properly, thus being unable to burn. Am I wrong in thinking that?

The engine sounds healthy enough, and it only produces the white smoke when it dies from fuel starvation 🧐

[nicam49]

It's not right, can you easily perform another compression test while you're waiting on these parts from Ford... is the engine ticking over but dies when you rev it... is that it now? btw what's the state of the air filter? 

[jsondergaard]

I wouldn't say it's easy to do a compression test on these engines, since I need to do it via the holes for the glow plugs, which are tucked away behind the EGR/EGR cooler. I'm getting the parts tomorrow, and I've removed the old studs today (welded the nut to the stud), so it's ready for refitting. Also found a small fuel leak from the drain plug on the filter housing, which is now fixed – hopefully fixing the air ingress completely, couldn't test it though, since battery was almost dead. Got it charging until tomorrow.

Since it's only blowing smoke when starved of fuel, and otherwise is fine, I'm not sure about it being low compression (because it was running for 3-4 minutes at idle with no smoke at all), but if there's any hint of smoke when I've fixed the air ingress, I'll do a compression test again to be sure. Air filter was changed 10k km ago, but I've blown it through, so should be good

Also did a quick Google search, which returned "low pressure in the fuel pump can also lead to white exhaust smoke. This mainly comes when air or other things get into the fuel line.", which matches what happens here 🧐

[jsondergaard]

I'm happy to report the car is running again. I bought a new HPFP and fitted it, and it is now drivable, although not great. The actuator on the turbo is stuck open, so I'll need to check the vacuum pipes and/or the actuator itself. Shouldn't be that bad of a job, though it is hard to reach.

Also got some DTCs from the ABS module, U0401 (invalid data received) and U0100 (lost communication). BCMii also reports B1108 (driver door central locking; motor seems to have trouble moving sometimes – I've read cleaning and giving it some grease should fix it, though). Don't know much about the ABS DTCs, so I'll have to do some research.

 

So, to summarise:
- low compression caused by all eight exhaust valve rockers being broken. Cause unknown, but perhaps the old owner used too much easy start, or metal fatigue in the camshaft pulley.
- Thereafter a new HPFP since the old one couldn't keep the required pressure.

 

Still some work needed to bring it back to its former glory, but the bulk of it is done. Really glad I got it dirt cheap, though.

 

Thanks everyone!

[nicam49]

thanks for the update! Good to hear all your graft looks like it's paying off.