TomsFocus Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 This is what I mean by the folding wheel brace. The socket folds out of one side. The 'tongue' for wheel trims the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobr Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 6 minutes ago, Chainsawcharlie said: Thanks Tom, I've been looking at the electronic version of the handbook, but it didn't mention the wheel trim remover, guess because it is vignale which had the spare wheel as an option, and it has alloys It's on Page 188 Steve. Top of the page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 3 minutes ago, Bobr said: It's on Page 188 Steve. Top of the page. Thanks Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 3 minutes ago, Bobr said: It's on Page 188 Steve. Top of the page. Don't forget Steve's is a Mk8. Mk7s had the rigid wheel brace which fitted on top of the wheel, along with the jack. Mk8s moved the jack under the wheel, using the folding wheel brace to secure it. It's a pretty clever system...but I can't help wondering how strong a folding socket can actually be... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 1 minute ago, TomsFocus said: Don't forget Steve's is a Mk8. Mk7s had the rigid wheel brace which fitted on top of the wheel, along with the jack. Mk8s moved the jack under the wheel, using the folding wheel brace to secure it. It's a pretty clever system...but I can't help wondering how strong a folding socket can actually be... Thanks Tom, yes following your reply that will explain the lip I saw on the wheel brace, and thinking about it now the little space in that polystyrene is bit small for a wheel trim tool You're right I think although the jack and wheelbase are a clever compact design, I wouldn't like to trust how robust it will be when undoing gas driven gun tightened wheel nuts I dug out my cross brace I bought about 30 years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st line x 140 driver Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 Thats why its a waste of time having a spare wheel nowadays if the wheel nuts/threads haven't had cooper slip applied and or removed in the past year the only way to get the nuts/bolts out are with a wheel brace and then with the force you would have to apply car would probably fall off the jack and damage sill. so would have to carry a trolley jack as well for safety. As well as the force you would need to get ali wheel off of steel discs. I had this problem on a mondeo could get the wheel nuts out but wheel was still seized on rear discs. If i kicked the wheel the car would of fallen off Jack. Best solution is to have relay they have proper tools and can even tow you to a garage to get tyre replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobr Posted October 24, 2020 Share Posted October 24, 2020 I always carry an extendable wheel brace. Never had a problem getting a wheel off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 13 hours ago, st line x 140 driver said: the only way to get the nuts/bolts out are with a wheel brace and then with the force you would have to apply car would probably fall off the jack and damage sill. It's best to loosen the nuts before jacking the car up. Makes it much easier as the wheel can't turn at all with the weight of the car on it and of course can't fall off a jack if it's not on one. I do agree with with the wheels being seized to the hub though. Mine haven't been off for two and a half years... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomshepp Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 I usually spray inside the wheel where it contacts the hub before each winter with Plus Gas. Copaslip is the wrong stuff to use here because it promotes corrosion but a smear of grease if the wheel is off doesn't do any harm. A 24" breaker bar with a good six sided socket is the best tool of all, though for removing but tighten using the factory wheelbrace to avoid overdoing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobr Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 This is what I use. £10.99 from amazon. Something else that was in the car when it was stolen.😠 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st line x 140 driver Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 2 hours ago, TomsFocus said: It's best to loosen the nuts before jacking the car up. Makes it much easier as the wheel can't turn at all with the weight of the car on it and of course can't fall off a jack if it's not on one. I do agree with with the wheels being seized to the hub though. Mine haven't been off for two and a half years... Standard procedure not to jack car up first and to have hand break on - you don't want to take the car for a stroll down the road with your wheel brace lol 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st line x 140 driver Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 2 hours ago, tomshepp said: I usually spray inside the wheel where it contacts the hub before each winter with Plus Gas. Copaslip is the wrong stuff to use here because it promotes corrosion but a smear of grease if the wheel is off doesn't do any harm. A 24" breaker bar with a good six sided socket is the best tool of all, though for removing but tighten using the factory wheelbrace to avoid overdoing it. i thought copper and aluminium = brass that must be a very corrosive material lol copper grease and steel bolts are commonly used together for torquing cylinder heads down too think you will get no corrosion between these surface even submersed in water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobr Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Brass is copper and zinc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st line x 140 driver Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Alloy of copper and zinc. Commonly contains lead. May include iron, manganese, aluminum, silicon, or other elements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom44 Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 18 hours ago, TomsFocus said: This is what I mean by the folding wheel brace. The socket folds out of one side. The 'tongue' for wheel trims the other. I think what we have concluded here is, we have all bought expensive cars with alloys that obviously don't have wheel trims so no one has the wheel trim removal tool hence the spot for the Gherkin 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobr Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 9 minutes ago, Tom44 said: I think what we have concluded here is, we have all bought expensive cars with alloys that obviously don't have wheel trims so no one has the wheel trim removal tool hence the spot for the Gherkin 🤣 All 4 Fiestas that I've had have had alloy wheels. In fact, I can't remember the last car that didn't. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom44 Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 2 minutes ago, Bobr said: All 4 Fiestas that I've had have had alloy wheels. In fact, I can't remember the last car that didn't. Just looking at fords website out of interest, even the "trend" lowest spec model of the MK8 has "16" 8-SPOKE ALLOY WHEEL ROCK METALLIC" and i don't see an option to spec steels so must all be alloys now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Out of the 40+ cars I've owned, I think only 3 have had steel wheels. 2x 106s and a 306. Oddly, I still see plenty of wheel trims at the side of the road, despite few actually being fitted to cars these days. Just to clarify, the trim removal tool is part of the wheel brace on the Mk8, there's not a separate tool for it. So we're still no closer to finding out whatever fits in the gherkin spot yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 13 out of the 25 cars I've owned had trims but last 4 cars were alloys . Obviously I've gone up in the world in recent years with better specs. 😂 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomshepp Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 Never put copper and aluminium together with steel. It forms two corrosion cells. If you don' t understand the electrochemistry, then fine but don' t make a twerp of yourself by laughing at those who do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st line x 140 driver Posted October 25, 2020 Share Posted October 25, 2020 38 minutes ago, tomshepp said: Never put copper and aluminium together with steel. It forms two corrosion cells. If you don' t understand the electrochemistry, then fine but don' t make a twerp of yourself by laughing at those who do Brass is manufactured from copper aluminium and zinc among other composites if you read the thread. I certainly wasn't laughing just stating fact. Im talking about copper slip you would be surprised where they put it even on Steel shims and calipers between brake pads to stop squealing. Insert other media Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiestaecoboostman Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 Interesting meandering thread. Bit of a copaslip fan myself. Never had corrosion on my wheels and I keep cars up to 10 years. Theory of Molyslip Lubrication In use, Molyslip products form a lubricating layer of Molybdenum Disulphide on metal surfaces in the following manner. The Molybdenum Disulphide molecules arrange themselves into plates with a laminar structure in which each molybdenum atom is sandwiched between two sulphur atoms. The sulphur atoms are attracted to metal and therefore become plated or bonded on to each of the adjacent bearing surfaces. In between these two platings further layers of molecules form. The sulphur-to-metal bonding is very strong, but the sulphur-to-sulphur bonding between adjacent molecules is very weak. Thus, there are two bearing surfaces, each protectively plated by a layer of Molybdenum Disulphide molecules with sliding or lubricating layers of molecules in between. In this way direct contact of metal-to-metal surfaces is prevented, friction is considerably reduced, with the consequent elimination of local heating, wear is inhibited and protection achieved even under extreme conditions of pressure and temperature. The molecular thickness of Molybdenum Disulphide is such that there are approximately 40,000 lubricating or cleavage planes in an MoS2 film one thousandth of an inch thick! The Molybdenum Disulphide plating is, in effect, a separating layer of immense strength, greater than the yield stress of most metals...and in addition it possesses the low coefficient of friction of ·03 to ·06 which gives more efficient lubrication combined with this greater protection. However ... Back to topic ... The space is forward planning because the new powerplant in development requires a flux capacitor service tool that fits in the space. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st line x 140 driver Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 48 minutes ago, fiestaecoboostman said: Interesting meandering thread. Bit of a copaslip fan myself. Never had corrosion on my wheels and I keep cars up to 10 years. Theory of Molyslip Lubrication In use, Molyslip products form a lubricating layer of Molybdenum Disulphide on metal surfaces in the following manner. The Molybdenum Disulphide molecules arrange themselves into plates with a laminar structure in which each molybdenum atom is sandwiched between two sulphur atoms. The sulphur atoms are attracted to metal and therefore become plated or bonded on to each of the adjacent bearing surfaces. In between these two platings further layers of molecules form. The sulphur-to-metal bonding is very strong, but the sulphur-to-sulphur bonding between adjacent molecules is very weak. Thus, there are two bearing surfaces, each protectively plated by a layer of Molybdenum Disulphide molecules with sliding or lubricating layers of molecules in between. In this way direct contact of metal-to-metal surfaces is prevented, friction is considerably reduced, with the consequent elimination of local heating, wear is inhibited and protection achieved even under extreme conditions of pressure and temperature. The molecular thickness of Molybdenum Disulphide is such that there are approximately 40,000 lubricating or cleavage planes in an MoS2 film one thousandth of an inch thick! The Molybdenum Disulphide plating is, in effect, a separating layer of immense strength, greater than the yield stress of most metals...and in addition it possesses the low coefficient of friction of ·03 to ·06 which gives more efficient lubrication combined with this greater protection. However ... Back to topic ... The space is forward planning because the new powerplant in development requires a flux capacitor service tool that fits in the space. didn't realize they made them that small nowadays 👌 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st line x 140 driver Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 On 10/23/2020 at 3:44 PM, Chainsawcharlie said: I know this sounds like a quiz 🙂 On my used Fiesta 2019 Vignale that has spacesaver wheel I noticed this on top off the sparewheel with a supposedly missing item next to the white shewee....ahem I mean funnel 🙂 could it be the locking wheel nut found in my glove compartment ? But surely the slot in the polystyrene is too big for that. UFO - UNIDENTIFIED FORD OBJECT 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anon Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 Brass may contain minute traces of Aluminium (or lead, manganese or even arsenic) but these constituents are not considered part of the alloy which is copper and zinc. Aluminium being the less noble metal in a mixture of copper and steel will disappear very quickly indeed. Why do you think the wheels are hard to take off the hubs? Molybdenum is a very interesting element, its by product Technetium being a dairy product as any nuclear scientist will tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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