Ford Fusion Alternator or Smart charge problems

[Oggy_Oggy]

 

I have a Ford Fusion 1.4 Petrol   2006 and recently i have had an issue with some erratic voltages followed by warning lamps on the dash and electrical problems with the indicators, wipers and speedo.

I have done a little research into the problem, along with using an OBD scanner to highlight any fault codes. I have decided to replace the alternator as i believe the voltage regulator could be at fault. So whilst i am waiting for this to arrive i was wondering if anyone had had similar issues.

I did read up about the ford smart charge system and some have issues with the plug that connects to the alternator causing the smart charge to malfunction.

I just hope that the over voltage has not damaged other components, computers etc.

Below i have made a copy of the fault code findings with a OBD scanner tool

 

Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Ford
VIN: WF0UXXGAJU5K35970

============1==============
P0030
Raw code: 0030
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Pending
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction
============2==============
P0500
Raw code: 0500
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle
OBDII: Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) - circuit malfunction
Ford: Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction; VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR "A"
============3==============
P1794
Raw code: 1794
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request
OBDII: battery Voltage Circuit Malfunction
Ford: battery Voltage Circuit Malfunction
============4==============
P0626
Raw code: 0626
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request
OBDII: Alternator field terminal - circuit high
============5==============
P1632
Raw code: 1632
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request
OBDII: Smart Alternator Faults Sensor/Circuit Malfunction
Ford: Smart Alternator Faults Sensor/Circuit Malfunction
============6==============
P0620
Raw code: 0620
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Test has not been completed, Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request
OBDII: Alternator, control - circuit malfunction
Ford: Generator Control Circuit Malfunction
============7==============
P0030
Raw code: 0030
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request, Validated fault has been present during this drive cycle
OBDII: Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) 1, bank 1, heater control - circuit malfunction
============8==============
U0140
Raw code: C140
ECU: Dashboard[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory
OBDII: Data bus, body control module (BCM) - no communication
============9==============
U2200
Raw code: E200
ECU: Dashboard[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory
============10==============
U2197
Raw code: E197
ECU: Dashboard[Archive (inactive)]
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory

 

[Oggy_Oggy]

Update

I have changed the alternator this morning. I cleared all of the fault codes before starting the engine again. All of the voltage issue codes have disappeared but I still have the codes that relates to the smart charging and the alternator control. 

The battery warning light has reappeared on the dash.

The alternator is giving a nice consistent voltage around 14

I now suspect that this is an issue with the smart charge wiring that goes into the alternator. Or a faulty new alternator.

Has anyone had any dealings with the smart charge wiring?

[tlo]

How did you get on with this ? i have the same prob ,changed the battery and the alternator but the battery light will not go out . I brought a new plug for the smart charging system ,fingers crossed that might do the trick

[Oggy_Oggy]

 

On 12/14/2020 at 10:00 AM, tlo said:

How did you get on with this ? i have the same prob ,changed the battery and the alternator but the battery light will not go out . I brought a new plug for the smart charging system ,fingers crossed that might do the trick

Sorry for the late reply

I used a kit to crimp in a new plug for the alternator. All faults now cleared.

The kit I used for the plug is 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323380035468

The kit was very well made and put together and had brilliant communication with the seller 

You will need some crimp pliers, cable strippers and a heat gun for a clean and easy job. 

[fullwavebridge]

Thanks for the info Oggy.

Interesting issue, do you suspect your alternator wasn't at fault after all ?

I do have a slight issue with my 2005 1.4tdci, at times alternator charge voltage is 14.2v, but when monitored with voltmeter, at 15 seconds intervals it drops for a second down to 12v, there is a slight change in idling and then loops back to normal. I suspect mine is a failing regulator in alternator - but if mine uses same connector then it may be worth a look.

[tlo]

I changed my plug that fits in to the alternator and the light still stayed on , my alternator is a recon one from eBay that is supposed to be able to handle 120 amp instead of the normal 80amp . Looks like that is faulty as well😔

[fullwavebridge]

Eventually got back to this issue, mine was caused by the 3 pin control plug on alternator being corroded, there should be 12v on one of the pins with the ignition on but car not running.

Mine had nothing measured, linked back to (fuse 28) behind glovebox - 3.5a open circuit. Caused by the bad connection. replaced connector, cleaned up pins on alternator plug - has restored voltage to 14.2v

Note, if you replace the plug and the fuse is blown, the battery warning light will now illuminate on the instrument cluster. Mine didn't do this initially with the old connector as it was so badly corroded it was open circuit.

I was initially thinking alternator was at fault, and was preparing for an awkward and pricey job.....

I purchased via eBay the prewired plug, i would have prefered to buy the pico crimps and repair it that way but was unable to find them at the time (the seller i found was on holiday for 2 weeks).

Now onto EAC fail, as the car is in limp mode, i was thinking that the low voltage may have been causing it or be related to it but appears not to be.

Just a coincidence that the eac fault occurred whilst i had the charging fault so a bit of a red herring.

Narrowed it down, checked pedal, and now suspect MAF sensor. the pedal does operate on revs whilst car is static.

My obd scanner is about to be replaced as it is too old now, replacement MAF sensor is on route and will try this when it arrives.

[tlo]

Just a quick update on this mine had a prob with the wiring to the ecu iirc the wire had broken , so had that fixed and no more battery light .... came back with a broken front spring tho . You could not write this 😄