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Rough start in cold, glow plugs are all reading 1.6ohms


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Hi all

I've got a bit of a problem, in the cold my 1.8tdci 04 really struggles to start, the glow plugs lamp only comes on for a second or so then goes out, it takes a while of chugging and turning to get it started. In summer O have no issues at all.

I've checked the plugs in place and are all reading 1.6 ohms. Could it be the relay?

if so where is it?

Many thanks in advance.

 

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1 hour ago, Pappazulu said:

Hi all

I've got a bit of a problem, in the cold my 1.8tdci 04 really struggles to start, the glow plugs lamp only comes on for a second or so then goes out, it takes a while of chugging and turning to get it started. In summer O have no issues at all.

I've checked the plugs in place and are all reading 1.6 ohms. Could it be the relay?

if so where is it?

Many thanks in advance.

 

I have the same issue.I was thinking of replacing the glow plugs but being in situ for 17 years the opinion was to leave them alone.I always make sure the battery is fully charged.At the moment I try to only start the car when outside is above 6 degrees.Not perfect i know 👍

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Thanks, I have no choice about the temp and starting, work is work and all that. The plugs look new, as in, no corrosion around, and the ohms are in range. I'll test the temp sensor and relay and see where we're at after. 

If you're thinking if removing the plugs at some point, let them have a nice warm bath in wd40 or your preferred soak. Overnight is good.

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5 hours ago, Pappazulu said:

Hi all

I've got a bit of a problem, in the cold my 1.8tdci 04 really struggles to start, the glow plugs lamp only comes on for a second or so then goes out, it takes a while of chugging and turning to get it started. In summer O have no issues at all.

I've checked the plugs in place and are all reading 1.6 ohms. Could it be the relay?

if so where is it?

Many thanks in advance.

 

if you have continuity it seems like they are good.
Have you put a meter on each glow plug to see if you are getting power to each one and how long for .

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16 minutes ago, Pappazulu said:

I'll do that next, thanks for the tip. I suspect the battery might be wrong though, I've figured out its a AGM battery and everything I read points to Focuses' needing a Calcium battery.

Any thoughts?

This is the Original 👍

6D635248-7575-4F26-88D2-2AA60836F167.jpeg

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2 minutes ago, Robhonda said:

The cca and Ah rating  looks very good, how old is the battery , have you fully charged the battery and load tested it . 

This battery is not in my car now👍

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5 minutes ago, williamweb said:

This battery is not in my car now👍

As long as you have a battery with the  recommended cca and Ah it should be fine . It might be worth getting it checked to see if it’s holding charge ,  if you suspect it cranking over slow 

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Just now, Robhonda said:

As long as you have a battery with the  recommended cca and Ah it should be fine . It might be worth getting it checked to see if it’s holding charge ,  if you suspect it cranking over slow 

You have me confused with the OP ha ha.My battery is fine I said it’s always fully charged if you read my first post👍

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35 minutes ago, williamweb said:

This battery is not in my car now👍

Ah, there's your issue!  It's gonna struggle to start with the battery out of the car. :wink:

 

For both of you, how old are the fuel filters?  Diesel waxes in colder temps so a clogged filter can become more of a restriction in winter.

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This is the battery in mine at the moment, its the one that came with the car when I bought it. There's weird stuff going on too, like the doors locking randomly and the boot light glowing bright then low... I've heard that if the battery is charging incorrectly then the altenator could fry the battery

Is it true that I need a calcium battery for the focus? 

20210114_195249.jpg

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1 minute ago, Pappazulu said:

This is the battery in mine at the moment, its the one that came with the car when I bought it. There's weird stuff going on too, like the doors locking randomly and the boot light glowing bright then low... I've heard that if the battery is charging incorrectly then the altenator could fry the battery? 

Is it true that I need a calcium battery for the focus? 

20210114_195249.jpg

Look at the photo in my post👍

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3 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Ah, there's your issue!  It's gonna struggle to start with the battery out of the car. :wink:

 

For both of you, how old are the fuel filters?  Diesel waxes in colder temps so a clogged filter can become more of a restriction in winter.

I change mine quite regularly.However thanks for the tip,might be worth considering 👍

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I plumb for a new battery and see how we get on... is it possible that the numpty who sold me the car could've put the wrong plugs in I.e. element too short? and if so would this make starting rough? The plug light only come on for a second or so, which on a cold morning seems a little short.

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3 minutes ago, Pappazulu said:

I plumb for a new battery and see how we get on... is it possible that the numpty who sold me the car could've put the wrong plugs in I.e. element too short? and if so would this make starting rough? The plug light only come on for a second or so, which on a cold morning seems a little short.

My light stays on for about 3 or 4 seconds.My advice is go to Ford and get the correct battery fitted as seen in my photo👍

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8 minutes ago, williamweb said:

I change mine quite regularly.However thanks for the tip,might be worth considering 👍

 

10 minutes ago, williamweb said:

Look at the photo in my post👍

 

11 minutes ago, williamweb said:

Look at the photo in my post👍

It sounds like you might have a problem with the rectifier in the alternator overcharging . It should charge between about 13.5 and 14.5 if it jumps over 15.00 it will overcharge the battery and could damage other electrical components on the car

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3 minutes ago, Robhonda said:

 

 

It sounds like you might have a problem with the rectifier in the alternator overcharging . It should charge between about 13.5 and 14.5 if it jumps over 15.00 it will overcharge the battery and could damage other electrical components on the car

Like I said my battery is fine ha ha 👍

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56 minutes ago, williamweb said:

You have me confused with the OP ha ha.My battery is fine I said it’s always fully charged if you read my first post👍

Lol , I think I’ve got two conversations going on, I’m confused now. I think I’ve lost the original thread 

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1 minute ago, Robhonda said:

Lol , I think I’ve got two conversations going on, I’m confused now. I think I’ve lost the original thread 

Yep 👍

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Hi Pappazulu, the glowplug light on the dash doesn't indicate that the glowplugs are heating up! When you turn on the ignition, it acts as a self test indicator and when it goes out it shows that the self test (of the car's various systems, NOT of the glowplugs!) has passed OK. Nothing to do with the glowplugs at all. (I know, I know) your best bet is to check that the glowplug fuse is good, ie hasn't blown. Then if you can, wire up a 12volt bulb in a bulb holder to test  that the glowplugs are getting power by  connecting it to the glowplug rail and battery negative or chassis. On my Mondeo, when I turn the key, the glowplugs get power for 30 seconds, tho' the glowplug dash light stays on for a second, as I said before, that 'glowplug' light  on the dash isn't anything to do with the  actual glowplug pre-heating period at all. 

Just thought: to test that the glowplugs are good, you have to disconnect them all and test each one seperately for continuity... you can have just 1 or 2  glowplugs burnt out and you'd have lumpy starting, but if you're only testing the lot connected together in parallel that won't show that 1 or 2 are burnt out..... know what I'm trying to explain? 

If you want to know the location of the fuse and relay, then let me introduce you the fordwiki

https://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php/Fuse_%26_Relay_Information_-_Mk4

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13 hours ago, Robhonda said:

It sounds like you might have a problem with the rectifier in the alternator overcharging . It should charge between about 13.5 and 14.5 if it jumps over 15.00 it will overcharge the battery and could damage other electrical components on the car

Fords have SmartCharge since about 2000, the alternator can increase output safely up to 16v for more efficient charging of a cold battery.  This is the reason for needing a silver calcium battery over a standard lead acid.

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1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

Fords have SmartCharge since about 2000, the alternator can increase output safely up to 16v for more efficient charging of a cold battery.  This is the reason for needing a silver calcium battery over a standard lead acid.

Interesting.My voltmeter maximum reading when charging has been 14.7 v👍

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1 hour ago, williamweb said:

Interesting.My voltmeter maximum reading when charging has been 14.7 v👍

Set it to record just before a cold start and you should see it over 15v briefly.  It's a pretty clever system and takes ambient temp, coolant temp, battery charge and load to decide how long to raise the voltage for. 

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