bratchus Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Hello, Sorry, I think I posted this initially in the wrong bit if the forum (Technical Knowledge). I recently had the wet belt on my 1.8TDCi fail with sheared teeth and I'm currently in the process of fixing it. As of right now I have removed the wet belt to confirm it has indeed failed, and most of the engine surroundings have been removed in anticipation of removing the cylinder head to check for damage to valves and pistons. The good news is that the cam shaft is completely fine, but I still need to check the valves etc before I carry on. Thework is made a little more difficult as it's outside in rainy Wales. There's a few things I'm uncertain on: 1. Removing the cylinder head is proving a pain. The main bolts are absolutely solid. Also, the area around the manifolds has been difficult to work in. Is it easier to leave the manifolds on the cylinder head when removing and disconnect lower down instead? 2. Does anyone have a guide for setting the timing on this engine for both the wet belt AND upper belt? There are numerous timing kits available but I have heard the Fuel Pump on the wet belt needs timing set too. Thanks! J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicam49 Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 If you take the rocker cover off, are the rocker cradles OK? check all the bolts are tight, any loose ones indicate a cracked cradle. If you don't get any responses here, it's not that we're ignoring you it's just that we haven't got anything constructive to say... try asking on the Talkford.com forum too... there's lots of hands-on experience on there...... Good luck! 👍 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratchus Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 Thanks for the advice. Cradles all OK. Took camshaft out and it seems to be fine. Got the head off and valves out now, they're destroyed. Bad news also is that two of the pistons are cracked, it's going to be a pain in the butt. I've bought an engine crane and engine stand and will just have the engine out now and do a full rebuild as cheaply as I can. The car has 175k miles so it's not worth doing everything perfectly, just enough to keep it running. Still better than buying another car. With replacement (second hand) pistons, new valves, seals, timing belts upper and lower, tensioners, water pump and gaskets it'll be costing about £250-300 if I shop around. Still cheaper than a replacement engine plus I'd probably want to replace all the belts and water pump on that too. Just need to get a timing guide so that it's able to run afterwards! Haha. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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