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Rust remover or converter?


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Has anyone  had any success with a particular brand of rust removers or converters with their vehicle parts. I ask because I want to de-rust some calipers and give them a coat of paint after and with past experience have found that the paint came out a little grubby due to the rust remover that was used (it didn't do a great job).

Is rust remover better than a converter, or vice versa? 

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Hi I have all ways used a wire brush and a drill with wire brush ends to get in the creases to get the rust off and brake cleaner so it nice and clean and the paint will go on great hope this will help you 

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The best way to clean up calipers at home is just wire brush and sandpaper.  I doubt they'll be that rusty you need to use chemicals to remove the rust. Usually you need to bathe the part in a tub full of the rust remover for a couple hours to actually do a good job anyway. This would mean stripping the caliper down fully and removing the slide boots, piston and piston dust boot.

In terms of a rust converter, I've used the Vactan stuff in the past which works pretty well.

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41 minutes ago, Luke4efc said:

This would mean stripping the caliper down fully and removing the slide boots, piston and piston dust boot.

Thanks for your input Luke, I do fully intend on removing pistons, seals etc and will be doing a full restoration with the repair kit I got from ebay. Didn't think the prices listed for the reman service were fair, would have been cheaper to buy brand new, so decided to do the job myself. It will give me some thing to do for a few hours at least.😛

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Hi mate this is the front caliper off my honda and it still like it after 6 years that just with wire brush and time lol I want to do the focus when the weather gets better 

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That is the condition after 6 years, well blimmin hell mate you did a cracking job.

I must confess though I have bought a rust converter and some brake cleaner, I do have some wire brushes too so will more than likely use it all. If I can get away with using just the brush I will take the de-ruster back.

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Yes mate I used a drill too with wire ends and just kept working on it till it right back and the brake cleaner with degrease it then so the paint will stick well to it and I used a brushed too if that any help to you or anyone else on here 

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6 minutes ago, Dai59 said:

Yes mate I used a drill too with wire ends and just kept working on it till it right back and the brake cleaner with degrease it then so the paint will stick well to it and I used a brushed too if that any help to you or anyone else on here 

Unfortunately I don’t have the wire drill attachment, I have those heavy duty flap things that are made from sand paper that attach to a grinder, I also have those purple discs that look like scourers, they completely obliterate the surface lol, so probably won’t be using that.

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I have been working on the calipers with a wires brush and rust remover. First off to do the brushing manually really takes effort, even with about 7 coatings of rust remover there is still some surface rust. It is quite annoying the amount of time that has been spent and still rust visible. I have conceded and ordered wire brush drill attachments and will get them on the go as soon as they arrive. 
 

image.thumb.jpg.f8f4e7742157b518e0c963498232c532.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.806d715fd2197171cfb199576aadd361.jpg

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You don't need a rust remover for that, they're pretty clean.

If it was me I'd say that's clean enough and slap some paint on them (especially if you're going for black or silver that won't be glossy).

You're never going to get them perfect, ideally you'd sand blast them. They're only cast, hence why you've all the pitting on the surface. You'd need a rotary tool to get it perfectly flat or spend hours sanding then.

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On 2/4/2021 at 7:11 PM, Luke4efc said:

You don't need a rust remover for that, they're pretty clean.

If it was me I'd say that's clean enough and slap some paint on them (especially if you're going for black or silver that won't be glossy).

You're never going to get them perfect, ideally you'd sand blast them. They're only cast, hence why you've all the pitting on the surface. You'd need a rotary tool to get it perfectly flat or spend hours sanding then.

this was them before, the pics above were after the rust remover treatment.

BeforeIMG_2246.thumb.JPG.2815b99a7b6fef9c15281c8c04068a3f.JPG AfterIMG_2247.thumb.JPG.44e3b5bc73f5cd1c48fb919d950aec82.JPG

I didn't want them totally flat at all Luke and knew it was not possible without some heavy duty work done on them. I wanted mostly all of the rust gone so the paint stayed good and no rust creeped up from underneath that i may have missed. 

I got the wire brush attachments today from amazon, and although it took a while to sort out I managed to get them down to bare metal with only hints of surface rust in a few harder to reach places. I eventually used the wire brushes with my hammer drill as cordless just didn't have the welly to get it done. Had to fight to keep the power drill in place and now I'm aching all over. Had a good days graft to get them nice and shiny.

Exhausted wire brush

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Wire drill attachments

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Sparkling clean

IMG_2262.thumb.JPG.b20ac8d5612a187a1632421891283d52.JPGIMG_2263.thumb.JPG.8cff9192e07433145fc6b387e212954d.JPG 

IMG_2261.thumb.JPG.8f9784a17e05ccaebf53495a04b29c3f.JPGIMG_2264.thumb.JPG.a256ae3c4f8632c5b51e64db2736b779.JPG

Since wiring the heck out of the calipers, I have painted them with hammerite Kurust which is a rust converter that makes any last bits of rust left into paintable surface, it also acts as a primer so no need to prime either, killed two birds with one stone.

Kurust treated-blue

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4 hours ago, Dai59 said:

Wow you done a good job i no it time consuming. so how did it go with the drill and wire brush ends go ?

Thanks for the kind words. Actually it didn't go too bad. Got caught up with the wheels a few times, when my baggy clothes got tangled, you have to be very, very careful.

Took a while still to get them finished, and had to fight to keep the drill where I wanted it to be as the resistance from the wires was intense. Ended up very good, very worthwhile spending the time. Need to paint them and re-seal and add pistons.

Have the rear set of callipers, carriers and hubs to finish. Have done the hubs but have the calipers and carriers soaking in a bath with different rust remover product. Will get the wire attachments on those probably after too.

7525FEE4-5BA7-42F8-B083-408AE9226E1C.thumb.jpeg.4bfc246a06640d1b39cdc07b46c345a5.jpeg61F32823-6ACC-415D-8EE7-307AD8073D68.thumb.jpeg.a5441e29690dfa237998a765390a943a.jpegA2AFCF0C-A75C-43D7-8D81-81ABF3C0ED95.thumb.jpeg.019ed8db99fa96d67e3f2fec120bf394.jpeg
 

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Glad to see they are looking great now and I believe the preparation is important so the more work you put into  them they will last longer and a better end result ,if you had a vice it would be a bit easier and I no it jumps when you doing it lol I have probably done about 1000 callipers if you had 4 pot calliper you can put a logo on them too .hope it go well for you today mate

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3 hours ago, Dai59 said:

Glad to see they are looking great now and I believe the preparation is important so the more work you put into  them they will last longer and a better end result ,if you had a vice it would be a bit easier and I no it jumps when you doing it lol I have probably done about 1000 callipers if you had 4 pot calliper you can put a logo on them too .hope it go well for you today mate

I saw some nice four pots but they came with a brake kit, which was extortionately expensive, plus the brand was supposed to have issues. There were others that were even more expensive, ludicrously so. Would have cost about 4 to 5 times more than I paid for front and rear setup, and that was for the front end callipers, carriers and discs only!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so I had finished soaking the rear calipers in the evaoprust around a week ago and have since wire brushed them, cleaned them up and painted them with Hammerite Kurust rust convertor.

It seems the evaoprust was quite effective at removing the rust, leaving the metal grey in colour, which needed cleaning up. There was still a few spots of heavy-ish rust that was quite thick but it was probably because it was quite thick, and the solution couldn't penetrate it. I would recommend the evaoporust just because it wasn't necessarily expensive and it is a dip and leave solution to rust removal. Evaporust is also very good on the environment, it is non toxic, water soluble and non acidic, so there are now fumes etc or burns to the skin, you can dip your hand in it and not have to worry too much about how it will affect the skin.

I have used Kurust before and found it to be a good option to convert any small amounts of surface rust to paintable metal. I used these methods as it was slightly less work involved to get the job done, it may have not been so necessary to use the Kurust but I used it because it is double action and can be used as a surface primer before painting as well as a rust convertor.

After The Soak

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Drill Wire Brush Attachment Finished

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The end peices did not need much work, they came out shiny straight from the evaporust bath.IMG_2582.thumb.JPG.d5300a493c2e0dd3578ccda273661393.JPG

Kursut Treatment Done

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Hubs were de-greased and I used a poly scrubber, drill attachment, to clean rust surfacing, then Kurusted.

Finally painted them with Hammerite underbody seal, with waxoyl, which not only has the consistency, and colour of boot polish but it also smells like boot polish too.

 IMG_2726.thumb.JPG.20b90ed18c130f69b67f38868c370256.JPG

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