High amps parasitic battery drain 2009 focus 1.6 tdci

[Marty...]

Just to say this is a replacement GEM everything is working apart from the remote locking function it needs some files saving from the original GEM and loading to the newer one

Thanks

Marty

[Tizer]

1 hour ago, Marty... said:

Do I just connect forscan to the car and start the engine to read the PID's selected

If you google how to read live data with FORScan, or something similar, then you should be directed to some useful information. You then need to spend some time taking it all in until you are confident enough to connect to the car and find what you need.  

[Marty...]

Thankyou for your input @Tizer I am swatting up on videos,visual works better for me in learning.

Marty

[Tdci-Peter]

On 6/6/2021 at 6:24 PM, Marty... said:

I also have noise that sounds like a compressor shutting down happened once driving and on switch off.Possible split hose?

Do I just connect forscan to the car and start the engine to read the PID's selected

A split air hose makes a whooshing or hissing noise while the turbo is running hard, with a substantial boost pressure. There should be no boost pressure at idle, or even when cruising under light load, etc. So it would not happen at switch off. Various valves, and the radiator fan if running, will make noises on switch off.

To connect Forscan to the car only needs the ignition to be on, and PIDs can be set-up and read before the engine is running. Temperature readings etc should be valid with engine off, and other readings like rpm can be read, but will be zero. I have run Forscan all through an engine start-up, seeing how readings change during the start, so it is quite flexible.

James (jeebowhite) has done a nice, basic guide:
https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=58645

I recall you read some very high un-wanted current draw, and the Aux (or PTC) heater will certainly do that. It is fairly simple bit of kit, just a resistor with a built in switching transistor. It gets a main battery supply from fuse F5 (the one you have removed), a control 12v supply from the GEM via F100, and a PWM signal from the GEM to activate it. There is no specific sensor for it, I geuss the GEM uses the ambient air temp (Ice) sensor, maybe the coolant temperature, and the heater setting on the controls to activate it when needed, and will only ever do so (intentionally) while the engine is running and enough power is available from the alternator. If it is coming on with the ignition off, the fault must be in the heater itself, F100 is not powered with ignition off. If it comes on with ignition on but engine not running, or when engine & cabin are up to temperature, then the fault could either be in the heater, or in the PWM signal driver in the GEM. But either way, removing F5 should fix it. It is not an essential item, it just warms the cabin up quicker in cold weather when the engine is also cold. Efficient Diesel engines take a long time to warm up.

I doubt if there is any link between the EGR error code and the Aux heater. It does not warm up the engine, or have any direct effect on it. It sounds like a clogged or sticking EGR valve, a common problem. EGR valves often rattle or buzz on ignition off, mine does a test and cleaning cycle on each switch off, but mine is a 1.8.

[Marty...]

Thanks @Tdci-Peter for your help,I have had forscan connected to the car and this revealed the p1402 dtc which I cleared before another run round the block which brought it back again,I am currently absorbing the information from this video https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=how+to+read+live+data+forscan&iax=videos&ia=videos&iai=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DugUb4PmXsw8 

I feel more confident after a few views.

My egr self tests after switch of confirmed by putting a drum stick on it and listening.

I believe the cdpf has something to do with the noise like a compressor as I can see oil deposited on the turbo from back pressure,as my knowledge is still limited this might not be the case,I have a photo of the turbo here.

I have had a chat with the local garage chap who will look it over for me on Wednesday with no cost.Good man.

He will connect his scanning equipment and ascertain the state of the cdpf and associated sensors and possibly a static regeneration.I have read these cars will only regenerate if sufficient fuel is available,is half a tank enough if this is the case?

I do so much appreciate the help I have recieved from the posts in this thread and also other threads on the site like jeebowhite have kindly taken the time to put together for the benefit of us all.Your own knowledge of cars makes you a professor in my eyes.

Thanks again

I will keep this thread updated.

👍

[Tdci-Peter]

59 minutes ago, Marty... said:

these cars will only regenerate if sufficient fuel is available,is half a tank enough

A regen is only 5 to 15 minutes, quarter of a tank should be plenty. More possibly a problem is that a regen will not happen if there are existing significant engine related faults. The EGR and the EGR throttle valve are used in the regen, and the P1402 DTC may be enough to prevent it. You have already said that it returns almost as soon as it is cleared, so it seems a permanent fault. But it will be a useful test to try it.

I would clean the oil off, and then monitor it to see if it returned. But even tiny leakage from air hose joints can cause oily residue, I have had these, There is always some oil in the air intake system due to the oil blown out of the crankcase ventilation system, which all goes into the air intake between the air filter and the turbo. These tiny leaks have no impact on performance, nor any other effect except making a mess.

[Tizer]

The other thing that makes a noise when switching off is the Throttle Valve, which is situated just before the inlet manifold. It should fully close then cycle on/off several times to shake the crud off.

You can monitor the DPF with FORScan. There is a PID for Differential Pressure in the PCM. On an older car you should be looking for less than 0.5 at Idle, a lot less than 5 during steady cruising and if it get as high as 15 under load then you are in trouble. I'm not sure if you can see the Implied Soot Load on that model, there was no PID on the later MK 2.5's.

You can also do  a DPF Regeneration with FORScan and half a tank of fuel is more than enough. If your Differential Pressure readings are ok then don't because it should only be done if it is necessary, so much so that most manufacturers will not allow a car to do one if the DPF is too clogged because the heat build up could set the car on fire or do a lot of damage. If you do decide to do one then  make sure the engine is warm first and your Laptop is fully charged because it can tale up to half an hour on some cars. 

I agree with Peter about leaving the fuse off, the Heater is a convenience that you can do without. From memory it should only be active when the outside temperature is less than about 9 and the coolant is less than 60, and should switch off when one of these temperatures reaches a certain point or you turn the Heater down to 0 or the Fan off. 

[Marty...]

On 6/7/2021 at 9:51 PM, Tizer said:

 or you turn the Heater down to 0 or the Fan off. 

I need to check this out as I think the heater was at 0.🙄

The garage chap had a look today,the MOT is due very shortly so he did the MOT whilst the car was with him,it failed needing  some welding on the sill nearside rear,washer pump not working and two tyres I knew about,front number plate degraded and left hand wiper not working,it passed emissions test.Has advised to remove egr and clean and test actuator.

He has given me some work painting the mot bay as payment for Mot and sorting the car £250,I can do the work over a couple of Sundays.Good man.

Car will be back with me Friday.

Once the car is back with me I will replace the 80a fuse and adjust the heater and see if the battery drain is persisting.

I will report back.

Thanks

Marty

[Tizer]

If you get another years running for £250 and a couple of Sundays them that seems like a good deal.

The Supplemental Heater should not work at all at this time of year because the ambient temperature is in double figures, that is irrespective of where any of the other controls are set. The problem could be a Module fault, a wiring fault or a fault with the heater itself. Unfortunately a lot of the dash may need to come off the get to it.

If the EGR does need replaced then it should be replaced with one from the original equipment supplier because there are so many reports of people fitting cheap aftermarket ones that do not work. They are not cheap though.    

[Marty...]

Thanks @Tizer The pandemic/lockdown/s have sadly taken a few people I did odd jobs for,I would rather have those people around than the supplemental income they provided,I will find some work and save up for another vehicle once things improve.

This thread informed me of the egr issue.

https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/81628-strange-egr-problems-mk25-16-tdci/page/2/#comments