1 hour ago, Waggy said:

Did you lock up and wait 20 minutes to take the reading so everything's had chance to go to sleep? It wants to get down below 30 mA I would have thought to be "normal

basicly i just connected the + only after opening the bonet and attached the multimeter was told to set to 10a so thats how i got the readings 

 

the multi meter that i use        and the display with no key in car 

 

1 hour ago, Luke4efc said:

Place the multimeter on the windscreen so you can see it inside the car. Then remove a fuse, see if the number drops, if not put it back and remove another one. Keep doing this till the current drops off.

tryed to do it wind keeps blowing the meter down i got someone helping me tomoz so wont have that problem 

1 hour ago, James Good said:

basicly i just connected the + only after opening the bonet and attached the multimeter was told to set to 10a so thats how i got the readings 

the multi meter that i use        and the display with no key in car 

 

You'll need to get the instructions out, but not sure you're doing it right. Correct to start off on the 10A range just in case. Does this mean leads between COM and 10A and pointer to 10A dc? The accuracy on that range is +/- 3%, so +/- 300mA, not accurate enough to measure current draw, not really accurate enough to determine if it's ok to move on to the 200mA range. To get the meter to read mA do the leads have to be changed between COM and mA and the pointer to 200mA or whatever? Are you trying to change the pointer to mA but leaving the leads in the 10A socket? Check the instructions, but first job is to establish a fairly accurate measure of current draw once everything's settled down. This meter is not really up to the job, so you'll perhaps have to take a punt on whether the current really is below 200mA before moving onto this range, or whether to leave it on the 10A range and just look for when the reading changes as you pull the fuses.

well i done the pulling out fuse method and after doing it twice it looks like the radio its an aftermarket radio i had for 2 years and about 2 mths ago the reverse camera stopped working on it 

anyway i have removed the radios fuse and will do a reading tomoz and see if gone down or not 

Just a thought really. Have you tried disconnecting the camera altogether if that's possible? It might be a problem with the camera circuit causing the radio unit to have a high standing current.

1 hour ago, Waggy said:

Just a thought really. Have you tried disconnecting the camera altogether if that's possible? It might be a problem with the camera circuit causing the radio unit to have a high standing current.

nope but that woill be next to try thanks

Another possibility if you've narrowed it down to the radio, has the radio been wired to a permanent live supply rather than one that's only on with the ignition or times off, so the radio never really gets fully turned off? Could explain why it's been ok while you're driving every day, but runs the battery down if you leave the car parked up for a few days.