Advice needed- Mk2 Focus Engine System Malfunction

[PRU 121W]

Could someone give me some advice on the current issue I have with my Ford Focus.

Its a bit of a story but I will keep to the facts about what I know.

Purchased the car a Focus Estate Ghia Mk2 55 reg 2.0 petrol Duratec HE.

The car when started from warm/hot will display the engine system fault on ignition along with EML prior to starting and once started is clearly in "limp Mode" and will remain so unless the battery is disconnected overnight. Once the battery is reconnected the following day the car drives spot on until its switched off for around ten minutes then it will display engine system fault on ignition prior to starting. it does not clear when the ignition is switch on and off so it must be driven in limp mode until the battery is disconnected overnight. The fault is almost cleared from the ECU when disconnected and the engine light is often not displayed. if the battery is left connected it will display this fault and start in limp mode so the battery needs to be disconnected overnight to erase the fault in the ECU.

Early on I did not have Forscan so I thought I would make use of my RAC membership and see what they could diagnose. The below is copied from the report as emailed to me-

Diagnostic Codes RAC DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM System Type: ENGINE SYSTEM TEST/VALUES Name: AODA - DURATEC-HE - 2.0L - 107 (145) DTC: P0325,Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1) DTC: P0403,Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit DTC: P0607,Control Module Performance DTC: P2110,Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM DTC: P2122,Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D Circuit Low Input DTC: P0122,Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input DTC: P0123,Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input DTC: P0223,Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit High Input DTC: P2135,Throttle position sensors A and B; plausibilty error

 I can account for the EGR codes as I had remove the plug to see if this was the cause as I had similar issue with a Zafira! The other codes are related to the problem are unaccounted for!

Whilst the RAC bloke was looking around, he checked the Throttle position plug that fits into the throttle body and confirmed there was correct voltage whilst I operated the throttle pedal. He suggested a new Throttle body which I ordered and fitted but the problem persisted as above.

Prior to me calling out the RAC a couple of weeks prior, I had deleted the swirl flaps and renewed the PCV hose and PCV oil seperator valve. I did not renew the inlet manifold gaskets.

I carried out a dry compression test and the values were cylinder 1 210 psi, cylinder 2 210 psi, cylinder 3 210 psi and cylinder 4 180 psi- I believe this is none related and cylinder 4 is just about in the correct range compared to the others? 

I have also tested each ignition coil whilst running with my Peco scope and the waves are similar-not related but worth mentioning.

I purchased an OBD and Forscan software and the results of my latest run is here-

I have removed the PCB speedo and re-soldered the board but no difference was made.

I have just fitted a new Bosch Tmap but the problem is still current as from the live data above I can see the voltage to the Tmap ranges from 0.67v to 4.15V which I believe is too low and too high respectively.

I have 5V coming from PCM to the Tmap plug when the ignition is on but not running.

I have cleaned four earths under the battery area and have have established continuity from the PCM plugs but had high resistance on one of the pins. I have tried to find a pinout for the PCM but they have been removed from this site. 

So, without me asking separate questions could someone give me some advise on what to check next and if there are any loom wiring diagrams I could have. I'm not brilliant with electronics but I am trying to rule out as much as I can before I send my PCM for testing which from experience is rarely the cause of electrical issues.

My thoughts are damage may have been caused to the loom during the clutch change as surely the previous owner would not install a new clutch with this issue present or something to do with me removing the inlet manifold to delete the swirl flaps as both these jobs required various connectors to be removed?

Thanks in advance for your time.

Greg

 

 

[StephenFord]

That's one helluva first post! Good luck with a solution and welcome to the forum...

[PRU 121W]

Update

New inlet manifold gaskets fitted but issue remains. I rechecked the new previously fitted PCV hose and PCV valve and it all intact.

Second compression test carried out-

cylinder 1 -Dry test 220psi wet 270psi

cylinder 1 -Dry test 220 wet 272psi

cylinder 1 -Dry test 210psi wet 260psi

cylinder 1 -Dry test 220psi wet 270psi

Although not related it was worth a second test as these differ from the first results and I am satisfied from these results show its in pretty good shape. Perhaps the initial test gave low readings as I may not have tightened or overtightened the tester hose to the adapter. This time I used electrical tape between the two fittings so I was able to tighten it in place a little better without fear of it coming apart when removing.

New spark plugs fitted whilst I was there!

Additional 3 earth points on each of the passenger a drivers side checked with multimeter- All in very good order.

Job for tomorrow will be to remove throttle pedal and see if I can open it up to clean any contacts. Also I will look a little closer for intake leaks as I believe the voltage to the Tmap is both too low and high as mentioned previously.

This live stream was taken today and to confirm I fitted battery this morning and it ran very well, went for a 20 min drive then parked up. Had a cuppa and then went out and it started fine and went well for a further 5mins and then "speed limiter mode" activated. This occured around 340 seconds in which I pulled over and saved the data as shown below.

 

If I could have some advise on the data I would be grateful or advice on any other parameters on forscan which I need to monitor

Thanks 

Greg

 

 

 

[Botus]

CPS?    cars that don't like hot start often have failing crank position sensor and can throw a code... often ok when the cooled down, the fault progressively gets worse sometimes over 6 months

no idea where ford have that signal / sensor

[PRU 121W]

Hi Botus,

I have since fitted a new Crank & Cam Sensor today but no improvement.

However I reconnected the battery and went driving with the new parts as mentioned above this morning, The "engine system" flickered on and went off again and for some reason I tapped the top of the dash and the "engine system" light went out!

I pulled the speedo out and found the plug retaining locking clip to the back of the speedo wasn't fully fastened! I must have not secured it correctly following the re soldering work I did a few weeks back or it may be compromised and weakened.

Anyway I have driven it a fair bit today with several stop & starts and all is good.

I believe the common issue of the solder joints to the back of the speedo board becoming "dry" isnt correct and the fault is with the plug moving around and with vibration is the cause for the solder to break down! I could be wrong but my intension is to place some paper or similar between the plug and the receiver housing to prevent any movement between the plug connection.

My intention is to keep the car as I do like it so with the cost for all my replacement sensors etc.. I hope to have many trouble free miles ahead! 

Excuse the over elaborate explanations but this is to aid others with similar issues. I have spent a few good hours on this problem and I hope this will help others to quickly resolve their faults.

Right-Back to the mk3

 

 

[Botus]

a faulty instrument cluster causing "fun" is a normal design feature of a 12 year old focus,  it may be this, wipe all the codes and when the fault is present, take another look...

alternately rule out future breakdowns and hope it helps the current issue go away by getting it refreshed...   if you think u will keep for 2 years JFDI, then see where you are, its like the CPS cheap and going to be an issue one day, 

when you are a home bod with limited tools, diagnostics, skills and particularity on intermittent faults on old cars.... if cheap enough sometimes fixing troublesome stuff that's cheap isn't so mental, as it helps rule out extra layers of fun 

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair/model/ford-focus-instrument-cluster-speedo-mk2?utm_source=FordOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals

sorted mine (quite pricey for a a kick with a soldering iron...)

 

[Botus]

replacement of aged capacitors is as much part of a long term cluster fix as is redoing a few joints

[FatHead1979]

On 3/25/2021 at 4:37 PM, Botus said:

a faulty instrument cluster causing "fun" is a normal design feature of a 12 year old focus,  it may be this, wipe all the codes and when the fault is present, take another look...

alternately rule out future breakdowns and hope it helps the current issue go away by getting it refreshed...   if you think u will keep for 2 years JFDI, then see where you are, its like the CPS cheap and going to be an issue one day, 

when you are a home bod with limited tools, diagnostics, skills and particularity on intermittent faults on old cars.... if cheap enough sometimes fixing troublesome stuff that's cheap isn't so mental, as it helps rule out extra layers of fun 

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair/model/ford-focus-instrument-cluster-speedo-mk2?utm_source=FordOwnersClub&utm_medium=ForumLinks&utm_campaign=referrals

sorted mine (quite pricey for a a kick with a soldering iron...)

 

Being an early MK2 model it's a prime candidate for cluster issues.