Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Focus 1.0 ecoboost oil in plug wells


Recommended Posts

Esteemed members I have replaced the cam cover gasket on my 1.0 ecoboost due to fouling of the can boots,oil in plug wells and eventual misfire.

I followed Mr Haynes instructions to the letter and used gasket silicone in the correct amounts and places.

Oil still getting into plug wells and coil boots.

I have checked for any signs of oil tracking from the plastic cover down to the head but I can see no trace.

So..possible causes.

1.maybe I have made a mistake in fitting the gasket.

2. Does this model have plug oil seals that I don't know about.

3.the oil is coming from below the spark plug.

I would be interested to hear some opinions as its getting rather tedious pulling the coils every few days to clean them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for that ian.I'll pull the plugs and have a look.I take it the oil would be able to force its way past the threads of the plug from below if these seals were worn.

The oil is clean..would it not be dirty if it came from below ?

No blue  or black smoke from exhaust.

Looks like a head off job to do these seals ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Never done it myself TBH but that is the symptoms. There is not much detailed stuff around on the Ecoboost. Somebody should know something and hopefully chime in. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Seen a few 1 litre ecoboosts leak oil from the headgasket, but I'd expect low compression and burning oil. 

If it's clean oil then I wouldn't have thought it's coming from below the plug. 

When you resealed the cam cover did you make sure it was all clean and dry, if there's a drop of oil left on the mating surfaces then the sealer won't bond.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes sir.Cleaned and pristine.The first thing you notice when removing the coil pack us the oil deposits on the base.Now I'm going to be honest and say that there was damage to either the head or gasket as the oil was contaminated and massive coolant loss due to a failure of the expansion tank.I used two doses of steel seal and thought it had come back from the dead..no more contamination of oil and No coolant loss...since December....Vehicle runs reasonably well for 70k...I'm watching the oil and coolant like a hawk.The oil in the plug wells is clean.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Usually that sort of damage on an ecoboost engine is game over, I've got to say though I can't think of what else could be causing it without looking at it. You got any pictures to see if that helps? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for sticking with me master tech .The steel seal seems to have worked in spite of the doomsayers predictions.I was present at the moment of failure and acted quickly and as I say the oil and coolant are steady and clean. 5 months and counting.Now I've got no doubt that some damage has occurred and the doomsayers would have me replace the engine for a 60 quid gasket..no chance.Im going to fight to save this engine even though I'm only a humble street mechanic.If it has to be then I'll strip her down and get an expert to attend to the head.Its bizarre that some mechanics don't want to work on this engine.Ive replaced the coolant tank,degas hose and valve cover gasket and the only downer is the oil build up in the wells and coil boots.i will have a good look at the plugs and report back.What I don't know is if the oil is coming up from below how it would behave i.e. spray... surge....flood...it will obviously be under more pressure from below as I imagine from above its only under splash pressure.If I can cure this then I think I can save the car.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On the 1.0 ECOboost engine oil inside the spark plug wells is usually caused by a defective cam cover gasket or a cracked cam cover. In your case the gasket is already replaced and can considered to be OK. However did you also inspect the cam cover for cracks? On a 1.0 ECOboost engine a cracked cam cover is quite common. Since in most cases the cracks are very small (microcracks) it can be very difficult to diagnose.

You should also check the cylinder head thoroughly for (micro)cracks. On the 1.0 ECOboost a defective head gasket is usually the result of overheating (which is unfortunately quite common). Overheating of the 1.0 ECOboost engine can also cause the cylinder head to crack and cause an oil leak. I have both seen and read about this multiple times.


There is no way that the oil comes from below and enters the spark plug wells through the spark plug threads. First the spark plugs directly enter the cylinder where there are no significant amounts of oil (otherwise the engine will burn a lot of oil) and second the spark plug threads and conical seat form an air and liquid tight seal. If the oil comes from below there must be a crack in the cylinder head between the spark plug wells and an oil channel. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just be prepared if you strip the head.

1. The crank pulley bolt is extremely tight and needs a torque multiplier to do back up

2. The spec for distortion on the cylinder head and block is ridiculous (smaller than the smallest feeler gauge) and the head can not be skimmed. This is one of the main reasons for the majority of people just putting an engine in them. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

The crankshaft pulley bolt is tightened using the torque multiplier to 300 mm + 82.5 degrees angle at the output shaft of the torque multiplier.  The torque multiplier makes it easier to achieve this but is not really necessary. A decent torque wrench and a long breaker bar combined with a torque angle gauge will also do the job. 


The maximum allowable distortion of the mating face of the cilinder head is 0,05 mm. This is not particularly small. All other Focus MK3 Petrol engines do also have a maximum allowable distortion of the mating face of the cilinder head of 0,05 mm.

The Ford Etis workshop software does not mention that it is not allowed to skim the cilinder head at all. I am very curious about the source of this information. Especially because Ford offers both new and factory remanufactured cilinder heads. The factory remanufactured cilinder heads have skimmed mating faces.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have pulled the plugs for inspection and enclose some pics for your perusal.The interesting thing for me is the lovely baked golden colour of the lower threads also some black oil deposits on the threads.Note the pic of the coil boot with the sweating oil deposits.Electrodes a wee bit sooty and black  but not wet.Oil still stable and clean as is coolant.

20210406_185029.jpg

20210406_190649.jpg

20210406_185842.jpg

20210406_185031.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership