Eco boost not reaching optimum running temperature

[Henryebb]

2015 zetec s 1.0 ecoboost 
Hello, I’ve seen a couple of threads about similar symptoms but non seem to have a resolution. Hesitant to take it to Ford for diagnostics for them to tell me nothings wrong, as I have seen this on previous threads with similar issues. 
The car doesn’t heat up to 90°, I get about two blobs on the dash where I should be getting 4. If I pull up after a drive and enter the test menu my coolant temperature is roughly 50°. 
My suspicion, reading previous threads, is that it may be the thermostat stuck open so running in a sort of choke state? My mpg are under 40 so this would also suggest this? Has any one experienced this and had a solution? Has anyone replaced the thermostat on this engine? How hard of a job is it? any advice welcome. Thanks in advance Henry. 

[Eng_Ahmad1986]

either a stuck open main thermostat ( there is a another one called the block thermostat ) or a faulty coolant temperature sensor. such a situation should trigger a trouble code, I suggest you scan for any trouble codes, it may shed more light.

[KCRobs]

Hi, I have a 2014 1.0 eco and mine is the same with only 1 or 2 bars normally showing and wondered if there was an issue. I hooked up an odb reader and monitored the temps and coolant stayed around 61°c running for 1.5 hours with town and motorway speeds (mostly motorway). Only in heavy traffic it rose to around 90°c and 4 bars recently. No fault codes on Torque phone app reader I'm using, so have no idea what might be causing. I have just put it down to the cooler weather but will be interested to see what you find Henry. Good luck.

[MasterTechTip]

I literally just had a 1 litre in doing this the other day and it was a stuck open thermostat (the main one in the thermostat housing not the one on the block). The complaint was similar to yours, basically never got to running temperature due to the coolant constantly being flowed through the radiator.

[Henryebb]

Brilliant, as I suspected then. Cheers for the speedy response guys! 

[cjay1]

Mine is also not reaching operating temperature.it settles at 2or 3 dots on the temperature guage. Would a stuck open thermostat trigger a fault code as I have none? I do drive in an eco friendly manner would this stop the engine reaching operating temperature.

[MasterTechTip]

@cjay1no it wouldn't log a fault code at all as the thermostat isn't electronically controlled or monitored so the car doesn't actually know if it's open or closed. 

[Eng_Ahmad1986]

4 hours ago, MasterTechTip said:

@cjay1no it wouldn't log a fault code at all as the thermostat isn't electronically controlled or monitored so the car doesn't actually know if it's open or closed. 

actually it should trigger a fault code, even if the thermostat is not monitored electronically, however the coolant temperature during warming up procedure is monitored and compared to a stored model inside the PCM, taking into consideration other inputs like ambient temperature, engine load, RPM, etc.. , and if the coolant temperature fails to reach the desired limit after a specific amount of time according to the model then should trigger a trouble code.

here is a quote from the system operation and trouble code service manual for Ecoboost engines : 

During a cold start, when the thermostat should be closed, the monitor uses a model of ECT to determine whether actual ECT should have crossed the Warm Up Temperature (WUT) threshold. .

The engine coolant temperature warm-up model compensates for the following thermal characteristics:

1. Coolant heating (heat source):

• Combustion heating (engine speed and load based).

• Cooling system heaters (electric or fuel-fired - new for 2013 MY)

2. Coolant cooling (heat sink):

• Due to cylinder cut-out (DFSO or powertrain limiting).

• Injectors are cut but still pumping air through the engine. Increased cooling compared to engine shut-down.

• Due to engine shut-down. (Stop/Start and Hybrid – new for 2013 MY).

3. Coolant flow rate:

• Mechanical water pumps have been replace on some applications with clutched water pumps or electric water pumps.

Once the ECT model exceeds the WUT threshold, after a calibratable time delay, measured ECT is compared to the same WUT threshold to determine if ECT has warmed up enough. If ECT has warmed up to at least the WUT threshold, the thermostat is functioning properly. If ECT is too low, the thermostat is most likely stuck open and a P0128 is set.

DTC P0128 - Coolant Thermostat (Coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature)

Monitor Execution : Once per driving cycle, during a cold start

Monitoring Duration : Drive cycle dependent.

Monitor completes in less than 300 seconds, when inferred ECT exceeds threshold (at 70 deg F ambient temperature).

 

if a failed thermostats fails to register a trouble code then that would be interesting and ford should answer to this .

[MasterTechTip]

Well I hate to tell you this but the one I diagnosed did over 150 miles without reaching optimum running temperature and never logged a DTC 😂

The ecoboost engines failed to monitor a overheat condition yet alone not warming up, in theory yes it should log a DTC I mean there's complex processors monitoring every inch of the car at all times but when it comes to reality the monitors never log a physical fault.

[Eng_Ahmad1986]

1 minute ago, MasterTechTip said:

Well I hate to tell you this but the one I diagnosed did over 150 miles without reaching optimum running temperature and never logged a DTC 😂

The ecoboost engines failed to monitor a overheat condition yet alone not warming up, in theory yes it should log a DTC I mean there's complex processors monitoring every inch of the car at all times but when it comes to reality the monitors never log a physical fault.

thats exactly what I mean, Ford should answer to this issue after this complex algorithm it is utilizing !!! something is just not right, and that makes me wonder what are other conditions that their logic is not working correctly to catch them !!

[MasterTechTip]

They did admit to messing up the engines between 2012-2015 and since fitted a cylinder head temperature sensor and software revisions and now a completely new engine from 2019 onwards... I wouldn't even like to think what other factors get missed across all models... But hey if they made it too easy I'd be out of a job 😂

[Cragrat]

Hi, I too am having an issue with coolant temp. After reading this post I thought I would replace both thermostats in my  14 plate 1.0 ecoboost. Looking on line several companies make replacements but I thought I would get a price from Ford. £46.13 for one and £40.19 for the other. Are they having a laugh and no stock they have to order in! The parts manager also recommended replacing the housing on one of them. I didn't get a price on that. So shopping round much cheaper. Does anyone have recommendations for which manufacturer to go for and is it really necessary to replace the housing?

Thanks

 

[Cragrat]

Further to my post above, The listed main thermostats all have an opening temp of 92 deg whereas the body supplementary thermostat seems to have either a 50 deg or 71 deg both applicable to my engine. Any thoughts which is correct?  

[Cragrat]

I monitored my temp using the secret menu. During a 20 mile round trip the temp stayed around 58 -62 the whole time. Only rising to 90 when stuck in traffic for a while. Thermostats on order.

[cjay1]

So today completed a 19 mile round trip. Before setting off set the secret menu to temperature. The temperature rose fairly quickly and steadily to 57 degrees c then fluctuated between 57 and 63 finishing the journey at 58. Could it be anything except a stuck thermostat? And how much should I be looking to pay for replacement?

[Eng_Ahmad1986]

8 hours ago, cjay1 said:

So today completed a 19 mile round trip. Before setting off set the secret menu to temperature. The temperature rose fairly quickly and steadily to 57 degrees c then fluctuated between 57 and 63 finishing the journey at 58. Could it be anything except a stuck thermostat? And how much should I be looking to pay for replacement?

rising quickly to 57 as you say suggests that the block thermostat is OK, as the block thermostat starts to open at 50 and is fully open at 65, however failing to reach the optimum temperature suggests a main thermostat failure as I think.

 

[cjay1]

ok so got some quotes today prices as follows:

garage 1 £275 diagnose and fit (wont fit the part without diagnosis)

garage 2 £150 to fit and £60 to diagnose (will just carry out the work if requested but warn it could be caused by blockage and recommend diagnostic to confirm stat)

garage 3 £210 diagnose and fit 

as the radiator is warm top and bottom at 55 degrees c is it worth skipping the diagnostic check and just get the stat replaced also is £150? a fair price for the work

 

[cjay1]

new stat fitted and engine now reaching operating temperature. no dtc triggered despite the faulty stat so fords monitoring system is not to be relied upon to diagnose a fault.

[Cragrat]

Had both thermostats replaced at local garage, I provided the thermostats and the garage the coolant. Cost £190. Temp gauge now 3-4 bars and rises to this quickly. Next time I get a chance I will check the digital temp.

[Cragrat]

Update, Now get 4 bars on temp gauge and using digital display very quickly up to 92 deg C. This is driving on M5 and around and about.

[Richb1970]

I too have this issue, not had anything done about it yet as I’ve been troubleshooting and came across this thread, I wanted to ask though, does this issue have anything to do with the loss of heat to the interior of the car as well? 
cheers 

[cjay1]

In my case the car interior still warmed up but took much longer to do so but In my case only the 90°c stat was broken the 65°c thermostat still worked so coolant was able to partly warm.

[GasRob]

Sorry to necro an old thread - I've got a 63 plate Zetec S, 1 litre. Bought it from a Ford approved dealer local to me.

When purchased, car ran to operating temperature (4 bars) fine and stayed there, regardless of conditions. However, in late October it started only reaching 2 bars, at which point I suspected it was the thermostat (and after reading this thread made me more sure) had gone, and took it back to the dealership.

They changed the thermostat and the water pump for me (I also got them to do the timing belt at the same time which only cost me £330 as everything else was covered by warranty - chuffed with that), however the car still only ran up to 2 bars, have got it to 3 while stationary in traffic. But never reached 4 bars again.

I called the garage back, spoke to the mechanic that worked on the car and he assured me that it was fine (and supposedly better for the engine as if ecoboosts overheat they explode) and the reason it didn't get to temperature was due to the efficiency of the newer water pump they'd fitted, waffle like that.

I wasn't convinced but decided to go with it anyways.

However, during these last few really cold weeks it's been worse. The car sometimes (on my 12 mile commute) doesn't even always register 1 bar on the dash, although the cabin gets warm, though it certainly doesn't heat up like it used to.

I'm wondering if this is bad for the car - from previous experience with cars it causes carbon buildup etc if the car doesn't reach operating temperature consistently. Should I take it back to them? I have a year's warranty up until next August, so I suppose I may as well make use of it.

Cheers

[unofix]

25 minutes ago, GasRob said:

(I also got them to do the timing belt at the same time which only cost me £330

[unofix]

Just checking that you have a standard 1.0 Ecoboost engine ??

If so then unless you bought it from a charity shop, there is no way the garage could have changed the wet belt for only £330 without making a huge loss.