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Ford KA Metal 2012 AGM vs EFB battery?


Danny2000
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Hi there, 

I've been going through a bit of a mess with my car recently, alternator and battery issues constantly. After taking it in to the garage for the 5th time, they believe that the wrong type of battery has been fitted this time by the RAC (a VARTA EFB Battery) and that it in fact needs an AGM battery, and that all of the current issues it's faced have been due to a bad sensor on the stop start system, and a battery diagnostic not being run since the new batteries I've had fitted have been put in place... 

All of it is getting a bit much for me, can anyone give me some input on if the aspect about the AGM vs EFB battery is right, I can't see anything online about it.

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There are people on here with knowledge about start stop systems, but I'm not one.  It seems logical that if there was a fault in part of the start stop system, sensor or otherwise then that's one issue.  Is there a knock on effect of that issue causing "alternator and battery issues" I don't know.  Should you have an AGM battery rather than an EFB?  Well it's not a tank of a car, so I wouldn't have thought that the demand on the battery justified an AGM?  Anyone?  Varta's are great and I would have though the RAC knew what they are doing if it's the correct AH and crank rating (CCA).  Was the car fitted with an AGM from new?

Battery diagnostic?  Does the ECU/PCM need to learn that it's a different battery to accommodate it?  Does diagnostic software need to run to facilitate this?  Please someone tell me this isn't true, because that would be such an admin overhead for a simple change in the system (i.e. new or different battery).

Would your garage put their money where their mouth is and loan you an AGM as a test run?  If they are right, do a part ex on the battery and get them to do a test on the sensor?

For the sake of the post, you might want to clarify what alternator and battery issues you've had.

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13 minutes ago, Marineboy said:

Does the ECU/PCM need to learn that it's a different battery to accommodate it?

Yes.

14 minutes ago, Marineboy said:

Does diagnostic software need to run to facilitate this?

Yes/No kind of

 

14 minutes ago, Marineboy said:

Please someone tell me this isn't true

Its true.

Now I surpose you would like to know how to reset it ?

The truth is I don't know, it has something to do with having your foot on the brake pedel and flashing the headlights on and off 5 times but there is a real sequence that has to be done to reset the battery charging and monitoring system when you fit a replacment.

Someone will answer this I'm sure - It has been answered many times before on the forum if you search through old threads

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The KA uses an EFB AFAIK, and Varta are a pretty decent battery manufacturer.

It may not actually be the start/stop causing this. Have you done parasitic draw tests, battery and alternator tests?

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On 4/28/2021 at 4:05 PM, unofix said:

reset the battery charging and monitoring system when you fit a replacment.

Cheers.  Oh, OK could be worse to sort then.  I thought maybe you'd have to faff around with Forscan or something just to cordially invite a different battery to the setup.  As Luke says, there's a bunch of stuff I would have thought the garage would be questioning before the battery type (EFB then, cheers Luke).

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Does the capacity matter? Or can you for a 60 Ah? 

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Yes the battery does matter, it needs to be the same or better than the original. For example 360 Amp 64Ah

Do you know what the battery was that the RAC replaced ? and what is the battery you now have ?

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