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I had a problem with the alternator / charging earlier this year - or was it last year ? anyway the fuse blew that feeds the 12v line to the control plug on my alternator.

 

replaced the plug as it was rotten / corroded, the fuse and all has been well till a couple of weeks ago.

battery light illuminated on dash, checked voltage and alternator not supplying anything, 12v control line is present on control plug so diagnosed alternator has died.

car still drives but battery slowly discharges obviously.

I am on a Facebook fusion group, bought an alternator from one of the lads who breaks fusions, however it is not the correct alternator.

Mine is the heavier current version, and the pulley has a slip clutch.

Does anyone here have the correct alternator for sale ? i can get a refurbed from ebay which is the correct one but price is running away on this job. I spoke to my garage mechanic who said to avoid pattern replacements as they dont last long ? and to replace with an original part.... ???

Removal of the old one is quite an awkward job so understandably i want to sort this first time.

Maybe (after looking on youtube) i should just strip the alternator and replace the slip ring / bushes - but maybe it's the regulator thats failed - again i can see price running away - alternatively maybe i should drop it off at the autoelectricians and see if they can repair it.

Car is only used as a back up, as we live in a very isolated rural area (heartbeat country) so can live without it but if the mk4 vaux 1.7dti fails i am well and truly in the shi*.... and due to this location i have a two week wait before a garage could do the job - but i do my own work wherever possible.

fire away, with opinions or advice...

The correct one in the pics is the valeo, not the all metal one

cheers and happy new year....

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Do you need the higher output alternator? I don’t know what the differences were that dictated alternator output. Whether or not it has quickclear windcreen? Perhaps.  Also what dictates which car gets the clutch type pulley or traditional pulley. So I don’t know if it matters that much.   If the alternator you obtained does actually fit ( mountings the same. Wire connectors the same. Pulley lines up correctly) then I might feel inclined to fit that one if it was my car. 

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Hi,

Thanks for reply.

1.4 2005 tdci fusion + and yes it does have the heated windscreen, however it no longer works, it lost a bit at a time and eventually failed to operate.

TBH i rarely used it, i tend to get engine warm and leave blower on for 5 min !

mountings look the same, connectors all the same - the position of the control connector is slightly different but loom will easily reach - i don't know why it has a clutched pulley on the original, i remember my vaux van had one and i thought it only came into action when a vehicle was reversed ?

I think i will google that....

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My brothers 1.8tdci focus had clutch pulley on alternator. It failed so alternator only turned slowly compared to pulley and battery went flat. I don’t know if they are used more on diesels.  I think some cars have reverse direction of drive in the pulley clutch.  Ie.  Some freewheel when engine is decelerating and some freewheel when car is accelerating to give less drag and hence better fuel economy. 

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This is where the clutched alternator pulley comes in – just like the bike, the alternator can “free-wheel” at the higher speed, spinning down gradually until the alternator speed matches the engine speed, at which point the pulley will engage again, just like your bike. ...

Ah i have had a read up and i don't think it's a good idea to fit a fixed pulley alternator, it's to disengage the alternator on deacceleration, if fitted the auto tensioner will suffer greatly, belt will possibly squeal too as well as a premature death of the belt.

I do have the tooling to remove the clutched pulley from my old alternator, but almost certain it wont fit on the replacement alternator

 

 

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I have used this company before. I bought a refurbished / service exchange alternator for my daughter's Kuga just over a year ago. It worked first time and has been fine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/alternatorstartermotorparts?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2563

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I have replaced the slip ring, brushes and barings (cost £13.50 from Ebay) on my Focus' alternator. I had to also buy the tool to get the slip pulley off. The Slip Ring was quite badly worn. I didnt find it a difficult job as long as you have a decent soldering iron. I followed a pretty good YouTube video. 

However, in the mean time I bought a used one and I haven't had chance to fit the one I repaired yet. Even if you do get a used one, it would be worth repairing the old one, especially as you have the tool already. 

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Thanks for the info Nathan

I will opt for a recon, or even used and if possible keep my old one with potential to repair.

Cheapest i have found is £87 used but is from italy.

Plenty of wrong versions appear in search results via google and ebay, but correct ones do appear and when filtered the prices aint cheap (moving up to around £200), some of these suppliers want the old unit in exchange too so that kills the original idea of fixing the old one.

Unofix suggestion looks good (thanks) however that seller doesn't list my version but i think i will contact him asking for availability.

Will follow it up tomorrow as quite pi**ed off with it now.

Thanks to all for the time replying.

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, fullwavebridge said:

that seller doesn't list my version but i think i will contact him asking for availability.

They will service and refurbish your own unit if you send it to them.

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Sounds like an option - i will contact him shortly.

Should have done a video on the strip down too for others, i may do a reassembly video instead if i get time. There are a couple online but not clear enough for people confident to have ago for the first time. I was putting it off but regret not doing it earlier as the job is quite easy but awkward.

Many thanks

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Chap on ebay still aint got back in touch, must still be on xmas break or rammed with work.

In the meantime i dropped old unit off with electro deisel company as i had an hour to kill after shift on tues, been informed stator winding is shot so not repairable apparently.

They can supply brand new Bosch 150 amp version (not a recon), 2 year warranty, oad pulley fitted £161+ vat so looking at around £200 part supply only.

Gauranteed to work re the smart charge too as some are crap and dont last.

Unbranded (new) ? 150a on ebay £100 ish

Branded Bosch 150a (remanufactured) £110 upwards to £200

Not really interested now in a used breakers one as i don't want it failing for the remainder of my ownership so may have to bite the bullet and go for the brand new with 2 year ticket.

 

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Well all sorted now.

I opted for a brand new unit, not a reconditioned unit or a remanufactured part.

Spoke to nice old fella in my nearest electro diesel firm, showed me mine on test bed, stator winding was open circuit.

Explained that at that age, they supply a lot of alternators with stator winding fault - especially on fords.

I purchased a brand new Bosch unit, 2 years warranty, new slip pulley fitted - any problems i can just go back there. 

Mail order put me off, couriers, risk of damage, and whatever else made my mind up as well as needing the car back on the road asap.

The supplier unofix suggested was very helpful but wasn't clear if it was new or a recon as well as a 2 week wait - so not an option.

New alternator was..... £160.   my loss if i didn't have the car to go to work is £110 a day and i aint a gambler....

Didn't have time to video the strip down and refit but here's a rough description....( I AM NOT A MECHANIC, but i am an electrical fitter / wireman ) 2005 1.4tdci with aircon

jack up car, drivers wheel off 17mm x 4, remove belt cover at far side of arch with two torx screws, bonnet up, remove drivers side head lamp with 3 torx screws, remove aux drive belt with 15mm spanner down towards you on tensioner, remove idler pulley on lower alternator mount 13mm, top bolt alternator is 15mm i think, alternator is now secured on rhs with two 16mm upper and lower - dont remove these yet, but do remove control plug and + cable terminal from alternator 13mm.

next from under side remove aircon pump bolts 13mm x 4, and pull away from block, pipes are quite stiff so it doesnt harm to let it hang there, if in doubt bungee loop it from above.

next remove alternator rhs lower 16mm bolt (from below), it's horrible to get into and only half of the bolt head is showing so use a good quality spanner - you cannot get a socket in there ! next is top bolt 16mm remove from above and its as bad to get at as the oil dipstick is right next to it, again its tight... but possible.

alternator is now free and negotiatiate it downwards to remove, dibbling, shuffling to get out moving the air con pump as you go.

fitting is reversal of the above, but dont forget the idler is on the bottom of alternator mount not the top ! yep i did that on refitting ! .....

I found it awkward to refit the aux belt, (i used the old one as i had it replaced when cam belt was done 3k ago) but heres how i did it...

fit belt as per the service manual diagram but not on the idler (i had several attempts) then with 15mm spanner on idler fit a steel tube over the spanner for extra leverage, and slip the belt over the bottom of the idler - this took me 30 minutes to realise ! ensure it is correctly aligned in the grooves on all pulleys.

Thats it really, i reckon i could remove one now and refit in 1 hour, i did mine wearing my fenix headlamp, in the cold and it was raining - it always rains as i remove the tool chest from the lock up....

Check voltage at alternator or battery and it should be 14.4v or there abouts.

https://youtu.be/nSA-SLR8JcQ

lads at worked asked me what i was up to at weekend - i explained the job and the price of part relating to the age of the car, one said "scrap it and get another" and i replied " when your dog goes to the vets and needs a minor op and you are quoted £600 - have it put to sleep and get another dog" ? the look of disgust on his face was a joy to see.

Hope this helps anyone with same issue, and thanks to the other forum members who took the time to read & comment on the thread.

Never give up, this did look a daunting nightmare of a job, but taking a modular logical approach, it was easily achieved , albeit very awkward.... what's next i ask myself?...

 

 

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14 hours ago, fullwavebridge said:

Well all sorted now. "edit due to using 15mm spanner on idler - wrong - sorry i meant TENSIONER"

I opted for a brand new unit, not a reconditioned unit or a remanufactured part.

Spoke to nice old fella in my nearest electro diesel firm, showed me mine on test bed, stator winding was open circuit.

Explained that at that age, they supply a lot of alternators with stator winding fault - especially on fords.

I purchased a brand new bosch unit, 2 years warranty, new slip pulley fitted - any problems i can just go back there. 

Mail order put me off, couriers, risk of damage, and whatever else made my mind up as well as needing the car back on the road asap.

The supplier unofix suggested was very helpful but wasn't clear if it was new or a recon as well as a 2 week wait - so not an option.

New alternator was..... £160.   my loss if i didn't have the car to go to work is £110 a day and i aint a gambler....

Didn't have time to video the strip down and refit but here's a rough description....( I AM NOT A MECHANIC, but i am an electrical fitter / wireman ) 2005 1.4tdci with aircon

jack up car, drivers wheel off 17mm x 4, remove belt cover at far side of arch with two torx screws, bonnet up, remove drivers side head lamp with 3 torx screws, remove aux drive belt with 15mm spanner down towards you on tensioner, remove idler pulley on lower alternator mount 13mm, top bolt alternator is 15mm i think, alternator is now secured on rhs with two 16mm upper and lower - dont remove these yet, but do remove control plug and + cable terminal from alternator 13mm.

next from under side remove aircon pump bolts 13mm x 4, and pull away from block, pipes are quite stiff so it doesnt harm to let it hang there, if in doubt bungee loop it from above.

next remove alternator rhs lower 16mm bolt (from below), it's horrible to get into and only half of the bolt head is showing so use a good quality spanner - you cannot get a socket in there ! next is top bolt 16mm remove from above and its as bad to get at as the oil dipstick is right next to it, again its tight... but possible.

alternator is now free and negotiatiate it downwards to remove, dibbling, shuffling to get out moving the air con pump as you go.

fitting is reversal of the above, but dont forget the idler is on the bottom of alternator mount not the top ! yep i did that on refitting ! .....

I found it awkward to refit the aux belt, (i used the old one as i had it replaced when cam belt was done 3k ago) but heres how i did it...

fit belt as per the service manual diagram but not on the idler (i had several attempts) then with 15mm spanner on TENSIONER (not idler ) fit a steel tube over the spanner for extra leverage, and slip the belt over the bottom of the idler - this took me 30 minutes to realise ! ensure it is correctly aligned in the grooves on all pulleys.

Thats it really, i reckon i could remove one now and refit in 1 hour, i did mine wearing my fenix headlamp, in the cold and it was raining - it always rains as i remove the tool chest from the lock up....

Check voltage at alternator or battery and it should be 14.4v or there abouts.

https://youtu.be/nSA-SLR8JcQ

lads at worked asked me what i was up to at weekend - i explained the job and the price of part relating to the age of the car, one said "scrap it and get another" and i replied " when your dog goes to the vets and needs a minor op and you are quoted £600 - have it put to sleep and get another dog" ? the look of disgust on his face was a joy to see.

Hope this helps anyone with same issue, and thanks to the other forum members who took the time to read & comment on the thread.

Never give up, this did look a daunting nightmare of a job, but taking a modular logical approach, it was easily achieved , albeit very awkward.... what's next i ask myself?...

 

 

 

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