AlwaysTrouble68 Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 Sorry if I have duplicated this question. Focus 1.6 tdci 2010. Has anyone managed to sort out the 1500rpm hesitation problems yet as I cannot seem to find fault with anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 Hello Tony, so have you used FORScan to check for Ford specific DTC's ? How long has the problem been going on ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanfp Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 My problem was related to the MAF, but yours may be different. Forscan should help. But in the meantime, you could try disconnecting the MAF - that improved my symptoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 Since I've had the car about a year. Looked in FORscan and nothing showing. Any idea what a good maf should read at idle ? Thank you for your reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizer Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 58 minutes ago, AlwaysTrouble68 said: Since I've had the car about a year. Looked in FORscan and nothing showing. Any idea what a good maf should read at idle ? Thank you for your reply About 6 g/sec at Idle, might be nearer 7 on a cold engine in winter and no lower than 5. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 Thank you very. Will check . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 Sorry , Much. 😬 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 Sorry for delay. You were spot on. My MAF is running at 6 on idle. So im guessing it's something else. ***** annoying. Doesn't matter what gear your in, it's always around 1500rpm particularly when light on the throttle ie just feathering. Thank you for your help. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Try watching the EGR on live diags to see if that coincides with the stuttering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 Thank you. Will have a look today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 I've just checked the MAF sensor readings with FORscan live data and it's reading 10.8 at idle. Seems a bit high to me? Confused now 😕. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 Have something similar with my Focus C-Max. My MAF is reading about 6 to 8 when idling, when the EGR reads vary from 25 to 30. please tell me it's not the EGR valve fault, the replacement is rather expensive...I have no error code related to EGR though... List of actual error codes in mine: U0073-21 P193B-24 P1936-24 U0416-28 U1900-20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 Not the egr, mine is fine and still has fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 @AlwaysTrouble68this is a great relief, to know that the EGR fault might not be the reason for jerking. However I tried to clean the MAP sensor, spraying some brake cleaner into it. A few drops of oil came out, I then blowed some compressed air into the hole (but not directly, to avoid messing up the sensor) and refitted it. Also I wiggled a little these vacuum hoses to see if there is any break and disconnected every single sensor plug that was in sight from the top side. gave them a little contact spray treatment, waited for it to evaporate and plugged all back in. Gone for a ride - something changed. Earlier the jerking would come when the engine was cold and only in the range of 1500 to 1750revs. Now it stutters when it's a little warm and only below 1500. When the engine reaches optimal temps, it also starts to jerk, but only in the range of approximately 1300-1500revs. Maybe the MAP sensor is the way to go. I will try to mount one from my other C-Max and will see if there is any difference. Will keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 Thanks please do!!😀 Just a thought but I'm going to check the Throttle position sensor (TPS). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 Yeah, got the same thing going, but tried to use the throttle pedal from the other one (as I have two nearly identical cars - Focus C-Max 2006 and C-Max 2007, which differ mostly in looks) and when fitted the TPS from the other one, the issue remains, so either the injectors, or MAP, or PCM. For now I will try with the MAP, maybe tomorrow. One of my fault codes say something about CAN and as I found on Polish forums it can be instrument cluster bad soldering causing this code, the code about the TPS and the jerking in result too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenM Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 @EndoPL might be worth a read of the thread linked below, several similar lists of fault codes some of which ended up linked to faulty instrument clusters. Maybe maybe not but worth a thought. https://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/showthread.php/325356-Strange-problem-Focus-1-6TDCi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted November 28, 2022 Author Share Posted November 28, 2022 Thank you.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanfp Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 If you're still struggling, you could try disconnecting the MAF sensor - it only takes two minutes to do and it did cure my 1600 - 1900 rpm hesitation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 @alanfp did that 2 days ago, did work well for about 50 kilometers of driving. then MIL lit up and i had to connect MAF again and clear the fault codes to get out of limpy mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanfp Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 14 minutes ago, EmdoPL said: then MIL lit up and i had to connect MAF again and clear the fault codes to get out of limpy mode. Sorry - I should have said that if you do that the MIL light will come on after a while! But it does perhaps point to a way forward. When my MIL came on it didn't limp - it just continued to drive OK. I didn't have to clear any codes, though I guess they may have been stored in the car. The proper solution for me would have been to clean the MAF sensor every month but I wasn't prepared to do that so I disconnected it and reconnected it for the MOT. I believe that a new one would have oiled up just the same. It looks as though it's oil mist from a breather pipe (crankcase breather???) which contaminates it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 16 minutes ago, alanfp said: It looks as though it's oil mist from a breather pipe (crankcase breather???) which contaminates it. Right, the oil mist liquifies on the sensor and that causes it to not work properly. That's why I am planning to make a custom oil catch can for both of my cars. Anyways, when I said it was in "limpy mode" i meant that it continued to stutter on idle. In the evening I'll try to install the MAP from the second car that I own and if that makes no difference - I'll check the instrument cluster for bad soldering and correct it. I just watched a video about it and it's easier than I thought it would be. Also, I stumbled on a trick that works for 2.0TDCi, but it involves installing a second thermometer, and a circuit with a switch and a resistor to trick the PCM that the engine temperature is lower than it actually is and the PCM will use better fuel to air ratio, which eliminates the hesitation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanfp Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 2 minutes ago, EmdoPL said: I am planning to make a custom Oil catch can for both of my cars. I'm very impressed 🙂 Hope you get it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmdoPL Posted November 28, 2022 Share Posted November 28, 2022 Thanks. I can post a link to the video with that trick I mentioned above, but the guy speaks Polish, so I don't know if You can understand our slavic language lol Here You go: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlwaysTrouble68 Posted November 29, 2022 Author Share Posted November 29, 2022 Im impressed also.Thank you.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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