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Bol
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mmm... a nice shiny snake oil bit! Lovely. Who am I to talk, over the years I have installed a huge magnet on my fuel line, because it claimed to align all the electrons giving me a 20% fuel saving (it didn't), a 'swirl' filter device on my turbo breather pipe becasue the added disruption would give me more power (it didn't), numerous fuel additives to boost power, clean injectors etc etc, induction kits, performance air filters...

Think about it, if a car manufacture could improve things so much after spending £Millions on development, why don't they spend the pennies themselves to give added showroom appeal.

But like I said, I'm a sucker for a shiny product - go for it 🤣

Oh, and some of the YouTube comments are 12 years old, so hardly a revolutionary new product, and if it was, we'd have heard about it...

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The technician need it to adjust the new turbo. Because even though it is new, check engine appeared.

He said that it can increase power a bit. Not like a tune/remap.

In this case for turbo ajdjustment.

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1 minute ago, Bol said:

The technician need it to adjust the new turbo. Because even though it is new, check engine appeared.

 

Ford never needed one of these for the turbo to operate correctly. I would guess that there is another cause to the 'check engine' message, and would be better investigated by a proper 'Forscan' diagnosis...

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After many times of investigation, never found any other cause.

Check engine stopped when the technician adjusted the turbo adding four small metals to increase boost. Then it was works fine.

So instead of having those little things he suggested to put turbosmart, because he also has it on his car.

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In these days of everyone trying to cut costs and Ford is at the front of the line for trimming down what they can. They should just fire the whole of the engine design department (Yes I know that 1.0 Ecoboost owners already think that).

Instead just fit all these after market bits and bobs to there engines. They would all go faster, have loads more torque, do at least an extra 10mpg and meet all of the emissions while running happily on the yet to be introduced E20 petrol 🤣

PS. Not sure about the magnet thing, but hey why not give it a go 🤣🤣🤣

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On a 1.0 ECOboost there is no benefit from the Turbosmart Boost Tee controller.

The Turbosmart Boost Tee controller is designed to work with a boost pressure controlled wastegate system. on such system the wastegate is normally closed and is opened by a certain amount of turbo pressure (boost operated).

The 1.0 ECOboost has a variable vacuum controlled wastegate system. On this system the wastegate is normally open. The wastegate is fully controlled by the PCM which continuously adjusts the position of the wastegate between 0% and 100% closed.

 

The Turbosmart recirculation valve however is highly recommendable on the 1.0 ECOboost. The Turbosmart recirculation valve is a direct high quality replacement for the rubbish original plastic/rubber recirculation valve (which often fails). The Turbosmart recirculation valve consists of a brass piston inside an aluminium housing. 

The Turbosmart recirculation valve offers a more precise control of boost recirculation when the throttle plate closes. This results in less loss of boost during switching gear. 

To be honest the Turbosmart recirculation valve was the best modification on my 1.0 ECOboost. It improved driveability quite a lot. Unfortunaltely Turbosmart does not make an upgraded recirculation valve for the 4-cilinder 1.5 ECOboost otherwise I would order immediately.

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Turbosmart recirculation valve could really solve the check engine issue?

Also could really increase power even just a bit?

Turbosmart boost tee is really so useless? It could not do anything?

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Turbosmart recirculation valve could increase boost?

Or it is only better than the original?

 

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What needed adjustment for the check engine light to go out?
Which DTC codes are stored?

I assume that the mechanic tampered with the adjustment of the wastegate since that is the only part that allows adjustment. The correct wastegate adjustment is set at the factory and should never be tampered with.

On the 1.0 ECOboost the wastegate is operated by vacuum. The vacuum source is the camshaft driven vacuum pump. Between the vacuum pump and the wastegate there is an electronic valve (the boost solenoid). The boost solenoid is fully controlled by the PCM by a PWM (pulse width modulated) signal. This allows variable control of the wastegate.

The check engine light is illuminated and a DTC code is generated when the PCM detects that the expected boost based on the PWM output signal does not correspond with the measured amount of boost. 

On the 1.0 ECOboost there a number of possible causes:

A defective vacuum pump (extremely common).
A defective boost solenoid (rare)
A defective vacuum line (rare)
A leaking mebrane of the wastegate actuator (rare)
Incorrect adjustment of the wastegate actuator (I have only seen this on cheap aftermarket turbochargers).
Mechanical damage of the wastegate mechanism (I have seen excessive play of the wastegate mechanism).


Proper diagnostics and investigation are needed to find the cause of the problem. 

 

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The car was in the workshop for about month (and more)

The smell canister was changed.

The vacuum pump was changed because there was a leak.

The turbocharger was changed because it was damaged.

 

Then after 10-20 minutes on the road and especially driving on hills check engine appeared.

The only thing that worked was that adjustement.

That is why he said the turbosmart tee is needed, because it is about to do the thing those metal layers are doing now. Increasing the boost.

 

Thank you so much for the information.

 

 

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Adjusting the mechanism or applying a 3rd party boost controller (which will not work) is just solving the symptoms instead of solving the problem. 

There is clearly something wrong. Instead of bringing the measured boost within tolerance with the expected boost your mechanic should investigate which part of the system is actually the problem. 

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The mechanic investigated the car for a month. There were no other problems or boost leaks.

He said that many times on many cars when a turbocharged is changed, it needs adjustment.

Also the exhaust is catback changed and has a free air intake system. Perhaps those affect the turbocharger?

 

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1 hour ago, JW1982 said:

Adjusting the mechanism or applying a 3rd party boost controller (which will not work) is just solving the symptoms instead of solving the problem.

Agree, but nothing else seems to be the prorblem. I will ask him again.

 

Turbosmart recirculation valve could increase boost?

Should it solve the problem as it is?

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I think that the thing which needs changing is the mechanic.

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That would probably be at least the start of solving the problem.

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Why many posts here are ironic?

This mechanic was the only one who solved the problem. I dont know if everything he has done is perfect, that is why i am seeking information here.

Anyway. Thank you.

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Not meant to be ironic but to be of any help I need much more details. Until now you didn't answer my questions:

 

Quote

The smell canister was changed.

This has nothing to do with the turbocharger system and is not relevant for solving the problem.

 

Quote

The vacuum pump was changed because there was a leak.

Was it a vacuum leak within the pump?

These pumps usually fail mechanically (lack of oil) or suffer from a defective check valve (which is quite common). 

Is the new vacuum pump checked for the correct amount of vacuum at all? 
 

Quote

The turbocharger was changed because it was damaged.

What was damaged on the original turbocharger?  (Bearings, vanes, somenthing else?). 

Is the new turbocharger a new original Continental turbocharger or an aftermarket or remanufactured turbocharger.

Is the new turbocharger the correct version for your type of engine? (Ford used at least 3 different Continental turbochargers for the different power output versions of the 1.0 ECOboost).
 

Quote

Then after 10-20 minutes on the road and especially driving on hills check engine appeared.

The only thing that worked was that adjustement.

Adjusting the wastegate may be the solution to the problem but to determine whether this is the right solution or not more details/answers are needed.


What needed adjustment for the check engine light to go out?
Which DTC codes are stored?
What was the problem with the original vacuum pump?

What was damaged on the original turbocharger?
What brand/type of turbocharger was installed?
Was the correct turbocharger installed for the type of engine?

What is the amount of vacuum of the original vacuum pump?
What is the amount of vacuum of the new vacuum pump?
Is the complete vacuum system (including the brake booster) checked for vacuum leaks?

Is the amount of vacuum that is needed to close the wastegate compared between both the original and new turbocharger? 

Is the car still remapped? (In which case it is highly recommended to remove the remap and start with original software to solve the problem).

 

If all parts of the system match their specifications there is no need to adjust anything. The wastegate is pre-adjusted at the factory and no further adjustment is required. Since Ford does not supply adjustment specifications the only way to check the adjustment is to compare it with a known good example (for example your original turbocharger). 

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It think that the wastegate was damaged on the original turbocharger. The turbocharger changed according the car's code. It is an aftermarket turbocharger as far as i know.

The error code was about low turbo pressure.

The original vacuum pump had a leak. The mechanic said that engine oil reached inside the turbocharger.

It is a complete vacuup pump system that costed about 245E.

The car is not tuned/remaped anymore. The tune/remap was unistalled before adjusting the turbocharger.

Also the exhaust is changed. It is a bit bigger that original. Catback. Free flow resonator and muffler.

Air intake system like ford focus rs with a Kn filter that has a hole on the side.

The mechanic said that many cars when turbocharged is changed need adjustment in order to work properly.

The smell canister was changed because right after the lpg system installation there was petroil smell in the cabin.

It took much time to find the cause of this problem.

Of course the lpg system was also unistalled.

That is all i know.

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That is the wastegate actuator.

By installing the washers the wastegate will close earlier and will open less far. Applying washers is by the way a botch job. The wastegate actuator has a threaded rod that can easily be adjusted.

You should only have the wategate actuator adjusted if you are 100% sure that the adjustment is the actual cause of the problem. Never adjust the wastegate actuator to compensate for shortcomings of a different part of the system.


I recommend to compare the wastegate adjustment of the new and the original turbocharger using a variable / adjustable vacuum source. If that test shows that the wastegate adjustment of the new turbocharger is wrong it can be adjusted. If the wastegate adjustment of the new turbocharger is not wrong you should never change the adjustment but search for the real cause of the problem.


I suspect that the vacuum is insufficient (defective pump or leak in the system). At low turbo boost the amount of vacuum is perfectly sufficient to close the wastegate. However when the boost increases (for example when driving on hills) the amount of vacuum is insufficient and the turbo pressure opens the wastegate.

At this point I suspect that further investigation is required. 

 

 

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Thank you for the reply.He said that he investigated it many times.

There was no other solution.

So could the turbosmart either the booster tee or the recirculation valve do anything?

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No, not for this problem.


The wastegate opens a passage at the exhaust inlet side of the turbocharger. When the wastegate is open the exhaust gasses are guided through the passage instead of driving the turbine wheel.

The Turbosmart Boost Tee controller is intended for a conventional boost controlled wastegate system. On such a system the wastegate is opened by turbo boost (the wastegate valve opens when the boost pressure equals the spring tension of the wastegate actuator). The Turbosmart Boost Tee controller allows to reduce the boost to the wastgate. This allows more boost before the wastegate opens.

The 1.0 ECOboost has a much more advanced variable vacuum controlled wastegate system. Installing The Turbosmart Boost Tee controller on a 1.0 ECOboost will result in a reduced vacuum.  On a normally open wastegate system (like the 1.0 ECOboost has) the reduced vacuum will result in the wastgate closing late or possibly not closing at all.

Installing the Turbosmart Boost Tee controller will basically result in totally the opposite of what the mechanic is trying to achieve.


The recirculation valve is installed at the intake outlet side of the turbocharger. The recirculation valve is controlled by vacuum inside the intake manifold. When the throttle plate suddenly closes the airflow stops and the turbocharger is still compressing air which increases boost pressure drastically. In this situation the recirculation valve opens and guides the charged air at the outlet side of the turbocharger back into the inlet side of the turbocharger. This prevents the turbocharger from stalling and also prevents damage to both the throttle plate and the turbocharger.

Despite not being related to your problem installing the Turbosmart recirculation valve is highly recommended.

 

 

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