Instrument Cluster failure

[fordfocus07]

Hi,

First of all I'm really sorry if this is the wrong section. I wasn't sure where to post it.

I was hoping you could help me and point me in the right direction over this fault? I think I know what the fault is as I've read this is a common fault with the Ford Focus (mine is a 2007) and I just need some confirmation that it sounds like the likely culprit.

My instrument cluster problems started in May. The immobiliser kicked in and I couldn't get the car to start. I've also had clutch pedal sensors and throttle pedal sensor faults along with the communication bus errors.

Took it to a garage and they've done what they usually do... Read some fault codes, replace the sensors then send me on my way, while charging me a load of money.

Got it out the garage and was driving it for five minutes the last time it was fixed and the IC fault happened again. This time it was more obvious because I lost revs, mph and all gauges. The whole dash lit up and it said "Power Steering Failure". I read online if you give the dash a smack then it comes back on, which everything did, but it went into Engine Systems Fault and Speed Limited Mode.

Took it back to the garage immediately and told them precisely what the fault was and that it probably needs soldering. They kept it for a week saying they only had one mechanic that knew how to do that and he was on holiday - I said to them give me the IC because I know someone who worked in the TV trade and I'll pay you the labour just to remove the thing and put it back for me... They refused reassuring me they know how to solder. OK, I thought. Ominously I got the car back and the invoice says "we cleaned it. If fault reappears bring it back."

Not a chance... And as you can guess the fault reappeared!

This time it's a bit worse. I have a video of the fault if that helps?

Please see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovB5e7o5_qA

 

Hitting the dash would only temporarily turn everything back on and it would go back to being broken again.

So a few questions:

• Does this definitely sound like an IC fault or am I barking up the wrong tree?
• What's the best guide to follow on an IC resolder and repair? I'm worried it might be a bit of a pain to get out and sort out.
• I noticed since they have had the instrument cluster out that I'm not getting a chime when an error like that happens - it happened as I was turning onto a 40mph road and not sure how long it was like that or whether I noticed it immediately. What will they have disturbed for this to happen?
• Do I need to have a code reader and app to reset the codes afterwards so I can get it out of limp mode? Or will it just do that automatically once everything is OK and refitted?

Thank you so much.

[unofix]

1 hour ago, fordfocus07 said:

Does this definitely sound like an IC fault or am I barking up the wrong tree?

YES !! (the fault that is, not the barking up the wrong tree. You probably should see a vet about that)

1 hour ago, fordfocus07 said:

What's the best guide to follow on an IC resolder and repair? I'm worried it might be a bit of a pain to get out and sort out.

Unless you are very good at soldering and have a good quality soldering iron with a very fine tip, I'd not recommend trying this at home. Send it away to a company that have all the gear and skill.

1 hour ago, fordfocus07 said:

I noticed since they have had the instrument cluster out that I'm not getting a chime when an error like that happens - it happened as I was turning onto a 40mph road and not sure how long it was like that or whether I noticed it immediately. What will they have disturbed for this to happen?

The little sounder is mounted on the back of the Instrument Cluster. They may well have just disturbed the solder joints (if you are lucky) or more worryingly they may have broken the sounder by spraying cleaning fluid or compressed air in to it. When you send it for repair be sure to tell them that the sounder is also not working so that they can test it and replace it if needed.

1 hour ago, fordfocus07 said:

Do I need to have a code reader and app to reset the codes afterwards so I can get it out of limp mode? Or will it just do that automatically once everything is OK and refitted?

Normally there should be no need to have to clear the codes when you get the IC back from repair. It would however be a good thing to clear all the old stored DTC's to make future fault finding easier. You can use the software FORScan (It's free) and a vLinker FS connecting lead (£34)

FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS cable: https://www.obd2shop.co.uk/wholesale/vgate-vlinker-fs-elm327-for-ford.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwgaeYBhBAEiwAvMgp2nWc6c7UXHdFyYcwK7z6eVoVBXvykEOqHaZAdAa1pQdvKrBr_NT54hoCTJwQAvD_BwE

[fordfocus07]

Thank you for your help.

To update, we found some guides and did it ourselves. It was completely fine as the person who I know worked soldering his whole career (not just TVs but smaller items like miniature hearing aids) so had all the kit required. There were a couple of the soldering points that looked dodgy to him when he looked under his magnifier but he re soldered all the main ones that go to the connector. He said that he doubt that the garage even cleaned it or did anything of note to it which is concerning and I've already said I'm going to find a different garage to go to from now on!

The only really annoying part of the whole process was the gauges. We marked them all before hand but when putting the plastic cover back on we kept accidentally nudging them so had to keep putting them back. Other than that it was a far simpler process than I anticipated!

Anyway, got everything back in the car, no more problems like in the video I posted, but have an engine management light that is on so I've ordered that lead you suggested and will check it out via Forscan to see what it says before taking it to a garage or anything. I have a list of the faults this used to throw up so I hope it's just something to do with that, fingers crossed. But otherwise engine is no longer in limp mode, power steering fine, gave the dash a good few hits and the IC wasn't intermittently turning off.

Oh, yes, I also found out what was wrong with the chime... I stupidly forgot to re-set it in the menu after the garage had it as they'd disconnected the battery. Silly me!

So, yes, thank you for your help @unofix!!!

[Jimpster]

being as your a 2007 you'd get away with the cheaper modified usb cable, just to save you a couple of quid, and you may or may not need a FORscan extended licence.

[StephenFord]

You gotta wonder what your garage did when they said, 'cleaned it', LOL I'm not sure a going over the cluster with glass cleaner counts!

[unofix]

56 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

I'm not sure a going over the cluster with glass cleaner counts!

Stephen you're being extravagant again, the price of glass cleaner.

What you need is a tin of this......

[fordfocus07]

Haha, you're probably right you know. I wouldn't put it past them. Spoke to someone else that had some issues with this garage and got a recommendation for another one so it will be going there in the future.

So it looks like I might be waiting on the scanner lead for a little while so I did a little digging and googling. Nevermind. It's handy to have and can also be used in the 2017 Kuga as well I'm guessing! Anyway, left the car idling for 15 minutes, no change in engine light. Cycled ignition few times, same thing.

Noticed my speedo and revs are a bit off (Doing about -7.5mph at 0 and at 400 rpm. I think not! Probably nudged them when getting the plastic cover back on - they are so sensitive) I didn't know about getting into the debug mode via the reset button and turning the car on... So did that, did a gauge sweep. But cycled through the options and it came up with a DTC code and only one which was D900.

I turned the car off, started it again and the light is now off. Hooray! Not sure whether that fixed it or not but going to see what happens from now on in and scan it properly when I get the scanner in the post.

So would the D900 be related to the battery being disconnected? When we first reconnected it, the car was initially a little stubborn to start for whatever reason but starts absolutely fine now.

Or could the D900 be related to the IC faults and mean there's something still going on there?

First things first though... I need to fix those gauges!

[Jimpster]

clear the DTC and use the car, then rescan see if it comes back. A lot of people struggle with the guage needles after disassembly, either getting them to read right or sweep properly. Atleast the dreaded lights off, hopefully its sorted. The needle could be one or 2 splines out.

 

[StephenFord]

7 minutes ago, Jimpster said:

 A lot of people struggle with the guage needles after disassembly, either getting them to read right...

20 years ago I took the needles of my gauges to fit some trendy 'white dials'. I spent weeks trying to get them to read properly again, even quite harrowingly driving at 30mph, using my SatNav for accuracy, and trying to press the needle back on the correct reading LOL Anyway, it's a brave thing to remove the needles, I know I would never do it again!

[fordfocus07]

It's a right pain! Was going to try running it with the GPS anyway once I get the needles in a good position to double check the speed even though that's not 100% fool proof either but it's a little bit of reassurance and better than nothing. I wouldn't want to accidentally go too fast through a speed camera!

Also will do so on the DTC codes whenever I get the reader through. Thanks guys.

[Eric Bloodaxe]

16 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

Anyway, it's a brave thing to remove the needles, I know I would never do it again!

+1. Been there, done that, wished I hadn't!😀

[TomsFocus]

27 minutes ago, StephenFord said:

20 years ago I took the needles of my gauges to fit some trendy 'white dials'. 

I had a 306 with a set of Lockwood white dials around 10 years ago.  Amazed to see you can still buy them!  

306 Dials. For Diesel Model with Oil Gauge. WITH DIGITAL MILEAGE WINDOW. Part No. 44RR – Lockwood International

[StephenFord]

6 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I had a 306 with a set of Lockwood white dials around 10 years ago.  Amazed to see you can still buy them!  

306 Dials. For Diesel Model with Oil Gauge. WITH DIGITAL MILEAGE WINDOW. Part No. 44RR – Lockwood International

Just checked for mine (Celica GT4 ST205 LED backlit with changing colour), can't see them anywhere, all the boy racers of that car must now be dead LOL

[StephenFord]

For the sake of nostalgia, just came across these old pics LOL

[simon401982]

1 hour ago, StephenFord said:

For the sake of nostalgia, just came across these old pics LOL

for more sake, l had a Hyundai accent MVi and it had white dials with blue backlit as standard!, it was the coolest thing on the car, everybody commented about the clocks, think they all thought l'd done them myself!!..

[Jimpster]

I was going to change the SMD's on mine but dont think i'll bother now if i have to strip it down for access.

[DaveT70]

Search, "MK2 Focus instrument cluster repair" on eBay and send it off to be fixed.

 

[StephenFord]

55 minutes ago, Jimpster said:

I was going to change the SMD's on mine but dont think i'll bother now if i have to strip it down for access.

As you can see from my1st photo, all the gauges were 'wired' so that the inbuilt LED background could actually change colour by a rotary control - it was really cool!

[fordfocus07]

Sorted out the dials today, looked at the codes with forscan... From what I could see they were all ones related to the IC fault, reset them, only one came up which has been a fault on the car since 2019 which I'll get into in a little bit and is nothing major (but would like to look into fixing myself if possible!)

Took the car for a drive with GPS. Speedo was spot on once I held it at the correct speeds and engine light didn't come back on.

Now for the one fault... Ever since I got the car there's a radio volume control attachment that's on the steering wheel that doesn't work. All the attachment does is turn the volume of the radio up/down - nothing massive of course and not too fussed about it as far as the car goes. Forscan picks this up as a DTC error when I scan through. Anyone with any ideas on how to go about fixing that or what to look at in particular? Apologies as I didn't put the error code in here but if you need it I'll go check what it is tomorrow :).

[Jimpster]

Is it not a faulty control module on the steering wheel, give it a blast with some electrical contact cleaner, or grab one off a scrapper.

[fordfocus07]

I thought I'd give a quick update.

Nearly 6 months on the car still runs absolutely fine. No repeat of the problem. No engine light after clearing it that one time.

If anyone picks this thread up in a search later then it's not too bad of a job to do it yourself. If like me you can't solder then get someone who has experience in it! The biggest pain of the fix is aligning the needles again. There are guides on YouTube for other makes/models that gives you a rough idea of what's involved with all of this.

It takes roughly 2-3 hours if doing it all yourself. It'll be quicker if you know your way about.

It's well worth it because the car is back to normal and all those random faults you might have been suffering will go. I'll leave the YouTube vid in my original post for anyone in the future if they need something to compare it to :).

Ciao! (Until I run into another problem which touch wood is never :D)

[Jimpster]

THere are 2 guys out in WWWW. land who are the recommended go to's. One is Ollie Jones, the other Richard  Aron Beetwell, Richard has a way of zero-ing the clocks so theres no need to find a lower mileage set. You can travel to both or post. My original red 2.0 lcd went belly up, fitted a 2.5 set took about 10 minutes. HTH someone.