KUGA 2010 - Titanium TDCI 2.0 163 - AWD - Engine Malfunction Warning

[unofix]

Hi Guys, just after a bit of confirmation of the following problem on my daughters Kuga with 50120 miles. Has just come up tonight with the red warning triangle "Engine Malfunction" the car is still driving fine and is not in limp mode.

P2456:92-2F

P2452:12-27

P2452-P

U1900-20

FORScan diagnostics below.

Do you think I'm right to assume that this is going to be just a faulty Particulate Pressure Sensor ?

[Tizer]

That does seem likely, either that or the wiring to the Sensor.

I would bring up the Differential Pressure in Live Data and see what it says before starting and running and take things from there, and give the wiring a good wiggle to see if that kick starts things or makes them worse.

[unofix]

Thanks for the reply @Tizer I'll check out live data in the morning.

 

This is the link to Kuga exhaust system.

https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/56/code.ar,1.19571,2.42772,4.28899,6.42250,7.6034,10.16271,12.37222,13.32959,15.37658/26/1562/15611/68185/#5H209B

Am I right to suspect that the sensor is ident (5H209B) Ford part 1786775 ?

[Tizer]

8 hours ago, unofix said:

Thanks for the reply @Tizer I'll check out live data in the morning.

 

This is the link to Kuga exhaust system.

https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/56/code.ar,1.19571,2.42772,4.28899,6.42250,7.6034,10.16271,12.37222,13.32959,15.37658/26/1562/15611/68185/#5H209B

Am I right to suspect that the sensor is ident (5H209B) Ford part 1786775 ?

That seems to be the correct part and they are not very expensive.

I don't have a wiring diagram for that car but at a guess and following convention, the middle pin is probably the Signal wire if you feel like checking the wiring out after you look at what the Live Data says.

[Frembrit]

Looks like pressure sensor to me. I changed the pressure sensor on my friends 2010 Kuga a few years ago, although it also knocked out the Haldex unit due to multiple failed regens. I just happened ot have a spare used sensor as I replaced it on my Mondeo when I was troubleshooting dpf problems. Same part and it's mounted on the side of the battery box on the Kuga, which made it easy.

[unofix]

Well good news (I think).

Finally got the new DPF sensor today and fitted it, which took only about 20 minutes. I cleared the DTC's and reset the DPF learnt values. Then off for a half hour drive on the motorway at between 60 and 70mph.

Took a couple of photos of the live data (ones a bit out of focus 😧). The car seems happy 🎉 and no EML or warning bing-bongs. 

[Tizer]

3 hours ago, unofix said:

Well good news (I think).

Finally got the new DPF sensor today and fitted it, which took only about 20 minutes. I cleared the DTC's and reset the DPF learnt values. Then off for a half hour drive on the motorway at between 60 and 70mph.

Took a couple of photos of the live data (ones a bit out of focus 😧). The car seems happy 🎉 and no EML or warning bing-bongs. 

That's good news and not that expensive a fix.

I don't know how high the Differential Pressure went when driving at the end of the journey but I would say that she needs to do a bit more driving to get the DPF cleaned out a bit more, 0.4 at Idle is ok but a bit on the high side and the Implied Soot and Ash levels are a little high as well.

You could probably do a Static Regeneration but it would be better to just let it happen naturally while driving.

[unofix]

It's back again 🙁

Same as last time so beginning to think it may actually be the DPF that needs replaced !!

Any recommendations on what makes offer best value for money ?

[RL123]

Have you checked the BCM/Fusebox for dampness/corrosion and has the cluster been resoldered?. Just a long shot to rule out.

[Tizer]

3 hours ago, unofix said:

It's back again 🙁

Same as last time so beginning to think it may actually be the DPF that needs replaced !!

If the Codes are the same as before then they suggest either a duff DPF Sensor or the wiring to it rather than a fault with the DPF.

I would look at the Live Data from the Differential Pressure Sensor while driving normally to see if it throws any light on the matter. It would be best to bring up the RPM, Speed, Accelerator Position, MAP and Mass Airflow as well to see if everything is doing what it should.

[unofix]

Thanks John @Tizer

Since last time I now have my little plug in vLinker FD that will make it easier to monitor live data. The car is not mine (although back in 2010 it used to be) but my daughters, so I will have to wait to the weekend before carrying out a proper investigation.

Sometimes I feel like it's one step forward and two back. I've only just finished installing the passenger airbag deactivation switch and getting that to work properly. It's a good car and always been in the family so I know it has always been looked after but as the years roll on I suppose it's inevitable that problems will occur. 

One point is that the sensor was an eBay item. Maybe I should use a genuine Ford part ?

[TomsFocus]

I wonder if it's as simple as a loose plug?  Would try cable tieing or taping it together for a few days.

Also worth checking the pressure pipes for any small splits though it does look more like an electrical fault.

I'd be very surprised if it was the DPF itself.  Coated DPFs are much more robust than the Eolys type.

 

[unofix]

10 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

I'd be very surprised if it was the DPF itself.

To be honest Tom so would I, and here's hoping that its not. It could be a split / damaged / corroded pipe. I'll have to get under the car a take a proper look at the weekend. The two rubber pipes from the sensor are so far back in the engine bay it's difficult to get a good look at them.

This is what I fitted last time: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223550826767

 

[TomsFocus]

Yeah, the pipes are much easier to check on the 1.6.

That sensor doesn't look genuine to me.  Does your Mk4 use a compatible sensor?  Could always try swapping them for a few days if so.

[Tizer]

The car sounds like a good workhorse and it would make sense to fix it rather than trying to replace it unless money is no object.

The FORScan Phone App is Ideal for the diagnosis of problems like this. The Differential Pressure should be steady when the Engine Load is steady including at Idle and steady load running. If it is jumping about or going to zero then there is something wrong.

I agree with @TomsFocus regarding the pipes and wiring. If you can it would be worth giving them the wiggle test with a stick if necessary if they are accessible.

[RL123]

Does anybody know why the event time in the dtcs is in the year 2036?  I’ve seen this on other post but still a mystery?

[Tizer]

3 minutes ago, RL123 said:

Does anybody know why the event time in the dtcs is in the year 2036?  I’ve seen this on other post but still a mystery?

It's a fault on FORScan's side. It may be fixed in the latest version, I'm not sure.

[RL123]

Just been reading the posted dtcs above and trying to understand them. I could be wrong but the error seems to have been generated during engine crank. If this is the case, the voltage could have dropped below acceptable voltage for the ecu .

I have read of battery lead problems on the mk1. Just a thought

[unofix]

3 minutes ago, RL123 said:

I could be wrong but the error seems to have been generated during engine crank. If this is the case, the voltage could have dropped below acceptable voltage for the ecu .

Why do you think that ?

The module voltage was 14.3V at the time.

[RL123]

No   Engine running

yes engine crank

Rpm. 798 

vss vehicle speed 0.0

14.3   Control module voltage (actual voltage ?)

as I said, I’m trying to understand the dtcs in Forscan so could well be wrong.