NO FOOT WELL LIGHTS

[Jonny1983]

Hi everyone I've a MK3 63 plate Focus 1.0 ecoboost  and I've noticed that there's housings for foot well lights but no lights. Can someone please help me to the reason why? And is there a way possibly that the wiring is about somewhere?

Many thanks

Jonny.

[anon]

Probably a base model. Probably does not have wiring for them.

[Jonny1983]

arghh is there any other way of fitting some? Dont really wanna bodge it if i can.

[anon]

Wiring it in one's self is not necessarily bodgery. They come on with the interior lighting so there needs to be a wire from that to the footwell and another from the footwell to earth. Think what other  things are driven off the interior lights to find the nearest point to splice in.

[Jonny1983]

True! I've watched some Youtube videos with different variations like strip lights and extending the wires up the A pillar and through the roof lining to the courtesy light.

[StephenFord]

2 hours ago, Jonny1983 said:

...And is there a way possibly that the wiring is about somewhere?

I copied this from a post I saw on here a few years back, sorry I can't credit the original poster, but maybe it is of some help...

Fitting footwell lights...

The best way to fit them is to wire from the courtesy light to the driver’s side footwell first then take a parallel feed off to the passenger side by running the wires behind the footwell kick panels from driver’s footwell to passengers footwell.
Running the wires from the light to the driver’s footwell takes a bit of effort but is straightforward.
Pop out the courtesy light and let it hang on it’s wires for now.
Unscrew and remove the driver’s side sun blind to allow the headlining to be pulled about a bit.
Pull back the driver’s side rubber door seal near the door hinge from midway to up near where the grab handle would be if they were fitted on both sides.
Using a Torx screwdriver undo the screw holding the panel below the headlight control switch and carefully let it down so as to not pull the wires on the OBD socket.
Run a length of wire from the courtesy light housing across above the roof behind the headliner and down the A pillar (easily tucked away now the door rubber is out of the way), leave a bit of cable length by the courtesy light to allow for wiring and pulling the light out for removal at a later date.
Run the wire along the bracing pipe under the dash, putting a couple of cable ties in place to hold it steady until you reach the first bulb holder position.
You can, at this point replace the sun blind, OBD panel, and door rubber trim you previously removed.
Cut the wire to length allowing spare for ease of wiring, and strip about 5–8 mm of bare wire for ***** into a choc block connector and twist the exposed wire to make a nice firm tail for ease of wiring.
Cut a pair of choc block connectors off the strip and screw onto the twisted tails.
Strip and twist the end of the spare wire you cut off and along with the tails of the bulb holder wires screw them into the other side of the choc block.
Remove the lower footwell panels on either side of the centre console at this point, one screw on the driver’s side and two on the passenger’s side, all Torx and under pop out covers.
Run the wire from the driver’s footwell to the passenger’s footwell so that when the panels are replaced the wiring will be concealed.
Run the wire to the passenger side bulb position and strip as before and again using another pair of choc block connectors, attach the holder to the wire.
At this point I recommend plugging in a pair of standard 501 bulbs so that the wiring can be checked without worrying about the fact LED Bulbs are polarity specific and can confuse the next phase of the job.
Next bit is to power up the new circuit and check the wiring and connections.
Using a Scotchlock, attach one wire to the wire at the courtesy light with the single connector on the end of it.
You don’t need to strip the wire at all, just slip the Scotchlock over the existing wire, put the new wire into the second channel of the Scotchlock and squeeze in the metal blade bit with pliers so that the blade cuts the insulation bridging the connection between the wires, clip over the plastic cover to lock everything in place.
On the other side of the circuit you have two wires to choose from, one is the permanent feed for map lights and position 2 of the main light switch, the other is the switched feed from the door latches and ignition, this is the one you need to identify.
Bare the end of the wire so that you have enough to make contact with the inside of the connectors.
Pull off the double connector and touch each in turn until you can tell which one works only when the door is open, if the courtesy light has timed out due to the door being open for a while just close and re-open the door to reset the timer.
If you’re still not sure which is which then close the doors and try again, the one that does not activate the new loom when all doors are closed and the courtesy light has extinguished is the one you need.
To speed up the lights going off, turn the ignition key to I to time the circuit out.
Cut the stripped bit off the end of the new wire to avoid the risk of shorts to any metal parts and attach the loom to the correctly identified wire using a Scotchlock as before.
Locate the bulb holders into their positions (can be fiddly) by twisting to lock into place.
Cable tie where appropriate to avoid strain on the new loom and wrap some insulating tape around any joins for strength and to avoid possible shorts.
Replace the footwell panels and courtesy light.
Once you are sure that the new footwell lights work ok then fit your LED Bulbs, it’s easier to do when you know that all circuits work properly.
Remember that the LED Bulbs are polarity specific so if they don’t work first time just remove them from the holders and rotate the bulbs 180 degrees.

[Jonny1983]

True! I've watched some Youtube videos with different variations like strip lights and extending the wires up the A pillar and through the roof lining to the courtesy light.

Thank you StephenFord the instructions seem pretty straight forward from the original poster. My only query is I'm assuming he/she is not talking about led strip lights? Just wondering if you perhaps know this or not?

Many thanks

Jon.

[Jonny1983]

Thank you StephenFord the instructions seem pretty straight forward from the original poster. My only query is I'm assuming he/she is not talking about led strip lights? Just wondering if you perhaps know this or not?

Many thanks

Jon.

[StephenFord]

28 minutes ago, Jonny1983 said:

My only query is I'm assuming he/she is not talking about led strip lights? Just wondering if you perhaps know this or not?

No fancy LED strips, just a simple standard bulb holder fitted with 501 (T10) LED Bulbs...

[Jonny1983]

Argh ok where would be the best place to purchase those?

[anon]

Want me to Google that for you?

[Jonny1983]

Ok if you don't mind Anon?

[eddie eastwood]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=501+(T10)+LED+bulbs...+&_sacat=0

[Jonny1983]

Nice one eddie thank you!

[Jonny1983]

Does anyone know what wires i need to tap into or can I go off from the fuse box? There's 4 wires coming from the dome light and I have no idea which is which.