DIY Ecoboost Timing Belt Change

[MJNewton]

My wife's 2013 1L Ecoboost is now coming up for its 10yr anniversary and whilst it's only done 70k miles it nevertheless is soon due a new timing belt.

I've changed a few dry timing belts in the past and whilst I've approached the job with some trepidation I've just taken my time, worked methodically and managed to work my way through. Tackling it on the Ecoboost though is more daunting to me than ever, but then so is spending over a grand getting someone else to do it!

So, I am looking to build some confidence and wanted to ask you all who's tackled it themselves? How did you find it? Any tips/suggestions (including 'dont do it' if need be!) than you'd share?

I see you can get locking too kit for around £65 now which, whilst I'm sure they might not be the quality of the £600-or-whatever real deal should surely be good enough for a single job. Regarding the torque multiplier I'm not sure about that - worst case scenario I might just wing it with a long breaker and tighten it as tight as I possibly can and hope for the best, unless of course someone can advise something better? I've seen 300Nm plus 90 degrees suggested which is at least a target to aim for.

[unofix]

I could be wrong but I would think that most professional Ford trained mechanics would advise you against doing it yourself.

Given the fact that the vast majority of independent garages, even those specialising  in replacing timing belts refuse to have anything to do with the 1.0 Ecoboost wetbelt. That would tell me that they consider the work involved just not worth the risk.

With out access to a lift and the infamous toque multiplier as well as other specialist workshop tools you are going to be at a major disadvantage. Even a Ford main dealer with all the equipment, training, experience and a full workshop take around 10 hours, and that's with out seized up bolts and snapped studs.

[MarksST]

25 minutes ago, MJNewton said:

My wife's 2013 1L Ecoboost is now coming up for its 10yr anniversary and whilst it's only done 70k miles it nevertheless is soon due a new timing belt.

I've changed a few dry timing belts in the past and whilst I've approached the job with some trepidation I've just taken my time, worked methodically and managed to work my way through. Tackling it on the Ecoboost though is more daunting to me than ever, but then so is spending over a grand getting someone else to do it!

So, I am looking to build some confidence and wanted to ask you all who's tackled it themselves? How did you find it? Any tips/suggestions (including 'dont do it' if need be!) than you'd share?

I see you can get locking too kit for around £65 now which, whilst I'm sure they might not be the quality of the £600-or-whatever real deal should surely be good enough for a single job. Regarding the torque multiplier I'm not sure about that - worst case scenario I might just wing it with a long breaker and tighten it as tight as I possibly can and hope for the best, unless of course someone can advise something better? I've seen 300Nm plus 90 degrees suggested which is at least a target to aim for.

Doesn’t look like something for a DIYer, looks like you need to take the engine out to get the belt cover off for a start.

 

[MJNewton]

3 minutes ago, unofix said:

I could be wrong but I would think that most professional Ford trained mechanics would advise you against doing it yourself.

Given the fact that the vast majority of independent garages, even those specialising  in replacing timing belts refuse to have anything to do with the 1.0 Ecoboost wetbelt. That would tell me that they consider the work involved just not worth the risk.

With out access to a lift and the infamous toque multiplier as well as other specialist workshop tools you are going to be at a major disadvantage. Even a Ford main dealer with all the equipment, training, experience and a full workshop take around 10 hours, and that's with out seized up bolts and snapped studs.

It might sound perverse logic but it is the very fact that professional mechanics seem to fear this job that is actually pushing me *more* towards doing it myself. Such hesitancy on their part is surely going to lead to inflated quotes and perhaps even lack of experience if not commonly done.

The timing aspect doesn't bother me too much as we've got another car we can use so it's more about the difficulty level and whether once started I'll be able to see the job through to completion.

And, yes, I would be doing it on stands-on-the-drive which is already steepening the difficulty curve. That's partly why I wanted to reach out to others that have done it (surely some here must've done?) and whether they accomplished it in a conventional home-setup like mine that might be fairly typical.

[MJNewton]

22 minutes ago, MarksST said:

Doesn’t look like something for a DIYer, looks like you need to take the engine out to get the belt cover off for a start.

Whilst they removed the engine I don't believe it is necessary - perhaps despite having to disconnect more things it might make things easier overall though so could always be an option (I've got a hoist). I'll certainly do some further exploration of that though so thanks as it is not something I'd considered. I suppose it might make torquing back up more difficult given that the engine wouldn't be held so securely although some inventiveness and creativity might be able to solve that one!

[unofix]

If anyone can help and give real life tips it will be @RayC333 he fully rebuilt a 1.0 Ecoboost engine (twice).

On 8/19/2022 at 3:44 PM, RayC333 said:

The work I carried out required a timing belt, oil pump belt, crankshaft, piston, conrod, main bearings, big-end bearings, front and rear crankshaft seals, crank bolt, friction washer, turbocharger, turbo oil filter, head gasket set, head bolts, vacuum pump and a couple of cooling system parts. 

I don't know if other parts are different part numbers but all the (genuine Ford) parts were the same part number, pattern parts fitted either variant and even the brand new turbo (Nissens) listed the same part number for either.

Good luck on your project, you may be fortunate catching the issue early and not require multiple parts.

Lucky or not I would offer the following advice:

If re-using the oil pump, be absolutely meticulous clearing the pump oil strainer gauze. Apart from the obvious debris, some fibres are very difficult to see and dislodge in the mesh.

Check for any blockage in the oil system PCV. It has a fine gauze filter.

Ditto the vacuum pump, similar tiny gauze filter. May prevent future pump bearing failure.

Ditto the turbo filter in the engine block (readily accessible behind a screwed plug when the belts are removed). Cheap to replace if necessary. May prevent future turbo bearing failure.

Why all this debris can get past the oil filter is a mystery to me but I can testify it can and does, to great cost!

 

[MarksST]

19 minutes ago, MJNewton said:

Whilst they removed the engine I don't believe it is necessary - perhaps despite having to disconnect more thing it makes things easier overall though so could always be an option (I've got a hoist). I'll certainly do some further exploration of that though so thanks as it is not something I'd considered. I suppose it might make torqueing back up more difficult given that the engine would be held so securely although some inventiveness and creativity might be able to solve that one!

You’ll have to think about it as the belt cover is part of the engine mount, you need enough space to pull it off and space to get tools in to take the parts off before you can take the cover off.

[Hackney]

I would NOT change one myself.Find yourself a specialist who changes these on a regular basis.You also need specialist tools. I would actually move the vehicle on.(personal op only.)

[Henryge]

Hi There, Just got my fiesta 2011 done 1.25cc but dry belt 90,000 on the clock. Had a look on u tube quite a lot of work involved to get to the cambelt. So found local Ford independent garage to do the job. Then got phone call to say water pump leaking said go ahead, Started in the morning finished late afternoon same day with water pump having to be ordered, Gave me the old parts water pump was rough turning bearings worn. And cambelt quite stiff also tensioner and bolt changed. He said he gets lots of fiesta wet cambelt changes which are alot more expensive. Garages have all equipment to do these jobs safely. If you still want to do it your self check out u tube for a step by step change over.

                                     Hope that helps Henry

[MJNewton]

Thanks for all the input everyone. Definitely a common theme coming across! If anyone has a counter view from having done it themselves it'd be great to hear, even if it might be to add to the recommendations not to tackle it!

1 hour ago, Henryge said:

Hi There, Just got my fiesta 2011 done 1.25cc but dry belt 90,000 on the clock. Had a look on u tube quite a lot of work involved to get to the cambelt. So found local Ford independent garage to do the job. Then got phone call to say water pump leaking said go ahead, Started in the morning finished late afternoon same day with water pump having to be ordered, Gave me the old parts water pump was rough turning bearings worn. And cambelt quite stiff also tensioner and bolt changed. He said he gets lots of fiesta wet cambelt changes which are alot more expensive. Garages have all equipment to do these jobs safely. If you still want to do it your self check out u tube for a step by step change over.

My first belt change was actually on the 1.25L, and whilst it was admittedly nerve wracking at the time to be cutting my teeth on a keyless crank once I'd done it and the car worked again I looked back and couldn't help but think that the dangers of DIY timing belt were overblown. Not that the consequences of getting it wrong weren't catastrophic but more that if you religiously follow the process you'll be fine and so it should perhaps be viewed more as something to respect than fear.

I'll keep an eye and ear out for others having done it, and I see there are a few videos showing the process (one on someone's drive which was reassuring!) on Youtube beginning to appear now and presumably there'll be more to come.

Cheers everyone!

[RayC333]

Hi, sorry slow to respond.

Belt can be changed with the engine in situ but is far easier with engine out. Reasons a) More room to manoeuvre (small gap between belt cover and bulkhead) - hence easier to access (and record) multiple (different length) bolts, clean off and re-apply sealant etc. b) I personally couldn't undo the crankshaft bolt using a very long extension bar (couldn't get car raised enough, too much bend in the bar); I'm fairly strong.

If you really want to try, buy the cheap timing kit (it worked for me) and see if you can loosen the crankshaft bolt without a multiplier. If yes, take your time, be methodical. Use a friction washer behind the crankshaft pulley to prevent risk of slippage (available at a Ford dealer or on ebay). Tighten a new bolt as close to 300nm + 90 deg. as you can. Hope for the best! Good luck.

[MJNewton]

Thanks @RayC333 - really appreciate your input. I am definitely going to go ahead with DIYing this, so it really is a question of exactly how so first-hand experience is particularly helpful. 

I can totally see that removing the engine would make access, disassembly and reassembly so much easier. I was also considering replacing the clutch at some point so I could always take advantage of the engine being out to do that too. 

The loosening/tightening of the crank bolt though and particular tips there? I had assumed that the engine being out might make that harder as how did you prevent the engine moving around with such high torques and long bars being used? I thought at least with the engine in the car it's not going anywhere so all torque available will be transferred. 

With all the money I'd be saving I figured I could buy (or even hire?) a beefy impact gun to at least remove the bolt, assuming it is accessible from the wheel well with the engine still in situ. Tightening it again, well, that'd remain an outstanding issue. 

Thanks again! 

 

[RayC333]

I tried the 

14 hours ago, MJNewton said:

The loosening/tightening of the crank bolt though and particular tips there? I had assumed that the engine being out might make that harder as how did you prevent the engine moving around with such high torques and long bars being used? I thought at least with the engine in the car it's not going anywhere so all torque available will be transferred. 

With all the money I'd be saving I figured I could buy (or even hire?) a beefy impact gun to at least remove the bolt, assuming it is accessible from the wheel well with the engine still in situ. Tightening it again, well, that'd remain an outstanding issue. 

Thanks again! 

 

I tried loosening the bolt whilst the engine was still in the car using a quality 3/4 ins drive ratchet and long steel pipe loaned to me by a local workshop. Despite being robust it still bent significantly. One can only raise the car so far at home; I found there was insufficient clearance under the car (between floor and front bumper area) to free the bolt and I felt I was close to breaking the ratchet! Having said all that there are a couple of examples that I've seen online where people claim to have removed the bolt (in situ and with the engine out) without a multiplier. One can only try.

There is definitely no room to use an impact gun on the Focus (and it would need to be an industrial version rather than DIY gun to deliver the necessary torque). Haven't personally seen a Fiesta crank bolt from the wheel well. I'm told there is more of a gap than the Focus but I suspect there would still be insufficient axial access.

[MJNewton]

Thanks again @RayC333. All useful input.

I'll have to take a look re access to the crank bolt from the wheel well as whilst most (all?) cars I've seen it is possible I can't ignore the fact that changing the timing belt on most cars isn't all that difficult and so the fact it is on these engines is a reminder that we're not talking 'most' cars here! 

[Eatonm112]

With the engine in the car and no lift its a tough job to get the crank bolt undone. I had a test engine and a 3/4 Makita inpact gun and it really took a beating before coming undone. If you are going to do it with the engine in the car youll want a 3/4 breaker bar along with a long pole to get more leverage on the breaker bar and dont forget to lock up the flywheel first.

[MJNewton]

Thanks @Eatonm112. The impact gun isn't sounding too hopeful by the sounds of it, and I imagine a 3/4" Makita is likely to have 1000Nm+ of breakaway torque so a fair bit higher than the 500Nm or so that I was expecting, based purely on a finger-in-the-air estimate of the 300Nm tightening torque + 90 degree stretch and a bit of corrosion thrown in for good measure!

Okay, back to the drawing board and perhaps engine out afterall. 

[Eatonm112]

3 hours ago, MJNewton said:

Thanks @Eatonm112. The impact gun isn't sounding too hopeful by the sounds of it, and I imagine a 3/4" Makita is likely to have 1000Nm+ of breakaway torque so a fair bit higher than the 500Nm or so that I was expecting, based purely on a finger-in-the-air estimate of the 350Nm tightening torque + 90 degree stretch and a bit of corrosion thrown in for good measure!

Okay, back to the drawing board and perhaps engine out afterall. 

I didnt have the flywheel locking tool on that engine if I did I am sure the Makita would have done it with less bother.

[MJNewton]

9 minutes ago, Eatonm112 said:

I didnt have the flywheel locking tool on that engine if I did I am sure the Makita would have done it with less bother.

Ah okay, that's good to know. That could well have been an issue as the effectiveness of an impact wrench is seriously undermined if there's any give in what you're undoing.