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Elm327 Mini + forscan lite, turn off airbag light?


johnjohn10
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I have a bluetooth elm327 mini and was going to buy forscan lite to operate on the elm327 mini to try and turn off an airbag warning light, would this combination work to do that? 

 

Thank you. 

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15 minutes ago, johnjohn10 said:

I have a Bluetooth elm327 mini and was going to buy forscan lite to operate on the elm327 mini to try and turn off an airbag warning light, would this combination work to do that? 

 

Thank you. 

Download the free Demo version before you buy the paid for version to see if your Adaptor is compatible with FORScan, a lot of them other than the two recommended ones either don't work with FORScan or don't work properly. https://forscan.org/download.html

You won't be able to do anything with the Demo version other than check your Adaptor. 

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1 hour ago, Tizer said:

Download the free Demo version before you buy the paid for version to see if your Adaptor is compatible with FORScan, a lot of them other than the two recommended ones either don't work with FORScan or don't work properly. https://forscan.org/download.html

You won't be able to do anything with the Demo version other than check your Adaptor. 

Ah thanks I'll do that. 

I messaged tunnelrat website and was recommended a usb device that I would buy if it definitely will clear the light, do you know if the USB with windows and forscan will clear the light off for sure? 

I've been trying to clear it by disconnecting my battery to reset the ecu but it's not working. I've left it disconnected for 24 hours even connected the positive cable to ground with both disconnected from the battery to discharge the capacitors, but the ecu doesn't get reset, anyone know why that might be? It's a 08 tdci Ford galaxy. 

 

Thank you! 

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The Windows version and the Phone versions of FORScan are exactly the same when it comes to reading and clearing codes and reading Live Data.

Tunnelrats did do a Wi-Fi Adaptor that could be used for the phone versions of FORScan but I think it is discontinued now because the quality of the chips that are being supplied for Wi-Fi Adaptors generally has gone downhill.

If you clear the Code(s) that are/is causing the light to go on it will only stay off if the fault that caused it/them to come on is no longer present.

My advice would be to at least read the codes to see what they are, then clear them and see if they come back on and whether there is a trigger for them to come on if they don't come on right away.

You may be able to access a certain amount of Live Data in the ABS Module that may throw some light on what the problem is.

Have a read here on how to use FORScan   https://forscan.org/documentation_13.html

 

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Firstly, you need to understand the following: The light is shown (obviously) due to a problem having been detected by the car's computer systems. Every problem they can detect has an associated error code (DTC). The computer modules keep a list of codes for problems they have detected, and tools like those you refer to can access this list to help you identify what is wrong. Some codes also result in a warning light being shown. Clearing a warning light requires clearing the associated code from the current problem list. Clearing codes is a function that such tools typically offer, however... Some codes will automatically be cleared when problems are fixed. Some may only be cleared when manually cleared using a tool. Some may seem to clear but will naturally pop right back up as soon as the problem is re-detected. Some codes simply cannot be cleared by a tool though; those in a category weirdly termed "permanent" can only be cleared by fixing the actual cause of the problem and then allowing the vehicle's computer systems the opportunity to notice that the problem is gone.

I can understand that you want reassurance that you'll be able to clear the code before you buy (presumably to pass your MOT per the other thread you were talking about this in), but it is difficult to give you any such certainty. If the code is of a so called "permanent" type then it can only be cleared by fixing the actual problem. Otherwise, even if it is a type of code that can be cleared, the vehicle's computer systems could re-detect the problem and set the code and light again at any moment if you haven't fixed the problem.

That said, ForScan is widely considered here the best available piece of software for DIY on Ford vehicles, and the desktop/laptop version (only available for Windows) is much more capable than the mobile app. Being able to get the most out of it though depends upon getting the right device to use it with (not all have the same capabilities). A simple ELM327 device with the MS-CAN switch modification, such as that sold by tunnelrat is the cheapest solution offering maximum access to reading/clearing codes on Ford vehicles, though it's a little annoying to use since you have to flick a switch here and there when ForScan tells you to, whereas a slightly more expensive device like a VGate vLinker FS or OBDLink Ex does not need such a switch.

Such a device is a very worthwhile purchase even if you fail to clear this code with it, since at least you can always access the full list of Ford codes when ever you have a problem, like now, and thus get an idea of what the problem is specifically.

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2 minutes ago, Tizer said:

The Windows version and the Phone versions of FORScan are exactly the same when it comes to reading and clearing codes and reading Live Data.

Tunnelrats did do a Wi-Fi Adaptor that could be used for the phone versions of FORScan but I think it is discontinued now because the quality of the chips that are being supplied for Wi-Fi Adaptors generally has gone downhill.

If you clear the Code(s) that are/is causing the light to go on it will only stay off if the fault that caused it/them to come on is no longer present.

My advice would be to at least read the codes to see what they are, then clear them and see if they come back on and whether there is a trigger for them to come on if they don't come on tight away.

You may be able to access a certain amount of Live Data in the ABS Module that may throw some light on what the problem is.

Have a read here on how to use FORScan   https://forscan.org/documentation_13.html

 

Great info thank you, I'll do that. 

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20 minutes ago, rd457 said:

Firstly, you need to understand the following: The light is shown (obviously) due to a problem having been detected by the car's computer systems. Every problem they can detect has an associated error code (DTC). The computer modules keep a list of codes for problems they have detected, and tools like those you refer to can access this list to help you identify what is wrong. Some codes also result in a warning light being shown. Clearing a warning light requires clearing the associated code from the current problem list. Clearing codes is a function that such tools typically offer, however... Some codes will automatically be cleared when problems are fixed. Some may only be cleared when manually cleared using a tool. Some may seem to clear but will naturally pop right back up as soon as the problem is re-detected. Some codes simply cannot be cleared by a tool though; those in a category weirdly termed "permanent" can only be cleared by fixing the actual cause of the problem and then allowing the vehicle's computer systems the opportunity to notice that the problem is gone.

I can understand that you want reassurance that you'll be able to clear the code before you buy (presumably to pass your MOT per the other thread you were talking about this in), but it is difficult to give you any such certainty. If the code is of a so called "permanent" type then it can only be cleared by fixing the actual problem. Otherwise, even if it is a type of code that can be cleared, the vehicle's computer systems could re-detect the problem and set the code and light again at any moment if you haven't fixed the problem.

That said, ForScan is widely considered here the best available piece of software for DIY on Ford vehicles, and the desktop/laptop version (only available for Windows) is much more capable than the mobile app. Being able to get the most out of it though depends upon getting the right device to use it with (not all have the same capabilities). A simple ELM327 device with the MS-CAN switch modification, such as that sold by tunnelrat is the cheapest solution offering maximum access to reading/clearing codes on Ford vehicles, though it's a little annoying to use since you have to flick a switch here and there when ForScan tells you to, whereas a slightly more expensive device like a VGate vLinker FS or OBDLink Ex does not need such a switch.

Such a device is a very worthwhile purchase even if you fail to clear this code with it, since at least you can always access the full list of Ford codes when ever you have a problem, like now, and thus get an idea of what the problem is specifically.

Wow such a detailed answer thank you. 

So yeah OK maybe it won't clear but I'll know what's wrong, got it. 👌 Is there also the chance the scan results won't show what's wrong? Then an entire inspection of the system would be needed? 

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If you've got a good device and Windows based ForScan then you're in the best position possible to ask the vehicle's computer system for information, but the information it can give you alone is not always enough to know for certain what is wrong with a vehicle. There are limitations to what is possible. It is generally best to view such information as just a set of clues. You may well still need to do physical inspections, depending upon the specific problem, but such clues can often be extremely helpful to at least narrow things down.

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3 minutes ago, rd457 said:

If you've got a good device and Windows based ForScan then you're in the best position possible to ask the vehicle's computer system for information, but the information it can give you alone is not always enough to know for certain what is wrong with a vehicle. There are limitations to what is possible. It is generally best to view such information as just a set of clues. You may well still need to do physical inspections, depending upon the specific problem, but such clues can often be extremely helpful to at least narrow things down.

Right OK, got it. Thanks for your help. Thanks everyone.

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Which one of these scanners would be best to buy to use when purchasing a car to see if there are any faults that have been cleared?  Or would they all be suitable for this? Do all these devices do the same things, same capabilities, the only difference being the speed and the fact the elm327 has a manual switch, or is one better than the other in what it can do?  Thank you to everyone for your help.  

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I've Been reading that elm327 is not as capable as Vgate vLinker FS and that forscan doesn't support it anymore? I'm a bit confused what to buy now. 

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The short answer is that if you want a single solution with good (though it may still not necessarily be perfect) cross-manufacturer support, the simplest answer would be to look at expensive professional grade tools. Bare with me whilst I try to fill you in on how things stand.

The ODB (aka DLC) plug itself is standardized and will be found in all vehicles from the past couple decades (although there's a slight difference for 24-volt vehicles which I believe are rare, and for heavy duty vehicles). So pretty much any scantool you buy will be able to plug in. However, from there it can get a bit complicated. Different pins of the connector are dedicated to different things, with different communication standards. However most of those standards are obsolete these days, with the 'CAN bus' standard having proven the most popular several years ago. You can expect any tool you buy to support CAN and any modern car to provide CAN communication. CAN is fundamentally a network between computer modules, and the ODB port has a connection into this network. However, Ford is one of two manufacturers (the other being GM) that I know of who don't simply make all of their computer modules accessible on the one single standard CAN network, but instead provide a secondary CAN network accessible only via a different pair of pins on the ODB connector. Thus to be able to communicate with things on that separate network you need a device with additional electronics to suitably connect to these additional pins as another CAN link. Devices like the OBDLink Ex and VGate vLinker FS have the necessary electronics for this. ELM327 is a popular microchip that many devices are based upon; it's now rather obsolete but has been very popular, partly because it was the first solution that attempted to cover over this complexity (though not the Ford/GM thing which came later) and partly because a mistake the manufacturer made allowed chinese clones to be easily made which the market got flooded with, sadly driving the ELM company out of business. The OBDLink and VGate devices use a newer generation of microchips that improve upon what ELM327 provided. The only ELM327 based devices that support the extra Ford CAN network ("MS-CAN") are those that have been modified to add the physical switch, which flips the wires between connecting to the standard CAN pins and the MS-CAN pins. Some of the newer generation devices (with newer chips) have the support built in without a switch, though some models simply don't support MS-CAN at all. So although all devices you may look at should plug in and be able to talk to the standard CAN network, if you ever want to plug into a Ford or GM vehicle you'd want a device with the extra electronics for this additional network access. The only vehicles you wouldn't physically be able to plug into and talk to would be vehicles more than about 20 years old, besides some odd exceptions you're probably not interested in.

The next thing to consider on top of this is compatibility with the software you use it with, if it's a dongle/cable type device, or otherwise the software on the device itself. One aspect to be aware of here concerns trouble code meanings. There are a lot of generic trouble codes (thousands) that have standardized meanings that are thus applicable to all vehicles, but then there are also a whole bunch more of manufacturer specific ones. The list of codes also gets extended every now and then. All software should be able to give you a meaning for most if not all generic codes, however they can only give meanings for manufacturer specific codes if the meanings have been built into the software, and getting a complete and accurate set of meanings may not be as easily obtained as you may think. It is also possible that meanings could vary by between models from the same manufacturer, adding yet another complication software needs to deal with. There may possibly be yet another layer of complication on top of this of in terms of needing to know the necessary manufacturer ID numbers for communication purposes with modules in order to fetch codes from them. I believe many cheap devices will only carry some meaning for generic codes and furthermore will only fetch codes from the vehicle's ECU module. And we're only just scratching the surface here when it comes to software compatibility. I'll skip over the other aspects as I've written far too much already.

So if you get a good cable/dongle type device, like those mentioned, you can expect it to essentially physically work on any modern vehicle (at least in terms of cars), however the software side is an entirely different matter. ForScan is considered the best software option currently available to DIY people with limited money, for Ford vehicles, along with some others like Mazda I believe, and is fully compatible with the devices mentioned. A lot of effort has been put into it in order for it know Ford code meanings and such. It may possibly also work to some basic level on other vehicles, but this may be very limited due to not having anything specific for them built into it. I'm sure that there are other software applications available for other specific vehicle manufacturers, but I don't know much about them.

You've got to remember that vehicle manufacturers each have their own software but it's typically extremely expensive, and us DIY guys are just left with whatever other people come up with. There are various options of professional level devices available, made by companies with cash with which they can buy the necessary manufacturer specific data to build into their software, though such devices are expensive, and their support is not necessarily going to be perfect, you may need to pay a subscription fee for software upgrades.

Note that pretty much any free/cheap software available to DIYer's will be compatible primarily with ELM327 based devices. They may also be compatible with the newer better devices such as those from OBDLink and VGate, but this isn't certain (except we know that ForScan is), if not then you'd need to encourage them to add support.

So you can see that getting a perfect cross-manufacturer solution with limited funds is a rather complicated matter.

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5 minutes ago, rd457 said:

The short answer is

I'd hate to see one of your long answers 🤣

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And with that posted I might just try and catch the last of the daylight for a walk... 🙃

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9 minutes ago, rd457 said:

I might just try and catch the last of the daylight for a walk

and tomorrow you will have an extra hour of day light 😀

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3 hours ago, johnjohn10 said:

Which one of these scanners would be best to buy to use when purchasing a car to see if there are any faults that have been cleared?  Or would they all be suitable for this? Do all these devices do the same things, same capabilities, the only difference being the speed and the fact the elm327 has a manual switch, or is one better than the other in what it can do?  Thank you to everyone for your help.  

Just to clarify something, some codes can't be cleared with a tool, they can only be cleared by fixing the problem and giving the vehicle the opportunity to notice. Others though can of course be cleared. There is no way to find out what has been cleared, though in the "live data" there may be a indicator of how long it has been since the codes were last cleared. As far as I know there is also no means to ask the car to reassess itself, the car will only pick up the existence of cleared faults again as and when it has opportunity to re-experience them. So the best you could do is check when the codes were last cleared, if this info is available, to know whether to be suspicious or not, and then check for codes after a test drive.

2 hours ago, johnjohn10 said:

I've Been reading that elm327 is not as capable as Vgate vLinker FS and that forscan doesn't support it anymore? I'm a bit confused what to buy now. 

ELM327 is still supported, as indicated on the ForScan homepage, however they don't recommend it any more. This is partly/wholly due to all of the Chinese clones floating about that I mentioned.

Actually that raises another point worth mentioning. These devices all contain a small piece of software (firmware). The mistake I mentioned that the official ELM327 manufacturer made was accidentally making it possible to extract that software from the device, which led to the flood of Chinese clones which re-use it. The official ELM manufacturer later published new chips with newer software embedded in them, with extraction blocked. The Chinese clones are thus stuck using the older ELM software, with all of its bugs and fewer features. Some of them give a false version number to pretend they have they newer software. Then as I said, the ELM manufacturer went out of business and newer generations of chips have been produced by at least one other manufacturer, which take over from ELM327 and further improve things.

So one major disadvantage of getting an ELM327 device is that even if you managed to get a hold of a genuine ELM327, its firmware is now outdated and will never be improved, and most likely you'd end up with a clone using even older firmware. Note that manufacturers like OBDLink offer free firmware updates for their devices.

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22 hours ago, rd457 said:

Just to clarify something, some codes can't be cleared with a tool, they can only be cleared by fixing the problem and giving the vehicle the opportunity to notice. Others though can of course be cleared. There is no way to find out what has been cleared, though in the "live data" there may be a indicator of how long it has been since the codes were last cleared. As far as I know there is also no means to ask the car to reassess itself, the car will only pick up the existence of cleared faults again as and when it has opportunity to re-experience them. So the best you could do is check when the codes were last cleared, if this info is available, to know whether to be suspicious or not, and then check for codes after a test drive.

ELM327 is still supported, as indicated on the ForScan homepage, however they don't recommend it any more. This is partly/wholly due to all of the Chinese clones floating about that I mentioned.

Actually that raises another point worth mentioning. These devices all contain a small piece of software (firmware). The mistake I mentioned that the official ELM327 manufacturer made was accidentally making it possible to extract that software from the device, which led to the flood of Chinese clones which re-use it. The official ELM manufacturer later published new chips with newer software embedded in them, with extraction blocked. The Chinese clones are thus stuck using the older ELM software, with all of its bugs and fewer features. Some of them give a false version number to pretend they have they newer software. Then as I said, the ELM manufacturer went out of business and newer generations of chips have been produced by at least one other manufacturer, which take over from ELM327 and further improve things.

So one major disadvantage of getting an ELM327 device is that even if you managed to get a hold of a genuine ELM327, its firmware is now outdated and will never be improved, and most likely you'd end up with a clone using even older firmware. Note that manufacturers like OBDLink offer free firmware updates for their devices.

Well I think that's what's happened, in my haste I have bought an OBD2 that is coloured like an elm327 but once I got it, it's not elm327, just looks like one. Anyhow it's plugged in and I have a DTC

code B0072 passenger searbelt pretensioner 'A' deployment control. 

Additional fault symptom (:13) - circuit open 

Status (-BA) :

DTC Present at time of request 

Malfunction indicator lamp is on for this DTC 

Module: restraint control module

 

So is this my problem? Seems it might be hey. How do I fix this? 

 

Thank you!

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Yes that'll be your problem. It's specifically hinting that the fault is a broken wiring connection.

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On 3/24/2023 at 9:40 PM, rd457 said:

Firstly, you need to understand the following: The light is shown (obviously) due to a problem having been detected by the car's computer systems. Every problem they can detect has an associated error code (DTC). The computer modules keep a list of codes for problems they have detected, and tools like those you refer to can access this list to help you identify what is wrong. Some codes also result in a warning light being shown. Clearing a warning light requires clearing the associated code from the current problem list. Clearing codes is a function that such tools typically offer, however... Some codes will automatically be cleared when problems are fixed. Some may only be cleared when manually cleared using a tool. Some may seem to clear but will naturally pop right back up as soon as the problem is re-detected. Some codes simply cannot be cleared by a tool though; those in a category weirdly termed "permanent" can only be cleared by fixing the actual cause of the problem and then allowing the vehicle's computer systems the opportunity to notice that the problem is gone.

I can understand that you want reassurance that you'll be able to clear the code before you buy (presumably to pass your MOT per the other thread you were talking about this in), but it is difficult to give you any such certainty. If the code is of a so called "permanent" type then it can only be cleared by fixing the actual problem. Otherwise, even if it is a type of code that can be cleared, the vehicle's computer systems could re-detect the problem and set the code and light again at any moment if you haven't fixed the problem.

That said, ForScan is widely considered here the best available piece of software for DIY on Ford vehicles, and the desktop/laptop version (only available for Windows) is much more capable than the mobile app. Being able to get the most out of it though depends upon getting the right device to use it with (not all have the same capabilities). A simple ELM327 device with the MS-CAN switch modification, such as that sold by tunnelrat is the cheapest solution offering maximum access to reading/clearing codes on Ford vehicles, though it's a little annoying to use since you have to flick a switch here and there when ForScan tells you to, whereas a slightly more expensive device like a VGate vLinker FS or OBDLink Ex does not need such a switch.

Such a device is a very worthwhile purchase even if you fail to clear this code with it, since at least you can always access the full list of Ford codes when ever you have a problem, like now, and thus get an idea of what the problem is specifically.

Hey buddy would you look at my other thread? Maybe you could see something, I've been using a elm327 and forscan. Thank you! 

 

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On 3/24/2023 at 9:36 PM, Tizer said:

The Windows version and the Phone versions of FORScan are exactly the same when it comes to reading and clearing codes and reading Live Data.

Tunnelrats did do a Wi-Fi Adaptor that could be used for the phone versions of FORScan but I think it is discontinued now because the quality of the chips that are being supplied for Wi-Fi Adaptors generally has gone downhill.

If you clear the Code(s) that are/is causing the light to go on it will only stay off if the fault that caused it/them to come on is no longer present.

My advice would be to at least read the codes to see what they are, then clear them and see if they come back on and whether there is a trigger for them to come on if they don't come on right away.

You may be able to access a certain amount of Live Data in the ABS Module that may throw some light on what the problem is.

Have a read here on how to use FORScan   https://forscan.org/documentation_13.html

 

Hi I've been using FORScan now with an elm327, I have a other thread would you take a look and maybe you can see something? Thank you! 

 

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On 3/25/2023 at 5:17 PM, rd457 said:

The short answer is that if you want a single solution with good (though it may still not necessarily be perfect) cross-manufacturer support, the simplest answer would be to look at expensive professional grade tools. Bare with me whilst I try to fill you in on how things stand.

The ODB (aka DLC) plug itself is standardized and will be found in all vehicles from the past couple decades (although there's a slight difference for 24-volt vehicles which I believe are rare, and for heavy duty vehicles). So pretty much any scantool you buy will be able to plug in. However, from there it can get a bit complicated. Different pins of the connector are dedicated to different things, with different communication standards. However most of those standards are obsolete these days, with the 'CAN bus' standard having proven the most popular several years ago. You can expect any tool you buy to support CAN and any modern car to provide CAN communication. CAN is fundamentally a network between computer modules, and the ODB port has a connection into this network. However, Ford is one of two manufacturers (the other being GM) that I know of who don't simply make all of their computer modules accessible on the one single standard CAN network, but instead provide a secondary CAN network accessible only via a different pair of pins on the ODB connector. Thus to be able to communicate with things on that separate network you need a device with additional electronics to suitably connect to these additional pins as another CAN link. Devices like the OBDLink Ex and VGate vLinker FS have the necessary electronics for this. ELM327 is a popular microchip that many devices are based upon; it's now rather obsolete but has been very popular, partly because it was the first solution that attempted to cover over this complexity (though not the Ford/GM thing which came later) and partly because a mistake the manufacturer made allowed chinese clones to be easily made which the market got flooded with, sadly driving the ELM company out of business. The OBDLink and VGate devices use a newer generation of microchips that improve upon what ELM327 provided. The only ELM327 based devices that support the extra Ford CAN network ("MS-CAN") are those that have been modified to add the physical switch, which flips the wires between connecting to the standard CAN pins and the MS-CAN pins. Some of the newer generation devices (with newer chips) have the support built in without a switch, though some models simply don't support MS-CAN at all. So although all devices you may look at should plug in and be able to talk to the standard CAN network, if you ever want to plug into a Ford or GM vehicle you'd want a device with the extra electronics for this additional network access. The only vehicles you wouldn't physically be able to plug into and talk to would be vehicles more than about 20 years old, besides some odd exceptions you're probably not interested in.

The next thing to consider on top of this is compatibility with the software you use it with, if it's a dongle/cable type device, or otherwise the software on the device itself. One aspect to be aware of here concerns trouble code meanings. There are a lot of generic trouble codes (thousands) that have standardized meanings that are thus applicable to all vehicles, but then there are also a whole bunch more of manufacturer specific ones. The list of codes also gets extended every now and then. All software should be able to give you a meaning for most if not all generic codes, however they can only give meanings for manufacturer specific codes if the meanings have been built into the software, and getting a complete and accurate set of meanings may not be as easily obtained as you may think. It is also possible that meanings could vary by between models from the same manufacturer, adding yet another complication software needs to deal with. There may possibly be yet another layer of complication on top of this of in terms of needing to know the necessary manufacturer ID numbers for communication purposes with modules in order to fetch codes from them. I believe many cheap devices will only carry some meaning for generic codes and furthermore will only fetch codes from the vehicle's ECU module. And we're only just scratching the surface here when it comes to software compatibility. I'll skip over the other aspects as I've written far too much already.

So if you get a good cable/dongle type device, like those mentioned, you can expect it to essentially physically work on any modern vehicle (at least in terms of cars), however the software side is an entirely different matter. ForScan is considered the best software option currently available to DIY people with limited money, for Ford vehicles, along with some others like Mazda I believe, and is fully compatible with the devices mentioned. A lot of effort has been put into it in order for it know Ford code meanings and such. It may possibly also work to some basic level on other vehicles, but this may be very limited due to not having anything specific for them built into it. I'm sure that there are other software applications available for other specific vehicle manufacturers, but I don't know much about them.

You've got to remember that vehicle manufacturers each have their own software but it's typically extremely expensive, and us DIY guys are just left with whatever other people come up with. There are various options of professional level devices available, made by companies with cash with which they can buy the necessary manufacturer specific data to build into their software, though such devices are expensive, and their support is not necessarily going to be perfect, you may need to pay a subscription fee for software upgrades.

Note that pretty much any free/cheap software available to DIYer's will be compatible primarily with ELM327 based devices. They may also be compatible with the newer better devices such as those from OBDLink and VGate, but this isn't certain (except we know that ForScan is), if not then you'd need to encourage them to add support.

So you can see that getting a perfect cross-manufacturer solution with limited funds is a rather complicated matter.

Wow so much good information, thank you. Jeez

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On 3/25/2023 at 5:23 PM, unofix said:

I'd hate to see one of your long answers 🤣

Hi unofix would you take a look at my other thread and maybe you can see something there? You do electrics right? Thank you 

 

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Hi John, I'll have a full read through all of your threads and see if I can advise what to do next.

I have no wiring schematics for the Ford Galaxy and so it will make things a lot more difficult. I have quite a few things on today so it it likely to be late evening before I get back to you with some answers.

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13 hours ago, johnjohn10 said:

Hi I've been using FORScan now with an elm327, I have a other thread would you take a look and maybe you can see something? Thank you! 

 

I have seen your other thread and the only things I would say is that whoever cut the white wires and soldered the other ones together did so for a reason, and that may have been to hide a fault or a seat from a different model was Installed or the car had been in a crash. 

Without a wiring diagram you will struggle to diagnose what the problem is and as I said before, have a look at the Live Data in the RCM to see if that throws any light on the matter. 

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57 minutes ago, Tizer said:

I have seen your other thread and the only things I would say is that whoever cut the white wires and soldered the other ones together did so for a reason, and that may have been to hide a fault or a seat from a different model was Installed or the car had been in a crash. 

Without a wiring diagram you will struggle to diagnose what the problem is and as I said before, have a look at the Live Data in the RCM to see if that throws any light on the matter. 

I will do that thank you.

About the soldered wires, couldn't there just have been a faulty connector in that black plastic box so they bypassed it? Not saying you're wrong but it looks like that's what they've done. I couldn't get any of those connectors out of that box, maybe I'm not doing it properly but they seem to be permanently in there, so if the connectors went bad then to cut the wires and solder them together would make sense. 

Is there a way to get a cars full history? The mot history on the government website on went back to 2016 and its a 2008 car. 

Thanks for your help. 

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