Ford Smax 2.5L turbo engine malfunction won’t crank

[Magda]

Hi there 

I have a problem with my 2007 2.5L turbo Smax.

Few days ago it suddenly came up with a engine malfunction message on the dashboard and it won’t start.

When you turn the ignition on it won’t crank, it makes no sound apart from some  clicking sound around the ECU unit. 
The RAC man said it’s a water damage to ECU. It kept burning the fuse F6 but after we removed the unit and dried it it stopped but no improvement with regards to the engine malfunction message. 
when scanned it came up with two codes P1121 intake air temperature sensor and P1131 knock sensor

We replaced the fuel pressure sensor, tried tapping the starter motor to see if it’s stuck… no changes 

I think it might need the new ECU unit … but what do I know, I’m just a girl 😉 My other half thinks we should start with replacing some other sensors but would it not at least try to crank unless it was a starter, ECU or immobiliser ? 

Oh and the battery is low but we jumped lead it to a van and it didn’t make a difference either

Apologies for the essay, I’m not very good with the terminology 😒

Any ideas where to start ? Is it worth sending the ECU for testing and or repair? Better to get a new one? Does it need to be coded ? 
What do you guys think is the best plan of action ? 

Thanks 

Magda 

 

[unofix]

1 hour ago, Magda said:

I think it might need the new ECU unit … but what do I know, I’m just a girl 😉 My other half thinks we should start with replacing some other sensors but would it not at least try to crank unless it was a starter, ECU or immobiliser ? 

I think your other half needs to start listening to you 👍

Are you actually referring to the ECU, or the Body Control Module (BCM) which is part of the passenger compartment fuesbox ?

Either way once they have been subjected to water then the chances of saving them is very slight. You will be getting all sorts of random error codes, and if you follow them all, you will eventually fully rebuild the car and it still wont work.

• Firstly you need a windows laptop and download the diagnostic and programming software 'FORScan' it is free for windows use.
• You will also need a good connection lead. Personally I'd use the new vLinker FS cable, but on your vehicle the ELM327(modified) cable from TunnelRat Electronics will also work.

You also need to fully charge the battery (or replace it). The minimum voltage should be 12.32V (see SOC table below) after it has been standing for an hour or more.

If your not sure what unit it is that got wet, then just post a photo of it so we can see what it is.

FORScan software (free for windows): https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

OR use

ELM327(modified) cable: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

 

[Magda]

1 hour ago, unofix said:

I think your other half needs to start listening to you 👍

Are you actually referring to the ECU, or the Body Control Module (BCM) which is part of the passenger compartment fuesbox ?

Either way once they have been subjected to water then the chances of saving them is very slight. You will be getting all sorts of random error codes, and if you follow them all, you will eventually fully rebuild the car and it still wont work.

• Firstly you need a windows laptop and download the diagnostic and programming software 'FORScan' it is free for windows use.
• You will also need a good connection lead. Personally I'd use the new vLinker FS cable, but on your vehicle the ELM327(modified) cable from TunnelRat Electronics will also work.

You also need to fully charge the battery (or replace it). The minimum voltage should be 12.32V (see SOC table below) after it has been standing for an hour or more.

If your not sure what unit it is that got wet, then just post a photo of it so we can see what it is.

FORScan software (free for windows): https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

OR use

ELM327(modified) cable: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

 

I was referring to the ECU unit and the fuse from the box in the engine bay, sorry for the confusion 

The thing is that the unit was not wet at all but maybe it was the moisture, not sure.  We did take it out overnight and it the fuse stopped burning after we installed again. 
 

Thanks for the cable and software suggestion. I have sorted a cable and will be able to scan the car in the next couple of days 

what should we look out for ? Sorry if that sounds daft 😖 are we looking for the scanner to connect to all the modules ( or however they are called ) ? I’m not sure what to do with the software. Does it work like the code reader thingy ? 
 

thanks 

Magda 

[Magda]

Oh and also forgot to mention that apart from the engine malfunction there is also message immobiliser active 

[unofix]

FORScan is as close as it gets to the same kind of software used by Ford dealers. You will be able to scan all modules and read the DTC's that must be present if the EML is on. Also the reason that the car can't be started is because the immobiliser is active. Using FORScan you should be able to read the codes and find out why it is on.

I suspect that it will come down to one of two faults. (a) Water ingress in the BCM which is part of the passenger compartment fuesbox. Or (b) it will be the infamous solder joint failure of the Instrument Cluster.

Quick check, give the dashboard a good thump with your hand just above the instrument cluster. Does anything change, do you get different faults ?

[Magda]

So I’m back again 😉 
Still getting nowhere with it 

We sent off the Instrument cluster for repair, that didn’t make a difference😖 

I got the cable and the software and when I’m trying to connect I’m getting a massage saying that the software can’t identify  the vehicle and that I need to provide a part number for the PCM 

I’m lost 

Any advise for a next step would be much appreciated 

 

[unofix]

1 hour ago, Magda said:

I’m getting a massage saying that the software can’t identify  the vehicle and that I need to provide a part number for the PCM 

Well that's a first. It looks like your car has had some kind of remap at some point in the past. Up until a few months ago the information needed would have been available from the Ford ETIS site. Unfortunately that site has now been decommissioned and there is no alternative for the general public. You need someone who works for Ford and has access to the new data base in order to get the details of the original PCM on your car. 

[Magda]

Oh dear 😖

I don’t know anyone 

Its getting better and better 😬 

Thanks for your help 

 

[Magda]

I’m back 🙂 

We have managed to connect to the car but not sure what the codes mean

I’ve attached pictures 

any help would me much appreciated 

[TomsFocus]

P1607 basically means the cluster isn't getting an engine warning light response from the ECU when it requests a test.

That suggests that either the ECU is still faulty or the wiring to it.  I would strongly suspect the ECU after it was blowing fuses.  There are so many small electronic components inside an ECU that I'm not convinced it'll be ok just because it's stopped blowing fuses.

Ideally, the wiring should be tested before condemning the ECU, but that's not a simple task.

[Magda]

Thank you so much for your response 

it’s going to a professional tomorrow I think. 

 

[Magda]

Hello again 
Could I please ask for your opinion ? 
So the car now drives after the ECU replacement at the garage BUT … it cuts out when you rev it and the revs go up and down on idle. When you push it the car goes into limp mode for few seconds and the engine malfunction message comes on. 
Once it’s switched off and on again you can drive it again. 
the mechanic said it needs new throttle body which was done - no improvement whatsoever 

I took it back to see if he can reset the throttle position sensor( thinking it could be that ) but his software is not letting him do it. He suggested I should bring the car back again for the ECU guy ( mechanics mate) to have a look at it and try different software or something like that

Now he is saying that it’s probably fuel pump 

this is why I hate garages…I feel more confused I was before

Any suggestions?

[TomsFocus]

1 hour ago, Magda said:

Hello again 
Could I please ask for your opinion ? 
So the car now drives after the ECU replacement at the garage BUT … it cuts out when you rev it and the revs go up and down on idle. When you push it the car goes into limp mode for few seconds and the engine malfunction message comes on. 
Once it’s switched off and on again you can drive it again. 
the mechanic said it needs new throttle body which was done - no improvement whatsoever 

I took it back to see if he can reset the throttle position sensor( thinking it could be that ) but his software is not letting him do it. He suggested I should bring the car back again for the ECU guy ( mechanics mate) to have a look at it and try different software or something like that

Now he is saying that it’s probably fuel pump 

this is why I hate garages…I feel more confused I was before

Any suggestions?

Try connecting to Forscan again.  Hopefully that'll give us a useful fault code as a starting point.