Hi

I’ve just won the below ranger on eBay. And wondered if I could pick the forums brains. 

Any ideas what the fault with gearbox could be?

Is it a gamble or a bargain?

I’m happy and able to dismantle and get the gearbox to a specialist if needs be. 

Thank you in advance 

Description of fault is below 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204309611255?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ql1AsXVvThC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=aQoWFWqqRZG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

You are bidding for a 2015 FORD RANGER WILDTRAK 4X4 DCB 3.2 TDCI NON RUNNER / SPARES OR REPAIR with a speedo reading of approximately 108,424 genuine miles. This car was collected by us as a runner but with a suspected gearbox fault. On inspection all the oil/coolant levels are correct and the engine starts on the key as it should. We have driven this car on our premises finding the engine, steering, and the brakes all appear to operate as they should. The gearbox selects both forward and reverse gears but struggles to select/change gear as if it is low on oil when it is taking up drive. It is our opinion that the gearbox will need attention/repairing prior to road use. The purchaser will need to investigate this fault for themselves. Further investigation is required to determine any faults and gearbox/gearbox parts may need repairing/replacing to make good

 

Nice plate (although illegally spaced).  I suspect it's been used to tow an overweight trailer regularly and damaged the torque converter.

First thing to do would be to get it scanned for any transmission fault codes with Ford specific diagnostics.  (Forscan is ideal, plenty of posts about it on here.)  

I doubt there'll be any codes.

As it's done 108,000 miles suspect cooked fluid first.

Get all of the fluid out, all of it, and renew with the correct fresh fluid and a new filter

If you're going to do just drain and refills, plan to drain and refill about three times, you only drain 50% of the fluid out, the remainder stays in the cooler loop, solenoid body and torque converter.

Get it warm, drain and fill, after it has run through all the gears (on axle stands)

It'll probably need the solenoid body removing and cleaning out too plus testing and cleaning or replacing the/some solenoids.

If it still doesn't drive after that suspect the torque converter then start stripping the box down for clutch wear (which I doubt)

3 hours ago, DaveT70 said:

I doubt there'll be any codes.

As it's done 108,000 miles suspect cooked fluid first.

Get all of the fluid out, all of it, and renew with the correct fresh fluid and a new filter

If you're going to do just drain and refills, plan to drain and refill about three times, you only drain 50% of the fluid out, the remainder stays in the cooler loop, solenoid body and torque converter.

Get it warm, drain and fill, after it has run through all the gears (on axle stands)

It'll probably need the solenoid body removing and cleaning out too plus testing and cleaning or replacing the/some solenoids.

If it still doesn't drive after that suspect the torque converter then start stripping the box down for clutch wear (which I doubt)

Thanks for taking time to provide your thoughts. 
 

We’re are the solenoids? Are they easily accessible?

They'll either be in the sump or attached to the side of the transmission, normally in a black box, with an electrical connection