Jaax Posted May 22 Share Posted May 22 Hi I've previously posted about an intermittent problem I've had with my MK2.5 2010 Focus 2.0 TDCI TITANIUM. It started last year after I had the cluster soldered due to that common problem. Every now and then after I've got out of the car and attempt to lock it the car does not lock, when I go back into the car it displays Key not detected. The car does not power up and usually starts working again the next day. I've had a key guy come out and cut me a spare key, a new battery installed and fuse boxes checked. But the problem still persist. It's died on me again this weekend and will not come allive. I've had a auto technician come out who's managed to pump life into the car but still does not start and displayed key not detected. He could not find the key reader/receiver. So please if anyone knows the location or the cause of this fault please let me know. Also does anyone know of any ford experts in leeds or the West Yorkshire Area? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RL123 Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 Try giving the dash above the cluster a whack just to check it’s not solder joint related. If the cluster solder was just reflowed, it probably wouldn’t last , the old solder should be removed and replaced with the conventional type. just a thought p.s. dtcs read through the obd could help diagnose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaax Posted May 25 Author Share Posted May 25 Hey Bud, I removed the cluster a couple of times whacked it, bashed it and rubbed it and still no joy. The auto tech said only code there was something to do with the keyless ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RL123 Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 Can you start the vehicle when this happens by holding the key next to the column or wherever the read point is for a flat key fob battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaax Posted May 25 Author Share Posted May 25 The manual says if I insert the key in the plastic ignition barrel that should bypass the keyless module allow the car to start. Unfortunately this is not working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RL123 Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 I’ve seen a number of posts of key not being recognised , if you do a search it may give you some more suggestions. Have you checked the plugs into the BCM/Fusebox behind the glovebox? disconnect the battery first though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaax Posted May 25 Author Share Posted May 25 I've had the battery disconnected for 2 days now. The electrician that came out checked all the fuses in both engine bay and footwear. Right now I'm stripping the interior in seats for the key receiver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RL123 Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 I don’t know where the keyless module would be. I have read on a number of posts dampness and corrosion can effect the plugs into the BCM/internal fuse box behind the glove box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjt Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 21 hours ago, Jaax said: The manual says if I insert the key in the plastic ignition barrel that should bypass the keyless module allow the car to start. Unfortunately this is not working This suggests the fault does not lie with the keyless module. I think the PATS is dealt with by the cluster (maybe @TomsFocus might confirm that) so that's where I'd be looking, even though you've had it resoldered. Where did you get that done? As @RL123 says if it was just reflowed it's possible you might still have some dodgy joints there. To achieve a reliable repair all the old lead-free solder needs to be removed and then be resoldered with tin/lead solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 53 minutes ago, mjt said: This suggests the fault does not lie with the keyless module. I think the PATS is dealt with by the cluster (maybe @TomsFocus might confirm that) so that's where I'd be looking, even though you've had it resoldered. Where did you get that done? As @RL123 says if it was just reflowed it's possible you might still have some dodgy joints there. To achieve a reliable repair all the old lead-free solder needs to be removed and then be resoldered with tin/lead solder. There are multiple threads by the same poster on this, which is causing confusion. Maybe mods can merge them? I don't believe the KVM is 'bypassed' when using the chip, I think it's still part of the PATS system. I've also read that the cluster is not part of the PATS on keyless Mk2.5s. Wilco is the guy we need for this one, and I have tagged him in another of the threads on this, just awaiting his input. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RL123 Posted May 26 Share Posted May 26 I do wonder how the auto tech retrieved the codes, was it with a generic scanner? Could there be more codes if read with Forscan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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