ted2023 Posted July 29 Share Posted July 29 Hi all, Got a 2010 Titanium with some defects I'm looking to fix. First one is the parking sensors, which come up with the 3 second fault alarm and flashing light when put into reverse. I had a look at the PAM, and no obvious connectors loose, or broken wires. Couldn't easily get to the front sensors, but I don't think they would put the PAM into fault mode. So I concentrated on the rear sensors. Took each one out, checked the pins with a voltmeter (set to ohms, they were all O/L open cct). My next step would be to maybe get an OBD2 reader, and see if there are any fault codes. My other idea was to get a new sensor, and try it it all 4 rear positions to see if it suddenly started working again. This is my question for everyone, has anyone bought a cheap single sensor (off eBay?), and did it work ok? If so, please advise which part number to go for. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanfp Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 8 hours ago, ted2023 said: Couldn't easily get to the front sensors, but I don't think they would put the PAM into fault mode. Why do you think that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted July 30 Author Share Posted July 30 There was a scan of a workshop manual I found online that went through diagnosis that garages do. There was a line that said something like the things that can make it go into flashing fault mode are rear sensors, speaker or PAM. (Rather than just saying sensors, it specifically said rear?) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted July 30 Share Posted July 30 16 hours ago, ted2023 said: My next step would be to maybe get an OBD2 reader, Actually that should have been your first step. If you use FORScan with a good quality ELM327 lead or better still use the vLinker FS cable then it will tell you exactly what the issue is. If it happens to be that one or more of the sensors have failed then it will tell you which ones need to be replaced. FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html ELM327 cable: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/product/usb-modified-with-switch-elm327 OR vLinker FS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted July 31 Author Share Posted July 31 Unfortunately I didn't have one to hand at the time, and didn't want to waste the day. Problem now is, when I do connect a code reader it will have stored all the fault codes resulting from my tinkering already. Might need to clear them all down, then see what new ones pop up. For the front sensors, is there an easier way to access than removing the bumper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 You may be able reach the sensors through a headlight hole to save removing the whole bumper. Is it a Mk1 or Mk2 C-Max? 2010 was the changeover year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 It was the last of the Mk1s. I got an old bluetooth vgate OBD scan, and tried both Torque Pro and Forscan Lite. Couldn't get Forscan Lite to detect the adaptor for some reason on my phone. Torque did come up with only one fault code, U1900 network. But when I cleared it, it never came up again. I'm assuming this was because I was playing around with the PAM disconnected the other week. I'm assuming my OBD adapter can't see all the modules, like read codes from the PAM direct. My other plan is to buy a single parking sensor (cheap China one off eBay), and put in the all the positions to see if it suddenly comes out of fault mode. Kinda throwing darts though. Anyone tried eBay China parking sensors and recommend a seller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 Does anyone know if all the 8 sensors are the same type? Only ask, as there appears to be small shorter ones available on eBay under the description of C-Max. Maybe the front ones are different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 The inner sensors are different from the outer ones. https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/49/no/0/1716/16218/70793/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted August 5 Author Share Posted August 5 Ah ok thanks. So the front inner 2 are the shorter type. Might have to rethink how I'm going to diagnose this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted August 9 Author Share Posted August 9 In fact, looking into the part numbers in more detail, all the parking sensors on the MK1 are the same, the difference in p/n is just the colour of the sensor face. The MK2 also seems to have the same main model number, but are actually shorter sensors. For a scan tool to see other modules, it looks like it needs to be a able to switch from HS CAN bus to MS CAN bus (Ford proprietary). I guess nearly all the cheap Chinese dongles can't do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 The cheap Chinese cables do often have a switch nowadays, but they're generally poorly built with inferior chips. The choice is really £35 for the VLinker cable from amazon or £20 for the ELM cable from Tunnelrat. (Cheaper cable is fine for light work on older models, if you intend to do more or buy a newer Ford in future then it may be worth investing in the VLinker). I'm not convinced the part number difference is only for the colour. If you look at the quantity, the inner & outer sensors are numbered as 2 each, whereas the rear sensors are labelled as all 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 11 minutes ago, ted2023 said: For a scan tool to see other modules, it looks like it needs to be a able to switch from HS CAN bus to MS CAN bus (Ford proprietary). I guess nearly all the cheap Chinese dongles can't do this. On 7/30/2023 at 10:03 AM, unofix said: ELM327 cable: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/product/usb-modified-with-switch-elm327 OR vLinker FS cable: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP If you plan on using the mobile phone version of FORScan you need a vLinker FD (android) or the vLinker FD+ (iPhone). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted August 9 Author Share Posted August 9 1 hour ago, TomsFocus said: 'm not convinced the part number difference is only for the colour. If you look at the quantity, the inner & outer sensors are numbered as 2 each, whereas the rear sensors are labelled as all 4. To me, it looks like the front inner 2 are always satin black (to match the lower grille?), and the rest are color coded to match the car colour. But essentially they are the same hardware part. (The front ones do appear to look smaller in the diagram though) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 5 minutes ago, ted2023 said: To me, it looks like the front inner 2 are always satin black (to match the lower grille?), and the rest are color coded to match the car colour. But essentially they are the same hardware part. Good spot. I'll go with that then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted August 9 Author Share Posted August 9 On the more expensive side, it looks like the OBDLink MX+ also can do the First MS CAN bus https://www.obdlink.com/mxp/vs-bluedriver/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 10 minutes ago, ted2023 said: On the more expensive side, it looks like the OBDLink MX+ also can do the First MS CAN bus https://www.obdlink.com/mxp/vs-bluedriver/ That's almost 3 times as expensive as the V-Linker wireless adapters that Unofix recommended. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 Well just for reference for others reading this thread. To use FORScan and be sure that it is going to work fully and read all of the DTC's you need to use one of the following. For the full version of FORScan for use on a windows laptop use the vLinker FS cable (£32.97) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP For the Lite version of FORScan for use with an Android mobile use the vLinker FD (£33.99) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H82WC8L For the Lite version of FORScan for use with an iPhone mobile use the vLinker FD+ (£42.09) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-Bluetooth-vLinker-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B08H8JHWP2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted August 9 Author Share Posted August 9 Ah ok, so best to stick with one approved by FORScan like the vLinker ones. The more expensive ones on amazon (Bluedriver, MX+, Carly) appear to be geared more towards American cars if I understand it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted August 9 Share Posted August 9 30 minutes ago, ted2023 said: Ah ok, so best to stick with one approved by FORScan like the vLinker ones. The more expensive ones on Amazon (Bluedriver, MX+, Carly) appear to be geared more towards American cars if I understand it. Carly is meant to cover many different brands, but it seems to be be mostly VAG/BMW, and can't do as much as it claims as it depends on each individual model. It'll only work as a generic OBD reader on most cars. I considered one for the Golf but after a lot of research looked like it couldn't even do as much as VCDS (VW equivalent to Forscan) and I already have that so decided not to bother. Can't comment on Bluedriver or MX. But yes, VLinker is the way to go if you want to use Forscan on a mobile device nowadays. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted August 10 Author Share Posted August 10 Not that I recommend doing it, I've seen guides online where they take a cheap ELM327 dongle, disassemble, and wire in a manual toggle switch that can flick between the pins to give both HS and MS Ford CAN bus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted August 10 Share Posted August 10 1 hour ago, ted2023 said: Not that I recommend doing it, I've seen guides online where they take a cheap ELM327 dongle, disassemble, and wire in a manual toggle switch that can flick between the pins to give both HS and MS Ford CAN bus That's certainly possible if you can solder. Trouble is, cheap ELM dongle chips are usually rubbish. If you want a cheaper option that should be good quality, there is always tue wireless Tunnelrat adapters. https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted2023 Posted August 19 Author Share Posted August 19 Update, fixed my parking sensor issue. Went around all 8 sensors and listened for the faint clicking sound. 2 out of the 8 did not click, one up front and one at the rear. Some cheap Chinese ones worked as replacements. For info, the front outer ones can be accessed by removing the headlights, and removing the plastic trim above the grille and reaching down for the inner ones. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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