froggy8 Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 hi guys just got my car back and it passed 馃檪聽 here is my screenshot: i have already got the new brake disc and brake pads so im ok in that department. with the ball joint dust cover, i am guessing it is just a rubber boot that needs replacing? but with the anti-roll linkage ball joint, im guessing i just need to replace the whole linkage? also with the suspension arm joint, either change the joint or replace the whole wishbone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 for the rear linkage, il be buying 2 of these: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-anti-roll-bar-link-632680139 and for the front suspension arm, il be getting a pair of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253379281579 i havent fund the dust cover yet as i cant seem to find them. could anyone tell me if the top 2 links are fine please? many thanks guys 馃檪聽 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT70 Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 21 minutes ago, froggy8 said: with the ball joint dust cover, i am guessing it is just a rubber boot that needs replacing? No, new balljoint. I would fit two new lower balljoints two new drop links two new track-rod ends 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 10 minutes ago, DaveT70 said: No, new balljoint. I would fit two new lower balljoints two new drop links two new track-rod ends many thanks for the lower balljoints, wouldnt it be better replacing the whole wishbone? i will have another look for the drop links and track rod ends now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 13 minutes ago, DaveT70 said: No, new balljoint. I would fit two new lower balljoints two new drop links two new track-rod ends for both track rod ends, i have gone for these: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-track-rod-end-606590769 https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-track-rod-end-606590759 for the drop links, i went with 2 of these: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-anti-roll-bar-link-632680139 have i got the right parts for the droplinks and rod ends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 26 minutes ago, DaveT70 said: No, new balljoint. I would fit two new lower balljoints two new drop links two new track-rod ends for the lower balljoints, i went with 2 of these: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-ball-joint-617590629 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 I would do the opposite to Dave on a car of this age.聽 Would ignore the advisories until you start getting a knocking from either the lower BJ or rear drop link.聽 And would just try to repair the existing track rod end boots with some liquid rubber.聽 Not suggesting he's wrong at all, just different ways of keeping a car on the road. 聽 If you do want to replace everything, remember that you'll need wheel alignment done afterwards.聽 Lower ball joints come in two sizes, either 18mm or 21mm, so you should really measure those before buying.聽 If only buying BJ's without the full arm, you will need a decent drill & bits to drill out the rivets on the original lower arm.聽 And you can buy universal aftermarket ball joint boots on eBay if preferred, but would have to measure the current ones carefully before purchasing replacements. 聽 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 7 minutes ago, TomsFocus said: I would do the opposite to Dave on a car of this age.聽 Would ignore the advisories until you start getting a knocking from either the lower BJ or rear drop link.聽 And would just try to repair the existing track rod end boots with some liquid rubber.聽 Not suggesting he's wrong at all, just different ways of keeping a car on the road. 聽 If you do want to replace everything, remember that you'll need wheel alignment done afterwards.聽 Lower ball joints come in two sizes, either 18mm or 21mm, so you should really measure those before buying.聽 If only buying BJ's without the full arm, you will need a decent drill & bits to drill out the rivets on the original lower arm.聽 And you can buy universal aftermarket ball joint boots on eBay if preferred, but would have to measure the current ones carefully before purchasing replacements. 聽 not trying to sound lazy but i think i will just change the track rod ends till i can hear any knocking like you said. you dont happen to have a link for the liquid rubber do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 1 hour ago, froggy8 said: you dont happen to have a link for the liquid rubber do you? Just something like this. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/instant-adhesives/loctite_4800.html It will depend on the type of damage as to whether that's suitable. 聽 If not, you can buy split boots like this, but would obviously need to check the size.聽 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161757630219? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 Just contacted ford with my vin number and they told me my balljoint size is 21mm. I am bit tempted to change both whole wishbone as I can imagine it would be bit easier than drilling and whatnot. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil3747 Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Yep, bit more expensive but much easier and quicker to change the whole wishbone.聽 I tried changing just the ball joint a few years ago with a drill bit and hammer and chisel (and no vice) but it literally took hours....don't do it聽馃槈 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 10 minutes ago, Phil3747 said: Yep, bit more expensive but much easier and quicker to change the whole wishbone.聽 I tried changing just the ball joint a few years ago with a drill bit and hammer and chisel (and no vice) but it literally took hours....don't do it聽馃槈 yeah i think il do the wishbone route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomsFocus Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 If you've got tools put for the wishbones, you might as well do track rod ends at the same time.聽 Will only need one trip to the garage for wheel alignment after doing both together as well. Obviously there's a big difference in cost between just repairing the TRE boots, or replacing wishbones & TRE's. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 25 minutes ago, TomsFocus said: If you've got tools put for the wishbones, you might as well do track rod ends at the same time.聽 Will only need one trip to the garage for wheel alignment after doing both together as well. Obviously there's a big difference in cost between just repairing the TRE boots, or replacing wishbones & TRE's. cheers tom sounds like a plan. ordering the parts soon then maybe start working on it in few weeks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bar72 Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Personally, I'd just run with advisories until next M.O.T. or car starts wandering about.聽 I'd be investigating the oil leak first before any other expense if you keeping her for the year.聽 Preventative maintenance on older cars is a waste of cash in my opinion and after spending a fortune on my old one (still ended up in scrappies). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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