So, I got the truck yesterday (Wildtrak 3.2L - 67 plate - 44k mileage). Today, a message popped up saying reduced engine power. For a split second, I was sure I seen an exhaust filter message, but can't find a way of accessing this previous message, annoyingly.

 

From reading, it looks as if this may be the dpf. Hopefully, tomorrow I'll have a OBDLink EX adapter arrive and I've downloaded forscan to check the soot load %. I'll also do a full scan. Because other times, I'm sure it's just the reduced power message and not always an exhaust one. I had previously used Carly and a cheaply generic OBD reader and done a scan. None of which shows any faults and there isn't any lights on the dash, no EML etc, and once you press ok, the engineer power message just disappears into the abyss.

 

My understanding is, if the soot level is sub 85% I can warm the truck and force a regen.

 

Is there anything I might be missing? Have I overlooked something?

 

Just to add, I did buy this from a dealership and I have made them aware of the fault today. So if all else fails, I'll be taking it back for them to fix. But, I wanted to try and cover what I could first.

4 hours ago, Zednero said:

So, I got the truck yesterday (Wildtrak 3.2L - 67 plate - 44k mileage). Today, a message popped up saying reduced engine power. For a split second, I was sure I seen an exhaust filter message, but can't find a way of accessing this previous message, annoyingly.

 

From reading, it looks as if this may be the dpf. Hopefully, tomorrow I'll have a OBDLink EX adapter arrive and I've downloaded forscan to check the soot load %. I'll also do a full scan. Because other times, I'm sure it's just the reduced power message and not always an exhaust one. I had previously used Carly and a cheaply generic OBD reader and done a scan. None of which shows any faults and there isn't any lights on the dash, no EML etc, and once you press ok, the engineer power message just disappears into the abyss.

 

My understanding is, if the soot level is sub 85% I can warm the truck and force a regen.

 

Is there anything I might be missing? Have I overlooked something?

 

Just to add, I did buy this from a dealership and I have made them aware of the fault today. So if all else fails, I'll be taking it back for them to fix. But, I wanted to try and cover what I could first.

The quickest way to force it to regen n clear out the stupid add-on out is add 2 stroke red oil n your fuel it'll raise the temperature quicker n clears the soot out. dpf are the biggest money makers the vehicle factory's came out with. The biggest part of old school diesels never fail emissions because of this.

The way l see it if they was needed why did they add secondary air pups to recirculate the emissions to be burn again it's just an add on con.

3 hours ago, doggsbody said:

The quickest way to force it to regen n clear out the stupid add-on out is add 2 stroke red oil n your fuel it'll raise the temperature quicker n clears the soot out. dpf are the biggest money makers the vehicle factory's came out with. The biggest part of old school diesels never fail emissions because of this.

The way l see it if they was needed why did they add secondary air pups to recirculate the emissions to be burn again it's just an add on con.

My limited and perhaps wrong  understanding is, no matter what I do or add currently, the truck will not start an automatic regen due to the warning, as essentially it's in a type of limp mode that has turned this function off. In my younger years, I've had DPF's deleted, but these days that all seems much more complicated to get done properly.

See Jimmy for perhaps more valid advice (DPF is usually victim of another fault - don't let them clean it or force regen without fixing the fault that's causing it to clog - if that's what it is)
https://www.youtube.com/@ORileysAutos

Edit: come back with the Forscan codes and DPF pressure differential readings at engine off, idle and 3000 rev/min please!

So, I've done the scan and I also checked the soot load. (Attached grainy pic) - I think the dpf looks okay. Not quite sure about the ridiculous 2213% reading though but 22g soot, I think indicates it's not a block.

It looks as if it's the DEF heat unit (AdBlue heater?)

Please let me know if I've missed something, or if there's a real easy fix I've overlooked. Thanks

Below I'll paste the text file;

 

===OBD2_TCM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II (TCM)

===END OBD2_TCM DTC None===

===OBD2_PCM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II (PCM)

===END OBD2_PCM DTC None===

===DCU DTC P20BA:00-EC===

Code: P20BA - Reductant Heater 'A' Control Circuit Performance

Status (-EC):

 - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

 - Test not complete

Module: Reductant Control Module

 Freeze Frame #1:

-LOAD: 63.53 % - Calculated Load Value

-ECT: 47 °C - Engine coolant temperature

-RPM: 1737 1/min - Engine Revolutions Per Minute

-VSS: 57.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed

-RUNTM: 305 s - Time Since Engine Start

-BARO: 100.0 kPa - Barometric pressure

-VPWR: 14.26 V - Control Module Voltage

-AAT: 9 °C - Ambient Air Temperature

-APP_D: 19.61 % - Accelerator Pedal Position D

===END DCU DTC P20BA:00-EC===

===TCM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Transmission Control Module

===END TCM DTC None===

===PCM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Powertrain Control Module

===END PCM DTC None===

===APIM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Accessory Protocol Interface Module

===END APIM DTC None===

===PAM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Parking Aid Module

===END PAM DTC None===

===BdyCM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Body Control Module

===END BdyCM DTC None===

===FCIM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Front Controls Interface Module

===END FCIM DTC None===

===TRM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Trailer Module

===END TRM DTC None===

===ABS DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Antilock braking system

===END ABS DTC None===

===RTM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Radio Transceiver Module

===END RTM DTC None===

===RCM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Restraint Control Module

===END RCM DTC None===

===PSCM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Power Steering Control Module

===END PSCM DTC None===

===ACM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Audio Control Module

===END ACM DTC None===

===SCCM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Steering Column Control Module

===END SCCM DTC None===

===IPC DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Instrument Panel Control Module

===END IPC DTC None===

===GWM DTC None===

Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Gateway Module A

===END GWM DTC None===

5 hours ago, Shearers said:

See Jimmy for perhaps more valid advice (DPF is usually victim of another fault - don't let them clean it or force regen without fixing the fault that's causing it to clog - if that's what it is)
https://www.youtube.com/@ORileysAutos

Edit: come back with the Forscan codes and DPF pressure differential readings at engine off, idle and 3000 rev/min please!

Sorry, didn't quote you properly for the reply, but I've posted what I found in another reply. 👍🏻 

The 2213% looks stupid but I'd be investigating by, as said looking at DPF differential pressure values which are the raw data.
The AdBlue system appears to have a fault (I know little about it) but I'd be adding the fluid that supposedly stops it crystallising once the fault is fixed (Jimmy has a video on that nozzle repair etc)

So I have the truck booked in to go to a garage on Monday morning. And today, another new weird symptom. Don't think it's related, as there still isn't an eml, just the warning about reduced engine power.

 

But today, a few times now, after starting her up, I start driving and it just cuts out. I noticed earlier (20 mins ago) that the red battery light flashes a few times. Then another warning saying "see manual" with a yellow spanner. After I restarted, it cut out again twice, then it started again and drove with no problem. This morning, it cut out after maybe 30 seconds of driving and then after a restart, just started and didn't cut out again.

 

This truck is frustrating me already. 😂