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Guide To Fitting Additional Boot Light In Ford Focus Mk2 And Mk2.5


Lenny
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Guide to Fitting additional Boot Light in Ford Focus Mk2 and Mk2.5

This Guide is now Available in Downloadable PDF Format, which can be Printed to Paper to better assist you with the Modification

Guide Additional Boot Light.pdf

Fitting time takes around 3-4 hours depending on Personal experience

And the tools you require being where you expect them to be first time you look for them.tongue.gif

This guide is a good reference to fitting an additional boot light or additional light in any area of the car,

Below is the Shopping list of items required to complete this guide yourself ive included links to exactly the same items I have purchased, where possible items have all been purchased from the same seller in order to reduce shipping costs,wink.gif

You will require the following items:

  • A New Stanley Blade as I don't have a Dremel Purchased in local DIY Store
  • 2 x Custom Built For Ford Boot light Led bulb 2x required Click Here
  • Fabric Car Loom Tape Click Here
  • FLAME RETARDANT Electrical PVC Insulation Tape 19mm wide Click Here
  • Double Sided Sticky Pads Heavy Duty Exterior Grade Click Here
  • Twin Core 15Amp 12V DC Power Cable 4Metres Required Click Here
  • Electrical Wire Cable Snap Lock Splice Connectors RED Click Here
  • Safety Glasses (Seriously) Click Here
  • Ford Boot light Unit Like this one Click Here shop around for the best price on this item, the one I have used was removed from a 1997 Ford Fiesta and is identical to the original one fitted in my 2010 Focus Mk2.5 so there a standard fitment with a broad range of models they can be obtained from.
I Purchased mine on eBay for £2.99 removed from a 1997 Fiesta smile.gifClick Here

Total Cost for supplies is £25.66 excluding P&P,

Stanley Blade and light unit which prices can vary

All of the three E-bay sellers linked for all items listed above dispatch same day and are all 100% reliable and Great to deal with, the parts they supply are low cost and high quality so you can buy with confidence and Trust.

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As you can see in the Picture Above I Purchased 6 Metres Of Cable but 4Metres is enough to complete the project.

Fitting Instructions

Firstly get a small section of cardboard and draw the inner frame of the light unit on to the cardboard, once completely drawn use a Stanley blade to cut out the shape,

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Once cut out try the bulb unit for fitment, as you will see in the pictures the first slot I have cut out ended up too big, I have continued to post this error in the guide to highlight the importance of cutting on cardboard first as it would be a proper mess had the first cut been the panel in the car,

I have cut out the second slot successfully and as you can see in the pictures, i have included measurements beside the slots, please note these measurements are a guide as to what size you should cut out of your cardboard template,this may save you some time not having to trace the light on to cardboard yourself by using the measurements in the picture,

Always cut the template on cardboard prior to cutting the plastic panels as if an error is made, it can be a very expensive one to replace.

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Once the template is correct and the light fits snugly inside, cut a straight edge on the side of the cardboard, measure the location of your existing boot light and position your new boot light on the opposite side in relation to these position measurements,

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Once you have the template lined up where you want it to be, Using a Felt tip Marker colour in the box area you wish to cut out,

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Then if you have a Dremel cut out the plastic with the relevant cutting Blade for Plastic Material,

Alternatively if like me you don't have a Dremel but have a Standard electric Drill, using the smallest Drill bit you have in my case it was a 2mm Bit, Drill a hole in the four edges of the coloured in box, you have aligned and marked on the plastic trim.

The best position I have found for carrying out this, is to lie on your back in the boot compartment looking up at the sky, however I can't stress enough to always wear safety glasses when working like this as I Guarantee you are sure to have plastic fragments falling in your face and eyes lying in this position, and I guarantee you won't just wash it out with water, very painful blink.gif

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Once the holes are drilled use a Stanley blade to continuously scour across the edge of the coloured in box, going repeatedly from drilled hole to drilled hole pushing firmly on the knife inching your way through the plastic, prepare for this part of the job to take 20-30 minutes, the purpose of drilling the holes in the four corners is to ensure the blade doesn't over shoot and cut the plastic where you don't want it to cut, i.e. if the blade slips it won't slide any further than the drilled hole so no unpleasant scratches left behind.

Once this pain staking part is over and the plastic piece is removed,

Check the hole for fitment and pare the edges as required.

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Continued On Next Post Below ...cool.gif

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Next step is to splice the cables to the light fitting,

Determining which cable is Positive and which in negative is not really that relevant at this point as we will determine that when joining up to the power supply at the opposite side of the car,

So taking two of the red splicing clips insert one core of the new cable in to one side end of the clip,

on the opposite side insert one core from the light fitting,

as shown in the picture below,

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then flap the lid on the clip hold the connection steady and using a vice grips squeeze the clip closed as result the gelatine style metal blade will grip the cables and bridge an electrical connection between the two cables,

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Not Actual Image of that exact Splice connector being crimped this image is purley for Instruction Purposes

Using your Flame retardant insulating tape; wrap the connectors tightly keeping them wrapped individually once this process has been completed on both connections, begin to remove the spare tyre and panels from the rear of the car. and flap the rear seat foward.

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Once the tyre is removed and the carpet etc. Begin removing the plastic trim,

So starting with the bottom centre strip (Labelled Number 1 in the picture) using a flat head screwdriver pop out the four black retaining clips seen in the picture below, once these have been removed store them in half an empty plastic bottle or Pringles tin etc. As these items if lost can be a nightmare to find from a dealership. Once these retaining clips have been removed put your fingers from both hands under the panel and the gently pull outwards towards the front of the car and upwards towards yourself.

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Next step is to remove the two screws from either side of the panels that are under the parcel shelf, also store these in half a plastic bottle until finished,

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Once these screws have been removed, put one hand under the plastic trim where the carpet goes up under the trim and gently pull the plastic trim towards the centre of the boot compartment, do not try to remove this panel completely, just part it enough that you can work in behind it worth your hand to fish the cable along, as seen in the pictures,

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Once these panels are open, put your hand under the panel on the curve of the boot door either side at the bottom, (labelled number 2 in the picture) gently pull these off and store the 3 removed panels in a safe area away from the car where there is no risk of them being stood on or tripped over.

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Once these have been removed, you will now see where the cable can be fished along the metal body work, you will now have an idea of exactly how much cable is required from the coil,

Continued On Next Post Below ...cool.gif

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So generously line the cable as if you were fitting it permanently,

Down around the body and up to the original light cable, once you reach the original light unit, give yourself another 2-3 inches of cable and snip with a pliers at that length.

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Now going back to the spliced connection made previously on the new light unit, begin to wrap the cable and joints completely with the Fabric car loom tape, as you can see the cable above has already been wrapped.

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when wrapping with this Fabric tape, Use the Method Of: wrap over half of your previous wrap each time you rotate around the cable,

keeping it as tight as possible, and ensuring there are no kinks or twists in the cable,

again wrapping over half the tape each time. Keep wrapping until you reach the final length 2-3 inches of cable then stop and cut the Fabric tape from the roll.

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Using the splicing clips again tap in to the cables at the back of the original light fitting,

keep in mind this original light unit will need excess cable to be removed for bulb change etc.

So make the splice as far up the cable as possible,

This is where we determine the positive and negative feeds, according to the Mk2 and Mk2.5 Focus Diesel Haynes Manual

The positive+ feed is coloured Black and Blue,

So splice this with the red cable on the feed.

And the Negative Feed - Being Blue and Orange,

So splice this with the black feed,

preferably splice these cables at different lenths on the line to avoid having a bulk of connectors at ine fixed point,

spread them along the cable as seen in the following few pictures.

also there is no need to cut the original cables the splicing clips can slide over them and the blade will bridge the terminals togeather,

so no need to cut the loom of the boot light.

Image0978.jpg

As this feed is designed to run the new bulb and there is no real importance to signify the positive and negative feed when running a bulb once both are present in the fitment,

it is better to have it politically correct in the event of the car being sold and the new owner taps in to the cable for power to another item its best to have the red cable being the actual positive + feed and

the black being the actual negative - in this feed as this is a Common assumption.

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Continued On Next Post Below ...cool.gif

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Once your connections have been spliced you will have power running to both light sockets, when fitting the LED Bulbs in the units if they don't work first time you fit, take them out and turn them around, they will work the second time, as LED Bulbs have a positive and negative one way feed, unlike regular bulbs which will work in either flow of current.

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Also when connections are spliced and crimped, wrap tightly with the electrical insulating tape to waterproof the connections, followed by mummifying the loom with the fabric loom tape,

Image0987.jpg

Now for the strip of cable across the car, using the Double sided sticky pads, trap the cable between two of the pads, then peel off one side and stick to the body as seen in the picture, perform this action as many times as desired to retain the cable from flapping around inside the panels.

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Once securing the cable has been completed, give a light Hoover around where the interior trim sits on the body to ensure there are no pieces of cable or dirt, that may affect them going back in to place properly,

First piece of trim to go back in are the two corner (elbow) panels labelled Part: 02 line them up with the holes and gently push them in to place. Also ensuring that the trim above it. The pieces that support the parcel shelve; ensure this overlap on top of Part 2 prior to pushing Part 2 in to placement.

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Next push the side panels back in to place, (Panels that support Parcel Shelve) Firmly push all around the panels with the palm of your hands ensuring a snug fit and examine for clips not resting properly, or gaps in the trim, prior to re-inserting the 2 screws in both sides of the car.

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Final Piece of trim to be fitted is Part Number 1, align it up with the sockets in the body and gently press with the palms of your hands all around the panel inch by inch ensuring a tight fit, followed by re-inserting the 4 screw like plugs in to the rear of the panel.

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Continued On Next Post Below ...cool.gif

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Another Very Important part at the end, to prevet you boot from leaking, ensure the rubber seal is overlapint the trim allaround the door, if it's not just pull with your fingers till it overlaps again like it should.

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A quick Hoover of the boot to remove cable remains and replace spare tyre etc.

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One Last press around the rubber seal prior to closing the boot down ensuring the rubber is flapped over the trim all around,

And thats it.

Job Done biggrin.gif

I hope this guide is Useful to other ford owners and thanks for reading.

Check my signature at the bottom of my posts for a list of Guides I've made.

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Night Shots

I switched the flash off on the camera,

it was almost pitch black around the car except for a small glow from a near street light, which can be seen on the rear bumper and side of the body.

But the white light this is purely the bulbs, and Ive placed white A2 Pages in the boot to better display the distribution of the light thats being emitted by the two bulbs. (one either side) Very happy with the end result.

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Thanks For Looking!

Please Check my List of Guides Listed Below For More Information. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/cool.gif

Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS rear Diffuser Click Here

Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS Front Lip spoiler Click Here

Is Your Focus Rusting Click Here For More Information

Guide To Activating Single & Multi Door Unlock on yor Ford Click Here

Guide To Spraying Rear View Mirror Click Here

Guide To Changing Lower Front Grill On Mk2.5 Focus Click Here

The Ultamate Reverse Bulb Click Here

Guide to Fitting Custom Built Climate Controls on Focus Click Here

Guide to Converting Rear Fog Light To Clear Click Here

Custom Lazer Cut Interior Parts For Your Ford Click Here

Ford Serial Number Without Removing Stereo Click Here

Guide to Fitting New Ford Mist Type Jets on all Models Click Here

Guide to Fitting additional Boot Light Click Here

The Ultimate Rear Seat Protection Click Here

Guide To Storing Vehicle For Long Periods Click Here

Guide To Fitting ST Gauge Pod To Focus Dash Click Here

Guide To Fitting Focus Led badge Light Click Here

Guide To Fitting Second Reverse Light Ford Focus Mk2.5 Click Here

Guide to Fitting Auto Dimmer Unit to Gauges or DRL's Click Here

Guide to Fitting additional 12v Socket in Boot of Focus Click Here

Full ZetecS Kit Fitted to Mk2.5 Focus Click Here

Guide to Fitting Footwell Lighting In Your Ford Click Here

Guide to Induction Filter Upgrade in Your Ford Click Here

Guide to Fitting Custom Bonnet Dampers Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here

Guide to wiper Blade Change Focus Mk2 Mk2.5 Click Here

Guide to Fitting EGR Blanking Plate 1,6TDCi Click Here

Guide to fitting Ford puddle lights Focus 05-12 Click Here

Guide to Fitting Genuine focus RS LED tail lights Mk2.5 Click Here

.

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This is a fantastic guide! I really enjoyed reading through it, your screwdriver looks familiar I think I've got the same set :P.

Everytime I read one of your guides it makes me wonder why I'm wasting time talking about it when I should be doing the same jobs to mine :D

Dan

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Great guide again Lenny , i could never understand why Ford only put one low watt light in the boot at very least should be what you have done and be 2 lights. Nice one Lenny

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i upgraded the bulb in my boot to one of those 5 LED super bright things...makes looking in the boot at night, especially on the moors where there are no street lights. so adding this will be even better...

but i do wish lenny you will stop making these guides...its making my "to do" list bigger! :lol: nah im only kidding keep them coming!! :lol:

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i upgraded the bulb in my boot to one of those 5 LED super bright things...makes looking in the boot at night, especially on the moors where there are no street lights. so adding this will be even better...

but i do wish lenny you will stop making these guides...its making my "to do" list bigger! :lol: nah im only kidding keep them coming!! :lol:

Great guide again Lenny , i could never understand why Ford only put one low watt light in the boot at very least should be what you have done and be 2 lights. Nice one Lenny

Thanks for the comments guys, very happy with the results on this one,

looking foward to fitting the second Custom built Led cluster in the boot too,

ill be laying low on the guides again for the momment, :lol:

its a case of back to the drawing board for me, need some more insperation and ideas :huh:

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Night pics looks good , now thats how a boot should be , direct from ford , one light is not enough and its only fair that when the wife get to annoying she will need decent light in the boot to carry on reading out map directions,

My boot is not that tidy either :lol: , hanging my head in shame i now need to go out and hoover it out.

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Night pics looks good , now thats how a boot should be , direct from ford , one light is not enough and its only fair that when the wife get to annoying she will need decent light in the boot to carry on reading out map directions,

My boot is not that tidy either :lol: , hanging my head in shame i now need to go out and hoover it out.

My boot wasn't that clean either mate,

but I received a Finger wagging from members,

when i posted some picture of the laser cut parts fitted on the other thread,

So I thought I had better take heed of it and whip out the Hoover

before I took some picture's

I had to get the Mrs. to give me a brief induction on the workings of the thing,

useful Machine 'the hoover'

notice how I covered the carpet with paper in the other pictures, display the power of the lights and also hide the dirt :P

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well after finally having the time to get stuck into some mods today , Fitted SMD Led lights to door handles and then onto Lenny's Extra light.

Thanks to Lenny for the Bulb and Bits , i ordered a Light off Fleabay .

As the day was getting on i choose a different wiring location as i was being lazy , but its just as safe as i run my badge light wire's down the same route.

I used 1 inch insulation tape which was exact width of the light hole , and 45 mm long and stuck it where i wanted the light , i then drilled inside the edge of the tape all the way around and used a stanley knife to trim the sides.

Lenny can you send me a link please m8 so i can get another one of those Led's w5w you sent me please to i can match it , its super bright and bulb in other side is like a wet candle haha.

Thanks Lenny for a great guide.

Heres where i ran the cables.

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By preeee at 2011-10-29

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By preeee at 2011-10-29

Night pics did not come out to well so won't post them.

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Well after finally having the time to get stuck into some mods today , Fitted SMD Led lights to door handles and then onto Lenny's Extra light.

As the day was getting on i choose a different wiring location as i was being lazy , but its just as safe as i run my Badge light wire's down the same route.

Lenny can you send me a link please m8 so i can get another one of those Led's w5w you sent me please to i can match it , its super bright and bulb in other side is like a wet candle haha.

Thanks Lenny for a great guide.

Night pics did not come out to well so won't post them.

Hi Pree,

the choice of route for the cable saved you around an hour of instulation time with the same outcome mate looks great.

here's a link to the custom led bulb's you wont get any brighter bulb to fit in the stock unit, these are designed specific for the unit with maximum effect.

Click Here there a nice 6000k which will match the reg plate led's nicely.

perhaps you could upload a night shot when you get the second led fitted in the opposite side.

nice work mate looks great B)

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  • 2 weeks later...

this is a top quality MOD... dont know if im brave enough to remove soo many panels lol... plus would ford say anything when i take it in for a service if i had a load of LED's in the car as iv still got 2 years warranty??

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this is a top quality MOD... dont know if im brave enough to remove soo many panels lol... plus would ford say anything when i take it in for a service if i had a load of LED's in the car as iv still got 2 years warranty??

I can’t see them having a problem with it mate,

As your only extending the power supply to the opposite side of the car, you’re not modifying as such,

And it can easily be removed again if needs be but your using a genuine for part on the opposite side of the boot.

Pree has installed a second boot light the same as i have and he has routed his cable along the top of the boot, which seems to be a quicker and easier option without removing the panels mate.

Its well worth installing. B)

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this is a top quality MOD... dont know if im brave enough to remove soo many panels lol... plus would ford say anything when i take it in for a service if i had a load of LED's in the car as iv still got 2 years warranty??

well i can answer that easily , mine had its service yesterday and not one word said and mine is lit up like a xmas tree with all the mods i have added see list in my Sig below ,as i said Ford said nothing and i would not of expected them too either.

Maybe if i had made a Mod that could possibly damaged the integrity of the engine or safety system or similar then thats different.

Every thing i have added is fused and safe.

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thanks for the heads up pree, i haven't got any excuses now, so MOD's it is lol does anyone know where i can get a cheap tester (just so i can find out if ive got power going to the footwell cable tied up behind the glove box)?

thanks again

aaron

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thanks for the heads up pree, i haven't got any excuses now, so MOD's it is lol does anyone know where i can get a cheap tester (just so i can find out if ive got power going to the footwell cable tied up behind the glove box)?

thanks again

aaron

Heres a cheap and cheerfull one

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2c4fe8da02

Alot more then just voltage checking , but there are loads up there to choose from

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, just wondering if you could advise me on fitting these to a mk1 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-CAR-AUTO-12-GREEN-EXTERIOR-INTERIOR-NEON-LIGHT-314-/250862497057?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6891ed21 Would I just have to solder the positive and negative to the retrospective wires on the original light wire, and then wrap the connection in insulation tape. Thanks for the advice.

P.S. Can someone also give me a hint at how you make you link come as for an example click here link

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Hi Mate,

yes you simply connect them to the existing positive andnegative of the boot light then remove the bulb from the boot light ifrequired,

however I used to have these type in my last car and theydon't last 12months mate, not very bright either as their 1 led in the topbeaming down the tube, not actually a florescent tube,

I wouldn't solder the connection rather take out the bootlight temporarily,

then 2-3 inches back from the bulb unit; get a knife andpeel off the cable insulation like peeling a carrot, then wrap the wire of thenew cable on to it, then wrap the connection in tape

depending on the results you had in mind mate, theselights would be better for life span, and light but depends on where you wantto fit click Here no need to screw them either just doublesided sticky pads and daisy chain them up to one connection with this cable ClickHere

when i was installing my light i used this tape ClickHere its harder wearing as its nylon rather than plastic but regularinsulating tape is fine too.

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