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escort van zetec conversion

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Could anyone tell me which wires I need to change to run my 1800 escort zetec motor in my 75d van? Or am I right in saying I just need to change the whole engine loom back to the ECU?

Thanks Sam

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Hi and welcome to the club.

Yea you will have to change the entire loom and ECU etc etc.

By the way, the conversion is well worth doing. I bought mine already converted and by god didnt it surprise a few people.

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Ive been to the scrappers today and got the wiring loom for the engine and ecu all the way to the fusebox. I got a 2.0 mondeo ecu, cams and throttle body to get me 130bhp standard. I was thinking about making my own loom for the fuel pump using a pump, tank and lines from a petrol van. I will update this page when Ive got all this fitted.

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Just thought i would follow up this topic so people can find out what to do. Its a !Removed! when people dont share there info.

Zetec 75 Van is finished. I had to drop in the 18 lump, box and cooling system from another escort car. I had to change the entire wiring loom (interior inc behind dash, all exterior, fusebox and clocks) This is not a bad job as everything plugs into everything for the most part. I did use a fragment of the old rear light wiring, joining it to the petrol loom (which has fuel pump wires) at the top of the offside B pillar. I used some 2.0 mondeo cams, throttle body and ecu to get 130bhp which means you cant tell when your loaded up unlike the crappy diesel which drinks all its fuel when you put a bit of something in the back. For the fuelling I got hold of the petrol tank with electric pump, cut out the bit where it mounts and welded it to my existing tank. The pump just fits in the diesel swirl pot. I have fitted the petrol fuel lines and vacuum line as-well as they fit in the existing clips.

To use the 2.0 mondeo ecu, or a 1.8 for that matter, you have to swap a few wires on the ecu multiplug. here is an extract from the guide I used;

The end of the ecu multiplug has a large red plastic centre. Remove it carefully using a small pick or screwdriver. You will then be able to see a small plastic clip holding in each wire. Use the small pick to bend these clips back so you can pull the wire out from the back.

Remove the pats wires from 39 and 22 (if applicable). Tape these up securely and then tape them to the loom, out of the way. Their metal contacts must not touch each other.

Remove the air con wire (35) and tape it out the way as a temporary measure.

Remove the fuel pump wire (53) and re-fit in hole 22.

Now the injectors:

Inj. 1 - hole 15, remove and refit to hole 51

Inj. 2 - hole 12, remove and refit to hole 52

Inj. 3 - hole 54, remove and refit to hole 39

Inj. 4 - hole 42, remove and refit to hole 35

Remove the octane adjust wire (29) and refit to hole 42.

Remove the starter inhibit relay earth (32) and this needs to be connected to a new suitable earth. Look inside the A-pillar and you should find one easily enough. If you don't do this, the starter will not work!

Untape your aircon wire which you have already removed and re-fit to hole 54.

Re-fit the red plastic insert into the end of the ecu multiplug and bolt the plug back onto the ecu.

Thats it, but make sure you mark up the wires first before you move them in case you make a mistake.

You also need to make a new charge cable with some 10mm cable from the starter live to the alternator supply due to the fact the starter will now be at the rear of the engine.

Lastly for the exhaust you can just join the escort petrol cat to the existing diesel system using a reducer. I used a fiesta si cat I already had, and had to weld a bit more pipe to te existing exhaust, and angle it to make it reach and fit. I think the only other option to what ive already mentioned is shedding out for a powerflow custom stainless if you dont fancy the diesel peashooter, however ive left my van looking standard to give it the element of surprise.

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