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Guide Fitting Second Reverse Light Ford Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5


Lenny
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Finally got around to doing this mod :D cree's not in yet but ....

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/54137-slower-than-the-slow-focus-mk2-build-d/?p=345095

sorry couldn't find how to add photo from build thread to here.

Many Thanks to Lenny for his guide, and all of you who have contributed. :D

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  • 2 months later...

Found this topic really useful in getting this done on my ST a while ago now - did do a version 1 before I saw this which used bulbs and holders out of another make of car as I hadn't thought there was room to fit 2 standard bulbs into the lamps. Problem with these was they were a pretty rare fitment and there were no CREE or decent LED's available to upgrade the bulbs.

So version 2 followed most of the guide on here, managed to get a damaged lamp off a Focus I spotted near to home - got the owner a new one at discount price and fitted it in exchange and got standard fog lamp off a car that had upgraded to clear version. Main difference after that was plastic welding the new holder on and being able to get the matching male and female wiring plugs so I could plug everything into the standard loom instead of having to splice wires etc.

Found the wiring parts at RS Components - they're called Sicma 2-way connectors, or Sicma3.

2-way male housing RS part no. 673-7777

2-way female 673-7755

then you need suitable pins

male sicma3 pin 1.5mm 673-7868

female sicma3 pin 1.5mm 673-7852

Had to buy 100 of the male pins so got tons spare just don't know where.

Worked a treat once all done and fitted with the CREE bulbs, the place I get all my ST jobs done at were really impressed.

Tried posting links for these but the computer said no :(

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Thanks lenny been searching for a holder for months

FYI theres still 1 left :)

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Thanks lenny been searching for a holder for months

FYI theres still 1 left :)

glad i was able to further assist ,
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If people are struggling to get hold of the holders (pun not intended) it might be worth putting some requests out to people who swapped from red to clear rear foglights etc? that's how I got 1 of my spares, luckily foc but was prepared to pay if needed.

That way you'll also have the second stub needed to graft on to turn a lamp into dual fitment :)

On second thoughts I must have ended up with more holders than I needed, need to check my spares :wacko:

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If people are struggling to get hold of the holders (pun not intended) it might be worth putting some requests out to people who swapped from red to clear rear foglights etc? that's how I got 1 of my spares, luckily foc but was prepared to pay if needed.

That way you'll also have the second stub needed to graft on to turn a lamp into dual fitment :)

On second thoughts I must have ended up with more holders than I needed, need to check my spares :wacko:

Thanks for the info mate but the bulb holder comes supplied with the clear len housing when purchased,

That part is generally not a problem.

However the part people find difficult to get hold of is: the moulded loom plug with some cable attached.

It plugs in to the bulb socket as saw attached to the roll of cable in image below:

Image1432.jpg

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I know the plug you mean. I put some details on part numbers to order them from RS plus pins etc in an earlier post, did try to add links but every time I get stuck at the dialogue box and can't get back to my reply :(

Got a few spare plugs pre-wired available if they're that rare.

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Ive been searching for a while and my next step would of been to remove the connector from my car and go into ford but whether they would have them I doubt it

Sent from my C6903 using Ford OC mobile app

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I know the plug you mean. I put some details on part numbers to order them from RS plus pins etc in an earlier post, did try to add links but every time I get stuck at the dialogue box and can't get back to my reply :(

Got a few spare plugs pre-wired available if they're that rare.

if you can make them with say 2 metres of loom attached im sure you would make a nice little business selling them through this guide,

Soldering and heat shrinking is somthing i could never manage to do, id be happy to pay for a moulded plug with sufficent loom would make the job alot easier only having to splice once inside the boot.

If you have the time and funds to invest id make up 3-5 of them, surly worth 15 pounds each inc. Labour

Dave at AutoStar electronics linked on first page of this thread can supply the required cable, bought in bulk would be cheaper and using your focus as a template to cut the loom to the correct length leaving additional 3-4 inches excess for splicing.

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Ive been searching for a while and my next step would of been to remove the connector from my car and go into ford but whether they would have them I doubt it

Sent from my C6903 using Ford OC mobile app

ford wouldnt have it mate, they would supply the full loom only.
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ford wouldnt have it mate, they would supply the full loom only.

Sounds about right for ford
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Sounds about right for ford

Computer says No..

Thats why i obtained my own copy of ford MicroCat software,

"Do you see what i see" :lol:

Its the exact software they use, enabling us to browse parts then go in with the part numbers and request the part,

No more hassle trying to explain part and why i want it, just order part number FINISxxxxxxx thank you

Part7.png

boot.png

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While the ones I've got do have some wire on them it's only short sections so I would have to splice and heatshrink extra cable onto them.

It'd take me a bit of time to get under my car to try and measure the wiring I put in - at the time I did it I had access to a pit which made it a lot easier and from memory I was able to clip across the rear bumper above the diffuser where there were already some un-used moulded tabs which I suspect would be for models with parking aids and I connected mine to the plugs already under the car rather than going up into the boot. Also not sure if the routing would then be the same for other models of Focus. Course the answer to that would be adding on another 6 inches or so of cable.

If you were to buy the raw connectors and pins you could make up leads without having to do any soldering at all - for the second boot light mod I was able to buy the bulb holder from Ford and when it came you got the plastic holder plus the 2 un-terminated pins to make up the connector rather than it having pre-fitted cables. Ford must have the ability to order spare connectors in the event of them getting damaged but how they do this might be outside of the microcat ordering process.

Honestly don't know when I'll get the time to jack the car up and rummage around under there, with me having plundered info off here for a few of my mods I'd be happy to provide some of the connectors foc if people wanted to add their own cabling onto them.

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You'll be able to get the bulb holders from Ford, the tricky bit is always the plug that connects the loom to the holder.

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You can get the equivalent connector plugs from RS ;)

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You can get the equivalent connector plugs from RS ;)

+1 cut out the ford dealer middle man and possibly better quality from RS (Radionics)

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I've just ordered all the pieces for this mod including the connectors suggested by troy45 i will be attempting this next weekend fingers crossed it goes well, plus the drl's are on order.

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Nice one :)

On the off-chance the RS female plugs don't want to plug into the Ford bulb holders just check if there's a little raised rib on the side of the female connector - to allow these connectors to be used in different applications they have a few different little caps that go on the ends and the rib position varies to match different male connectors but of the same type - error-proofing as you'd say. Easily removed with a Stanley knife or similar.

And if you're going for CREE bulbs make sure to swap the polarity over from the Ford end of things, if not already on your list.

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I'll have a close look at the connectors when I pick them up I'm sure I'll figure them out lol, regarding the cree bulbs I didn't realise you had to swap the polarity good job you mentioned it. Cheers

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No problem, the info may already be here somewhere but I thought there was no harm mentioning it,

Caught me out when I first bought some CREE's and they wouldn't work when I tested them on the car (before the mod) but they worked just fine when I put them on a 12V power supply.

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I'll have a close look at the connectors when I pick them up I'm sure I'll figure them out lol, regarding the cree bulbs I didn't realise you had to swap the polarity good job you mentioned it. Cheers

No problem, the info may already be here somewhere but I thought there was no harm mentioning it,

Caught me out when I first bought some Cree's and they wouldn't work when I tested them on the car (before the mod) but they worked just fine when I put them on a 12V power supply.

i didn't need reverse polarity when i fitted Cree bulbs,

If you read up on Cree it says they work in both 12 and 24v supply straight swap canbus compatable,

There is a China version of replica cree bulbs on eBay perhaps that's why they were not working for people because they are reverse polarity,

I always bought then from alltronix.co.uk guaranteed genuine Cree from the USA bought in the UK there also supplier of the new model cree http://www.alltronix.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=517

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Genuine Cree bulbs have smart polarity so should not need switching around to work.

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Genuine Cree bulbs have smart polarity so should not need switching around to work.

suppose best thing to do is cut the main connection to the reverse supply and connect again using insulated spade connectors,

Then if you need to reverse polarity just swap connection plugs,

But as said genuine cree dont need reversing parden the pun lol

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I've never read up that much on CREE's, mainly gotten mine from mylitco on eBay and they seem to work well with no problems. I'll look at the seller you've used but sods law says I've pretty much kitted all my bulbs out with CREE's already.

To check polarity etc before finally making wiring up I just used couple of pieces of connector block to work out polarity that worked, before soldering and heatshrinking the joints - was much easier than trying to match wiring colours from one side of the car to the other.

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