Lenny Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 I have activated the DDS but i have drum brakes on the rear of my car not Discs. so will this work on all 4 wheels? and how do i know it is working? without slashing my tyres of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preee Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 I have activated the DDS but i have drum brakes on the rear of my car not Discs. so will this work on all 4 wheels? and how do i know it is working? without slashing my tyres of course. I have drum brakes on rear too. Press and hold to set them , then go for a drive , then come back and let a little pressure out and go for a drive agian it should report low pressure warning as your wheel will be traveling at a different speed to the others , then go and put some air back in and then reset it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sliveredge Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 I have activated the DDS but i have drum brakes on the rear of my car not Discs. so will this work on all 4 wheels? and how do i know it is working? without slashing my tyres of course. you will still have ABS sensors in all 4 wheels as the ESP uses these as well, the only way of testing it is to let some are out to maybe 25psi and drive it around the block slowly i will be tryin it out that way in the next few days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lenny Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 you will still have ABS sensors in all 4 wheels as the ESP uses these as well, the only way of testing it is to let some are out to maybe 25psi and drive it around the block slowly i will be tryin it out that way in the next few days i fill my tyres to 15Psi all the time because its cleaper than Eibach lowering springs only joking!! thanks ill give that a try myself and see if it puts up a message or see what it says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajt Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 What i would try first is on page one of this guide , get your AS-Built data for your Vin number from the website , connect to your car with ELM-FF2. Use the load AS-Built for GEM and find the correct default value then click send to return to default using the AS Built data for your VIN number. Or can you connect with ELMconfig by means of load your saved default file then select SEND , meaning connect via com port , load file then send don't try and read. *EDIT* from what i have just read DDS was not available until the facelift Model Mk2.5 @Preee , thank you Your first suggestion "as built" worked line a charm. I had already tried to do that though, but forgot you only needed to cut and paste the first line! I had my tea, reread the thread and thought to myself "What an idiot". Still all back up and running now. Dissapointed I cant get DDS. Cant get ECO mode or Up Shift to work either. Seems alot was missed from the MK2 :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preee Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 @Preee , thank you Your first suggestion "as built" worked line a charm. I had already tried to do that though, but forgot you only needed to cut and paste the first line! I had my tea, reread the thread and thought to myself "What an idiot". Still all back up and running now. Dissapointed I cant get DDS. Cant get ECO mode or Up Shift to work either. Seems alot was missed from the MK2 :( Your welcome ajt , i'm just glad it's fixed , :) . Besides the visual aspects of Mk2 and Mk2.5 changes if you read this thread it goes through most of the changes that were added to the Mk.2.5 from mk2 http://www.topspeed.com/cars/ford/2009-ford-focus-european-model-ar69667.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajt Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 If you do get any DTCs showing up, this is a good list of Ford codes http://www.scribd.com/doc/52871739/DTC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irl-06lx Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 still pretty confused about where the switch goes. Followed the guide perfectly and all is working. Can someone post up something like "place switch on wire coming from pin 6 to the plug on the board" I have the two loose wires taped up and labeled as the guide says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frs300 Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I want to change my speedometer cluster. Normally this only can be done with programming on the IDS. Is it possible now with ELMconfig to get this working? How about the immobilizer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Sayer Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I have started to mod the cable. I have got a 3 position switch and have 6 wires. The wire are 3 , 6 , 11 , 14 , Hcan and Lcan. Could anyone tell me how the 6 wires, wire up to the switch. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frs300 Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 You need 2 port switch. So with six positions to solder the wires. Something like this. http://www.soselectronic.com/?str=371&artnum=46624 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Sayer Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 i think i gave it sorted. the switch has 6 points on it. Would have thought canL and canH would be on the 2 different sides of the switch. Not sure though. 1 2 3 11 canL 14 ---------> 4 5 6 3 canH 6 Can anyone check to see if this is right before i wire the switch up? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Sayer Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 i have on of these switches. just need to know what wires to wire up http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160697063015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1480wt_986 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frs300 Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I try to explain. There are 2 rows with 3 pins. 1 row with 3 pins use for all + wires. (doesn't matter which row) the other row (also 3 pins) use for all - wires. In the middle from the + row you solder the plus from the ELM board, which was soldered on pin 6 In the middle from the - row you solder the minus from the ELM board which was soldered on pin 14 On the + row you do on the first pin a wire to connector pin 6 (this is + for the HS) On the + row you do on the thirth pin a wire to connector pin 3 (this is + for the MS) On the - row , first pin (near the pin which is soldered on 6) you do a wire to connector pin 14 (this is the - from HS) On the - row , thirth pin (near the pin which is soldered on 3) you do a wire to connector pin 11 (this is the - from MS) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teabags Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 If I just want to activate the auto lock and tyre deflation system do I need to modify the elm cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Sayer Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 thanks alot for that information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Sayer Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 i think you need to modify it for the auto lock and also the heated windscreen auto feature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teabags Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Do you install the elm cable software or do you use the putty software with the cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz93 Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I will post some pics of my modded elm cable if that would help As far as I know, you don't need to mod the cable to use with putty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teabags Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 I will post some pics of my modded elm cable if that would help As far as I know, you don't need to mod the cable to use with putty. Extra pictures would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preee Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 You need Putty to send the commands if your using ELM-FF2 only If you use ELMconfig then connect the cable start ELMconfig and then select "Setup ELM328 for M-Can Bus" this is a clever button civil-zz wrote into the program that saves you having to use PuTTy. without the commands then the ELM chip will not have the extra commands written into it to open up the channels needed for the M-Can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frs300 Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Preee, do you know if it's possible to programm the immobilizer into the speedometer cluster when there is a new one installed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preee Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Preee, do you know if it's possible to programm the immobilizer into the speedometer cluster when there is a new one installed? No that is not possible , if you imagine the program a a series of "gate's" , leading to different fields , they are either open or closed, the program writes the AS-Built data file to say either open or closed in most case's . To program an immobilizer you would need to be able to trigger a learning section which this program does not currently do. Ford VCM would be needed. The other option perhaps might be to join http://ffclub.ru and join in on the thread and ask civil-zz directly if that is possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teabags Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thanks Paul that diagram is excellent, bit of a dumb question what do you do with the desolder wires 14 and 6 on the other end that not connected to the switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preee Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Thanks Paul that diagram is excellent, bit of a dumb question what do you do with the desolder wires 14 and 6 on the other end that not connected to the switch? :) there is no other end , once you de-solder those 2 wires they are used to wire onto the switch see center of the switch , as they are the feed which then splits in 2 and chosen via the direction you have the switch. So dark blue wire in diagram would have originally been soldered to pin 14 Light blue wire would have be soldered to pin 6. All wires in the connector are white , so as you desolder them wrap some tape around them and number them or do one at a time. Once the wire had been de-soldered what is left is the PIN waiting for the new wire to be soldered too. When you take ELM327 apart, pins 3 and 11 do not have wires on them so its only 6 and 14 that need to be de-soldered The other End of those 2 wires are in the plug section that plugs into the circuit board of the ELM327 , see Page 1 of my photo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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