Guide For Focus Mk2/mk2.5 C-Max/kuga ~Elm 327 Cable And Ff2 Program

[somethingbad]

Hi guys,

I've bought modified ELM327 from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161827337165 and it is acting strange with elmconfig. If I start latest version of elmconfig (0.2.10) with auto speed it connects at1000000 and fails with timeout after every second request that I made. I've run the speed test with older version and it looks like the adapter can support up to 500k (as advertised):

I've tried to set the speed to 115200 or 500000 but it is not working. Can you tell me how can I set ELMconfig to work on 115200 or 500000?

[jeebowhite]

Try an older version incase it's just a bug in the latest release?

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[Milosh]

Hi guys,

I've bought modified ELM327 from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161827337165 and it is acting strange with elmconfig. If I start latest version of elmconfig (0.2.10) with auto speed it connects at1000000 and fails with timeout after every second request that I made. I've run the speed test with older version and it looks like the adapter can support up to 500k (as advertised):

I've tried to set the speed to 115200 or 500000 but it is not working. Can you tell me how can I set ELMconfig to work on 115200 or 500000?

I believe you're dealing with a faulty ELM327 adapter. I've had the same behaviour, take a look at this post of mine and also read the reply below written by civil-zz (that's Sergey, the author of ElmConfig):

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/31287-guide-for-focus-mk2mk25-c-maxkuga-elm-327-cable-and-ff2-program/page-159#entry471816

After that I bought the right adapter from: ohl_ltd and it works as it should.

You'll probably notice that the first faulty adapter was also bought from the same seller, but he had been sent faulty adapters from the factory and he refunded me and sent me the right one.

[Guest]

Hi guys,

I've bought modified ELM327 from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161827337165 and it is acting strange with elmconfig. If I start latest version of elmconfig (0.2.10) with auto speed it connects at1000000 and fails with timeout after every second request that I made. I've run the speed test with older version and it looks like the adapter can support up to 500k (as advertised):

I've tried to set the speed to 115200 or 500000 but it is not working. Can you tell me how can I set ELMconfig to work on 115200 or 500000?

Had the same, was a slow one... Did work with 38400 fixed.

[Guest]

Does someone knows the difference between the three versions (512) for the HEC?

Anyone knows whats the Focus RS tick for HEC L2/3 in the HEC?

[dj.martzian]

2.17 Version is now available. Visit civil-zz's FTP server for download. :)

[Campers]

Hello everybody.

I just bought a focus on 01/01 wich has loads of problems.

the biggest is that dashboard it's not working properly . (needles and not just only )

i tought that i could just change it , with one from eBay , but i see here that it's not just plug and play .

i reached page 70 , reading this from like 2 days , and until now it looks like i can't just change it and reprogram it or something with elm 327 .

i have just one key

is there any cheap solution for me ? cause MOT gonna expire soon :(

edit - or someone who could do it in a day , in hampshire ? so i dont have to send by post the cluster .

Edited January 10, 2016 by Campers

[Stoney871]

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repairlist

[Campers]

thank you , but my cluster looks like it was already opened by someone else and i think its really hard to repair it . Thats why i am looking to change it . But i i'm still searching for all (cheap) solutions of repairing key with dashboard .

[Stoney871]

If you totally replace the cluster then you will need someone with access to IDS to code it to the car.

It forms part of the immobiliser circuit along with the ECU and transponder system in the ignition.

Some people buy the whole set from a junker for ease (ECU, cluster and lock/ignition barrels).

[OldLen]

I suppose the first step is to say hello! (my first post). I've been following this topic for some time and thought I'd finally 'sign-up' to try to chip in something. I don't pretend to offer a great deal of 'cleverness', but just having got my Cruise working, I hope I can add a tiny bit to the pool of experience here.

Firstly, like others, I would offer my thanks and admiration to 'Sergey'. Had I been fortunate enough to have been born half as clever as him, I would still have considered myself a genius!

The reason I am posting is that this thread, though old, still seems to be quite active with people (like me) still interested in getting their CC activated and having seen only one previous mention of a Focus Automatic (read 'PowerShift', if you will) little has been added on the subject of Focus Automatics. Well it is possible. I have just got my cruise working on my '09 Focus 2.5 2.0TDCI Auto. (build DW, PCM SID206, Firmware 8M51AJG).

It finally became possible upon picking up a 4 spoke Ghia MK2 leather wheel, with Cruise buttons, at a reasonable price on our favorite auction site.

Like previous posters, I too fell into the 'dodgy' ELM327 diagnostic interface 'trap'. It's worth noting that it is still a minefield. There are many vendors offering 'converted' ELM interfaces and I bought one of these. There was no way I could get it to work with ELMConfig, even though most are advertised as being suitable for ELMConfig (one even having 'designed for ELMConfig' actually written on it). I hit the previously posted 'AT L0' errors on every instruction past the first (explained by Sergey as this firmware 'hard'/'soft' reset misunderstanding). I discovered that many of the vendors, in spite of having company titles encompassing the word 'diagnostics', actually know little about these devices. When I hit my problems with the first one I bought, I asked a question of the vendor who hadn't actually ever USED one, and knew nothing about it. In spite of the 'diagnostics' moniker in the company title, many are purely marketing companies who obviously think that if the CAN switch is in place, it will be suitable for ELMConfig, without realising there are many versions of this device. I contacted another couple of vendors also, asking if their device was definitely compatible with ELMConfig, (i.e. had it actually been tested with ELMConfig) and none could tell me.

I returned the unsuitable one and ordered one from the same place as a previous poster (thank you Milos!) which worked flawlessly. The difference being that these chaps do know about this device and have pages on set-up, use, etc. (usual disclaimer, I am only a satisfied customer). Getting a suitable ELM Diag interface was probably the biggest challenge.

So that's my first post! I now have working Cruise control, indicator on the dash when activated, the lot! and would like to offer my thanks to all who have shared their wisdom here, from which I have benefited enormously.

I did take copious notes while I did this (using ELMConfig 2.17b) and if I can offer anything I'd be pleased to do so. I did think of offering a detailed 'write-up' on what I did - and did wrong - but I don't know if would interest anyone on such an old thread. It would, by nature, be pretty 'wordy' and I wouldn't want to bore everybody!

Thanks again to all.

[Tiggie]

Oldlen just to let you know I have a working cable in Bristol if anyone wants to use it.

I have a 1.6 auto (mk2.5) I've put a cmax steering wheel with cruse control on and all wired up beeping so I know the buttons work.

Never got cc working I think I'm unlucky with my pcm is the wrong fuse box never had it working I have even went to ford had my fuse box updated and tryed then no

[Stoney871]

I suppose the first step is to say hello! (my first post). I've been following this topic for some time and thought I'd finally 'sign-up' to try to chip in something. I don't pretend to offer a great deal of 'cleverness', but just having got my Cruise working, I hope I can add a tiny bit to the pool of experience here.

Firstly, like others, I would offer my thanks and admiration to 'Sergey'. Had I been fortunate enough to have been born half as clever as him, I would still have considered myself a genius!

The reason I am posting is that this thread, though old, still seems to be quite active with people (like me) still interested in getting their CC activated and having seen only one previous mention of a Focus Automatic (read 'PowerShift', if you will) little has been added on the subject of Focus Automatics. Well it is possible. I have just got my cruise working on my '09 Focus 2.5 2.0TDCI Auto. (build DW, PCM SID206, Firmware 8M51AJG).

It finally became possible upon picking up a 4 spoke Ghia MK2 leather wheel, with Cruise buttons, at a reasonable price on our favorite auction site.

Like previous posters, I too fell into the 'dodgy' ELM327 diagnostic interface 'trap'. It's worth noting that it is still a minefield. There are many vendors offering 'converted' ELM interfaces and I bought one of these. There was no way I could get it to work with ELMConfig, even though most are advertised as being suitable for ELMConfig (one even having 'designed for ELMConfig' actually written on it). I hit the previously posted 'AT L0' errors on every instruction past the first (explained by Sergey as this firmware 'hard'/'soft' reset misunderstanding). I discovered that many of the vendors, in spite of having company titles encompassing the word 'diagnostics', actually know little about these devices. When I hit my problems with the first one I bought, I asked a question of the vendor who hadn't actually ever USED one, and knew nothing about it. In spite of the 'diagnostics' moniker in the company title, many are purely marketing companies who obviously think that if the CAN switch is in place, it will be suitable for ELMConfig, without realising there are many versions of this device. I contacted another couple of vendors also, asking if their device was definitely compatible with ELMConfig, (i.e. had it actually been tested with ELMConfig) and none could tell me.

I returned the unsuitable one and ordered one from the same place as a previous poster (thank you Milos!) which worked flawlessly. The difference being that these chaps do know about this device and have pages on set-up, use, etc. (usual disclaimer, I am only a satisfied customer). Getting a suitable ELM Diag interface was probably the biggest challenge.

So that's my first post! I now have working Cruise control, indicator on the dash when activated, the lot! and would like to offer my thanks to all who have shared their wisdom here, from which I have benefited enormously.

I did take copious notes while I did this (using ELMConfig 2.17b) and if I can offer anything I'd be pleased to do so. I did think of offering a detailed 'write-up' on what I did - and did wrong - but I don't know if would interest anyone on such an old thread. It would, by nature, be pretty 'wordy' and I wouldn't want to bore everybody!

Thanks again to all.

A write up guide is definitely worthwhile.

We look forward to reading it.

[jeebowhite]

Oldlen a great first post, I look forward to your write up. Tiggie, I think your issue us using a cmax on a focus, the two are incompatible

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[OldLen]

Gents, Thank you for your welcoming replies. I will then post an account of my experiences. As I said, it will probably be a long-ish post, but I'm not forcing anybody to read it if they have better things to do!

Tiggie, yours is undoubtedly the solitary 'Focus auto' post I was referring to. I must admit I'm surprised that CC was not programmed into the system of any Auto. To my mind, CC was made for Automatics. It just fits perfectly with the 'relaxed' driving ethos of an Auto, why, of course, many of us own one. In fact, I can't really understand why any manufacturer would offer an 'easy-drive' Auto option without CC being thrown-in as standard with the Auto package.....but that's just me.

I didn't mention, but mine is a 'Titanium' spec. I therefore assumed that if ever there was a Focus Auto with the requisite 'infrastructure' in place to activate CC, it would likely be a 'higher spec 2.0ltr' i.e. if it wasn't built into that, it probably wouldn't be built into any of them. All I added was the replacement steering wheel. I did nothing else other than the activation process. Everything else was there.

Why bother? In my case, I do undertake long trips to visit my folks (300 miles at a stretch) and I've noticed, over the past year, or so, while doing these trips, the increased proliferation of radar speed-trap vans. I even spotted one coming back through Somerset, parked in a wooded lay-by with nothing around for miles but grass and sheep, at about 5:30pm on a Sunday afternoon. Point is that I'm getting paranoid about getting done and seem to spend as much time looking at the speedo as the road. I'm looking forward to the next trip where the CC will take care of the speed for me and I can concentrate on looking where I'm going.

[mrmetallica]

Oldlen just to let you know I have a working cable in Bristol if anyone wants to use it.

I have a 1.6 auto (mk2.5) I've put a cmax steering wheel with cruse control on and all wired up beeping so I know the buttons work.

Never got cc working I think I'm unlucky with my pcm is the wrong fuse box never had it working I have even went to ford had my fuse box updated and tryed then no

i have a titanium with built in cruise.well mine plays up.it stoped working so i ordered anothe switch for the clutch pedal i think it was and it worked again but not for long.so id check the peddle switches are working ok

[OldLen]

OK Chaps, This is the write-up I promised. As I said up-front, it’s a looonng post, but I’m not forcing it on anybody. It isn’t much of a gripping read in itself, I’d be the first to admit, but if anybody is seriously contemplating this, it might offer a little insight as to whether they want to, and if so, it can be used with ELMConfig running Offline to familiarise before going ‘live’.

WHAT IT IS

This is merely an account reflecting my experience of activating the CC on my '09 Focus 2.0TDCI Automatic using ELMConfig 2.17b compiled from notes I made and memory.

WHAT IT IS NOT

Any sort of 'definitive' guide on said process. I offer it (for what it's worth) because it occurs to me that the only 'expertise' likely to be built is a 'cumulative' expertise because most of us will only ever need to do this once, on our own vehicle. I doubt, therefore, any one of us will ever need to do this often enough to become an 'expert'. (unless, of course, one is in the trade, in which case they would probably have more sophisticated tools at their disposal than ELMConfig).

Note also that, as I say, this is but one 'combination' of vehicle, ELMConfig version and PC (Win 7 64). Given the different versions of ELMConfig out there, the vast array of Focus models across age/trim level/petrol or diesel/engine size/transmission type etc. I don't see there ever being just one 'right way' to do this.

ASSUMPTIONS

The following assumes a compatible ELM327 interface (see previous post!), correctly configured (check device manager and ensure no yellow triangle alerts on devices, ports, USBs etc. As said, I'm talking Win 7. I have never used Win 8 or 10), and, of course, ELMConfig 2.17b installed.

During the processes, you will receive various prompts from ELMConfig (Ign-on.....Ign-off....Change CAN switch etc). I have not noted these because they are self explanatory and you just have to do what ELMConfig tells you to do as and when they occur. Similarly, you will get various 'siren' type warnings (usually as it's about to write) during parts of the process. These are a bit alarming when you first hear them, but I discovered that it's obviously quite normal and a stiff drink and the necessity to don the brown corduroy trousers aren't required.

I also had a mains extension lead run out to the car with the PC plugged into it's mains adapter. If you have a newer PC than mine, you may have enough confidence in your PC battery to rely on that. I didn't want to risk my PC battery expiring half-way through a 'write'.

THE PLAN.

I gather from others on the thread who have also done this that the modules can be re-programmed in any order. I decided to adopt what seemed the most logical approach (to me, anyway). I sort of started at the steering wheel and 'worked through' I therefore did the HEC first, then the GEM and lastly, the PCM. I thought by doing this, it would build experience of the process (and confidence) on the first two before I hit the 'biggie' (the PCM).

TO START

With this plan in mind, I pre-set the ELM327 CAN switch to HS-CAN (to match HEC). The car IGN is still off.

Plug the ELM327 into the car OBD port and the PC USB. THEN start ELMConfig. (I discovered that if I started ELMConfig before I’d plugged in the USB to the PC, ELMConfig didn’t ‘pick-up’ the adapter).

Turn IGN on. You should now be sitting on the very first small screen with the COMMS options available. My ELM327 was fitted with the FTDI chip, so I chose that. Is seems, that by using the FTDI chip, the ‘adapter set-up’ options (presumably for COMMS port etc.) are not necessary.

Just click ‘open port’ and the program will scan through the adapter speeds (numbers whizzing by at the bottom of the window) and choose the right speed for you.

You should now be sitting on the first bigger main screen (after waiting the requisite number of seconds and closing the ‘About ELMConfig’ screen) with all the available MS-CAN modules listed down the extreme left, with the column of HS-CAN modules immediately next to them.

HEC

(Remembering the plan) Choose HEC from HS-CAN list. On the first screen I clicked ‘read VIN’ and was encouraged when it filled in correctly! Next, same screen, click the bigger ‘read’ bar at the bottom. The info should all fill in. (I don’t know if all these steps are strictly necessary, but I figured that if I was going to write it back to the HEC, I wanted as much ‘real’ data in the fields as possible, rather than inadvertently write back some sort of ‘default’ value instead. – true of all modules, incidentally).

Next click the ‘configuration’ tab. This takes you to the screen with the 3 pages of configuration data we are interested in. You will be on Page 1. Click ‘read from HEC’ and all the check boxes will be filled in (at least, the ones with the options already activated – the others stay blank). At this point (if you want – and for safety) you can click ‘save to file’ and it saves the file as ‘HECConfigPage1’. In my case it saved this file in my documents folder with a Windows ‘office’ type logo against it. Perhaps, because it is some sort of binary or hex file, the PC sees it as a raw printer file or something. Anyway, it works.

Repeat the above after clicking on ‘page 2’ and the same again for ‘Page 3’ The files (if saved) follow as HECConfigPage2 & HECConfig Page3.

You now have all 3 pages of config data downloaded and three files saved – just in case. On page 1 you can now see the ‘Cruise control configuration’ check-box. (currently blank). Click this box to insert the necessary ‘tick’.

Finally click ‘Write to HEC’ and amid some of the warbling I mentioned (and following any prompts issued), it should after a couple of minutes, or so, come back with a message to say you’ve been successful. FIRST BIT DONE!

GEM

This next explanation can be much shorter because it follows much the same pattern as the HEC. Firstly, switch the ELM327 to the other (MS-CAN) position. I just did this ‘on the fly’ with no re-plugging or re-starting of anything being necessary and it seemed to work OK. (at one point I did have a ‘Change the CAN switch position’ message box come up, so the program probably prompts you to do this if you haven’t already).

As before, on the first (Information) screen click ‘Read’ bar at the bottom (if I remember, the VIN number at the top was still filled in from the HEC process, if not, ‘Read’ that too). Again, after the bottom ‘Read’ bar, all the Information should download and fill-in. Next, is the ‘Configuration’ tab. This will be familiar by now as it’s similar to the HEC. As before, ‘Read’ and ‘Save to file’ Page1, Page2 and Page3 giving you 3 files in your documents folder (GEMConfigPage1, GEMConfigPage2 & GEMConfigPage3). Similarly, you can now go to Page 3 (this time) and click the ‘Cruise Control configuration’ to put the ‘tick’ in the box.

Finally, Still on the ‘Configuration’ page, click ‘Write to GEM’ tab and amid a warble and a few minutes you should get another indication message of your success. SECOND BIT DONE!

Finally, the PCM

This is a little different in process, but essentially the same idea. i.e. download what’s there, modify it by ticking a ‘flag’, and then write it back again. I did have one hiccup here, but I will note the correct procedure first (so as not to lodge the wrong way into anybody’s head) and pick up on what to NOT to do* at the end.

First, ELM327 switch back to HS-CAN position, and click ‘PCM’ tab in the modules list.

Information page. As before, I think it still remembers VIN from before, if not ‘Read VIN’. Then click the big ‘Read’ bar under the panel and the information should all fill in as before. This is where you can see your PCM type, firmware level etc.

Next. Go to ‘configuration page’. You will notice here that having ‘read’ the information on the previous page, the program has automatically entered the correct ‘PCM Type’ for you in the box at the top (The range of similar PCMs of which yours will be one). I’m assuming here there must obviously be a correlation between the PCM Type shown on the ‘Information’ page, and the PCM types supported by ELMConfig. In my case, ‘Information’ noted my PCM module as ‘SID206’ and sure enough, this shows as one of the supported types in the ‘Configuration’ page box. I assume this is where you would see some sort of error message if your PCM module type, as read, was not yet supported by ELMConfig. As before, you can now ‘save to file’ (to be safe), and you get a ‘PCMConfig’ file added to the others (just one this time). I’m thinking this must be what is referred to previously as the ‘VID Block’ file.

Then, move on to the ‘Procedures’ page where you will see another ‘Page1’ and ‘Page2’. On Page1, there didn’t seem to be much to interest us, just a ‘Classification of injectors’ box. (I’m doing this on diesel remember, so I don’t know if this would be different on a petrol engine) I decided to ‘Read’ this anyway, following my previous point about having as much ‘real’ data as possible. I’m pleased I did because I noticed the box changed from the default ‘class 5’ to ‘class 6’. Had I not done this, I don’t know if it would written a ‘wrong’ default value back or not. (it might have ignored it, or Errored, or something, don’t know).

On to ‘Page2’. The IMPORTANT thing to do here is make sure you click the ‘read calibration data only’ box*. Now click ‘Read firmware from PCM to BIN file’ box. It saves this as file ‘YOUR ACTUAL VIN NO.bin (i.e. XXXXXXXX.bin, where the XXXXXXXX is the actual VIN No. of the vehicle as read). Reminder: through all this, right to the end, follow any ‘IGN OFF/ON’ prompts if instructed. The download of firmware in my case took about 9 minutes and consisted of 2048 blocks.

You now have a 2 files. This one and the previous ‘PCMConfig’ file. Now go back to the ‘configuration’ tab and, for the last time, ‘tick’ the ‘Integrated speed control’ box towards the top-right of the screen. Finally, go back to the procedures screen and choose ‘Load firmware from PHF/HEX/BIN file’. It will now give you the option to choose a file to load. Choose the XXXXXVINXXX file previously saved (not least because it’s the only one you have).

So, to re-cap. You now have the previously saved and loaded XXXXXX.bin file alongside the PCMConfig, Configuration file, modified with the ‘integrated speed control’ option ‘ticked’. These two are what we now want to load back to the PCM.

FINALLY! (still on the ‘Procedures’ page). Hit the ‘Write current firmware to PCM’ tab. (more prompts and warbles) The last input is where is brings up a screen warning that there ‘Is an empty or different VID block’ somewhere and do you want to use current (or something like that). I assume this is saying ‘the one you want to write back is different from the original, do you want to use this one?’. I answered ‘Yes’ and off it went! Wrote back again eventually returning an OK message.

We’re there! Pack the gear away and go for a test run. The Cruise should work!

* The only real problem I had was first time through I didn’t click the ‘read calibration data only’ box when downloading the PCM to .bin file. What it therefore did was to download one ‘set’ of data (the one we actually wanted of 2048 blocks) and then, with no input from me, proceeded to download a SECOND ‘set’ of data. This one being 8192 blocks (ie a total of 10,240 blocks) I had a ‘feeling in my water’ this couldn’t be right because it took about 50 minutes to download! Anyway, I duly ‘Saved firmware to bin file’ and the only option it gave me was to save it as PCMConfig, which I did. I did the ‘integrated cruise control’ tick, as described, but when I went to write it back, it bombed out with ‘incompatible file’ (or similar) and wouldn’t let me. At this point I thought I’d fallen at the last fence.

I got thinking and realised I was saving 2 separate files under one ‘PCMConfig’ filename, so one must be overwriting the other. On going through again, I noticed said ‘Callibration only’ box, and with no other ideas, clicked it and had another go. This is when it worked properly and only downloaded the first data ‘set’ of 2048 blocks and then stopped at about 9 minutes which seemed more like it. The ‘save file’ THEN suggested I saved it as XXXXXVINXX.bin, rather than the previous option of overwriting the original PCMConfig file. I guess what threw me was the difference in translation. I tend to think of Calibration more in terms of quantitive things (metering, temperature, flow rates etc.) Had it said Configuration Data I might have twigged earlier. Not in any way a criticism, I’m sure Calibration was a perfectly valid translation of what was there originally, but funny how tiny nuances can catch one out. Anyway, that was the only real hiccup. Once that was sussed, it all went quite well really.

Apologies if anybody spots any ‘wrinkles’, but please remember I too, was doing this for the first time as I’m also remembering it.

[marian_s_petre]

Hello Paul,

I have an Ford focus 2 Ghia 2.0 Tdci from 2006. I order on eBay one Elm327 already modified with switch for Ford but i have a problem.

After install driver and use with forscan it work....I ihave a try with Elmconfig old one and gave me error ...now i got last one with dll installed 0.2.16c.

In Elmconfic i sellect English ->(V)CP-> Port 3-> Baundrate auto(auto select tick box)-> Connection Focus2-> open port.

After that hi ask if my elm327 have swithch hit Yes.

I can read Vin and in HEC-> configuration-> page 1,2,3 but not all in one sesion. Example : if i try to read here page 1,2,3 one after one not work. I have to close elmconfig and open again. I change my speedo from mk2 to facelift and I need to upgrade room...not work. Ask for more speed.

When I made adapter setup in elmconfig (start speed test) respond with all speed ok. I set maximum speed and set adapter to maximum but nothing change...

Now i see your post with Putty and i have a try....on 1st command

atpp2asv38-> K

atpp2aon-> t
atpp2csv81->t
atpp2con->t

atpp2dsv04->t
atpp2don->t

What can I do in this situation???

It is possible this adapter have problems? I opened and inside have FTDI chip.

Thank you so much mate for all you do for this community...Ford

Regards,

Marian

[ChrisM41]

I also  have to restart elmconfig each time I do any operation. I think it might be a Windows 10 problem. Its annoying, but you can still do everything.

 

I managed to update my PCM last week, it took 4 minute, worked perfectly.

[mrmetallica]

Does any one know how to add transmitters  to the gem information ?

im trying to get another fuse box to work on my car ,ive copied all info from my fuse box to new one .just cant unlock the car with the key .

[Stoney871]

Use Forscan.

You need to register on their forum and apply for an extended licence which gives access to PATS programming.

Sent from my SM-G930F

[mrmetallica]

30 minutes ago, Stoney871 said:

Use Forscan.

You need to register on their forum and apply for an extended licence which gives access to PATS programming.

Sent from my SM-G930F

ok cheers mate .will give it a go

[Twiggy5255]

Hi all, 

New to this just got my cable downloaded software and made a few changes  

The big question I've got and if anyone could help would be amazing!? 

Currently having a problem with 09 mk2 1.6 tdci DPF.  Brought up two codes of P2458 and P242F these are hard to clear due to bring over 140% soot will just keep popping up if cleared and going in to limp mode!

Rather than replace is there any way I can over ride/ map out dpf?

Any advice or how to on this would be magic and save ££ in long run.

Many thanks

[jeebowhite]

You can remove the dpf though it is now illegal, if at the mot it's detected you will be failed and require a new one installed along with your custom map removal. They may not be found often but you need to be aware.

One more legal option is terraclean, even if it doesn't entirely resolve the dpf (though I'm sure it will have an excellent affect) the engine will be spit polished within and your economy and performance will improve

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[Twiggy5255]

6 hours ago, jeebowhite said:

You can remove the dpf though it is now illegal, if at the mot it's detected you will be failed and require a new one installed along with your custom map removal. They may not be found often but you need to be aware.

One more legal option is terraclean, even if it doesn't entirely resolve the dpf (though I'm sure it will have an excellent affect) the engine will be spit polished within and your economy and performance will improve

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

I don't mean physically removing the pipe, just mapping it out? Can I map it out using config? If so, any ideas how?

How does a terra clean remove foot from DPF?  I thought terra clean was for carbon build up in engine not exhaust DPF ?

Twiggy