Ivor Got None

V Plate 1300 Endura Missfire - I`m Stumped

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sorry, it apears i put this in the wrong place, so.... So, am I now a bit "stupid" ? well, one of my daughters has a nice but old KA 1300 endura on a V plate, and for the life of me, I dont know whats wrong with it. It loses power on middle two plugs after begining to rev it. starts perfectly from cold and Idles normaly. I ran a fault code check and it comes up "primery coil malfunction" so i replaced the coil pack, leads & plugs - still no good. looked in internet for help, got it needs ECU, so bought 1 of ebaycomplete with chip key & lock ring & was the same FIFA code, still no good, bought another of ebay, still no good. Am I stupid?

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Have you checked the wiring loom & connectors that go to the coil pack? As it sounds like a wiring fault.

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HI DarrenT,

yes I have checked every connection to most things,


throttle potentiameter,

massairflow meter, slow/idle running bypass unit,

lambda sensor,

even the flywheel pickup sensor.

after 3 seperate ecu`s.lockrings & chip keys,

the connections are ok.

the bit i dont get is it fires on all 4 from starting,

even under a foot of snow we had the other month,

it Idles smooth hot or cold,

with the new but new reproduction coilpack (wonder if its at fault?)

new leads & plugs, you can bring the revs up till it runs rough,

then are able to hold plug leads 2 & 3 without getting a shock,

but as soon as the revs drop back down, the leads jump out your hands....

or you let go quickly.

Am i thinking that by a fluke, the new coilpack has failed the same as the old one did?

If I had a spare I could try it, but do not....

and another £20 on another coilpack might not solve the problem?

Thoughts DarrenT or anyone?

Just had another thought,

wonder if I can check the feed value going to the 3 wires feeding the coilpack,

standing at Idle, then running?

should be 12volts theretical on 2 plus earth eh?

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You can get insulated pliers to hold the ht leads with the engine running, I am a fully qualified mechanic but without seeing the car it's difficult to make an accurate diagnosis. But if it was me i would purchase a genuine ford coil pack as pattern / reproduction stuff can a bit iffy on quality.

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You may well be right on this darrenT,

as i just been out with a multimeter and took readings from the 3 wires feeding the coilpack.

at ignition on non running all 3 wires showed theretical 12 volts (12.something)

was the same as engine running, same amount of volts,then with revs enough to get loss of middle two plugs live feed was still there @ 12 volt something.

the way i see it, if coilpack was getting regular feed at various revs, it should still fire the plugs?

your thoughts DarrenT matey?

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In theory yes it should. I still think a genuine ford coil pack is the best way forward mate. let me know how you get on.

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Will do DarrenT.

thanks for the help so far mate,

I thought i was begining to lose it,

what with my age an all that..... :wacko: ...

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Yes, I agree with the Ford Coil Pack being the way forward. It was the only way to get our SportKA running right after trying 4 different ones. Ours had a misfire on tick over though, but was OK when revving.

I have got a spare after market one you are welcome to try if you want it. Should fit yours as I originally bought it to put on a 2000 KA2.

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thanks for the offer btmaldon,

it may come to that.

I`ll see if my daughter has the money for a ford coilpack,

or if I have.....dads eh....lol

I`ll keep you updated over the next week or so,

I wont forget you all.....too helpfull to forget you all..

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promised guys,

I`ll be back...

am I a very happy chappy or what!

ended up buying a "genuine" lucas new in a box coilpack,

changed it over,

and the KA runs like a dream again...

all this time to find the problem...

the ebay 5 star super dooper seller sold me sh!te months ago,

so i`ll be "havin a word" with `em.

I ended up with 3 different ecu packs along the way,

cleaned & checked eveything else, but not the bargain replacement coil!

So, as the gov. says after a muck up:-

"we have learned a lesson from this"

thanks go out to all who gave time to respond to my help needs,

and I will be looking in reguarly, just for more self help tips.


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Hi all.

just updating here.

well the daughters KA went for MOT just under 14 days ago,

failed on:-

rear axle location bushes, offside chassis corrosion at axle location, corrosion on offside outer sill panel, front offside lower suspension ball joint grease cover, nearside cv joint grease cover not seated correctly. and offside drivers seat belt mounting point corrosion..

so i started by buying online 2 axle bushes,

then bottle of mig wire & gas!

got the KA up in the air enough for a large elderly man had enough room to work!....lol

that done, I welded a 21 inch patch repair to the outer sill,

the seatbelt point repair from inside, then as i had the 4 bolt U section off the axle location, i patched a panel to cover the corrosion there.

then the fun started when i recieved the 2 axle bushes.

I cut the old ones out via drilling through the bonded rubber then hacksawed the steel outers,

I made a bush insertion tool using 14mm high tensile bolt & long double nut.

I sheared the Hi tensile bolt trying to get the first bush in.

tried to grind a bit of the dia of the bush, but bent my new home made tool.re welded and more the tool & tried again - nothing.

In the end said s0d it, so cut a slit in the outer bush casing, pulled the bush in, then clamped the lot tight, then welded it back up!.. (carefully)

done the other side in a flash, well, weld...lol

KA past with flying colours monday.

Dam them axle bushes though...

2 days on one, half hour on the other...lol

One dear daughter and happy 3 year old grandson happy again,

me V-happy as I got my Landrover diesel back again.

now just got wheel bearing to do, all axle & gear boxes to fill with gear oils,




Thanks Fordy guys & girls,

I always "was" a ford man at heart.

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