Guide To Fixing Common Focus Bonnet Lock Problem.

[Mcdndv749]

On 07/08/2012 at 10:18 PM, Lenny said:

Excellent guide mate,

i may need this myself if i dont take due care and attention when changing my front upper grill.

I tried the screwdriver but no luck?  

[AndyO]

Adding my own experiences to this topic:

On my 2007 Focus ST - the bonnet lock deteriorated very quickly, I was able to open it twice by first pushing down & using just the key, after that it would not open when I turned the key right. A long screw driver did not work for me - spent around 2 hrs trying, then went under the car. I damaged the mechanism when I finally got it off, it's not clear what had gone wrong  but a new cable etc. works fine.

If all else fails, take some time to read all the posts in this thread - I'll not repeat but everything required is there. Get a long, thin, 30cm screwdriver - £5 even at expensive shops.

It took me about an hour under the car, and another 20 mins jacking up & placing axle stands etc - not as bad as I'd feared. You will need a 10mm spanner (preferably with an angle for the ring end), a good torch / light (I used an off-road bike light - this helped), small hands if possile and a bit of patience to reach and undo the two bolts / screws on the back of the bonnet catch. Take your time, you may not be able to see one of them until you've got it partially undone by touch. When you have them both removed, ideally you need to prise the catch towards the back of the car - do what you can from underneath the car, you may be able to poke a long screwdriver throught the grill if like myself you had the first stage of the bonnet unlocked. the fitting has a few ferrules that ensure it is sitting in the correct location - these disengage by moving the catch mechanism back about 5mm. Then just give the bonnet some force up, careful not to lift too high due to the alarm sensor cable. When the bonnet lifts, you should be able to then access the latch and operate it manually (with a flat head screwdriver) to seperate from the bonnet & sort out the cable etc.

Fitting the new kit:

I was able to retreive the old lock by a combination of knocking out & drilling out the metal 'rolls' that hold the lock mechanism together. 2mm bit, possibly a 2.5mm bit, I had to prise apart using some flat screw drivers after one of the rolls / rods was partially left in, this was possible as it had been weakened by the drilling.

Re-assembly of everything was straightforward, as earlier people have suggested it's worth removing the screws for the front grill before you close the bonnet for the first time - it may give you options should something go wrong.

[dave.j]

5 years on and this problem still arises , except now we could be talking about a 400 quid banger.

Brigante - you were lucky. And the photos don't show anymore ??

Easiest and Quickest method if bonnet opens partly with left turn of key -

Remove lower watershield -8 torx screws all easy. Reach up and pull lock IN , may have to bend 2 clips back.

Using sharp wood chisel from front of partly just open bonnet cut heads off the 6 visible PLASTIC screws holding the grill in place  - use a hammer.

Remove grill by pushing back at bottom to unhook and then whole lot forewards.

Using wood chisel through the grill space smash all white plastic away from bonnet catch. , remove white cross section bit - pliers .

You can now use a screwdriver to open bonnet.

When grill is replaced , use extra self tappers if you like ,you will need a longer screwdriver or bar but you will know what is what by now.

 

 

Edited February 12, 2018 by dave.j
spelling

[Stoney871]

Brigante hasn't been on for about 3 years.

A lot of photos went AWOL when Photobucket decided to charge stupid amounts for 3rd party image hosting.

Unless members are currently active and have the original photos (and are willing & able to spend a lot of time to revisit all their past posts to reapply the images) then it is highly unlikely that the pictures will ever be restored.

[Richard1959]

I had this problem, found a part on eBay which is item number 264077543273 and haven't had a problem since, its just slightly longer which means it doesn't slip.

[thor1]

I have a 2006 ford focus titanium 2000cc with bonnet not opening, is it possible to get at locking mechanism from underneath the car

[Ennvoqation]

Yes, but I ended up boring out the lock and then pulled out the whole assembly out and then applied day glow paint to the slot that operates the catch. I then got some to make me a T-Bar that could rotate the catch so I could open the bonnet. The paint was to show where the hole was with a torch as it's a pain to insert otherwise. It's been amusing to see a mechanics face when I give him the bar.

Probably one of the worst lock designs I've ever seen on a car. 

 

[thor1]

my bonnet lock is still acting up,i have had the lock off it seems to be working OK, I tried locking it using screwdriver as the bonnet latch that worked alright, put bonnet down but will not open, anybody got any suggestions

[Jamie1980]

On 8/7/2012 at 10:18 PM, Lenny said:

Cheers pal worked a treet

 

[SquizTed]

Big thanks to Uncle3vil on page 8 ref Focus Mark2 Bonnet latch repair. Excellent video and lovely to here the kids playing! My lock was ok so I only needed the white plastic twin forked link which connects the Bowden cable end with the latch body. If I can get one the I'll pass on the full kit to the next member. Ted

[robby12345]

 Hi,

My 2006 Ford Focus hatchback 1600 petrol

Can you please answer two questions for me.?

1/  With Grill still in Place, and Bonnet Closed, unable to Open.how do I Guide my Long Screw Driver to Press the Collet, whilst Turning Key Left them Right .?

2/  Is it  Wise to Remove Grill by Snapping  the 4 plastic Grill Screws with a Chisel  Making it Easier to Access the **Broken Bonnet Lock** on my 2006 Ford Focus

Edited July 5, 2019 by robby12345

[stocksandshareesup]

On 8/9/2012 at 1:13 AM, .Ryan said:

Good work buddy!

you wonderful man!!!A n excellent post easily understood well explained.Thankk God for grass roots guys like you

[MostlyVolvos]

Just joined up to say thanks to the posters in this thread.

I was sorting this issue for a friend & the info here was really helpful.

This one didn't respond to the 'screwdriver through the grille' method, so I had to remove the panel underneath & reach up between the rad & grille (ouch!) to (eventually) force it to open. It turned out the cable had snapped *and* the plastic cross at the top had disengaged.

It's such a poor design, it lets down what is otherwise a pretty good car.

I really think Ford should've fixed it with a recall, since being unable to perform basic maintenance has implications for safety...

Anyway, cheers guys!

 

[Joneeboy]

On ‎8‎/‎7‎/‎2016 at 4:13 PM, jimmcwibb said:

Now it's all back together I could see that the reason I couldn't push the white collar through to the engine bay was the large white triangle on the engine side of the white collar was impinging on the coolant hoses. This is impossible to see when you're under the car but once you know...

Also it's worth mentioning that the alarm cable is underneath the lock mechanism on the right hand side and you has a clip have to depress on the left, as you look at from in front of the bonnet. Disengage by pushing the clip and pulling downwards. Should come quite easily. This information is very useful when you're under a car trying to see by feel.

I've now set mine up to make this easy to do in the future. My grill is now only held in by the 2 plastic rivets at the side which can be removed relatively easily by prying up from the shut line at the corner of the headlights. After removal, the grill can be wiggled free. Then, with the new lock barrel, I only inserted the larger of the pins and left the two smaller ones out. This way the lock barrel can be removed very easily by pushing out the big pin, and from there the bonnet can be opened by manually turning the metal cross that the lock barrel couple with. That is, if your problem is wear in the cable not turning the mechanism enough.

The upgraded white cross part I got on ebay was actually too long, so I cut it down to about 1mm longer than the stock part. But it is more robust and doesn't have the catches on it at all.

For people in the future I would recommend taking the following steps.

Identify the problem. Turn the key to the right with your ear on the bonnet. If you can hear a small click, this is the upper catch moving across and this means your white cross is engaged properly so the screwdriver trick probably won't work. If you don't hear anything, either the white cross has disengaged (screwdriver trick may work) or the mechanism is totally seized.

If you do hear the click, it's likely that wear in the cable is simply not moving the lower catch far enough over to release the bonnet. In this case, I think by far the easiest way to fix this is to remove the lock barrel as I described above and manipulate the cable end by hand. No need for jacking or getting your hands cut up in the engine bay. Hopefully that will work for you.

If you don't hear the click and the screwdriver trick doesn't work then you could either move to jacking and undoing the 10mm bolts on the lock mechanism and trying that as described elsewhere.

Alternatively, if you have the grill off, it might be worth cutting the cable and manipulating the inner cable by hand. The weak spot may be at the lock barrel end, and so by cutting it off you'd be bypassing it.

How did you get the white cross bit out of your new cable in order to fit the 'upgraded' longer white piece. Did you just pull it out? I don't want to damage my new cable.

[Joneeboy]

On ‎4‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 2:19 PM, Devonboy said:

I had to shorten the bar by around 4mm with a Stanley Knife. A proper job!

Hi

Did you fit a new lock/cable? If so, how did you get the white cross bit out of the new cable, in order to fit the new long bit? Can it be just pulled out with pliers without causing damage to the new cable? 

[Geogy]

Hi,

Is it common also to have the 1st part of the key turn working i.e. the bonnet door is released but can't still open the bonnet door, as the second bit doesn't work? 

[NikToo]

Does anyone have a guide for a Mk1 lock? Been told the whole bumper has to come off...

[mattflo]

Had same issue today. Had taken front grill off to check some wiring with the parking sensors, replaced everything and didn't think to check the lock worked. It didn't!! But with this thread took me less than 60 seconds to get access  -thanks very much!!!!

[dunkle]

Hi 

stumbled across this thread after my partner had issue with her focus 

firstly I need to preface that I know NOTHING about cars.  I don’t even have a licence.  Anyway about 12 months ago her lock was failing and would only open once in blue moon 

So I purchase new kit and when we managed to open the bonnet replaced the original mechanism with new one 

she has gone to cat today and it’s failed.  Again.  However on this occasion no about of turning key and putting pressure on bonnet will open it.  
 

so I’ve tried the screwdriver trick.   Now I don’t think my screwdriver is long enough or flat enough to get pressure.   So have ordered one.  But if that doesn’t work is there the most idiot of guides of how I fix this problem ideally with photos anywhere ? 
 

once bonnet open I can replace mechanism fine but I’m in catch 22 at moment of not being able replace mechanism as bonnet will not open to replace it 

 

thanks 

[unofix]

On 7/5/2019 at 3:19 PM, robby12345 said:

 Hi,

My 2006 Ford Focus hatchback 1600 petrol

Can you please answer two questions for me.?

1/  With Grill still in Place, and Bonnet Closed, unable to Open.how do I Guide my Long Screw Driver to Press the Collet, whilst Turning Key Left them Right .?

2/  Is it  Wise to Remove Grill by Snapping  the 4 plastic Grill Screws with a Chisel  Making it Easier to Access the **Broken Bonnet Lock** on my 2006 Ford Focus

 

[MostlyVolvos]

I've just had to do this on my housemates 56 plate focus ghia, again...

Last time, we replaced the lock/cable assembly with an aftermarket one from eBay. It has lasted for a few years, but since it's still the same poor design, the new one has now failed.

I just went online to find another one & there are some 'rod' style ones which say they fit the car... Does anyone have any experience/feedback on the rod type? Do they fit OK? Do they fail too?

Both times on this car, it's the cable itself that failed, so a different fix is tempting...

[MostlyVolvos]

On 1/16/2022 at 1:55 AM, MostlyVolvos said:

I've just had to do this on my housemates 56 plate focus ghia, again...

Last time, we replaced the lock/cable assembly with an aftermarket one from ebay. It has lasted for a few years, but since it's still the same poor design, the new one has now failed.

I just went online to find another one & there are some 'rod' style ones which say they fit the car... Does anyone have any experience/feedback on the rod type? Do they fit OK? Do they fail too?

Both times on this car, it's the cable itself that failed, so a different fix is tempting...

I decided to give the rod type kit a try.

To answer my own question;

Yes, it fits & seems to work OK.

The one issue I found was that where the lock barrel fits into the back of the radiator grille, without the cable assembly holding it forwards, the barrel wanted to slide back towards the radiator, which would have made it difficult for the key to fully engage & operate the lock... Adding a cable tie & insulating tape to squeeze the lugs & secure it from behind seems to have fixed that. It might have only been an issue on this particular car because of how the plastic grille has aged, but it's something to watch out for if you choose this type of kit.

I'm not entirely convinced how strong the 'claws' which hold the ball joints on the ends of the rod are... They would be the obvious point of failure in the design if the plastic becomes brittle with age & we all know how cheap Chinese e-bay stuff can be... Time will tell I guess.

 

[Ashley2022]

Hi, I’ve just brought a Ford Focus second hand, got back home to have a look at the engine, lifted the ford badge to unlock bonnet, and there’s no key hole at all

[Bar72]

Still happening in 2023!  Google search brought me here so I'd like to extend many thanks to OP for posting this guide.  Removed grill to replace front wing and bonnet wouldn't open after closing it.  After pushing in the mechanism with screwdriver got it open then just smashed away all the white plastic around the mech.  Ordered the upgrade for Ford Part No: 4549268 on eBay, which is slightly longer, so I can now remove grill, letting the lock barrel hang free, without it disconnecting from the latch now.

Here's the eBay number at time of posting: 283777867648

[StephenFord]

18 minutes ago, Bar72 said:

Still happening in 2023!  Google search brought me here so I'd like to extend many thanks to OP for posting this guide.  Removed grill to replace front wing and bonnet wouldn't open after closing it.  After pushing in the mechanism with screwdriver got it open then just smashed away all the white plastic around the mech.  Ordered the upgrade for Ford Part No: 4549268 on ebay, which is slightly longer, so I can now remove grill, letting the lock barrel hang free, without it disconnecting from the latch now.

Here's the ebay number at time of posting: 283777867648

I'm on my 4th 'lock', now I bought one of those extenders, but on replacement installation, forgot to put it in LOL Sshhh... worked for 2 years now without it.