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I am thinking of buy a 2008 FORD TRANSIT CONNECT T200 1.8TDCI 75PS are these any good it has only around 68.000 miles. I need a van as I travel all over Europe and just wanted to know if these vans are any good ? I do around 80.000 miles per year and need a good reliable van.

Your thoughts please

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Overall I have heard good feedback on them.The 1.8 I think is without DPF so its good in that respect, though its a small power output for a van, so if your happy with the power, they can be a good buy.

As you can see by the lack of Transit section, where not overly familiar with it, but I am sure others will provide their feedback!

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I have had some experience with Connects as i had one as a dog wagon about 4 years back.

Lovely little runner, economical, spacious and solid as a rock.

You have the nifty ability to fold the passenger seat flat to allow long loads and also it has a tray built into the back of the seat with cup holders and such (ideal for placing paperwork on etc)

Only a couple of little niggles i had with the one i drove, it had solid rear doors so suffered a bit or reversing damage (reversing sensors a good idea?), and the bumper corner pieces have a habit of shedding themselves.

Other than that, i reckon they're cracking little vans for couriers and small building companies/plumbers/travelling workmen.

Get the back fitted out with wood panels and storage racks and it becomes a right little workhorse.


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  • 9 months later...
  • 4 months later...

I've been having some intermittent electrical faults with my 2006 Transit Connect T220 diesel:

wipers & heated mirrors come on when I turn on the ignition

door-operated interior light sometimes works, sometimes not

new battery flat within a week of not being used, while on holiday.

Anyone experienced similar, and if so, found a solution?

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  • 4 years later...

Hi everyone.

Ive heard really good things about these transit connects so bought one.  Absolutely mint full service history, so thought I was on a winner!  After 1 week of owning it fuel pump went down ££££ fixed smile on face again sweet engine. Week later egr valve went down, so tried cheap option first just the bolt on unit £34 winner.  1 week later egr valve again!! Got told I did wrong should of replaced whole unit which has manifold on it so I did ££££ 1 week later egr valve again!!! So this time got it blanked off and deleted as we know there’s nothing wrong with it!!!  Hurray all done.  Wrong!! Can you guess??  Yes 1 week later warning engine malfunction esp.  this van hates me.  Can anyone help before I spend anymore money or bend it.  It’s 09 and I kid you not it’s absolutely mint, 1 owner 90k on clock.  Many thanks

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10 hours ago, Russ hates wasps said:

 Wrong!! Can you guess??  Yes 1 week later warning engine malfunction esp.  this van hates me.

I don't think you should blame the van, more likely it is the garages at fault. High overheads mean work is done quickly to a bare minimum standard. All too often diagnostic codes are taken at face value, and expensive parts replaced, when it was actually some other, related bit, but the software had to make a guess, and got it wrong. Old fashioned manual diagnosis and testing is becoming a thing of the past. But is remains vital to be able to verify what, if anything, these error codes mean.

I am guessing it is the 1.8TCDI, from the EGR being built into the manifold with a bolt on actuator. In my experience most EGR problems on that engine are in the bolt-on part, and a decent garage should be able to check the operation of the part left in the manifold just by feeling for sticking or jamming. Without knowing the actual DTC codes, there is no way to know why the EGR failed after replacing the manifold. Some codes relate directly to the EGR hardware with its built in sensor, but others relate to its overall operation which depends on the MAF, MAP and other sensors, plus any air leaks in the system. So it may not have been the EGR at all.

Fuel pumps fail quite rarely on these engines, unless a filter change is mucked up, literally by getting dirt in the fuel lines.

ESP is not really an ECU function, it is primarily handled in the ABS unit. But it needs quite a lot of communication between electronic modules. So bad joints in the CAN bus and other circuits can often cause the ESP light to come on. Reading codes should reveal this, there would be a lot of U codes, all relating to bad data over the CAN buses.

Having a good diagnostic system like Forscan to hand is essential in cases like this, in fact with all these electronic cars once they get to a certain age. You can read the codes as they happen, record and clear them, see what returns, look out for related symptoms, and, maybe with a bit of help from others, arrive at a diagnosis that has a lot more chance of being right then the typical garage method of changing the bit they first think of, or maybe make the most profit out of, at the risk of me being called a cynic!


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On 3/30/2019 at 9:09 PM, Russ hates wasps said:

another week out of it!

Just time to get a decent diagnostic system to hand! Having a bit of info about what all those wretched error lights mean does, I find, reduce the stress a lot, and might even save money!

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  • 1 year later...

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