theredfox Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 got vgate vs450 is this compatable for 05 c-max paul had airbag warning light on dash today dont know triggered it so plugged in the vs450 and hey presto could not read the module so will ned to get ford one to sort out the airbag light paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Have a look at my initial thread, if you get yourself FORSCAN and also a modified ELM cable you can diagnose the likes of airbags. I had my mondeo plugged in this week, I was tracking down a wiring issue on the airbags, tracked it down to the driver side airbag curtain reporting 8 ohms of resistance whilst the rest of the system was 2 - 3 ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jace1969 Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 Hi there,i have one of those cheap code readers and works fine on a lot of cars £10 Is there a cheap one the same that does the airbag light. I also have the opcom what i used on my old vauxhall and only cost £20 a few years ago (pc software and tool ) And i have the elm 237 and some software but never tried it on a ford. Is there a ford one like the opcom as it was amazing program,it did everything,codes/airbag/service light/key coding..etc. Thanks..........just read your post above.......forscan the best and where from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Just Google forscan download and it will be the top of the list. You will need a 500000 kbps modified elm cable though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dabbers Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Can anyone help please? My OBD port isnt getting any power to it, where abouts would the fuse be?!! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Not sure it is fused, have you tried a different device and how have you confirmed the power have get to g there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall88 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I appear to have joined the ABS module failure club, the only saving grace is on a 2005 ford fusion Thank god for obd scanners which picked the fault up immediately cleared all the dash lights and then went for a drive and lo and behold as expected they came back on 1. speedo stopped working 2.handbrake light on 3. ABS light on 4 Engine management light came on but went off and has nor reappeared obd2 fault was stated as ; cannot communicate with ABS Module removed module and cleaned plug no difference BOUGHT A SECOND HAND UNIT FROM E BAY FOR £70 10 MINS TO FIT CLEARED ALARMS AND LIGHTS SORTED !!!!!!!! ANYONE CAN DO THIS WHY PAY FORD / GARAGE £500 T0 £1000 Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Good result Jon, its awesome for a simple affordable code scanner to help you determine the fault! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poults Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I need some help......please! I have an '08 Focus 1.6 auto and the electrics seem to have gone a little mental. So the electric windows don't work, the windscreen jets aren't working, the rear windscreen wiper doesn't work, it speradically thinks the bonet is open and the temperature gauge isn't giving a reading. All of these started on the same day, the first thing I noticed was the Bonet open warning on the dash with the beeping every so often. Can anyone give me a clue what on earth has happened? Poults Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoney871 Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 Check that all the cable plugs are fully seated in the footwell fusebox. They are very easy to kick out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markmc85 Posted June 18, 2015 Share Posted June 18, 2015 Hi guys i have a clicking noise from when I turn the car off I have a 1.8tdci Mondeo 10 plate just done no2 injector leak off pipe seal clip came out when driving pulled over replace metal clip been ok since now am getting a clicking noise from this if the pic didn't up load it's on the drivers side under bonnet big silver this behind the plastic engine be cover of that makes sense any1 help on what it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Hi Mark, I would reccomend starting your own thread in the mondeo section, and also detailing along with pictures, what the clicking is like (its frequency, duration, speed etc) and it may help us to advise you further! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markmc85 Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Not sure how too am new to this pal it's only when I turn the car off mate it does it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 If you go the Mondeo section of the website, click create new post (towards the top right of the list of posts) then you can put all the details within. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshfocus Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Fuel computer data error fuel light stays on 2010 focus 1.8 tdci, one helpful member said it could eather be the fuel sender unit and that would cost quite a bit in labour or the instrument cluster or something not sure how to go about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrina Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Apologies if I am not posting a new topic in the correct way, but I am new to the forum I bought a 2009 Ford Focus Titanium 3 weeks ago, only done 47,000 miles. Anyway first couple of weeks everything was fine. Then last week was at the traffic lights, I went to move and the car died. Managed to get a jump as I assumed the battery was knackered. All fine again, next day drove to station to go work. Got back to the car around 7pm, went to start it. It started for 2 secs and then died. Got my mate to give me a jump, but that didnt work. Had to wait for the recovery guy to come a couple hours later. Low and behold it started. So I though right Ill park it at mechanics so I could drive/push it in first thing. Just as I was about to drive off it died. So recovery guy dropped me to where I needed to go Have now taken to the mechanics and they did a diagnostics. 2 codes have come up P0628 Fuel Pump Control B1601 Passive anti theft I have been advised to get my key reprogrammed as the mechanic thinks the chip is loose. Hence why the car starts, but as the chip comes lose the engine shuts off. He said that something came up saying the System received the incorrect key So tomorrow I am getting another key programmed to see if this rectifies the issue. Im just concerned that if this doesnt work. Not feeling comfortable driving the car around as I also have a 2 year old daughter Just want to know if anybody else has had or heard of this issue and what you did or can advise what to do Please help, at the moment Im on public transport, trying to commute into work on a bus isnt fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Fuel computer data error fuel light stays on 2010 focus 1.8 tdci, one helpful member said it could eather be the fuel sender unit and that would cost quite a bit in labour or the instrument cluster or something not sure how to go about it Have you got any error codes? I would say if you havent checked you should do, as there are a number of things it could be, even down to a simple blocked fuel filter... Apologies if I am not posting a new topic in the correct way, but I am new to the forum I bought a 2009 Ford Focus Titanium 3 weeks ago, only done 47,000 miles. Anyway first couple of weeks everything was fine. Then last week was at the traffic lights, I went to move and the car died. Managed to get a jump as I assumed the battery was knackered. All fine again, next day drove to station to go work. Got back to the car around 7pm, went to start it. It started for 2 secs and then died. Got my mate to give me a jump, but that didnt work. Had to wait for the recovery guy to come a couple hours later. Low and behold it started. So I though right Ill park it at mechanics so I could drive/push it in first thing. Just as I was about to drive off it died. So recovery guy dropped me to where I needed to go Have now taken to the mechanics and they did a diagnostics. 2 codes have come up P0628 Fuel Pump Control B1601 Passive anti theft I have been advised to get my key reprogrammed as the mechanic thinks the chip is loose. Hence why the car starts, but as the chip comes lose the engine shuts off. He said that something came up saying the System received the incorrect key So tomorrow I am getting another key programmed to see if this rectifies the issue. Im just concerned that if this doesnt work. Not feeling comfortable driving the car around as I also have a 2 year old daughter Just want to know if anybody else has had or heard of this issue and what you did or can advise what to do Please help, at the moment Im on public transport, trying to commute into work on a bus isnt fun There are common reasons why the car can keep cutting out. You need to ensure that your earth connection from the battery is secure and wiggle free. Also the battery posts need to be firmly in place, and very secure, otherwise if they are loose in the slightest this can cause the flicker connection and a random cutout and dead. I had this issue when my connections where loose, but it worked as soon as I put a jumper cable on it, because it secured the connection... As for the errors, you may sadly be getting work down for nothing. It is always best to clear the error codes and allow the issue to reproduce, as more often than not error codes lay dormant and can be read as the current issue. The key needs reprogramming because a chip is loose, sounds like lunacy to me! I have a key I have had made, where it uses a loose glass transponder inside the key casing, it moves around more than anything, yet the car always starts first time... The fuel pump is a possibility, though it could be the wiring to it. When the car dies, do you lose everything (every light / screen etc) does it all go black? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabrina Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Hi, yes I am getting error codes. They are P0628 which is fuel pump and B1601 which is passive ant theft. When mechanic did diagnostics it said the key couldn't be read. Hence why he advised me to get key reprogrammed. I need to get a spare key anyway as I've only got the one. I've not had any work done apart from having a new steering arm fitted, and some wheel alignment When car cuts out everything else stays on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 Ok so it's less likely to be battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Hi, yes I am getting error codes. They are P0628 which is fuel pump and B1601 which is passive ant theft. When mechanic did diagnostics it said the key couldn't be read. Hence why he advised me to get key reprogrammed. I need to get a spare key anyway as I've only got the one. I've not had any work done apart from having a new steering arm fitted, and some wheel alignment When car cuts out everything else stays on i seen same symptoms as yours on 2008 focus, ended up being faulty instrument cluster, not saying thats whats wrong with yours , but worth telling your mechanic its something else to check, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted July 2, 2015 Author Share Posted July 2, 2015 That certainly is an alternative issue, though it's all staying Alive and not dropping out so I don't think it's that right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshfocus Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Hello mate the Dtc code is #009202 fuel sender unit open circuit. Not sure if fuel sender unit needs replacing or just something minor. Have you got any error codes? I would say if you havent checked you should do, as there are a number of things it could be, even down to a simple blocked fuel filter... There are common reasons why the car can keep cutting out. You need to ensure that your earth connection from the battery is secure and wiggle free. Also the battery posts need to be firmly in place, and very secure, otherwise if they are loose in the slightest this can cause the flicker connection and a random cutout and dead. I had this issue when my connections where loose, but it worked as soon as I put a jumper cable on it, because it secured the connection... As for the errors, you may sadly be getting work down for nothing. It is always best to clear the error codes and allow the issue to reproduce, as more often than not error codes lay dormant and can be read as the current issue. The key needs reprogramming because a chip is loose, sounds like lunacy to me! I have a key I have had made, where it uses a loose glass transponder inside the key casing, it moves around more than anything, yet the car always starts first time... The fuel pump is a possibility, though it could be the wiring to it. When the car dies, do you lose everything (every light / screen etc) does it all go black? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickyanderson Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 some cracking Noise when accelerating.! can anyone fix this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeebowhite Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Cracking noise isn't much to go on lol are we talking engine bay or wheels Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1.6 tdci zetec s Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Looked at the link you posted. It's a Chinese copy of the obdll reader. So probably not programmed correctly. I'd look into buying from a reputable firm, with good feedback before buying a quality reader. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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